Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Members Cars => Topic started by: wilkrod on Thursday,June 30, 2022, 11:01:01 AM
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All finally found my Europa TC to add to the collection. Came from Wire Wheel Classsics, Haynes is a great guy to work with. Went down to his shop yesterday to do an eyes on inspection, and was very pleased, it is an older restoration in overall great condition. VIN is 2109 R, it is a 72 TC. They are going to deliver it next week, I will post more pics then.
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Congratulations on your new baby! :beerchug:
She looks to be a beauty! I know I speak for everybody here when I say we're anxiously awaiting pictures!
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Congrats!
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Woohoo!! Congrats. Beautiful Europa. :beerchug:
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Wilkrod...
Good luck, she looks great. Remember to add some pictures when you can.
ps...2109R is listed in the registry & the original color was pistachio.
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HI all,
Well the bad boy showed up today, some of the details:
Hayes did a leak down, and compression test, numbers were great 200+, and less than 5% leakdown.
The exhaust has to go, I want to put it back to the stock location, S.S. header, and exhaust. Then I will be looking for a trunk floor. It is injected, so I need to research what system it is and go from there. Trans is suposed to be an NG5, will have to verify. It has upper links in the rear, adj. coilovers all around. No brake boosters, so need to see what was done there. I can't adjust the seats, so need to see what the issue is. The doors are badly mis-aligned so thats on the list. I don't like the steering wheel, so will be looking for a stock replacement. Body, and chassis are in great shape, no complaints. Thats it for now, welcome your comments, and suggestions.
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:Welcome: wilkrod. Your car looks fantastic, and your todo list looks small (in 50 year old car terms). My (armchair) advice is to take a bit of time and drive the car before getting starting with your own changes. You might get a different perspective on what needs to change.
The luggage boxes are available from Boss Motors in Snetterton, UK if you can't find one locally
https://www.facebook.com/Boss-motors-1852531295061863
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8)
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She is really pretty!!! Short to-do list is good too! Congratulations! :beerchug:
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I'll be following your finding about the fuel injection systems because I'm planning to do the same with my Europa Twin Cam Special.
Great looking Europa you found there.
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So started with the drivers door as it was the worst. need to raise the back corner up by an inch or more.
Got to the nuts on the hinge and got the upper and lower loose.
I am not understanding how these adjustments work.
With the nuts loose do I simply maneuver the door until it is the position I want, or is there some sequence of screwing the top, and bottom nut in/out to perform the alignment?
Thanks
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Like you said, once it’s loose, it’s loose. So maneuver the door around until it is where you want it. Bias a bit too high, because the door will sag. I had best results with the seats out and a helper inside to tighten the nuts when you like the fit. It still takes a few iterations. The door striker plate might also need adjusting.
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That looks like an MBE ecu - I would suspect that it was sourced from Banks as Richard used to supply complete kits to effectively ‘bolt on’. - wiring loom, throttle bodies and any sensors.
Exhaust system also looks like a Banks supplied system, the ‘up and over’ was commonly fitted to the race Twin Cams or those running higher hp, the system was actually designed and manufactured for Banks by a well respected race exhaust specialist here in the uk. There was a version available that allowed the rear boot box to be fitted but was a little less free flowing… Banks did have a modified boot box available that worked with the system you have (albeit with a smaller luggage capacity).
Nice looking car, hope you enjoy owning and driving it.
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That looks like an MBE ecu - I would suspect that it was sourced from Banks as Richard used to supply complete kits to effectively ‘bolt on’. - wiring loom, throttle bodies and any sensors.
Do you think Banks still supply that kit?
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Banks/Richard used to supply all sorts of things. Europa body and chassis to take parts from a donor Smart Car anyone? Most of that is no longer available.
If you want to switch to injection, there are suppliers, no problem. Just search for Lotus Twin Cam injection. You can also do it from scratch yourself. Nothing will be a straight bolt on, drive off. There will be some fabrication and programming required. Sticking with Webers or Dells will be a cheaper and simpler option with known base settings and only minor tweaks after that.
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Wilkrod, I was thinking about your hinge problem (I know, not as much fun as the injection discussion, which I’m avidly following). Two more points to consider. 1) the nuts you see only lock down the horizontal location of each hinge point: front/back, left/right. 2) Height is adjusted IIRC by adding washers under the bottom hinge point. So unless you plan to remove the doors, you are stuck with that height. Maybe the previous adjuster got that right. :/
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Hi all,
Thanks for the input on the door adjustment, I was over thinking it, as usual, I get it now.
Yes the ECU is MBE, and the ITB is Luminition. I will probably scrap the whole deal, and go with Jenvey ITB, and Megasquirt ECU with wasted spark ignition.
Updates as they happen.
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I have an interest in that header if you want to get rid of it when you swap it out…..
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Hi all,
Sorry, but I am struggling here, seat removal, it can't be that hard!
On my Esprit, you just undo the four nuts under the car which hold the seat rails, and then just lift the seat out.
So I undid the four nuts under the Europa floor, but the seats won't budge. What am I missing?
Sorry to bother, thanks much.
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The bolts are also screwed into the metal inserts in the fibreglass. Mine doesn't have a nut underneath, just bolts screwed through the bottom rail.
Slide seat right back, undo the single bolt at the front of each rail. Slide the seat all the way forward and undo the single bolt at the back of each rail. The back ones are a bit fiddly.
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Hi All,
Thanks for the info regarding the seat bolts being screwed into inserts.
Seats are frozen in the rails, I did manage to get the front two bolts of the seat to frame, if I can get the seat to move forward hopefully I can access the rear bolts.
Updates to follow.
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Yes the ECU is MBE, and the ITB is Luminition. I will probably scrap the whole deal, and go with Jenvey ITB, and Megasquirt ECU with wasted spark ignition.
Tbh the MBE system is pretty good, used by Caterham and a fair few others. All you need is the software and you can adjust to your hearts content.
Also, the Luminition ITB’s and Jenvey ITB’s are pretty much identical other than the colour and branding.
Do you think Banks still supply that kit?
No idea what they supply currently, there’s no reason why Richard wouldn’t still supply a kit but you would be best talking to him directly. He used to do a mapped ignition version as well as the full fuel injection kit.
Banks/Richard used to supply all sorts of things. Europa body and chassis to take parts from a donor Smart Car anyone? Most of that is no longer available.
If you want to switch to injection, there are suppliers, no problem. Just search for Lotus Twin Cam injection. You can also do it from scratch yourself. Nothing will be a straight bolt on, drive off. There will be some fabrication and programming required. Sticking with Webers or Dells will be a cheaper and simpler option with known base settings and only minor tweaks after that.
The Smart car Europa was one of Richards personal projects, just showcasing how versatile his chassis is to accept many different drive trains etc (I’m told that he did a fair bit with Smart cars around that time), he talked many times about building a diesel powered Europa also.
From the picture it appears to be a full fuel injection system already, the MBE is adjustable with their software (actually easy enough to swap the ecu plug to suit other brands of programmable ECU’s if you can’t get the software - have seen it done many times at relatively small expense)
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Whew!
OK, seat is out,calling that a win for today, door alignment tomorrow.
Beer, and F1 race for the afternoon.
After I got the front bolts out, a slide hammer hooked to the seat frame allowed me to get the seat far enough forward to easily get the back bolts out.
Regards
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Great. One step at a time... :beerchug:
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:Welcome:
Wilkrod
Great to have another tc in Florida.
I went with the stainless set of hinges for the doors. I don’t regret it one bit.
Dakazman
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So I spoke with MBE regarding the ECU in the Europa, it's 987Eg, last produced in 2003, no technical support, or repair capability, no documentation, etc. So I will be replacing it with something modern. The throttle bodies are growing on me, so may keep them. On to aligning the doors.
Regards
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So started looking at the transaxle it appears to be the NG5, wondering if anyone has done this conversion.
Thanks
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So started looking at the transaxle it appears to be the NG5, wondering if anyone has done this conversion.
Thanks
There are plenty of NG converted cars out there. I have one.
Looking at your pics I would guess that a previous owner purchased a lot of parts and updates from Banks (injection system, twin link kit, Avo dampers and springs, NG kit including gear change, possibly fuel tanks, maybe even the trimmed centre console...) might be worth asking the PO to confirm or maybe try to get in touch with Richard at Banks to clarify and put your mind at rest about anything?
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So decision made, out with EFI, in with a 123 distributor, and Weber 40 DCOEs.
I don't trust the plumbing/wiring, going to go for simple vs. complex the way a Europa should be.
On another note, reviewing the records I got with the car, seems PO purchased a rebuilt engine, NG5 trans, linkage, upper rear links, and a bunch of other stuff from Banks back in the day. I am hoping the NG5 linkage will still allow a stock header. Time will tell.
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I’m not sure what I’m looking at but in case you’re not aware, most braided hose companies sell clamps that also finish the end of braided hose. For example, Earls (now owned by Holley) has the red nuts used in their regular hose ends but with hose clamps inside them. It keeps the braid from biting you and it’s an economical way to dress up your braided hose runs when more traditional hose ends aren’t practical.
Your NG5, being in the NG family, would likely allow the same linkage variations (there are a few). That being the case, I would expect most headers would work.
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BDA,
Thanks, I understand your point, I have been doing EFI systems for 20 years, was taught to always use AN fittings. I moved away from the SS braid about 5 years ago now use Starlite exclusively with AN fittings. I don't know if you can see in the pics, but the output of the fuel pump is just hose with a hose clamp on the check valve, also the fuel filter is only low pressure plastic. Everything I see in total just makes me very uncomfortable about the plumbing, wiring. The other key point that convinced me to go with the webers is the obsolete ECU, I would end up spending as much on a modern ECU as what the webers will cost. Many years ago before EFI systems were common, I converted a Porsche 924 from the Bosch electro/hydraulic injection to webber DCOEs, and it was a great, simple system, ran great.
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I have to admit that hose technology has kind of passed me by since I was an Earls distributor. I am smart enough, at least, to match the hose with the expected pressure! That goes for modern automotive electronics too. I hear of people using ECUs with Webers and assume there must be an advantage - those things ain't cheap - but I just don't see it.
I hope to hear more about your build!
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Hi all,
Well doors are nicely aligned, took three of us, all engineers to do it! Learning curve was pretty shallow, drivers door took about 4 hours, passenger only about 20 minutes. I received my 123 distributor, and Pierce has shipped a pair of 40DCOE webers jetted per Wilkins book. I will start removing the injection while I wait for the webers. Thats it for now.
Regads
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pair of 40DCOE webers jetted per Wilkins book.
Regads
Can you tell us what jets you are using, as I have mixed information on what to use.
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These are from the Wilkins book on the TC.
choke: 33mm
main jet: 120
air-corrector jet: 155
slow-running jet: 50F8
accelerator-pump jet: 35
accelerator-pump stroke: 10mm
starter air jet: 100
starter petrol jet: F.5/100
emulsion tube: F11
Needle valve: 1.75
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Thanks for that.
Is that for Federal cams?
Any idea what sort of BHP that should produce?
I have a free flow exhaust system and manifold (header), and a gas flowed head. Otherwise standard spec with Federal cams.
Currently 2520R pulls very cleanly after about 2500 revs, but below that it seems unhappy, a bit like holding a racehorse back when it wants to gallop off.
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My best advice short of tuning on a Dyno would be to install a wideband O2 sensor that can data log to see where your A/F ratio is, also check your ignition advance curve to make sure it is appropriate.
Regards
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Out with the old, in with the new.
The throttle bodies are actually Jenvey units badged as luminition.
Need to figure out how to put the distributor in correctly, hoping timing marks are on the flywheel.
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Wilkrod - I would like to know what boss you have for the steering wheel and column to fit that steering wheel. Do you happen to know what it is or have paperwork on it? I wouldn’t mind doing something like that to my Seven S4.
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What steering wheel are you referring to?
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Out with the old, in with the new.
The throttle bodies are actually Jenvey units badged as luminition.
Need to figure out how to put the distributor in correctly, hoping timing marks are on the flywheel.
Marks should be on the flywheel; alternatively, in Wilkins' book, is a diagram of the position of the #4 cam lobes when #1 is at TDC, which you can see if you take off the oil filler cap. From there, it's easy to preset the dizzy to point to the #1 lead on the cap and install (usually, all 4 wires exist to the rear pointing at the 9 o'clock position (relatively speaking). Just what I found.
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Bryan,
Thanks for the info.
Silly question, on the dizzy cap, what cylinders go to which connections on the cap?
My car didn't use a dizzy cap.
Thanks
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The firing order is 1,3,4,2, so it all depends where your rotor is on TDC on #1 cylinder when the cam lobes are pointing apart on #1, and pointing towards each other on #4, seen at the oil filler cap.
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Hi all,
While cleaning out the fuel tanks, was looking at the data tag on the NG3 Trans. It is stamped with NG3 S20. Searched the Renault docs on the NG series, and couldn't find that suffix listed. The trans came from Banks if that helps, anyone seen that suffix before?
Thanks
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I'm assuming that you've looked at the NG workshop manual (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/ng.pdf). Of course, there is no S20 suffix. Those tags can be bent up and wrinkled so that the suffix is hard to read. Maybe you could post a picture of your tag so you can get more opinions about what it says.
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Does this help?
Thanks
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That is confusing. The manual strongly implies the tags are round (mine was) and the suffixes are three digits (mine was pretty beat up but it said "000" the best I could tell. I'm guessing you have a 020 but you might try asking Michel at Alpine-America (http://www.alpine-america.qc.ca/). Michel speaks English but his accent is really heavy so it's hard to understand him. If you don't know French, you might use a translation app to translate your message from English to French and email it to him. His email is mguegan@alpine-america.qc.ca.
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What steering wheel are you referring to?
The OMP one on the Europa
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Kid,
Sorry I don't have any info on the wheel/hub, just that it fit the europa fine, I will sell it if you are interested, it's like new.
Jeff
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Hi all,
So last step in removing the old fuel system, tanks are out for cleaning, good thing as I see I need a new fuel level sending unit! Special tool was made at great expense for holding the non captive bolts in the brackets while I backed off the nut in the sill cavity. To make life easier for the re-install, I am thinking rivnuts in the brackets and bolting in from the sill cavity. Any thoughts of wisdom? The bolts cannot be captive in the brackets without modifying the access hole in the bottom of the body to accommodate the extra width.
Regards
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Ugh - it's a good job the tanks are alumin(i)um.
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Hi All,
Tanks are done, going back in tomorrow.
Can anyone recommend a plug wire set to go with the 123 Distributor?
Thanks
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Hi all,
So last step in removing the old fuel system, tanks are out for cleaning, good thing as I see I need a new fuel level sending unit! Special tool was made at great expense for holding the non captive bolts in the brackets while I backed off the nut in the sill cavity. To make life easier for the re-install, I am thinking rivnuts in the brackets and bolting in from the sill cavity. Any thoughts of wisdom? The bolts cannot be captive in the brackets without modifying the access hole in the bottom of the body to accommodate the extra width.
Regards
The original tanks had captive nuts welded to the brackets, so inserting the bolts from the wheel arch openings is how they were originally installed.
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Excellent!
Glad I was on the correct track.
Welding steel nuts to aluminum brackets is above my pay grade, so went with the riveted nut plates.
They went in with no issues.
Regards
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Excellent!
Glad I was on the correct track.
Welding steel nuts to aluminum brackets is above my pay grade, so went with the riveted nut plates.
They went in with no issues.
Regards
:FUNNY: x2 that
Dakazman
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Progress, tanks cleaned, new level sender installed, tanks back in place, the nut plates worked perfectly! New flip fill caps added. I will start plumbing today as I wait for the hurricane to arrive.
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Hi All,
So fuel system plumbing is complete, all AN with a Facett vertical fuel pump. Carbs are ready to install. Need to get the wiring sorted, kind of a mess, but shouldn't be a problem. FYI, you can remove the dashpad with out removing the windshield, you can access the screws holding the the vents from underneath once you remove the instrument panel. Not easy, but beats removing the glass.
Regards
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Nicely done on the plumbing and pretty clever of you to think about loosening those screws from under the crashpad! If that is ever a problem for me, I don't think that would work for me because I think the screws are too long to exit the crashpad with the windshield there.
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Hi All,
Continuing to unravel this wiring mess.
Does anyone know what this white connector is for?
Also my ignition switch connector is missing whatever hardware holds it to the lock mechanism, anyone know if this hardware is available?
Thanks much
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It's been a while since I've been under the dash there but I don't remember seeing anything like that white plug.
IIRC, the ignition switch is held on to the lock mechanism with a plastic cover. Mine developed a crack so taped the crack and keep the plastic cover for making sure nothing shorts any of the wires going to the switch. I hold the switch onto the lock with a zip tie. I've heard someone else here has done the same thing. That repair has worked for more than 20 years on my car.
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Seatbelt/starter interlock. I would bypass it by jumping the WR (from ignition switch) to the YK (to start relay).
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Gentlemen,
Thanks for the responses, I will put that plug on my list of items to delete.
For the ignition switch, I am going to 3D print a two piece clamp to keep the switch in place.
Regards
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I was overthinking this ignition switch thing, as ususal.
Two 10-24 grub screws, 90 deg. apart, and the switch is secure, 5 min job.
Regards
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Guys, getting ready to do some testing on my wiring, sanity check, when looking at the ammeter front face is the brown batter y cable on the left rear terminal of the gauge?
Many thanks
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Dunno. Attach battery to one side and hook up a load to the other. Negative reading is what you want.
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Battery, + BROWN to the right side of gauge . Left side Brown /WHT to alternator, on the S2.
TC right is Battery + , Left side BRN/WHT
Viewed from the rear.
Dakazman
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Thanks Gents, I will proceed, and hope the fire gods don't visit me.
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How many wires do you have off? just connect the brn and the brn/wht . which way does the needle move?
dakazman
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Wiring is done, between the 75 harness in a 72 car , and previous undocumented mods it was a pain.
Have to finish up some work on the dashpad, and then put it back together. Carbs going in after that.
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Looking good! :beerchug:
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Could someone recommend a cooling system overflow tank cap? My present one will not hold pressure, and is marked as 7 psi.
thanks much
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I have a 7 lb. Stant with a lever to relieve the pressure when taking it off. I got it before I built my car so it's probably going on 25 years old and seems to work fine. I think any newer cap would be fine. Make sure there's nothing keeping it from sealing first.
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There is a recommendation in the Dave Bean catalogue to use the lowest pressure cap you can find. The reasoning is to reduce the pressure working against the water pump seal, and thereby extend its life.
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Thanks guys, have a 7 psi cap coming today from Summit racing.
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Hi all,
Has anyone installed the Sytec STLK100 cable throttle kit on twin Webers?
I am confused on how the cables are connected.
Do the cable sheaths reside in the engine compartment with bare cable running to the cable block that is installed on the gas pedal?
Thanks for any info.
Regards
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First, from what I was able to tell, you only get one meter of cable which isn't going to be enough so you're going to have to make your own. To your question, your cable would normally be sheathed from the arm hanging down from part #4 (http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/tcparts/j/tcje.pdf) back to the linkage as displayed in the pictures.
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Hi All,
Duh! stock cable can be used, just have to shorten the outer sheath about 3".
Works fine, have to see if I want to use both return springs.
Regards
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Beautiful motor!
I use both springs on mine. Belt and suspenders...
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Thanks!
I will hook up the second spring, and see if it's too stiff.
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Progress chart.
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Hi all,
Anyone use stat-o-seal washers on the banjo fuel inlets of the webers? I can't get mine to stop weeping fuel with the standard washers.
Thanks
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Stat-o-seals would definitely work buy you should make sure that hole in the banjo bolt still aligns with the fluid path in the banjo fitting (it is unlikely not to but you should make sure).
Before you do that, what kind of washers are you using? Looking at the fuel components at Pierce Manifolds (https://www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/149.htm), they seem to use fiber washers. I've also seen copper washers used. You didn't mention it but I'd advise that you resist the temptation to use silicone since it is attacked by the gasoline and could (will) get in your carb.
I think the fiber washers are your best bet but they also offer the bits to eliminate banjo fittings all together without the expense of stainless steel braided line. Certainly a lot more expensive but it eliminates potential leak paths that are endemic to banjo fittings.
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I use aluminium or copper sealing washers, preferably the former.
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I have just bought two pairs of banjos, and they came with red fibre washers, a large one and a smaller one.
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It will work just fine.
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So, I fitted the stat-o-seals, worked perfectly, no more weeping fuel.
Next problem.
Engine will not fire, not even a cough.
I have spark, float bowls are full, timing should be close enough to at least get a cough. Pulled a plug, dry as a bone.
Any thoughts
Thanks
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What is the condition of your carbs? Assuming they are in good shape, your jets are clear, try pumping the gas a few times before you try to start it. Do your accelerator pumps work and are the jets are clear?
The fuel level is very important. This is the way I do it (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=meaGMoH4Pmw), but if y don’t have an electric fuel pump, that won’t work for you. Here’s another method (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WT_CXqG8tn4).
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I see the starter carbs are not hooked. There will be squat fuel flow for a cold engine. Use a small mirror to make sure the accel pumps are working. Pump 4 or 5 times and hit the throttle slightly open. See if it fires/coughs now.
I set up the starter carbs on my Dells. Works great. Starts far easier than the pump and pray technique.
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Hi Guys,
Thanks for the response.
Carbs are new jetted per Wilkins TC book, new electric pump, which is working. I did check, set the float levels per the Des Hammill Weber book. Checked the fuel level in the bowls using a wood dowel in the main jet hole after removing the main jet, and measured a consistent 1.5" after turning off the fuel pump. So it would seem I have sufficient fuel in the bowls.
I do have the cold start carb hooked up, and did use it my last attempt.
Do have to just crank the shit out of it?
Thanks
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Do you have oil pressure when cranking?
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Yes sir.
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Well boys, got her running!
Combination of the 123 dist. not set up correctly, and vacuum leak at the carb mounts.
Got it started using the cold start enrichment. Am now working on the idle mixture/progression circuit.
Will take a video when done.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Regards
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:beerchug:
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Was the 123 distributor difficult to set up?
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Was the 123 distributor difficult to set up?
Yes, and no. At least for me I wasn't understanding the instructions until the third try, then it made sense.
I am not the sharpest tack in the box.
What ultimately worked for me was to set the engine at TDC comp. instead of the static timing point. As I am using the 123+ version you can then set up the timing settings using the App.
Regards
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Sent you a PM
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So, decided to make the final tune on the Webers using the correct exhaust system. Pulled out the old exhaust, and am prepping the new one for ceramic coating. Also bought the trunk liner from SJ. My question is how does it fit into the car? I can see I need to trim the edges to allow the trunk lid to close, but not sure if the liner is supposed to sit on top of the lip of the body, also how is it bolted in? Last issue will be filling the hold left over from the old exhaust.
Thanks for any input.
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It's hard to see from your picture but it seems to fit pretty well already. You might have to trim some on the sides. It shouldn't cover any of the rain gutter. Originally it was bolted to the cross member with riv-nut type nuts in the cross member. Another lister here (I couldn't find his post to acknowledge his idea) used push button latches as you might find on a hood (https://www.pushbuttonlatches.com/). I installed a pair on my trunk tray and I think they are an improvement. I have to admit that it isn't always quick to get everything aligned to reinstall the trunk but sometimes it's effortless and there is no bolt head in the trunk. Originally there were thick foam "washer" that cushioned and supported the floor of the trunk so you'll have to make up something for that. If it's not there provided, you'll have to make a heat shield to protect the trunk tray from the heat from your exhaust. If it is there, it's probably in the TC position and since you appear to be rerouting your exhaust to be more like the S2) you'd have to move it.
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I believe BDA is referring to my post on how I mounted my luggage tray. See:
http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=5468.msg58887#msg58887
Gerry
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Thanks for the link to your original post, Gerry.
Summit Racing is good source for a lot of good stuff but in this case, I went to the manufacturer. They were a little cheaper.
They are also available on fleabay (search for mini hood latches).
Kudos to you for the idea!!
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Gerry,
Thanks very much, just what I needed!
Regards
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Do those mini latches provide enough vertical support for a suitcase? Or is that not a good idea anyway?
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So, I ceramic coated the yellow cars header, installed with new S/S studs/nuts, fit perfectly. Muffler not so much, the stock muffler won't fit due to modified suspension/gearbox. So time to make a custom exhaust. Should be fun. Bring Bignose.
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Finished up the exhaust system today. Magnaflow muffler, made a support for it that bolts to the trans. made the mid pipe with a 45, welded to a straight section to a 90 which connects to the header. Fusion welded the pipe came out ok, the O2 bung is the saddle type which looks a little sketchey, but works fine. Am debating whether or not to wrap the pipe in the header wrap to reduce heat. Any thoughts?
Jeff
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Exhaust installed, waiting on some wiring heat insulation from DEI, then will fire it up.
Regards
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I wrapped the exhaust from the muffler to the headers. My header tubes are too close together to wrap them individually and I didn't want to wrap a bunch of tubes together. I was mainly trying to reduce the heat to the sump and the oil tank (which really belongs elsewhere but that's another story). I can't say it makes a difference or not.
I checked at the beginning of this thread and you suspect you have an NG5 tranny. That appears to be the weaker twin to an NG3 in that the NG3 has 4 planet wheels and the NG5 only has 2. I don't know if that should cause you any problems given that your motor should be stronger than a stock TC motor, but you might want to check on that or at least keep it in mind.
Please let us know how it comes out when you get her on the road.
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What is the rod going to the bracket on the tranny?
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That rod is used to help make the linkage rotate when you move the gear shift from left to right. The linkage pivots on the end you can't see. It's similar to the 336 linkage, if you've seen that. I've attached a couple of pictures of mine which works the same way.
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These cars certainly have unusual shift linkages….
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Guys,
Thanks for the input.
It is indeed an NG3, found the data tag a while back.
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Good! The NG3 is better. As I’ve posted before, it’s ironic that parts for the 3xx transaxles are easier to find. I only recently found the last bearing I needed for my rebuild. In the near future I’ll be posting the parts and where I got them.
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Solved my issue with the hole in the back end from the previous exhaust outlet.
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Pretty clever! :beerchug:
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Hi all,
So finished the exhaust system after a recent distraction. Start the car with a touch of choke, fires right up, let it warm up a bit, check the carb synch, set the idle, give it a few revs, and notice gas dripping out of the cylinder #3 carb inlet where the horn bolts to the carb body! also started getting backfire thru #3. Promptly killed power, and gas continued to drip out the carb inlet for #3, all others were dry.
Any thoughts?
Regards
Jeff
P.S. the distraction was caused by the new silver vehicle.
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Check your float heights, fuel for debris and fuel pressure.
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All good!
Had a vacum leak at the carb/manifold . Fixed that by tightening the nuts evenly. Started right up, no backfiring, synced the carbs, adjusted idle mixture, set idle speed. Now all that is left is getting the alternator rebuilt.
Regards
Jeff
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Hi All,
So my alternator guy says my Delco DN460 can't be rebuilt.
Picked up a WAI 14030N which fits.
My problem is getting it correctly wired as the connections are labeled with nothing I recognize. Anyone know how this is hooked up?
Many thanks.
Jeff
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WL = warning light - NY wire (brown wire with a yellow tracer)
B+ = battery positive - large N wire (brown)
You can get a connector kit for this alternator:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GEU250
Most British sports car parts suppliers have them.
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JB,
Thanks so much, you rule!
So no sense needed, nor separate ground?
Ordered the connector, perfect.
Regards
Jeff
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Alt is grounded through the mounting bracket to the bell housing/engine.
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HI All,
So due to my recent acquisition of the 360 Spyder, I am in need of more shop space. Decided to sell the Europa as it is complete and driving.
Asking $35K if anyone is interested.
Regards
Jeff
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Sad to see you go! I hope your baby goes to a good home and you enjoy your Spyder!
You might list it in the for sale portion with some pictures.