Another S2 adventure, 742R, Carnival red and "Running".

[TurboFource]

1270 socket clears output shafts …

[Richard48Y]

Yep, that is what I exchanged for.

[Richard48Y]

New transmission mount installed.
Cheated and bought new nuts and bolts.
Simplest task ever so far.

[Richard48Y]

Output shaft seals and O rings replaced, re-shimmed.
I had been a bit concerned with this after reading several threads where folk were having issues.
But beyond awkward access and the nuts taking a bit of force to break loose it was not bad.
I did use a little Hylomar on the threads, so maybe next time will be easier.

[Richard48Y]

Got an "Otter switch" that fits the aluminum radiator properly but the matching plug seems to be impossible.
No biggy, I will solder on a couple of wires to make a pigtail to connect to the originals.
Ohm meter does not show any connection from either terminal to ground.
Since it is just a switch I expect no polarity.
But I do note a significant difference in wire gauges at the original harness.
So, is there a polarity issue or did Lotus have some other reason for the light and heavy wires?

[dakazman]

 Drop it into a cup of hot water and you’ll see continuty the heavy wire should go to the bat on relay. Don’t submerge it !
  Afterwards, Just jumper the terminals to test the circuit.
 Dakazman

[jbcollier]

The water needs to be very hot, pretty much boiling with the later "Otter" rad fan switches.  Wiring tail is available from British car parts suppliers.  The same switch was used on late MBBs for one.

[Richard48Y]

Original switch cannot be used with the aluminum radiator.

I did get the trailing arms and SPAX shocks back under the car.
Still have to get the new roll-pins in and the lower links.
Then I will assemble the rear brakes.

[Richard48Y]

Hmm, Rear trailing arms and shocks are in place.
Offered up a stock lower link and see that it does NOT naturally align between the trans mount and upright.
Checked the book, no spacer at the upright is shown. So the bushes would be under a lot of twist.
In order to use an adjustable lower link a spacer is required to clear the shock.
My car had short spacers, looks like these will have to be a little longer.
My preference would be no spacers.
But that puts the arm of the lower link at more of an angle and will not clear the SPAX shock.
I will try to get a pic after assembly.

[Bryan Boyle]

Hmm, Rear trailing arms and shocks are in place.
Offered up a stock lower link and see that it does NOT naturally align between the trans mount and upright.
Checked the book, no spacer at the upright is shown. So the bushes would be under a lot of twist.
In order to use an adjustable lower link a spacer is required to clear the shock.
My car had short spacers, looks like these will have to be a little longer.
My preference would be no spacers.
But that puts the arm of the lower link at more of an angle and will not clear the SPAX shock.
I will try to get a pic after assembly.

What you want are 'cone washers'.  They are used to center ball joints so the ball doesn't bind and can rotate to the limit of the design.  See below.  What I did on 693R.  It's what they're made for and certainly proper use for this case.