Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Members Cars => Topic started by: rascott on Sunday,September 16, 2018, 09:36:21 AM
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what i call "a rescue?" continues.
it is registered and has seen some road tests with encouraging results, but is still mostly just a rolling shell.
only a couple of years behind "schedule", but...…
been playing with some colors just because.
so far the suspension seems fit, renault runs, and the gearbox functions, but it runs hot and i'm having electrical issues.
haven't figured out wiper arms for it yet.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3661.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3661.jpg.html)
it's pretty fast!
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It's a good start! That it runs is a big help. Good luck with all your future challenges!
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made some headway on cooling issues by a radiator rodout.
started experimenting more by driving to work and back.
all very encouraging, and i haven't hit or been hit. nice veiw of other peoples wheels.
i should take some pictures.
i should be making a list.
think i'll drive it to work tomorrow, and think about it.
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Glad to hear you are driving it. If you take a couple of photos, post some up for us.
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driving helps me decide how to proceed.
i've been trying to tune a 32/36 weber. running some bicycle cable for the throttle.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3697_2.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3697_2.jpg.html)
got the cooling system cobbled together. put a craig-davies pump inline and am cardboardpattering a way to close off the front of the chassis. the pump has a control w/temp sensor in the head. fan control is still in the radiator.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3694.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3694.jpg.html)
using a suzuki alternator.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3695.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3695.jpg.html)
made something to make it quieter.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3698.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3698.jpg.html)
most of these gauges don't work.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3701.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3701.jpg.html)
still wonder about this door...........
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3702.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3702.jpg.html)
it keeps getting a little better.
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It looks like you're making progress! I hear great things about the Craig-Davies water pumps and I a more modern alternator like your Suzuki alternator is a good addition.
It does look like your glove box puked a bunch of wire, though! ;D
Keep it up! You'll end up with a really nice ride soon!
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we will see about the pump. i am pleased, so far. the radiator rodding probably fixed most of my overheating issues.
that is one solid radiator! the radiator guy figured it was too small for anything. haha. like an oversized heater core.
i know where those wires go, but i gotta add some more before i can bundle them up for good.
i put some rubber around the doors, and may put the driver's door card on, to stop some rattling.
passenger seat is back in, but no riders yet.
my local autoparts hasn't helped re:wiper arm/blade parts. i'm wondering if mg or triumph or? may substitute?
think i'll drive it to work next week.
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It looks like your passenger door doesn't have a latch. What am I missing.
I'm glad your are driving it and enjoying it.
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this poor thing seems to have spent most of it's life in a bodyshop.
apparently it got painted after the door was installed.
currently, a bungee cord holds it closed.
the door handle and window gear are in it(motor works), and it has the latch ring on the door frame.
i don't think either door hinge is original, and the passenger one is loose/floppy.
i should start the hunt for a latch, and "plan" a door project.
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update on that suzuki alternator. had to get creative with a bracket to make that work.
not sure why it cares which direction it spins, but it does.....
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3771.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3771.jpg.html)
i have temporarily clipped a test light into the charge indicator circuit, so it can only be seen in the engine bay.
also, i had never driven at highway speeds, so i made a 150mi. roadtrip.
it took all day, and required many stops, but was fun when it was working right.
current front project is the righthand door.
i have gutted it, and am attempting to remove it,
i have resisted the sawsall.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3770.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3770.jpg.html)
got the bottom bushing nut(inside the door) loose, but the hinge pin seems frozen in it and rotates with the door.
the top nut refuses to loosen(yet), but the bushing is free on the pin.....
this may seem silly, but i have opened the body a bit.....
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3762.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3762.jpg.html)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3763.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3763.jpg.html)
not sure about what seemed to be some previous repairs that involved stuffing fibreglass to encase the ends of the hinge pin.
-dug it out.
hope i don't have to do the same thing. haha
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I used “mini bear claw” latches on mine. I had to build brackets to recess them into the door just a little and use a post striker instead of the stock loop. But they are less than $50 a pair nad are readily available. Worked great!
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i had to google those latches-
of course this is not a new thing, and one should learn something new every day!
i was able to get a replacement latch, via the lotus community in the north sf bay, and now have all the door hardware.
i used the latch as an excuse for the roadtrip. i intend to have a "new" door for the next one. no more bungee cords.
still haven't got the top inside bushing nut loose. have gained a glimpse of the top of that bushing, and made a tool to hold it, while i flail with a wrench inside. mabe the liquid wrench stuff needs more time.
somehow, i think that pin has to come out? i made big holes.
i am developing theories on how this fits the "manual".
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You need to cut 4" out of the hinge pin using progressively bigger drills up to 12.5mm, spray WD 40 in the top through the wheel arch hole, move the door backwards and forwards a lot to loosen the hinge pin in the bush, then use a punch to push the part of the pin in the top bush out, then the top of the door is free.
Drill the nut off the bottom bush using drills up to 12.5mm, and the door shell should come off the bottom of the pin.
The bottom pin can be punched through the bottom sill once the door is out of the way.
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I was “lucky” with the hinges. Since I started with 2 donor cars, I cut up the fiberglass on one car to end up with a good set of hinges, and cut up the hinges on the other car to leave the fiberglass intact. Good thing I could do that because neither car was giving up the parts willingly!
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if i get this right, the pin is kept in place with a cotter pin(?), and should drop out if it were free on the bushes?
this would fit a theory i've been forming.
a p o didn't use a cotter pin, but gunked up the hinge pin ends w/fibreglass- that kept them from moving anywhere.
these hinges are not real furry- i was hoping to avoid destroying them....
the "manual" makes it sound easy, but i knew it wouldn't be.
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Cut the pin at the top and bottom of the door. Remove the door. Now it is easy to get at things. You can buy replacement rod/tubing for the pin, no problem. If you can remove the adjustable bushings from the door then you can sleeve them if need be. Personally I would use the brass replacements from Banks but they are not cheap. RD makes SS replacements for a reasonable price.
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still haven't pulled out the sawsall.
found the bottom of the hinge pin is threaded and seems to accept a 5/16" bolt.
heard of this for later models-?
i am thinking mabe some slide hammer action can be added to the other forces i can apply.
i can almost see this working. haha.
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Use the sawzall. It seems drastic but you’ll probably resort to the sawzall in the end. Might as well save time and do it sooner rather than later.
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still haven't pulled out the sawsall.
found the bottom of the hinge pin is threaded and seems to accept a 5/16" bolt.
heard of this for later models-?
i am thinking mabe some slide hammer action can be added to the other forces i can apply.
i can almost see this working. haha.
Yep, that's standard and is the designated way to remove the pins in the Workshop Manual. It sometimes works but will only do so if, when you sit inside the car and watch the pin as you open the door, you see that the pin is stationary and the door is opening with the bushes moving on the pin. If the whole assembly moves, then it's hacksaw time.....
And despite sounding brutal, it really is the quickest way to remove the doors if the pin's stuck. The first time round I soaked mine in release fluid for days before starting the job and still needed to cut one side. The second time around with a stainless pin I used the slide hammer method on a bit of threaded bar.
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got the bottom bushing nut(inside the door) loose, but the hinge pin seems frozen in it and rotates with the door.
the top nut refuses to loosen(yet), but the bushing is free on the pin.....
Reading back through the thread, it sounds as though your odds of getting the hinge pin out with a slider hammer aren't good.
You really don't want to re-use the hinge pin. Do the future door remover a favour and replace it, and the rest of the hinge hardware, with something much more corrosion resistant.
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Cut through them. Life’s too short! Even after getting the hinges out I couldn’t get the pin out. It was almost as if it had been welded together.
Good luck. Serge did a episode on it on his restoration YouTube channel.
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i always get good advice here. many thanks.
i did resort to the sawsall.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3779.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3779.jpg.html)
was able to do it with 2 cuts- one in the middle and the other under the bottom bush.
pulled the top half out the hole i made in the top of the fender.
the nut on the bottom bush was free, so it came out easily(w/frozen pin piece).
the top bush nut is still frozen, but i split a washer so it would fit thru that "square" hole.
found some 1/2" cold roll at my local hardware that should replace the hinge, so if i can salvage these bushings...….
i will apply some grease upon reassembly.
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I would go with the r.d. stainless steel hinge kit. You get everything you need and it will never rust. After that, I'd go with Richard's brass hinge kit. I can't compare which one is better but I have Richard's kit and it's very good and has the advantage that you can take the door off the car and upon remounting it, the only adjustment needed is height - probably the easiest adjustment.
I would NOT use steel bar from the hardware store. It has none of the advantages of either and if it does get seized, there is less ability to get it out than the stock setup.
edit: cleaned up some typos
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I would NOT use steel bar from the hardware. It has none of the advantages of either and if it does get seized, there is less ability to get it out than the stock.
Definitely ! If you buy carbon steel rod then it'll start rusting as soon as the grease is squeezed out of the bushes and you'll still have to drill/tap the base for future removal or weld a nut on the end. At the very least buy some 300-series stainless 1/2" rod because at least that isn't going to rust. I went the 304 SS pin route and retained the OEM steel bushes, but that was only because the alternatives at the time were mild steel or mild steel... brass/non rusting bushes seem a much better idea if you can get them.
Before you re-assemble, check the aluminium bobbins in the bodywork for wear against a new 1/2" rod. If the door has been stuck for a while they tend to wear and if they need sleeving, it's better to find out before you spend ages getting that perfect door alignment !
Brian
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You can buy bronze bushings in various sizes. Easy to drill out and fit them. Given the inevitable neglect, I would still go with an SS pin.
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i see no signs this hinge assembly ever had any lubrication.
i maxed out my little 12ton arbor press and pressed the pin out of the lower bush. a bit scary when it let loose!
still haven't destroyed the top bush, but the nut hasn't moved. thought the torch would have helped, but not yet.
rust is just slow welding.
i shall keep my eyes open for some stainless material- i can see the advantage.
this is my practice door.
update today-
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3780.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3780.jpg.html)
ended up cutting the nut and surprised myself at the hardware store by finding a replacement, so i pinned the door back in place-just to see how well it might fit for real.
movement010619-
i have stripped all the red coating off of the door and treated it to some prime and some color. found yellow below the red, so this door was painted twice without a door latch?
i plan on stripping the red off the door opening, and giving it similar attention.
then figure how to install the latch...…….
the window framing has been scratched up a bunch, so i may end up treating/painting it.
mabe.
s'more010819-
more of "the lotus" is getting green. pinned the door as a way to hold it as things progress.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3786.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3786.jpg.html)
'gress011219-
repaired a broken mount tab on the window frame....
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3795.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3795.jpg.html)
think this will look better than the scratched "chrome". we will see.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3794.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3794.jpg.html)
transferred a doorlatch hole pattern to what looked like the right spot....
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3797.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3797.jpg.html)
-cutout what seemed to be in the way...… lot 'o bondo in there.....
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3800.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3800.jpg.html)
this might work.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3801.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3801.jpg.html)
addon011919-
weather and other life things have reduced playtime, but i have started experimenting with adjusting the door hanging and latch function. encouraging results, so far, but more adjustment experience(time) seems required.
it could be interesting to try some door weather rubber, as that will probably make it fit differently.
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Things a coming together. I would just say that normally the "latch" on the door is not adjustable but the "latch" on the door jamb is. If both of yours are adjustable, that may give you more flexibility but it may add another unwanted variable.
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bda-
a big variable(to me) was where to put the latch, but the tracing i had from a restoration project made it pretty close the first time.
never discount luck.
soon i will try the outside door handle.
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Trace it off the door you have and then flip it.
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I didn't think of it at the time, but the length of the links from the latch to the handle, at least, will probably be the determining factor in where to mount the latch once that is done as JB says, position of the latch needs to be replicated on the other door. In retrospect, that is an extra variable that can trip you up, but then if you don't have the original location, what else can you do.
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the rain+time has become time+showers, so i have made the door surround more colorful.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3828.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3828.jpg.html)
pinned the door back in place with my hunk of rod, and it fits o k, latches, and i can compensate for previous repairs.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_3829.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_3829.jpg.html)
still need to finish the color treatment to the door and fit the rest of the latch pieces, window,....
evolving a "finish".
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finally got enough green on the door. also got the latchin'/lockin'/doorhandle functions figured out.
next is to re-gut the door...…. and finalize that door hinge pin.
just checkin' in.
tried posting pictures, but they are way too big- not sure why.
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(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0059_1.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0059_1.jpg.html)
think i figured out the picture thing.
also mabe figured an assembly process to install the quarterglass and the window frame.
gonna try it again with some sealing/bedding stuff.
a bit concerned about how the frame and doorshell meet below the window.
the "rescue" continues.
addon0609
took it back apart, added the channel/wiper pieces.
that took some learning that will help next time. only broke 2 clips(had 5 "installed") before i realized i was putting them on wrong.
window fits smoothly- kinda snug.
thinking about the rivits-
smore0615
fiddled around and got final(?)install of the windows, added the motor, found good function!
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Sounds like a very productive "rescue" operation! :beerchug:
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Glad you got it worked out!
Dakazman
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hmm. picture size problem again
this was a big deal, to me. the bungeecord doorlatch was a bit sketchy.
and to have almost finished the door hinge- still need to cut the door pin- is also satisfying.
think i'll drill a hairpin hole like the "manual" seems to indicate.
also added to the wirenest and put the alternator fail lamp in the dash, so the suzukidonor charging system is completely cobbled together.
54/1846 is california legal, and will be seeing some commute action again soon.
i have some reasonable condition door covers, but don't like those clip fasteners. considering threadserts/fasteners? mabe.
oh, yeah. door seal. still have to refit that...….
mabe i'll have a beer, and give it a coat of lookin' at...
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Yes , have a beer. Don’t work on the car after that.,,, but take it all in.
Are you taking pictures with your phone? Have you selected a picture and tried to email yourself?
If you do the phone will ask what size do you want to send. Sometimes it say original, small, medium, large. Sometimes it asks in kB or mb with a number. Try it . After it sent to your email select it and save to photos . That is the one you post here. You did post some great pics so you’re doing good.
Dakazman
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Your making good progress. I try to figure the one or two things I want to get done in a day (how ever many hours are allotted) and stay focused on that. Your much more satisfied when you get things done and walk away then struggling to get a list to get done and rushing which usually means screwing something up. And the ultimate sense of accomplishment is having a beer at the end of the day admiring your achievement while deciding what to do next.
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(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0106_1.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0106_1.jpg.html)
finally got around to finalizing the door pin.
the weldable steel cold rolled stock that i've been playing with seemed to do fine with where "the lotus" lives, so i made it 15" long and drilled a hole for a hairpin.
fitting went very well.
mor070719
put some new door seal material on.
removed the brake/clutch pedal assembly i had made, for some modifications.
no test runs 'till that's back.
wel071319
slowly morphing the assembly... haha- certainly a handbuilt affair.
it could work...…
nxtday071419
(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0108.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0108.jpg.html)
i can now see if i improved function. there is beauty in function.
hmmm071619
started some road testing by using "the lotus" as a commuter car.
pedal assembly is a better fit, and will work for now, but my right foot keeps hanging on the steering shaft connector sleeve thingy.
need to make a speedometer work, so i don't get a ticket...….
l8tr072619
trying to smooth out engine performance, and am having doubts about the "manual" again...….
it says the distributor should rotate counter clockwise("seen from above"), but seems to turn clockwise...…
also, i am not finding any clear marks on the flywheel indicating 180* off tdc, so setting tdc for cyliders #3 is a bit of a guess?
hmmmm…….
back in 1969, i had some experience with an r-16, but don't remember having this confusion.
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I always forget that the #1 cylinder is at the back of the engine (Transaxle end). Using a wooden dowel in the spark plug hole helps to find TDC of all the pistons.
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The distributor rotation is wrong in the manual -- it's a bit of a famous erratum. You need to know BTDC to adjust the valves? Simply get the valves rocking on it's firing order opposite. The firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Adjust 1 when the 4's valves are rocking, 3 when 2's valves are rocking, etc, etc. Put it in 4th gear and push the car back and forth to turn the engine. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER USING THE CAMSHAFT PULLEY NUT !!!!
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The distributor rotation is wrong in the manual -- it's a bit of a famous erratum. You need to know BTDC to adjust the valves? Simply get the valves rocking on it's firing order opposite. The firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. Adjust 1 when the 4's valves are rocking, 3 when 2's valves are rocking, etc, etc. Put it in 4th gear and push the car back and forth to turn the engine. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER USING THE CAMSHAFT PULLEY NUT !!!!
Thanks JB, Sounds like I need to put that in my manual.
Nice work Sandman!
Dakazman
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thanks for the replies and tips.
i am checking valve clearances, and am expecting the valve lash specs in "the manual" are correct, even if the distributor turns clockwise.
i had used the method described when i first started the little renault, and wanted to confirm all was good.
pulled the plugs too looksee and do a compression check as well, so the dowel trick will be simple enough insurance.
i lift the right wheel and turn w/wrench, 'cause i'm too lazy to push!
think there was a pulley to look at on the r-16.
i remember thinking of marking 180* on the flywheel when i had it off, but didn't......
thanks again!
wonsagan072719
with renewed confidence, i reset the valves, and played with setting dwell.
"manual" indicates a point gap 0.016-0.019", but a dwell> 63*+_3*.
the gap is considerably less than 0.016 to get that dwell...…..
seems to run well enough to street it some more.
i need to try some different instruments. glowshift were inexpensive, but most don't seem to work.
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"Dwell" readings are relative to the number of cylinders. The meter should have different scales or a correction chart for various engine cylinder numbers.
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I was cleaning some parts today and found the TDC marks on the bell housing, (see pic) went to the engine stand and sure enough mark on flywheel lines up right on the mark. This is on the 821-30 engine.
I don’t know if a cross flow has this since the flywheel isn’t keyed.
Dakazman
I modified this statement. I checked my 843 flywheel and it is marked with a deep cut line . I do not have a crossflow bell housing to see if it is stamped.
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"Dwell" readings are relative to the number of cylinders. The meter should have different scales or a correction chart for various engine cylinder numbers.
i was wondering @that dwell spec.- had thought something like 50* - that seems in the point gap range listed...…..?
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dakazman,
your bellhousing looks like new.
mine is kinda oxidizedwhiteish, with similar markings.
i'm sorry i hadn't marked the flywheel when i could, think it would be convienent.
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Can you post a photo of your dwell meter? I have conversion charts.
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Can you post a photo of your dwell meter? I have conversion charts.
(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0110.jpg) (https://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0110.jpg.html)
it is selectable for # of cylinders......
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I googled the instructions. Did you set the number of cylinders to 4 when using the dwell function?
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dakazman,
your bellhousing looks like new.
mine is kinda oxidizedwhiteish, with similar markings.
i'm sorry i hadn't marked the flywheel when i could, think it would be convienent.
My flywheel does have a deep cut in it . I just didn’t link it with timing or it may not be.... Now that I’m learning and observing, reading it just makes sense to check it out and turn the engine one revolution and see if it lines up with TDC.
Dakazman
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tdc mark on the flywheel.
meant to mark 180* off to assist valve lash adjusting.
obviously not necessary, i just find convenient….
(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0111.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0111.jpg.html).
like i said- your parts are much cleaner!
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I googled the instructions. Did you set the number of cylinders to 4 when using the dwell function?
i appreciate the question.
monkey'd a bit this am, just to be sure i hadn't been too much of a bozo.
i feelerd the point gap to 0.016" and get a dwell @40*.
at 63*, the gap is much smaller.....
when i first got this instrument, i found that it boots up as 2cyl, so that setting has to be made every time i use it.
mabe i'm looking at something wrong. doesn't seem all that different than my old vw(s), but that was a long time ago, and they weren't french.
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I use a dwell meter on distributors where you can adjust the gap externally (Delco fit one). Otherwise I just set the gap with a gauge feeler.
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i keep on playing...…..
changed out the carburetor. was trying to jet a weber32/36, but was not happy.
put a weber32/32 on and got better results.
now it's smoother, and still very quick, and i still need to work on my instrument problems.
good enough to start the commute runs, next week.
timing ideas?
my ducellier has been converted to mechanical advance only...….
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I usually set my timing to 34° all in and let the base timing fall where it may. I climb long passes and have no desire to hole a piston. If you are mostly short run, you could go a bit higher. Keep an ear out for pinging and knock it a degree or so if it does.
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thanks for the timing thoughts.
i am trying to decide what noises are connected to where, and everything seems to rattle, but "the lotus" is getting me to work&back, as i decide what to try and "fix" next.
needs a defroster in the morning.
upd8081819
changed kinda burned points, set gap w/0.017" feeler, experimented with timing by feel, drove around.
working on "fixing" the way the engine cover opens- we'll see how that goes....found another excuse to drive it somewhere....
had to fill it with more gas, so i can get to work in the morning. great fun.
s'mor091419
pleased to be able to change radius arm bushes without big hassel……
found left one mounted "backwards" w/rusty bolt, washers.
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Now you need to do a 4 wheel alignment. Pay particular attention to the rear toe and thrust angle.
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Now you need to do a 4 wheel alignment. Pay particular attention to the rear toe and thrust angle.
check on that.
perhaps the reversed bushing was compensating for something.
this unit has had major rear end repair, seems to have a newer right radius arm, and the left shows signs of repair.
onceagain 091819
re-learning gas tank removal. fuel gauge stopped working. i suspect the sender has fritzed. mabe the float has sunk....
tagon092019
got the tank out. seems it has continued to corrode- when i popped a paint bubble, it was full of gas.
i guess the sender is less of a problem.
(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0176.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0176.jpg.html)
site of a "repair" that has failed....
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Those aluminum gas tanks are sure nice!
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Those aluminum gas tanks are sure nice!
i agree.
this tank was repaired in two spots. the fail is at one of those stamped "ribs", and i have removed the patch.
it doesn't seem to be a rust issue- more of a small break in the rib, and i will try another patch.
"the lotus" budget would prefer a less expensive solution, if possible, and it could be fun.....?
also- the float has fluid in it. i don't think enough to sink it, and the sender seems functional, so mabe it's a wire issue.
any clever float replacement ideas? somehow this thing must leak, but i see no signs of a hole in it.
(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0183.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0183.jpg.html)
havnfun110619
managed to repair(so far) the fuel tank, pulled the aftermarket fuel gauge that had failed-reinstalled original, started test drives to work, replaced ignition points, condenser, and coil(something in there seemed to overheat), and took a nice long drive in the country.
quite pleased with myself.
colorin'111119
been doin' a little "bodywork". none of this is at the quality i've seen on this forum, but …….
kinda treating "the lotus" like my boat. used bilgecoat on the undersides of the boot lid and engine cover.
still have ideas on making the engine cover open backwards- experimenting with some hinges- with encouraging results.
(https://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0195_1.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/rascott_2008/media/IMG_0195_1.jpg.html)
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What is your thinking with the back opening engine cover?
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To find the fuel sender float leak, drop the float in recently boiling water. Might be possible to seal the hole with a dab of epoxy. New senders are available.
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A Ford Mustang brass float is the same. I ended up using a gas tank sealer on my tank after welding two spots only to have a new one start leaking a month later.
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What is your thinking with the back opening engine cover?
i have been tinkering away on this little rescue project, and got tired of working under the cover.
it was much easier with the cover removed, but that was also a pia.
currently i have crudely attached a couple of hinges to the rear, as a "proof of concept", and am pleased to have much better access to the engine compartment.
i have some thoughts of some articulating hinges that may lift the cover before it hinges back- we will see how that may work...….
i recognize this may be seen as heresy to those doing full restorations. my apologies.
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Another option is to use the stock hinges but use hair pin clips as the hinge pins. Makes it super easy to re & re the cover.
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thanks for the float tips, and the fuel tank situation.
so far my tank leak repairs have been successful, but i am keeping an eye on it.
the level sender ohms fine, no signs of a hole in the float(except the fluid in it!), and it functions with the original fuel gauge.
the aftermarket gauge only worked for a couple of days....
i would not recommend glowshift gauges. bought a set(+some replacements)- few still work.
mabe it's just me?
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If there is fluid in the float, there's a hole/crack.
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been driving the lotus around a bit, just to get some exersize.
seems predictable enough for local use, and i'm starting to put some time at making it easier to drive, and mabe more comfortable.
i keep moving the original(?) radiator fan around in my shop. perhaps somebody is looking for one. i made the motor run, and the framework looks salvageable, but it's kinda loud and vibrates. probably because the fanblade was used to shred something.....
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0323.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/rascott_2008/p/499f59db-d54e-4d27-b842-7e52b481e550)
i hate throwing stuff out, but am sure i won't use it. i could put it in a box.
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still a work in progress, but it's on the road. been using it as my parts chaser, unless the parts are for it.....
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0331.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/rascott_2008/p/5e5c7df4-da7e-4b3f-97bf-ab49f63a6f50)
been making some adjustments to the suspension to find better ride, still trying to get a speedo to work, much wiremess to corral, still happy with most function.
i'm considering moving the battery into the front, 'cause the spare tire won't fit anymore, 'cause the electric pump is now in the way...…
finally got that plumbing finished, for now.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0329.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/rascott_2008/p/fccdb40b-9803-489a-a4b5-4058d047cebf)
thinking of putting the spare here.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0328.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/rascott_2008/p/0dd411bf-6979-45b8-a172-3b243111eab8)
making more green to the body, finally got the closing plate closing the gap, and have found that the "closing panels" in the front boot make it run cooler on the road. made some cardboard "templates", and was impressed with the difference.
no changes to that backward opening engine cover mock-up, but am glad i started it. one of these days i'll put more thought into that.
trying to decide how to run battery cable from the front- currently the only path is thru the right fenderwell, but mabe there is a better way?
moving right along...
still looking for the right box for that fan......
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Great that you're driving your baby, rascott! Clicking on your pictures (actually touching them on my iPad, maybe it would work on my computer) didn't give me a bigger picture so you may want to look into that.
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hmmm....
i see only a blank photobucket page when i click on them.
wonder what that's about.
thnx 4 looking/ letting me know.
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the lotus has been making frequent little parts runs.
ended up putting the battery down behind the passenger seat.
lost another electric oil pressure gauge(#3), so i ran the copper tube and installed a more foolproof one.
still don't have a speedometer, and it still runs hotter than i feel it should.
i have a radiator from a mr2 that may replace the original.
i have been suspicious of the efficiency of the original.
got it running rather well, but still have no freeway cruising.
pleased enough with the backwards opening engine compartment to add some hood pins(and a pair up front).
the rescue continues.
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You can get an aluminum radiator on eBay for as little as $125. I tried to provide a link but it was ridiculously long. Just search for “lotus Europa radiator” and you’ll find some. One I saw was even in the US!
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just a touch, for the new year.
"the lotus" continues to make runs around town, and continues to morph into a more confident driver.
the miata radiator has solved the heating oddities i was having, finally got a speedometer that i believe, and did some more circuit neatening.
it still makes me smile.
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Great news! :beerchug:
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found a wiper switch, but it still needs mounting.
has delay, hi/low, and will run a wash pump.
made me smile when the blades parked.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_E0709.JPG?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds) (https://app.photobucket.com/u/rascott_2008/p/fadb10fb-045a-4304-a8cf-a9d2ff72067d)
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i took "the lotus" on a 300+ mile adventure.
things were working well for the first 20 or so miles, and i was having a great time on a nice mountain road, but after reaching the summit realized that my charging system wasn't working anymore....
ran on what was left in the battery to an auto parts store(o'reilly), where they gave me a new battery and located a new alternator.
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0888.JPG)
this added @2hrs to my trip, but i was pleased that the parts were warrantied and available.
the rest of the run was trouble free.
the cooling system worked well also- my toy mr2 radiator/fan/waterpump cobble performed wonderfully.
i am glad i had used this suzuki alternator- much easier to source than one for a lotus(?).
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my radiator.....
(https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/nn56/rascott_2008/IMG_0885.JPG)
the rescue continues, and is great fun.
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Glad to hear everything went well (or most everything anyway). I would have been concerned about your radiator and electric water pump and that behaved flawlessly so I'd say that was a big win!!! :beerchug:
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Just love the radiator swap. have you opened up the area in front of the left wheel to get even more air flow? That wiper switch looks great, I am installing an electric washer pump. Where did you source the switch?
Sandy
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sandy- cole hersee #75600-4 12vdc.
i got it thru a local auto parts, but i expect marine supply would also work.
note that the switch part is a 2" cube, so don't do what i did, and make sure you have the room(i bored the hole first).
thanks for the radiator comment.
i still have the original radiator, but i think it needs recoring. this mr2 radiator fit where the spare would no longer fit ('cause i like the waterpump),and was much more efficient.
i considered a cutout in the left well, but added some foam air dams to force most of the air thru the radiator, figuring it would have to use the existing opening. so far good enough, but i may revisit.
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considerations from the road trip.....
the little renault motor could use an overhaul. i believe it to be original and never opened. it used a little oil, but that seems to be more leak than burn- used @1/4 qt.
there is a coolant leak where attempts to repair a broken manifold stud seems to have poked into a water gallery.
it otherwise runs well enough, and i finally figured the weber 32/36 jetting to make it smooth and responsive.
i will revisit the pedal assembly, to gain some foot room, and plan to service the rear axles and rear brakes.
the transmission works great.
a windscreen defroster would be nice- currently the hot air from the front will clear things once it's warmed up and driving. i have blocked most of the openings into the cockpit because of the heat problem. i see no way for ambient air to ventilate anything, it's only air that has come thru the radiator. this seemed to be the case with the original radiator, but seems worse with the way i have it now. perhaps the mr2 radiator is a mistake, and i should try again.
it is still mostly a shell on wheels, and needs seat refurbishment and other interior treatment.
i will continue to play with "the lotus". great fun!
richard
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Congratulations on your road trip and your successes! :beerchug:
The rest is part of the fun IMHO. Enjoy developing your baby!