How to remove bearings from rear upright

[gideon]

I've just been trying and failing to remove the bearings from the left rear wheel bearing housing.  I pushed the stub axle out with a hydraulic press (it's a new toy), and tried following the approach in Serge's video.  I heated the alloy casting to about 120 Celsius and then tried tapping the inner bearing out from the opposite side using a large screwdriver and rubber mallet, tapping on the inner race of the inner bearing.  No luck.  I also tried prising the inner seal off with the same large screwdriver and also no luck. 

I know the inner bearing is supposed to be a light fit in the housing, so I should try to remove that one first.  The spacer moves just enough to expose one side of the inner race of the inner bearing.  Before I damage something with an ill considered attempt at applying more force, what is the best way to get this done?

[BDA]

As I remember (and it was an age ago!) I heated my uprights with hot water and the bearings pretty much came out without complaint. You might try some penetrating oil with some heat.

[jbcollier]

You are not saving the seal so jam in a large, flat-tipped screwdriver under the seal lip and then twist the screwdriver.  It'll come.

Forget the rubber mallet and screwdriver.  Use a proper punch and hammer  Hammers are hard. Punches are (relatively) soft. They are made for each other.  Screwdrivers and bearings are hard.  Hard against hard may cause one or the other to fracture and send metal chips flying about at high speed.  Not good.  Use a punch or something made of un-hardened steel (rebar for example).

Since you driving out the bearing against its inner race, your bearing are toast and have to be changed.

Slide the inner spacer side to side and hit on the inner race with the punch and hammer.  Start out with a medium hit and observe how far the bearing moves.  If it moves a lot, unlikely, then tone it down.  If it doesn't move, more likely, ramp it up.  Go from side to side so the bearing comes out "square".  If you hit only on one side the bearing comes out sideways which will ovalise the housing's bore.

[cwtech]

If the bearing has been "Locktited" in place, I believe immersing in boiling water destroys the bond.

[EuropaTC]

Hmm, they normally come out quite easily so if yours aren't then I would start to suspect something else is there.

It might be that the previous owner, having some Loctite for the axle splines, has decided to use the same stuff on the bearing "because it will make it better".  Or it might be that the housing was previously damaged and the last time they were assembled with the old dodge of using a dot-punch to raise the holding surfaces slightly and then setting the bearing in retaining compound.

If so, that won't easily be destroyed with gentle heating and I doubt hot water would shift it.  Bearings & seals are scrap so it doesn't matter how brutal you are as long as you don't damage the aluminium. I'd suggest some more heat coupled with a proper punch & heavy hammer as John described.

Brian

[gideon]

Thank you all for your helpful suggestions.  I don't know where I'd be without your help.

This evening I put the upright in a bucket and poured boiling water on top.  Let it sit for a couple of minutes then fished it out and tried to get the seal out using the flat tip screwdriver method that JB suggested.  Nope, not moving.  Next step was to get the MAP gas torch out.  I heated it to about 150 Celsius and tried again.  This time I was able to make it budge and with a few more twists of the screwdriver it was out.  While it was still hot I thought I'd just have another go with the incorrect screwdriver and rubber mallet, as I haven't acquired a proper punch yet.  The inner bearing didn't move, but then I noticed that the outer bearing had moved.  So I turned it over and the outer bearing fell out with just a gentle tap. 

With the outer bearing and spacer out of the way I could take it to the hydraulic press to press the inner bearing out.  When the inner bearing moved it went with a bang.  The photos below show aluminium oxide around the edge of the rubber seal, and iron oxide around the outer edge of the inner bearing and the corresponding part of the bearing housing.  So, it was corrosion that made this difficult.  Well that and my inexperience and the wrong tools.

[BDA]

I can't tell if your bore is still good but there are people who press stainless steel liners in the upright bores. It might be something to consider.

[GavinT]

Well done, Gideon.
Corrosion around the bearings isn't a common problem with these cars, but you took the right steps to get there. 

[jbcollier]

Looks good.  Press is best as it pushes the bearing out square.  If the new bearing is a light press fit, you're good.  You'll need hardened spacers.

[gideon]

I have one more question on this.  The manual says the following

Replacing the bearings is a reversal of the removal procedure outlined in section 'D'. It is suggested
that whilst the bearings are of the sealed type, it is advisable to grease the internal surfaces of the
bearing housing to help prevent corrosion.

Is it a bad idea to grease the bore where the bearing will sit, even if the bearing is a snug fit in the bore?

[jbcollier]

I think they are mainly referring to the interior of the upright.  It's hollow and thin walled.

Should you grease the bearing bores?  No, it's not a good idea.  The uprights already have issues with the bearings becoming loose in the upright.  You certainly don't want to encourage it.

[SwiftDB4]

I can't tell if your bore is still good but there are people who press stainless steel liners in the upright bores. It might be something to consider.

New uprights are available from Banks and SJ in the U.K. $392.

[Dilkris]

New uprights are available from Banks and SJ in the U.K. $392.
[/quote]
$392 from SJ... - try £486 including VAT and delivery to your house (in the UK) - that's US$640 - Each !!!

[SwiftDB4]

New uprights are available from Banks and SJ in the U.K. $392.

$392 from SJ... - try £486 including VAT and delivery to your house (in the UK) - that's US$640 - Each !!!
[/quote]
Sorry my comment wasn't clear. I meant Banks and SJ are UK companies, not that the uprights are $392 to UK buyers. OP is U.S. owner.