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Garage / Re: What are we missing, what should I make on a VMC?
« Last post by Richard48Y on Today at 10:45:02 PM »
But Banks/Lotus Supplies are already supplying ashtrays.
I like the idea of aluminum vents to make them less of a throw away item.
Trying to find a printable wax to use with my sand casting outfit too.
With tools at hand and cars to restore I should never run out of "Things to do".
At least not when the power is on, just had another outage most of the day due to a broken power line.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by EuropaTC on Today at 10:28:30 PM »
The otter switch has been redundant on my car since, well, probably before I got it in the 80s. The original owner of my car had fitted a dash switch and when I used the car daily in traffic I'd just flick it on if I got caught in a jam, otherwise it wasn't needed.  All that's happened in my ownership is to rewire and fit a relay in the circuit, plus of course changing the fan for a more modern unit. When I tidied up the radiator 10+yrs ago the old switch was still there but all it's doing is keeping the coolant in.

If you really do want automatic control and can't fit the OEM switch then aftermarket fans such as the Kenlow I have on the Elan came with a bulb sensor & leads which you could slide into the top hose. There is a small rubber moulding, hard to describe but mine is a sort of half circle with indentations for the wire. This sits on the alloy thermosat housing outlet and the original hose slides over the combination and seals very well. You can set the temperature you want it to come on and it also has an override switch with a light to tell you when it's on. The original fan has long since been replaced by a slimmer, modern unit but the controller is still in there.

Brian
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Off Topic Subjects / Re: Getting derailed
« Last post by BDA on Today at 06:05:13 PM »
Looks really nice, D’man!
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Off Topic Subjects / Re: Getting derailed
« Last post by dakazman on Today at 05:44:29 PM »
  Got to clean up the lines in the graphics. I did it freehand and will nib sand till I get it perfect, then reclear the entire panel. I love making people bring out the magnifying glasses 😂
  I doubt this will be attached to my car but I’ll try my best to keep the JPS theme alive.
Dakazman

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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by BDA on Today at 04:33:23 PM »
I used a fan controller like this one (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN4XZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It includes a relay and lets you dial in the temperature when the fan starts. It doesn't require an otter or other switch because it has a temperature probe that goes between the fins of the radiator.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by Cheguava on Today at 04:17:48 PM »
Been derailed by some serious dentistry, having been given strict instructions about limiting physical effort I've left the doors until I've healed a bit. Instead of which, I managed to get the dash out, and can look at it in all its (ahem) glory. Crash pad looks ok, but might get a covering of vinyl to freshen it up. Fascia panel has me in two minds, I'm not a fan of the OE lacquered floorboard look, and although the walnut veneer looks ok, i might try stripping the panel back and painting it matt / satin black.

So, onto stupid question time. My radiator was crumbling to bits as I removed it, but as luck would have it there was a Europa rad on eBay which looked decent, even had a Spal fan fitted (mine looked like it had been submerged with the Titanic). It arrived today, and is in evidently good nick, but doesn't have a hole for the Otter switch - it has an indented circle where it would be fitted but no hole. So I was wondering if everyone on here had an otter switch, or is there an alternative to switch on your fan when the radiator gets... otter?  And yes, I am getting ahead of myself buying parts at the strip down stage, but it was retail therapy.

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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 03:47:13 PM »
Hmmm… I would tend to believe Dave but you might consider asking Ken Grey at DBE  or Ray at r.d. for their opinion or ask a machinist what he thinks. I also wonder about welding a bush in the upright. You wouldn’t have the stress of pressing the bush in but I’m pretty sure the upright is heat treated so that might be a problem. Anyway, it seems worth a try. After all it sounds like you’re going to need another upright anyway so you don’t have much to lose.
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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by cazman on Today at 02:59:29 PM »
Yea, the axles seemed fine. The play is definitely from the hole. I do not know why I never checked before. Like you said it is a tight fit (even now), until everything is apart and you put only the bolt back in without the shock and link. Then the bolt wobbles. Its worn like an inverted cigar. The center is tight, but the ends are enlarged.
I was thinking of an aluminum bushing too. I can make my own and get a perfect fit. The other reason I asked is that I read (I think in Dave Bean's catalog that you cannot bush the bearing housing for a bearing - it has been tried and cracks.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 02:14:26 PM »
Thanks Dave - living in the antipodes, I never really came across a "Bonney wrench".
My old Scottish uncle used to tell me about a 'bonny wench' engendering similar constrictions.... so perhaps that's where the confusion set in.  ;)
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Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 02:10:19 PM »
I say it's serious in that it is unusual (I'm unaware of anyone else complaining about that hole being worn) and could denote a problem such as being hit or improper assembly/disassembly. That 1/2" bolt shouldn't rotate or otherwise move once installed. I've had mine in and out several times and they still require a hammer and punch to get them out of upright.

Of course, that's not to say that it can't be worn (or that the next time I have to take mine apart, it might won't be worn!) and if yours is, I would certainly have a bush pressed in. I think I would have an aluminum bush pressed in. Given that the bolt should be tight in the hole (bush) I might worry that the steel bolt might "grab" a steel bush and when pounding the bolt in or out, it might tend to drive the steel bush with it. On the other hand I might be worrying about noting and steel would be fine. I would consult the person installing the bush.

I would also always use anti-seize when installing the bolt and I would always back it up when tightening or loosening the nut on it.

In any case, checking the condition of the hole should be easy enough and if you've done everything else, it would be a good next check.

Have you checked the condition of your stub-axles? I found one of mine was worn from the bearing (see attached picture). I would expect that you would notice something like that when you changed the bearings but it caught me by surprise.
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