Restoration of 2358R

[EuropaTC]

(Owning an early Elan I'm used to a very tight and direct shift, so I'm very spoiled).

You're gonna be disappointed.....   

However the 4 speed box isn't that bad when everything is tight.  If you're not bothered about originality then the modern linkages could no doubt be used, my concern would be the amount of work involved. It might just be a cut'n'weld, I just don't know.

What I do know is that the UJs in the central joint and rear joint are simple, straightforward things as used on many steering linkages.  Many years ago I bought a few from autojumbles over here, found matching units then stripped and replaced the working bits of both mine. I can't recall it being much different from doing any UJ although it's smaller of course.

The snag I found with the 352 is the weak reverse spring arrangement, it's too easy to go from 4th right across the grid & miss 2nd.  That will apply if you have the original or cable shift.  There are many solutions, John shows one on his S1. Mine was slightly different in that I have a spring loaded lever underneath the gaiter which provides additional resistance. In fact, it's adjustable depending on what spring I've used.

Brian

[Certified Lotus]

Thanks for all the input on shifter tubes and u-joints. Plus the consideration of building a cable shift system.

I am well aware that the shifting of a Europa is not exactly a precise action. It was amazing to me how sloppy it was to even find a gear. At first I thought there must be something disconnected, but after a careful review of all the parts on the shifter tubes and reading a number of posts it was apparent that this is the way it functions. I am astounded that a Lotus was designed like this, but it was still a small car company and solutions came at the cost of using other companies parts and then figuring out how to adapt them to the Lotus car.

I had read the various posts on the yahoo group months ago about the cable shifter design. It really looked very well done and someone had even put together a group buy. The detailed list of parts is a big plus, but there is also custom fabrication to be done and that means more time to source parts, build parts and fettle with everything.

I am a bit conflicted about which direction to go in. Rebuild the original and make it as tight an operation as possible or source and build a cable shifting system (which I understand as I had made a number of improvements to my track Exige cable shifting system).

As I have the chassis removed this is the time to do any serious work.  I am just a bit concerned about taking on another major project as I already have a major project going on with my rebuild.

Will reread all the posts on both scenarios over the weekend and come to a decision. In the mean time any of you are welcome to sway my thinking 

In the meantime, the media Blaster contacted me and had everything done. I called the powder coater and scheduled delivery of the chassis and associated parts on Saturday. Even more exciting was the race engine shop (Quicksilver) contacted me and had a slot to get my weber TC engine in. Progress!

[Roger]

I got my original TC linkage to work OK. Eliminating lost motion everywhere you can, and fixing the reverse gear selection, are most helpful.
However, even with that done the Renault box is slow, particularly in comparison to the Ford.

[Roger]

I meant to mention that I fixed the accidental reverse gear selection using a kit from Peter Boedker, which I thoroughly commend. You can find details in this forum.
I had been considering a similar solution, but since Peter had done the work already, I spent no further personal energy on it.

[Certified Lotus]

Media blasting completed and delivered to the powder coater. Weekend of reading ahead regarding shift tubes and shift cables 

[BDA]

Looks pretty clean to me! What color are you powder coating it in?

[Certified Lotus]

30% black. Not too glossy.

[andy harwood]

Was your frame rusted on the top of the "T", where the pad sits? Was the only spot on my frame rusted, and it was pretty severe.

[Certified Lotus]

I was fortunate, only surface rust on the chassis.

[Certified Lotus]

JB, BDA & Andy, seems the cable shift modification has been done for NG3 gearboxes but not 352?  I can seem to find any details on a 352 conversion. Is there something I am missing?

[Certified Lotus]

Spent a couple of hours today reading up on the shift linkage for a 352 transaxle and then looking at the parts I have that need rebuilding. I media blasted the linkage pieces I have just to see what was salvageable. Every rose joint and u-joint needs to be replaced.  Brian you comment on everything tight rang home with me.

I'm still undecided what to do. Seems the cable shift systems are for the NG3 transaxle and although well engineered (my complements to dlindemann) don't apply to the 352.  The comment Roger made on the 352 that made me think hard is that it isn't a robust transaxle and improving the shifting speed doesn't improve the performance, just the more accurate location of the gear.  Am I understanding this correctly?

If there is a complete cable shift kit for the 352 transaxle please let me know. Otherwise I am leaning towards the complete rebuild of my OEM shift tubes with the parts I can find and refurbish what I need to.....unless I can find a cable system that someone has engineered for the 352.

By the way, I found another HUGE stash of nuts behind the insulating material on the firewall.  I think I've finally found everything the mice have left behind 

 

[jbcollier]

There is no "bolt-in" cable shifter system available for any Europa set-up.  There will be significant custom work regardless of which transaxle you choose.  Contrary to what you have heard, all the transaxles are more than up to the job for stock to reasonably modded engines..  In fact, if you decide to fit one of the five speed options, you'll quickly discover that you still end up with the engine running at high revs at 70 to 80 mph.  A Europa is a wonderful car for blasting along a twisty country road.  Interstate mile muncher?  I don't think so.

I think it is good idea to overhaul what you have.  Fit bearings and spherical joints instead of bushings where ever you can.  Also give some thought to fitting a reverse lock out as that is the best single mod I made to the shift linkage as I can now shift as fast as I want and still be confident of getting the intended gear.

[BDA]

Again, I can't disagree with John here. I have an NG3 and at 3000 rpm I'm going about 55 mph. Highway speeds would be about another 1000 rpm. Not buzzy like an old Honda Civic, but certainly not loping. I've heard some say that around town, a 4 speed is as good a a 5 speed. I did own a 4 speed (my first Europa) and I traded it in for a 5 speed, but that was over forty years ago and I can't remember - nor was I bright enough to recognize - if either had an advantage around town. The 5 speed was certainly better on the highway.


As for the cable shifters, I think one can be adapted to the 352, but I can understand not wanting to break new ground. It could be a lot of work.


I do like my NG3. It is certainly not a detriment around town and is better on the road. If you're happy with 4 gears, there's no reason to get one, but if you want 5, I think it's the best option.


I guess a lot depends on what sort of engine and what sort of driving you're planning on. I suspect you could build a TC that's too strong for a 352 - I'd defer to John here - and if you want to do a lot of highway driving, I think you're going to want a 5 speed. And if that's in your future, you can think about cable shifters or Richard sells pretty decent shift linkage with his NG3s.

[BDA]

Will this windbag ever shut up?


I finally found what an owner several years ago did for his shift linkage pivot. I thought it might be of interest to you: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/ahines/transaxle.html

[EuropaTC]

(part quote)
If there is a complete cable shift kit for the 352 transaxle please let me know. Otherwise I am leaning towards the complete rebuild of my OEM shift tubes with the parts I can find and refurbish what I need to.....unless I can find a cable system that someone has engineered for the 352.

I also have a 352 and have looked through many cable shift versions but yet have to find one for the 352. I bought an old Toyota lever assembly as that looks as if it will work but my enthusiasm for the project is low at the moment. When my OEM shifter becomes sloppy again then I think I might have a shot over one winter but as everyone has said, it will be trail blazing.

If you can get UJs to fit these days then a rebuild is your easiest option, not least because the manual tells you how to set it up. All joints need to be really tight although you do need some movement in the rubber bush mounting to the engine/clutch area and as has been commented, too tight here will transmit vibration to the gearstick.

If I had to list improvements in order, I would go;

1. Base of gear Lever to front selector shaft - sideways slop here is not good at all. Probably the most significant area.
2. End connection to gearbox UJ
3. Centre UJ and then finally the adjacent mounting point.

You can fit rubber steering rack bellows to the joints afterwards which keeps out dust/rain, I used the "universal" bellows and cut to size.  It isn't a perfect seal but better than being open to the elements.

The reverse detent is probably fine on the Renault but so easily overcome on the Lotus that I used to think the spring had fallen out or something. And you only need to miss 2nd once to lose confidence in those changes.  Probably the mass of linkage or leverage has some effect, I don't know but anything to prevent slipping too far across the gate is good.

Peter Boedker on here has manufactured a very neat system for lock out which is similar to some modern cars if you want an off the shelf solution.   I opted for a home made sprung lever which just adds as much resistance as you want by the spring selection. This still operates as standard without lifting the lever/gaiter, primarily because I wanted the car to look the same externally and it's completely hidden by the standard gaiter.  Plenty of options but I'd urge you to do something in this area whilst it's all apart.

Brian