Lotus Europa Community

I forgot to mention another option for upgrading the rear stub axles that I find very intriguing: VW/Porsche parts. The stub axles are the same diameter and are hardened (certainly much stronger than the Hillman Imp parts) and half shafts are available in several lengths. Here’s a write up on it: https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=4782.msg51880#msg51880

Now, this requires a twin link rear setup. Richard Mann describes a fairly simple and inexpensive way to make your own here: https://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1724.msg15757#msg15757 Of course Lotus Supplies sells their own twin link kit (for some reason they seem to only list it for S1s and S2s) here: https://www.lotus-supplies.com/parts/suspension/rear-corners/twin-link-rear-suspension-system-kit-s1-s2/

If you are intent on keeping the stock rear suspension setup, you’re kind of on your own but I would think a drive shaft shop would be able to make up something for you.

The wooden dashboard is held in place with 4 screws at the top 2 of which do into captive nuts, and the outer 2 are nuts and screws.

At the bottom, there are brackets at either end bolted to the dashboard, and bolted to the bodywork only by the micro switches which operate the internal light. Also 2 x nuts and bolts central below the window switches hold the bottom of the dash to 2 x L brackets bolted to the chassis which is a good place to attach earth wires.

But you only need to undo the U clamp to lower the whole column. 2 x 7/16" headed nuts. If they are Nyloc nuts, replace them with ordinary nuts and lock washers or you will be ages tightening them.

Having a bit of a bad run getting stuff to let go. I've had to order more decent dremel discs as the thin ones aren't up to the job so moved onto the bits left at the front. Everything is rusted up - getting to the stage where (after a quick check of the suppliers price lists - I am from Yorkshire) I'm having to resort to more cutting. The pipe from the brake reservoir to the cylinder was rusty at both ends and the middle, and the nut at the master cylinder would not yield, so cut the pipe off at the bottom so I can get a ring spanner or socket on it later. Would have needed replacing anyway, and less than a tenner. Hoorah!

Onto the Handbrake pivot bolt. The bolt head does turn a little, but is fused to the pivot, so will only move a little.    PlusGas sprayed liberally and hit bolt and pivot bar with hammer to try and shock them free of each other without success so far. Keep reminding myself that stuff is 50 years old, and has sat for 20, so is to be expected. Still frustrating.

Thanks for those replies, especially the brake pad bit. I have Pagids on my Westfield but they are outrageously expensive, but having said that they have been on for years and still show no signs of wear. Green stuff or Mintex looks likely to give me the response I'm hoping for. Of course I may be expecting too much after driving a Porsche 991 Turbo S cab with 15" ceramics!
On my question of the steering lock removal, I agree with the point about the potential stealability of our cars and was thinking along the lines of just removing the locking lug (if it is possible, unless a new complete unit is not too expensive), but to get it off I'm pretty sure I need to remove - or at least undo the dash to get at the bolts holding the lock to the column to give me access to be able to drill the snap bolts out., or is it possible with a lot of arm dexterity?
Do you TCS guys all have a dash with several screws on the front holding the dash in, or are they a variation on a theme?