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Garage / What's this??
« Last post by buroz on Today at 07:19:58 AM »This pipe is in my chassis. It's been there for over 10 years, but I don't remember what it was connected to. Any ideas? 
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2
Garage / Parts Cross Reference and Windscreen and other dumb questions
« Last post by buroz on Today at 06:17:58 AM »Spent another weekend working on my '71 S2 and more good progress was made. The front and rear suspension, steering and gear linkage is all good to go. Just needs a nut & bolt check, going over to check all torque settings are correct and I need a small piece welded for the rear gearbox mount. A few other small jobs and I'll be ready to put the body back down on the [new] chassis.. for the first time in 15 years
I'll be ordering new silicon hoses from Banks shortly, but I also need a new radiator. Does anyone know which ones fit? I unfortunately no longer have a radiator at all, so have nothing to compare it to and I'm assuming something like a VW polo rad' will fit?
Brake pipe to the rear, do you run the pipes through the chassis? I'm assuming you do, but someone might have a better idea?
Windscreen surrounds: Mine is very ugly. The silver plastic is massive and just doesn't look very nice. Is there a better option?
I'm still a way off of having to worry about such things, but I think it every time I look at it!
Oh and the final dumb question is the callipers/disks are from a Triumph Spitfire, right?
I'll be ordering new silicon hoses from Banks shortly, but I also need a new radiator. Does anyone know which ones fit? I unfortunately no longer have a radiator at all, so have nothing to compare it to and I'm assuming something like a VW polo rad' will fit?
Brake pipe to the rear, do you run the pipes through the chassis? I'm assuming you do, but someone might have a better idea?
Windscreen surrounds: Mine is very ugly. The silver plastic is massive and just doesn't look very nice. Is there a better option?
I'm still a way off of having to worry about such things, but I think it every time I look at it!
Oh and the final dumb question is the callipers/disks are from a Triumph Spitfire, right?
3
FS / WTB: Cars and Rollers / Re: FS 1972 Europa S2 with Twin Cam Big Valve
« Last post by LotusEuropa on Today at 02:58:28 AM »Is this car that was just on the FB Europa page?
It seems to be the one in the FB group few days ago. I think the price is still okay, but looking at the price you obviously had to pay just a few days ago I feel sorry for the previous owners. They should have gotten the premium you are asking now.
I am not here for bombing your ad, but I hope you haven't bought it in the end just to make quick money. If not, I do understand it can be really frustrating to buy something you really like just to find out you cannot fit inside properly. How tall are you?
Apart from this, good luck in selling this one!
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by berni29 on Today at 01:33:12 AM »Hi
Great to see you are making progress with the car. I am sure it will have plenty of secrets to give up, as will mine 3940R. We are both starting at the same time and pretty much from the same point.
All the best
Berni
Great to see you are making progress with the car. I am sure it will have plenty of secrets to give up, as will mine 3940R. We are both starting at the same time and pretty much from the same point.
All the best
Berni
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by GavinT on Sunday,April 28, 2024, 09:38:36 PM »Agree, Brian, I guess the potential danger of a high output alternator might be a situation where the battery is low or defective and the alt decides to pump 50/70 amps up that wire and through the dash for five or ten minutes straight.
Noted, JB. I've related my experience previously - my car came with a cheap & cheerful ammeter with an offensive red needle so I purchased a new Smiths 30/30 unit (couldn't find a Lucas one).
Much later, I noticed the new ammeter 'can' had deformed & partially caved in, although it was still working. The can was plastic and looked to have suffered a heat event. Wiring connections checked out OK so it might have been an internal connection issue. All this happened out of the blue.
Thanks for the info and links, Ron. Those mini-Denso style alternators seem to be the popular choice.
My original wiring harness was in pretty decent shape so perhaps a fat wire for the alternator and a voltmeter is the direction I should be headed.
Apologies for the hijack, Cheguava.
Noted, JB. I've related my experience previously - my car came with a cheap & cheerful ammeter with an offensive red needle so I purchased a new Smiths 30/30 unit (couldn't find a Lucas one).
Much later, I noticed the new ammeter 'can' had deformed & partially caved in, although it was still working. The can was plastic and looked to have suffered a heat event. Wiring connections checked out OK so it might have been an internal connection issue. All this happened out of the blue.
Thanks for the info and links, Ron. Those mini-Denso style alternators seem to be the popular choice.
My original wiring harness was in pretty decent shape so perhaps a fat wire for the alternator and a voltmeter is the direction I should be headed.
Apologies for the hijack, Cheguava.
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Garage / Re: Brake Master Question
« Last post by Bryan Boyle on Sunday,April 28, 2024, 06:45:53 PM »Bryan, would you be willing to lend me your S2 MC so I could do some reverse engineering on it? I have the TC MC drawn up in CAD and it would be great to do the same for the S2 MC to see if merging the two is feasible. I would gladly pay shipping both ways, obviously.
Tom
Wish I saw this yesterday; boxed up both and sent to Apple Saturday afternoon with instructions to call me about what I was thinking.
I don't know if they can sleeve down the TC from .875 to .70/.75 or if the S2 is even rebuildable (the piston is well and truly frozen in the barrel...). I had a spare S2 reservoir, but they are being reproduced again now, so didn't sent that along. Hoping they can resurrect the S2 since that seems to be the preferred for a booster-less TC. If not, and the TC MC is rebuildable, I've kind of gotten used to the hard pedal.
I do know the one in the car is on its way out...the bottom of the cross box is damp with brake fluid. Keeping an eye on it if (when?) I drive it. I am NOT looking forward to getting at that top nut; thinking if worst comes to worst, considering the MC is leaking anyway, removing the two screws holding the back of the reservoir on, draining the fluid, swinging the reservoir out of the was as much as I can, to give me some additional space to get at the top nut. I really think they put the master on THEN installed the steering rack. Don't want to try and or displace the rack; those bolts going through the aluminium steering rack mounts are probably corroded in place...and I'm not going to risk snapping the bolts. I have a spare set of rack mounts...but that job with the lack of clearance I can see turning into a real goat rodeo, if not incentive to pop the body off. Either that...or judicious application of a sawzall...
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FS / WTB: Cars and Rollers / Re: FS 1972 Europa S2 with Twin Cam Big Valve
« Last post by BDA on Sunday,April 28, 2024, 06:09:56 PM »Pretty car! Obviously, the engine needs a tune up - a Stromberg TC motor can start immediately - and a horn (if you can't be seen, you must be heard!).
I was going to goad you into trying to master a technique for getting in and out of it since I'm over 6'1" and 200 lbs and I fit very comfortably in my TCS and I can get in and out but without much grace, I admit. Then I remembered that the S2 is different than the TC so I'm just sad you have to sell your baby...
Those are pretty small issues. I hope you get a nice price.
I was going to goad you into trying to master a technique for getting in and out of it since I'm over 6'1" and 200 lbs and I fit very comfortably in my TCS and I can get in and out but without much grace, I admit. Then I remembered that the S2 is different than the TC so I'm just sad you have to sell your baby...
Those are pretty small issues. I hope you get a nice price.
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FS / WTB: Cars and Rollers / Re: FS 1972 Europa S2 with Twin Cam Big Valve
« Last post by mgccrx on Sunday,April 28, 2024, 04:41:21 PM »Sorry for the delay, but I'm not the best when it comes to computers, but I think I uploaded pictures and video correctly. Please see the links below.
https://imgur.com/a/354UT7O
https://youtube.com/shorts/C2BNUYeqtnw?si=sDbFgz5zwqkjoSEn
https://youtu.be/aT4CRgw310s?si=NJ-smATfObscHPK3
https://imgur.com/a/354UT7O
https://youtube.com/shorts/C2BNUYeqtnw?si=sDbFgz5zwqkjoSEn
https://youtu.be/aT4CRgw310s?si=NJ-smATfObscHPK3
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Garage / Re: The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.
« Last post by dakazman on Sunday,April 28, 2024, 03:46:10 PM »
Dman
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by RonPNW on Sunday,April 28, 2024, 10:33:31 AM »Having just finished re-wiring, I have few comments.
If you want a historically correct restoration ignore the rest of this post and just repair what you have.
I wanted to take advantage of modern technology in any way that did not change the character and general look of the car.
On my 70 S2 some wire was internally damaged and over 50% of the connections were corroded or failed. I removed the amp meter (not really necessary if you sort out the electrical system, I replaced it with an air / fuel meter and added an idiot light). Also remove the high current coil wire that runs through the tach (there are several posts, on this site, on how to do this. It dramatically reduces the electrical noise in the car allowing a radio to work properly).
I sized my wire by using the length and resistance of the wire (many tables on line) to find the wire gauge that results in .5V of voltage drop at max current. Voltage drop = Max Current X Total Resistance. Total resistance includes the wire to the battery, wire to ground, and any switches or connections on the way. A good clean flat connector or switch will be less than .05 ohms. Good solder connections are 0 ohms.
If you remove the ammeter the only high current connections / lines go to the radiator fan, cabin fan, headlights and starter. I added relays to front area so the cabin switches just turn on the relays.
I replaced the alternator with a mini-denso 70A ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/151571437369. ) .Smaller, lighter, more current, internally regulated. Some fab for the mounting is needed. Link to dimensions https://www.amazon.com/DENSO-EXCITING-ALTERNATOR-MOUNT-1-WIRE/dp/B00DMS4YIG.
But ..... I have heard you can simply buy a new wiring harness and move on.
Ron
If you want a historically correct restoration ignore the rest of this post and just repair what you have.
I wanted to take advantage of modern technology in any way that did not change the character and general look of the car.
On my 70 S2 some wire was internally damaged and over 50% of the connections were corroded or failed. I removed the amp meter (not really necessary if you sort out the electrical system, I replaced it with an air / fuel meter and added an idiot light). Also remove the high current coil wire that runs through the tach (there are several posts, on this site, on how to do this. It dramatically reduces the electrical noise in the car allowing a radio to work properly).
I sized my wire by using the length and resistance of the wire (many tables on line) to find the wire gauge that results in .5V of voltage drop at max current. Voltage drop = Max Current X Total Resistance. Total resistance includes the wire to the battery, wire to ground, and any switches or connections on the way. A good clean flat connector or switch will be less than .05 ohms. Good solder connections are 0 ohms.
If you remove the ammeter the only high current connections / lines go to the radiator fan, cabin fan, headlights and starter. I added relays to front area so the cabin switches just turn on the relays.
I replaced the alternator with a mini-denso 70A ( https://www.ebay.com/itm/151571437369. ) .Smaller, lighter, more current, internally regulated. Some fab for the mounting is needed. Link to dimensions https://www.amazon.com/DENSO-EXCITING-ALTERNATOR-MOUNT-1-WIRE/dp/B00DMS4YIG.
But ..... I have heard you can simply buy a new wiring harness and move on.
Ron