Another S2 adventure, 742R, Carnival red and "Running".

[Richard48Y]

"New" used blower motor arrived today.
Now to test it and do a bit of clean up.
EDIT: Runs fine, so a change of brackets and good to use.

[Richard48Y]

On stands, wheels off for painting and new tires.
Chassis does not look "New" but is OK, no rust out visible.
Some flaking paint but that is relatively simple to fix.

[Richard48Y]

Just realized we do not have a specific body-paint topic here.

About finished stripping the engine cover for repair and paint prep.
The repairs are a bit of extra work since the last person to paint it applied a thin layer of Bondo® to the entire underside.
The soda blaster removed that very well but used more Blasting Soda than I would have liked. $1.00 per pound in fifty pound bags.
It was not as effective on the top side, whatever paint was used is tough.
It also shrugged off Clean Strip paint remover without effect.
Too bad it was also flaking and cracking in several spots.
But I found that it is a bit brittle so a single edge razor removed it pretty quickly while leaving most of the primer/sealer.
Whatever High-Build primer was used had poor adhesion to the fiberglass in spots and did not prevent spider cracks eventually coming through.
Where I have removed paint appears too smooth, the paint is not really bonded well.
So I guess this gets stripped to bare 'Glass.
If shipping were not so expensive a new rear deck would make more sense.
When this one was laid up the Gel-Coat was too heavy on the corners and it has shattered over time.
I will fix it to better than new but it will be a slow job.

[Kendo]

When I started stripping my TCS, I swore off Bondo, and scraped off literal pounds of it from various bad PO repairs. I mixed milled glass fibers into resin for a more fiberglass filler, which works great. Then I found Bondo Glass, which is resin with milled fibers already mixed correctly. The stuff also works great, sands easily, cures in 30 minutes, so I can continue the same day. But, I haven’t painted it and lived with it. Does it crack off if the body is bumped by a cluefor’s door for instance? So, for more exposed repairs, I covered the BGlass repair area with veil, as a more continuous sheet of glass. For your over gel coated edges, you might Bondo Glass, then cover with veil.

I also found a grey layer that laughed at the Safest Stripper. I think it was something Lotus used, but never identified it.

[Richard48Y]

First of the repairs laid up.
Star cracks and breaks near the hinges.
This should stabilize the breaks enough to work the bottom side.

[Richard48Y]

As usual it was not Lucas at fault.
A white wire that looks to have been scabbed in runs to the red/black of the radiator fan.
Seems someone wired the fan to be on anytime the ignition is on.
But the fan is nearly completely seized, it is the original, complete with backward blade.
Anyone need an original fan for their concourse car? 
It can probably be fixed.
For now disconnecting the incorrect wire is the answer.
The headlight trick worked pretty well.

[Richard48Y]

Got the fan to work.
Of course it was wired backward and now I am unsure if it is actually original as it has a plastic blade.
In any case the blade is clearly shaped wrong for max efficiency.
To work best it wants to be a puller.

[Richard48Y]

I know I opened the passenger door at least once before.
But now I have joined the "Opening a stuck door" club.
I got the inside latch loose but pulling the rod does nothing.
Now trying to carefully remove the door card.

[Richard48Y]

Attempts at powder painting the stock wheels in original silver failed.
So now they are "Chrome" and it does look good.
One issue with powder painting is that you do not get to fill any pitting and it does show when finished.

[Bryan Boyle]

Attempts at powder painting the stock wheels in original silver failed.
So now they are "Chrome" and it does look good.
One issue with powder painting is that you do not get to fill any pitting and it does show when finished.

My powder coat guy filled in the major pitting with weld and then ground down before coating.  Looks fine to me.  Did the same on 693R, and they turned out just fine.

Just getting back (when I get back to PA...) a set of steel wheels; going to go retro on the TCS with the OEM steelies and a set of NOS hub caps I've been hoarding for almost ever.

[Richard48Y]

Experimented with fans today.
Ran an original R16 fan, pulls air decently but only gets louder while pushing almost no air when reversed to push.

Tried out the bulky fan that came with the car and it is pretty much the same story but pushes a little more air.
Both are very doubtful for Nevada summers.
I am back to looking for a source for the Mercedes fans that were recommended.

[Richard48Y]

Happy with compression test results.

[Richard48Y]

Engine cover is finally fully stripped of all old primer.
Soda blasting worked very well and I am sure the gelcoat is no longer slick.
In the pic above those bare spots are where the old primer did not adhere well.
They are also where it seems the gelcoat may never have been sanded, still absolutely slick and shiny.
Of course getting the last of the primer off revealed more Bondo® to rework.

[Richard48Y]

Engine cover is finally ready for primer or veil.
I would prefer veil despite the extra work as it should take care of any exposed fibers pretty much permanently.

[dakazman]

Hopefully finding out what is drawing 30A when the key is turned on will be simpler.
No smoke, just a major draw even without engaging the starter.
And the starter does not work from the key either.

  Do you here the solenoid engage at all with the ign switch?
Dakazman