new owner '74 TCS misc ?

[BDA]

4am!!! That's motivation! Congratulations! 

[Lumbes]

With the new dizzy the Lotus runs better than and I'm ready to move forward a couple steps.  Found a mechanic that will be able to send the engine head off to be checked for cracks warpage etc.  Looking to rebuild the top half with 10.5 cr pistons and hotter street cams overall outcome 145-150 hp if all goes well.  Ready to ditch the stock fed rusted exhaust system for something better flowing.  The Banks TC race exhaust is very tempting to me but am concerned in clearance issues when installing it in my car.  I've seen a few examples of the Banks race exhaust installed in TCS with a muffler/silencer for street use and would be interested in that setup.  All examples I've seen are without the brake boosters but my car still has the boosters. I can't tell through images if the boosters need to be removed to accommodate a Banks race exhaust.  Anyone have experience with this or able to give an answer to if the boosters need to go?  Thank you.   

[Lumbes]

Went with the exhaust system from rd enterprises.  The 47 exhaust system is very cool but I'm not at that point yet.  They said it is good for 150hp then had it ceramic coated once it arrived.  I removed the old cast and exhaust in pieces then replaced all the manifold studs along with new gaskets.  Bolted everything up with new manifold nuts and it seems like the exhaust elbow pipe will not fully seat into the headers. Well it goes in 11/2 inches but is about one exhaust width from lining up with the muffler when bolted up against the transmission. I'm assuming it seats further then lines up reasonably with the muffler I just can't get it to go any further and am contemplating in cutting a little length off the elbow pipe so it can line up with the muffler.  1 1/2 inches is not much contact area but with the better style clamps it is probably sufficient?  Any input would be welcomed as I'm trying to put it back on the road sensibly

[Bryan Boyle]

Went with the exhaust system from rd enterprises.  The 47 exhaust system is very cool but I'm not at that point yet.  They said it is good for 150hp then had it ceramic coated once it arrived.  I removed the old cast and exhaust in pieces then replaced all the manifold studs along with new gaskets.  Bolted everything up with new manifold nuts and it seems like the exhaust elbow pipe will not fully seat into the headers. Well it goes in 11/2 inches but is about one exhaust width from lining up with the muffler when bolted up against the transmission. I'm assuming it seats further then lines up reasonably with the muffler I just can't get it to go any further and am contemplating in cutting a little length off the elbow pipe so it can line up with the muffler.  1 1/2 inches is not much contact area but with the better style clamps it is probably sufficient?  Any input would be welcomed as I'm trying to put it back on the road sensibly

The cross pipe is supplied a bit long, I had to cut mine down a bit to get things to line up and slip together nicely.  While the band clamps Ray sells are a step up from u-bolts, I used lap joint clamps (from the UK, but they came in less than a week... https://www.profusionexhausts.com/1-75-inch-45mm-stainless-steel-lap-joint-clamp-heavy-duty-exhaust-band-lp175ss/  ... no financial intereest, yadda yadda yadda) which really are the hot ticket.  Even though it wasn't really needed, I put a little exhaust pipe compound around the smaller pipe when I slid it in before clamping down.  Really makes a good joint, doesn't deform the pipe the same way a u-bolt would and has a lot more clamping power over a larger surface area than the single band clamp does.  All in all...a great solution (IMHO).

Check the clearance between the forward shift tube and the header.  Mine needed a bit of "percussive maintenance" to provide the requisite clearance that I was comfortable with and didn't interfere with the shift mechanism.  I also ended up with adjusting the center pivot to 2 7/8" center to center versus the book 2 3/4" just to give me a bit more...and all gears are there, and shift works fine.

And check to see if your rear clutch cable sheath ends on a frame-mounted bracket.  You may want to consider installing the engine-mounted clutch cable (oh heck, just ask Ray!) bracket after chopping off the frame bracket for the cable. Smoother clutch action, eliminates juddering (so far, for me anyway), and feels like it lowers the stiction/friction in the cable (since there are gentler bends in the cover to get the cable to where it needs to be).  Every little bit helps.

[dakazman]

   
 Lumbes
  Our tc and tcs experts ,as you can see are happy to find a solution to your concern.

We love pictures. Is your car on the registry? New or old hoarder?LOL

Dakazman
 

[Lumbes]

Thank you Bryan that was exactly what I was wondering about.  I figured someone from here had the RD exhaust system and would recall if cutting was necessary.  I cut off some length on the elbow pipe and fit it all together.  Not kidding about the exhaust clamps on the link above. Those look amazing and will be ordering some tonight.  Haven't taken it out for a test ride but clearances are tight with the shift tube and headers.  I'll likely follow your lead and thread the shift pivot bolt out some. Not touching but will see if the same percussive maintenance on the headers will be needed as well.  Also noticed that the clutch cable is in fact mounted to the engine block so I am lucky the PO had that taken care of.  I am noticing the clutch cable is now being slightly pushed out by the new headers but am thinking the mounting plate that is attached to the block can just be tweaked to give the cable enough space.
Dakazman - I checked the registry and did not find my Europa.  I will have to add it.  Acquiring the Europa happened 2 years ago next month and it was purchased from Bring a trailer.  I've added 5k miles since ownership and am absolutely hooked.  The incredibly knowledgeable and friendly members of this forum are all godsends in my book.  Many many thanks to them.  Just the other week my computer went down (needs a new motherboard) so am currently using my phone.  Having issues shrinking the photos small enough to upload through my phone.  Wasn't an issue when working from the computer.  I will work towards uploading pictures referencing the car in a new thread to share with the community. 

[Lumbes]

Oh well I'm close to losing my mind.  Replacing the parking brake drum cables.  Took out the horseshoe uncrimped the ends put the horseshoe back in, put in the new drum cables by sliding through the slot in the chassis and fitted to horseshoe then zip tied the horseshoe.  Threaded on both 1/2 inch nuts and just failing miserably at reattaching the spring that is connected to the end of the tunnel.  Just not seeing how this part is suppose to be done.  Everything else was relatively easy and spent a chunk of time looking at methods on this forum but chances are I'm missing something obvious.  The car is lifted by a floor jack with minimal clearance underneath.  I'm able to crawl under and fit the new cable through the slot but beyond that I can't see myself being able to do anything else from that position.  I'm barely able to see where the spring attaches to the chassis and I think if i removed it from there that I would not be able to reattach it.  On a lift I could see me undoing the spring from underneath then reattaching the spring when it is free to the bolt that runs through the horseshoe.  Then possibly tying a string to the end that attaches to the chassis and fish it through the hole it clips onto and pull it on home. 
I just tried from in the tunnel looping a string around the spring front hook where it attaches to the rod and fished the string behind the horseshoe so pulling it would bring the string right in line with the rod but could not for the life of me handle that spring into the rod hole.  Any advice would be so appreciated.  I don't think I can find any peace until I attach this spring.   

[GavinT]

I haven't done this but what about releasing the handbrake cable from the forward reaction lever first? That should release all tension from the horseshoe arrangement.
Obviously tie a cord to the front end eye so it doesn't disappear into the tunnel.

[Lumbes]

Your saying be releasing that I can bring the rod and shoe in closer to the spring?  I'll look for that connection point and access.  Thanks for the input.

Current stage with the new cable and shoe fitted to the rod and the spring just barely visible

[GavinT]

Yes, that's what I mean.

This would probably mean releasing the bolt on the reaction lever because it's quite difficult to get that elongated cable loop over the lever's hook.
It's then possible to wrangle the reaction lever back into place to replace the bolt. I've done that in the past and was probably tackling the same issue.

For what it's worth, I used a single Nyloc nut instead of the two half-nuts which makes it easier to adjust down the line.

[Lumbes]

Can't thank you enough.  That was precisely what I was missing.  I removed said bolt shifted the whole assembly forward and attached the once before impossible spring.  It's all put back together and the parking brake is now locking up both rear wheels! 

[GavinT]

Great – glad it worked out.

[Lumbes]

I've been going through the workshop manual in preparation of well just about everything and as excited as I am to put more attention towards the engine all the front bushes in the suspension need replaced.  They are all cracked and likely the original set so replacement is certainly overdue.  Decided to stick with original style rubber bushes and replace the original shocks and coils with new Spax shocks with the reduced height coils.  I'll be using a spring compressor to fit the new coils but asking ahead of time to those who have done this, anything in particular that I should pay attention to or look out for that is not mentioned in the manual?  Or possibly an installation conflict that arises from switching to the adjustable Spax?  Going to jack up the front of the car tonight and spray pb blaster on every nut and bolt that will be undone so just beginning the front suspension journey.  Thanks

[BDA]

It’s in the manual but a reminder: tighten suspension pivot nuts at ride height.

A simple spring compressor can be made out of a 1/2” rod about 3 1/2” long with 5/16” holes drilled near neither end. The rod goes through the bottom bush of the shock. Then use j-bolts hooked on the coils through the holes and tightened with nuts and washers to compress the spring. Here’s a brief write up on it with pictures as well as an alternative: http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=5298.0

[jbcollier]

Support the car properly on jack stands.

Remember that Europas are very light up front.  This makes it far too easy to knock the car off the jack stands so BE CAREFUL when prying, pushing or pulling on things.