new owner '74 TCS misc ?

[Lumbes]

Visited Quicksilver Racing Engines in MD yesterday and dropped off the lump.  Two formula fords being built from the ground up and a staggering number of blocks, cylinder heads, crankshafts etc that it was nearly a sensory overload.  This is the place for 4 cylinder engines to be reborn and rebuilt to any degree.  However, my eye was drawn to a Conventry Climax for an Elite which was cool to see disassembled.  The place is incredibly clean and just stunning to be honest.  I can't really compare it to any place I've been to before.  They just finished up with rebuilding a Lotus Twin Cam so I was able to take a look at it and he showed me the billing to give me a rough idea of what all can be involved.  I was very happy with everything I saw, and we talked about my build for a while, went through the parts I brought then did a tour of the building.  In the end I gave him a budget I had in mind and an amount I hope to not exceed along with a few criteria.  140 hp or more and for me to be able to use pump gas.  Told them to have some fun with it.  They said that shouldn't be a problem and to give him a couple days to test the block, head, and to come up with a quote.  I'll put 50 percent down and work begins.  They dyno all the engines they build so an engine dyno will be included in the quote.  I'll post updates as they come.  Still hoping to drive the car before 2024 on a mild December day but if not, then it will definitely be the first dry, snow free day of 2024.       

[BDA]

I remember Quicksilver when I was racing in the mid to late ‘70s. They were respected back then. That they build good engines is not a surprise to me but your description only raises my estimation of them. You could do a lot worse very easily and it would be very difficult to do much better. Let us know how happy you you are with the results. Love to see the dyno sheet!

[TurboFource]

Nice!

[cazman]

I am glad you were impressed. My motor had some "special" attention there, as I broke a rod that did some, at the time, unknown damage. Once I saw their internal capabilities to assess my bore, block, and crank, I knew I was in good hands. Its nice to have a shop that can do almost all advanced work in house. At worst, I needed a new block, crank, and rod. They were able to repair everything with only a replacement rod and since then the engine runs like a top!

[Lumbes]

Picked up the engine from Quicksilver Race Engines last Friday.  Here are a couple pictures of the rebuilt engine.  Still much to do but I nearly have all the parts ordered to finish this stage of project. 

Currently I have someone who really knows their way around the 365 working on rebuilding it and with any luck is only a few weeks out from being finished.

I had a shop pull the engine last year but I am no longer dealing with them being they know less than I do when it comes to working on the Europa.

I'll be installing the engine and transmission myself, with that I figured I should ask the community is there any problem with installing the engine now then fitting the transmission later once it's done?

Appreciate any advice/insight, thanks!

[Fotog]

Looks nice.  I can't advise about installation though.

[Richard48Y]

I do not have a TC but find aligning the transmission and bolting up much simpler out of the car, for every car I've ever had with the sole exception of a VW Bug.
Do support the engine from above while installing the mounts if possible.
If you fit the engine first having to get under the car to fit up transmission bolts is not fun.
Only three mounting points so not too difficult to set the whole assembly in place.
I've just changed out engine mounts on an S2 and found a couple of tricks that probably apply.
Put all the engine mount bolts in place but do not fully tighten until all three mounts are fitted.
Then tighten the mounts to the chassis before snugging up the bolts between the engine and mount.
To reach both ends of the bolts inside the box frame wrenches were nearly useless.
Using two sockets with one on a breaker bar and some extensions made it much easier.
I would say an air ratchet is indispensable.
YMMV.

[BDA]

I have taken the 365 from my car when it was "new." The engine was in, of course. It was a long time ago but I don't remember it being terribly difficult to get out or back in. IIRC, I jacked up the rear of the car and dropped it out the bottom. That being the case, JB's rear stand setup (box section steel piece cut out for the rear hoop and supporting either end with jack stands) or similar is good because you can use a floor jack to push the tranny toward the engine.

Unfortunately, I've never tried to put the engine and tranny in together so I can't say if Richard's method would work for you. IIRC, the 365 sits "inside" the rear hoop so it might be a good way of doing it. In fact thinking about it, it probably makes sense to bolt the engine and tranny together and try it. If it's better, it could be a lot better. Mating my NG3 to my engine in the car is a long fiddly, frustrating job and doing that on a bench or the floor where you have more control could make it a lot easier. If that doesn't work, you can install them separately.

[Lumbes]

Being that I still have more to do before mounting the engine to the chassis (need to order a new pressure plate. Studs, washers, lock nuts for engine bracket will arrive Monday, and fit the new aluminum swirl pot and radiator) I think I'm going to wait until the 365 is finished and back in my hands.  Thanks Richard and BDA, I like the idea of mating the transmission to the engine in a free and open space then dropping them into the car together.  I imagine with the cross beam removed along with the diagonal braces that it could be fitted from above with my crane and load leveler.  Like BDA just said, if that doesn't work I can install them separately.
Embarrassingly enough I can't recall how the fuel system was hooked up and am trying to figure out how it was.  Going to take a few pictures and upload them on here hoping to eventually make sense of it. 

[Kendo]

Are those Mikuni carbs on that engine? They, and the choke plate look like the kit I just got.

[BDA]

Yes, first take the cross member and diagonal braces.

Are you keeping your charcoal cannister and catch tank? If not, the plumbing is trivial (hoses from both tanks go to a 'T' and then into the fuel pump which then go to the carbs). Otherwise, the parts manual gives clues but not enough for me, sorry.

[Lumbes]

Yes, they are Mikunis and choke plate came from vintage performance developments.
No charcoal cannister or catch tank. 

[BDA]

I think I've read that the original plastic fuel tubing is very durable. I wouldn't know. I know that the original plastic 'T' between the carbs is responsible for more than a couple flaming Europas. I would replace it all with at least new good quality fuel hose and metal fittings and clamps and I'd make sure it's clamped down regularly and grommeted so there is no possibility the hose can chafe against the frame, engine, or body.

[Lumbes]

Will do.  Quicksilver replaced the carb T and the two fuel lines along with the clamps.  They look to be of good quality.  The rest of the fuel line and T's yeah...I'm going to call RD on Monday and see I can replace the rest with new.
In the picture below with crude illustrations I drew black lines representing fuel lines and orange T's representing the T's.  Is that about what I'm trying to achieve?

[Richard48Y]

When I removed the engine and transaxle from my car the body was still on the frame.
Not wanting to risk body damage I removed the engine cover, lifted the rear of the car on sturdy stands, and took it all out the bottom after removing the intake system.

Now my body is off the frame and drivetrain work is a snap.
I will refit the body after the drivetrain and suspension are nearly complete.

For your car I would still prefer an install from the underside as one unit, leaving the transmission mount off for more fore and aft room until it is nearly all in place.
There is just not a lot of space up top and paint/body repairs are expensive.
No matter how you do it reaching some of the bolts will be somewhat difficult, since you have nice paint some sort of cover to protect it will be a must.