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Bainford:

--- Quote from: Bryan Boyle on Thursday,May 05, 2022, 12:58:08 PM ---
I usually put in threaded fittings so I can attach the luggage box with long 1/4-20 screws; having a place to put tools, supplies, and the normal ash and trash you accumulate in the trunk might be a winner.

--- End quote ---
I took the boot box bolts out of mine ten years ago and never put them back in. The box is in and out all the time for maintenance, etc. When it’s empty, it’s easy to lift the engine cover with one hand and pull out the box with the other (broom handle prop stashed in the body behind the wheel wells. Having said that, threaded fittings will take much of the hassle out of removing the box.

EuropaTC:

--- Quote from: Bainford on Thursday,May 05, 2022, 07:05:12 PM ---I took the boot box bolts out of mine ten years ago and never put them back in. The box is in and out all the time for maintenance, etc. When it’s empty, it’s easy to lift the engine cover with one hand and pull out the box with the other (broom handle prop stashed in the body behind the wheel wells. Having said that, threaded fittings will take much of the hassle out of removing the box.

--- End quote ---

 :)

Ditto. It's not going anywhere and I'm surprised Colin let those bolts & washers go for rides on his car.....

As Bainford says, it makes access for maintenance so much easier if you can just pull it out and climb in.  With gas or mechanical struts on either side of the lid it's very easy to drop it in or out. (but of course the broom handle would probably be Colin's choice, providing it stayed in the garage)

Brian

Bryan Boyle:

--- Quote from: EuropaTC on Thursday,May 05, 2022, 10:05:27 PM ---
--- Quote from: Bainford on Thursday,May 05, 2022, 07:05:12 PM ---I took the boot box bolts out of mine ten years ago and never put them back in. The box is in and out all the time for maintenance, etc. When it’s empty, it’s easy to lift the engine cover with one hand and pull out the box with the other (broom handle prop stashed in the body behind the wheel wells. Having said that, threaded fittings will take much of the hassle out of removing the box.

--- End quote ---

 :)

Ditto. It's not going anywhere and I'm surprised Colin let those bolts & washers go for rides on his car.....

As Bainford says, it makes access for maintenance so much easier if you can just pull it out and climb in.  With gas or mechanical struts on either side of the lid it's very easy to drop it in or out. (but of course the broom handle would probably be Colin's choice, providing it stayed in the garage)

Brian

--- End quote ---

Not being too worried about incremental weight...for a road car (unless it is things like an extra 40 lbs of dead weight at the far back end of the car, hence my moving the battery back to where it belongs/was designed to sit near the middle), the alternative is to use twist-lock fasteners (southco, from aircraft spruce) into the rubber mounts (I have a few spares from when I updated my aircraft cowling attachment).  For whatever reason, on one of my previous, when I went over a bump, because the sides were a bit weak, the box would drop down into the rear.  Of course, I was also carrying 50 lbs of tools and assorted crap in the box (this was in my first europa). 

My last (693R), I just cut some 1/2" dowels, painted them black, and cut to length to fit into the corners of the opening down by the drain holes.  Made them up after my first car show where I just used the prop rods to open up the boot and bonnet for display, and the sun helped warp both the bonnet and boot lids...had to prop them from the other side and leave the car in the sun to warp them back.  Learned my lesson; two rods for the boot, two for the bonnet, and stashed them when not using along the passenger seat and tunnel. 

Lots of ways to skin this.  I like the idea I saw along the way; someone replaced the pins in the rear hinge with clips that you could pull out and remove the lid entirely.  THAT would make access, if you were diving into the engine room, even easier while still allowing you to open and close the lid as normal.  Of course, I'd add in a forward facing lip at the front flange so that curious evildoers couldn't pop the pins and remove the lid when you weren't looking...;)

Bryan Boyle:
Well...went down the road today.  Eezbleed works great; took longer to get the car up on stands and wheels off than it took to bleed the system, 3 times around the car.  Full pedal now.  Yes, a bit higher pedal effort than I'm used to...but the car stops straight. 

But...has a real fierce clutch; either on or off, and little slip.  Thinking of stocking up on the bits I need to replace it.  And...downshifts from 4-3 get a little crunchy...going to refresh the gear oil with new and see if that helps clear...if now, will be searching for a wrench (on this side of the fence) who can work on the x65 transaxle.  After 50 years and 50K+ miles...may be time to refresh the synchros.  For now...double clutch on the way down seems to work ok.  Not the first car I've had to do that with.

And..it's obvious that the bushings need to be looked at...and perhaps a new set of shocks all around (I have euro length springs for the front from a previous disassembly...so will get the nose down where it belongs) and bushings.

New clutch cable on the shelf with the engine-mounted bracket at the ready...so, that will be this week's chore to take care of.

Two steps forward...and none really in the reverse direction.  A good Europa day, all in all. 

BDA:
Congratulations on your drive!

I recommend Red Line tranny oil for your crunchy 4->3 shift. It’s magic and it doesn’t smell like gear oil. I don’t know about synchros. I would expect them to last more than 50,000 miles… but I sometimes expect things to have longer life than is reasonable.

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