Author Topic: Shift Lever Play - Ron’s 70 S2 Crossflow  (Read 215 times)

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Offline RonPNW

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Shift Lever Play - Ron’s 70 S2 Crossflow
« on: Thursday,November 09, 2023, 10:45:00 PM »
While cleaning and painting the shift lever / shift bar I noticed that years ago I had tweaked the design to reduce play in the shift lever. There was excess movement in the lever to bar junction. Your situation may be different.
Two thin washers can be added on each side of the shift lever tang (inside the fork of the bar) to take up the play when the shoulder bolt is torqued. I ended up using .030” washers. Thin washers are available in various thicknesses from several online sources. Grease all the contact surfaces.
Test to be sure that the lever moves freely when the shoulder bolt is torqed. The stack of washers and shift lever tang should be set slightly less than the thickness of the tang plus the one side of the bar fork.
Second restoration of a 1970 S2, now with a Spyder chassis, 807-13 crossflow engine and some modern upgrades. This car is just for fun!

Offline Bryan Boyle

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Re: Shift Lever Play - Ron’s 70 S2 Crossflow
« Reply #1 on: Friday,November 10, 2023, 07:06:15 AM »
While cleaning and painting the shift lever / shift bar I noticed that years ago I had tweaked the design to reduce play in the shift lever. There was excess movement in the lever to bar junction. Your situation may be different.
Two thin washers can be added on each side of the shift lever tang (inside the fork of the bar) to take up the play when the shoulder bolt is torqued. I ended up using .030” washers. Thin washers are available in various thicknesses from several online sources. Grease all the contact surfaces.
Test to be sure that the lever moves freely when the shoulder bolt is torqed. The stack of washers and shift lever tang should be set slightly less than the thickness of the tang plus the one side of the bar fork.


There have been a lot of suggestions over the years; I'd add in that polishing the end of the shift lever (it looks, stock to have just been cut down and ground out...finely polishing the tang and fork inside surfaces can't hurt and may well lessen the wear.)

Also, I've gone to using sintered bronze bushings (see photo) and liberally coating them and the bolt with moly grease before assembling.  Have made this change in every Europa, and, while the original design is marginally acceptable, these seem to last longer (when I sold 693R, the shift feel was just as nice as when I first returned her to the street) than the nylon replacements most suppliers are providing. 

If I had the equipment and time, I'd probably machine a larger fork and lower bearing arrangement as here: https://www.gglotus.org/ggtech/europa-shifter/europashifter.htm , but, don't have a machine shop to work with, so, pretty much sticking with what I've got.

« Last Edit: Friday,November 10, 2023, 07:19:46 AM by Bryan Boyle »
Bryan Boyle
Fall River MA
Morrisville PA
Commercial Pilot/CFII/FAA Safety Team
Amateur Extra Class Operator & FCC Volunteer Examiner
Currently working on 3291R, ex 444R, 693R, 65/2163, 004R, 65/2678
http://www.lotuseuropa.us for mirror of lotus-europa.com manual site.

Offline dakazman

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Re: Shift Lever Play - Ron’s 70 S2 Crossflow
« Reply #2 on: Friday,November 10, 2023, 09:22:59 AM »
  I noticed the same thing with mine, the best remedy was buy RD’ s shifter plate kit. It took all the slop out.
  Another mod that you can do is in the manual, it may have been done to improve the throws.
Dakazman