Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 ... 10
1
Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 03:47:13 PM »
Hmmm… I would tend to believe Dave but you might consider asking Ken Grey at DBE  or Ray at r.d. for their opinion or ask a machinist what he thinks. I also wonder about welding a bush in the upright. You wouldn’t have the stress of pressing the bush in but I’m pretty sure the upright is heat treated so that might be a problem. Anyway, it seems worth a try. After all it sounds like you’re going to need another upright anyway so you don’t have much to lose.
2
Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by cazman on Today at 02:59:29 PM »
Yea, the axles seemed fine. The play is definitely from the hole. I do not know why I never checked before. Like you said it is a tight fit (even now), until everything is apart and you put only the bolt back in without the shock and link. Then the bolt wobbles. Its worn like an inverted cigar. The center is tight, but the ends are enlarged.
I was thinking of an aluminum bushing too. I can make my own and get a perfect fit. The other reason I asked is that I read (I think in Dave Bean's catalog that you cannot bush the bearing housing for a bearing - it has been tried and cracks.
3
Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 02:14:26 PM »
Thanks Dave - living in the antipodes, I never really came across a "Bonney wrench".
My old Scottish uncle used to tell me about a 'bonny wench' engendering similar constrictions.... so perhaps that's where the confusion set in.  ;)
4
Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 02:10:19 PM »
I say it's serious in that it is unusual (I'm unaware of anyone else complaining about that hole being worn) and could denote a problem such as being hit or improper assembly/disassembly. That 1/2" bolt shouldn't rotate or otherwise move once installed. I've had mine in and out several times and they still require a hammer and punch to get them out of upright.

Of course, that's not to say that it can't be worn (or that the next time I have to take mine apart, it might won't be worn!) and if yours is, I would certainly have a bush pressed in. I think I would have an aluminum bush pressed in. Given that the bolt should be tight in the hole (bush) I might worry that the steel bolt might "grab" a steel bush and when pounding the bolt in or out, it might tend to drive the steel bush with it. On the other hand I might be worrying about noting and steel would be fine. I would consult the person installing the bush.

I would also always use anti-seize when installing the bolt and I would always back it up when tightening or loosening the nut on it.

In any case, checking the condition of the hole should be easy enough and if you've done everything else, it would be a good next check.

Have you checked the condition of your stub-axles? I found one of mine was worn from the bearing (see attached picture). I would expect that you would notice something like that when you changed the bearings but it caught me by surprise.
5
Must be some really valuable stickers. Can't see anything else that could possibly explain doubling the price into the stratosphere.

Actually, I do wonder what is hiding UNDER all those stickers. Every time this car gets posted, which has been over several years now, it is ten tons of hyperbole. AKA BS.
6
Garage / Re: What are we missing, what should I make on a VMC?
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 01:53:56 PM »
With a 3-D printer and some stamping dies...
Sounds like a business case for ash tray customers.  8)
7
Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by cazman on Today at 01:46:10 PM »
Shims are good. This is the last piece in the system that I never looked at closely. Every other part is new and in spec. I suspect that this was worn all along and the other things were just normal maintenance. The wheels have done this since I have had it.

Why do you say it is so serious - because the housing are hard to get and expensive? As far as the play, it seems on par with a worn bushing as far as safety/performance goes.
8
Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by BDA on Today at 11:17:42 AM »
If you have play for the lower link/lower shock mount bolt in the upright, that is very serious. The remedy would be to sleeve the hole with something but that should be a rare occurrence I would think. I think normally, any play there would come from the rubber bushes in the lower link and the lower shock mount bush. Looking at your previous posts, unless the rubber bushes are in obviously poor shape, they wouldn't be the cause of the play you experience at the wheel.

The thing you haven't mentioned is the shims between the inner u-joint and the tranny. Is that properly shimmed?
9
Garage / Re: Rear Wheel movement and Radius Arm Bushing play
« Last post by cazman on Today at 10:59:25 AM »
I am reviving this because I have found another "play" point that we have not talked about here concerning rear suspension play. Over the past couple years I have replaced my u-joints, radius arm bushings, lower links, and hub bearings. I still have some play when I try on move the rear wheel/tire. So, the last culprit I have found is the bottom hole in the rear aluminum bearing housing - it is worn and that is where I still have play.

Question - has anyone successfully bored out that hole (the one that the 1/2" bolt goes thu for the shock and lower link) and bushed it? Seems like there is meat there.
10
Sigh….
Pages: [1] 2 ... 10