Restoration of 2358R

[BDA]

It's nice to have a helper. It's even nicer to have two helpers for when one of them is unavailable!

[tedtaylor]

Glen,  assuming you'll be replacing the stuck puck with stainless, I use an air hammer/chisel on mine and that seems to get them budged and moving enough to get out.   
Your progress on the car is exciting me and tempting me to go out into the cold garage and get those brakes done on my JPS.

[Certified Lotus]

Im impressed certified, good selection of photographs

Thanks EuropatcSpecial. I figured that if I'm going to do a full frame off rebuild might as well give everyone as much info as possible.

Ted, yes I did replace the caliper pistons with Stainless (detailed rebuild photos to follow)

BDA, the "helpers" need to be in the right mood to be of any value. Never the less, I am always grateful to have my son's in the shop helping.

[Certified Lotus]

While I am dealing with the problem of the right front suspension lower wishbone twisting while I turn the vertical link I decided to finish the rebuild of the right caliper now that the silver paint has cured (to take my mind off the problem I can't seem to solve and have posted for help under another subject of: lower wishbones).

For those that have never rebuild a girling brake caliper, its really quite easy as long as you have the rebuild kits and know to "blow out" the pistons with compressed air or grease before splitting the casing.  It used to be said NEVER split the casing.....but I think that is because the round flat o-ring was difficult to get and you couldn't reuse the old one. If your going to completely rebuild these you have to split the casing to properly clean the area the piston sits in. And painting the entire casing split is so much easier. Rule number one: clean is essential. Rule number two: use lots of special red brake grease to coat everything internal.

Here are two photos of the trunnion greased up to install on the vertical link, the vertical link installed on the right side and a series of photos of the caliper rebuild:

[jbcollier]

A-arm twist is due to bent upright.

If you split the calipers you must fit a new seal between the two halves.  No, not any old o-ring will do.

[Certified Lotus]

A-arm twist is due to bent upright.

If you split the calipers you must fit a new seal between the two halves.  No, not any old o-ring will do.

JB I’m fairly certain you are correct on the bent upright (although I have tried two used ones and both do the same. Odd that both are bent). Will know in a couple of days when I replacement shows up.

Yes on the new seal, this is a must!

[Certified Lotus]

Received my new right side vertical link (upright) from RD Enterprises, took off the one installed on the right front suspension, removed the axle and compared the two uprights side by side. YUP, JB was right, bent upright.  Then I took the other used right upright I had and put them next to each other. Amazing, one upright is bent at the threaded end and the other upright is bent at the top end. Two bent right side uprights.......and they were from separate cars. 

Cleaned the new upright with lacquer thinner, masked off the areas that don't get painted and painted it silver. Once the paint has cured I will install and finish up the right side suspension.

 

[Certified Lotus]

With the paint cured on the right upright, I reassembled the right side suspension and disc brakes. Greased everything that required it and put never seize on all threaded bolts.

[Certified Lotus]

Now I'm ready to rebuild the steering rack.  Everything I have taken apart that had grease in it was a mess due to the car being stored so long.  So every part on the car needs to be disassembled, cleaned in the parts cleaner, greased with modern lubricants and reassembled. Care needs to be taken regarding the number of washer shims for each side of the rack, don't confuse the L and R sides and keep track of them. Install new ball joints (they are cheap).  I am going to paint the rack the same color as the brake calipers.

[BDA]

You should be ok using the same shims on your tie rod adjustment but you should check the tension or resistance on moving the tie rod before you lock everything down. IIRC, the manual specifies 7 lbs. force needed to move the tie rod. Light resistance seems like a good idea, but it is not. I know from experience. Use a spring scale of some sort.

[Certified Lotus]

BDA, my manual says 2 Ibs? I used a fish scale to measure force the last time I rebuilt a rack.

[jbcollier]

Use semi-fluid grease or gear oil to lube the rack, not chassis grease.

[Certified Lotus]

Use semi-fluid grease or gear oil to lube the rack, not chassis grease.

JB, this is the grease I use for chassis and steering rack assembly. Your suggesting it is too thick?

[jbcollier]

Yes.  You can just dilute it with gear oil and it will be ok.  Air has to flow from side to side and it won’t if it is packed with lots of thick grease.

[Certified Lotus]

Thanks JB, another lesson learned from you