It's not easy being green - 1971 TC

[EuropaTC]

As BDA says, that example would clear the screen but you'd only get warm air and nothing from the side vents.

And those side vents are very good when you're on the move, with the windows up you'll get a nice flow of cold air on your face without using the blower, it's one of the best designs on the cars.  In fact I reckon it's better than a lot of more recent cars, with the Europa it's very easy to get warm air on your feet and cold on the face.

Personally I'd avoid anything which reduces space in the front plenum. We've used our car to go away in and always ended up with stuff in the front and rear compartments.

As for the blower motor, I fitted a Honda PS125 motorbike radiator fan. It's 12v, far less bulky than the OEM Lotus one and was as cheap as chips.

Brian

[Cheguava]

Thanks BDA and Brian - I did wonder if that tube would stop air getting to the dash vents. Thanks for the tip about motorcycle fans too, eBay is awash with them at reasonable prices, so looks like a plan for the rebuild.

Made more progress today, deployed the angry spanner on some of the nuts and bolts that would not undo and removed the radiator, air horns, blower, and (just using a socket!) the chin spoiler. Having to jack up the car and remove the n/s front wheel to attack the air horn fixings revealed just how much is going to need doing once I get to the Meccano phase, but I also noticed how much the light shines through the body tub, like a magic lantern. Is this standard added lightness, or has some coating fallen off?

[BDA]

That looks pretty bad!!! I can see you have your work cut out for you!

Don't be alarmed by the light shining through your fiberglass. It just means that the paint has come off one or the other (or both) sides of the fiberglass there.

[TurboFource]

If you aren’t patient now, you will be! The majority of the parts on my TCST project have been a challenge to get off and/or apart…..thankfully they are simple cars 

[Cheguava]

That looks pretty bad!!! I can see you have your work cut out for you!

Don't be alarmed by the light shining through your fiberglass. It just means that the paint has come off one or the other (or both) sides of the fiberglass there.

Yeah - I knew that it was going to need work to the front of the chassis, and not having been on the road for 20 years, would need a lot replacing, and that's absolutely the case.

Thanks for confirming about the fibreglass, that's going in the "good news" category! Looks like I'll need some suitable stonechip that will adhere to fibreglass. 

[BDA]

On the TCs and TCSs there was a stone guard (a piece of screen) bonded under the front fender above the tire. The S1s and S2s didn’t seem to have them. Other than those, I don’t think you need much else. I’ve heard of some using pickup truck bed liner in places like under fenders and it can protect the fiberglass from stones.

[Kendo]

As I understand it, that under fender stone guard is a fiberboard like the door sill closing plates. But my TCS didn’t have it, due to incomplete repairs in the past. So I’m open to being convinced. The truck bed liner approach also sounds good.

[BDA]

I think you’re right about the fiberboard. That’s more in line with Lotus practice than screen.

[Cheguava]

I’ve heard of some using pickup truck bed liner in places like under fenders and it can protect the fiberglass from stones.

Sounds like a plan, should be pretty tough. Been out today but did a bit more this evening - front end cleared so inside now. I'd forgotten what an emotional rollercoaster restoration is. Getting the passenger seat out was the usual mix - sill side nuts just turning underneath, and couldn't see the bolt heads, but then realised the seat runners had disintegrated and not holding it. Front inside came off - nyloc nut!  Rear inside just twisted though, and had to grind it off. Seat frame looks of, but now need a set of runners.

More daft questions - whilst lying on the floor to get at the seat fixings, I noticed a hole below the passenger door - no idea what it's doing there or why anyone made it - can't see what it would access. And there was a plaque riveted to the n/s sill at some stage, any ideas what was there?

[Kendo]

That hole under the door looks like the access tot he door hinge pin. Looking up it, does it align with the hinge bobbins in the body?

[Cheguava]

That hole under the door looks like the access tot he door hinge pin. Looking up it, does it align with the hinge bobbins in the body?

Good shout - there's a "matching" but tidier hole on the driver's side, and I can feel the bottom of the hinge through the hole.

[EuropaTC]

Yep, looks like the access hole to remove the door pin (now there's a job to look forward to    )

If you get underneath & look up you should see the bottom of the 1/2" steel door pin. This is threaded (1/4" ?) which you can make up a slide hammer arrangement to pull it down/out with the car in the air.  In practice, if this is the first time around then it's more than likely rusted solid, release fluid might get it loose but be prepared to cut it away or get mole grips from inside the door to get it started.

[Cheguava]

Thanks again Brian - a job that will be coming up in the next month or two as I need to deliver it to the sprayers with doors removed - they were particular about that - it's almost like they knew! 

[BDA]

The ends of the hinge pins are tapped in 5/16 coarse IIRC. That should help when you are ready to take them out.

[GavinT]

5/16" UNF, I thought?
Anyway, no matter . . . if the front hub pic is an indication of general condition, save yourself some time, aggravation and possible damage to the bobbins or the fibreglass it's mounted in.

Use a hacksaw blade or a reciprocating saw to cut them out.
Much better to sacrifice a couple of pieces of cheap 1/2" steel rod than risking some of the potential down sides, I reckon.