Another S2 adventure, 742R, Carnival red and "Running".

[Richard48Y]

My buddy bought 742R, the red car recently listed here from So Cal.
After going through the "Heck" of arranging transport, running the gauntlet of "Brokers" it will be delivered to me next week.
Running car needing a complete service, paint, tires, bumper chroming, and a few small missing parts.
I will rebuild the Dellorto and do the rest of the service items.
I will also do any needed fiberglass repairs before sending it to paint.
So in less than a month I will finally get to drive an S2 Europa, just not mine!
I will post progress here as it occurs.

[Richard48Y]

Looking to confirm 1970 or 1971 manufacture?
Tried the knowledge base but it is down.
Another source?

[BDA]

From the registry, it looks like '70 (http://lotus-europa.com/regs2.html).

[Richard48Y]

Survived the trip to So. Cal. and back.
Still have to get it unloaded from the truck but that is tomorrows task.
Hoping the spare holds air as the RF does not.
Today I will confirm which Dellorto it has and make a list of other obvious needs to shop for.
Do we know a source for an original muffler in the US?
Need not be stainless.

[Bryan Boyle]

Survived the trip to So. Cal. and back.
Still have to get it unloaded from the truck but that is tomorrows task.
Hoping the spare holds air as the RF does not.
Today I will confirm which Dellorto it has and make a list of other obvious needs to shop for.
Do we know a source for an original muffler in the US?
Need not be stainless.

RD has OEM mufflers (I know, because I gave him mine...), but they are NOT cheap.  May be better, unless you're stickler for originality, to get a new downpipe and have a muffler shop gin something up.  That's what I did....and it worked out ok.

[Richard48Y]

Doing assessment of what parts and work will be needed to make it a driver.
Warnerford intake and Dellorto DHLA-40, DHLA is to be rebuilt.
Dual circuit MC already fitted so I will not have to make new lines.
Damage to the rear deck lid, someone let the wind take it into the rear of the roof, obvious from the crack location. Just cracked at the edge so not while being towed backward. Bigger issue is that the rear edge has warped upward.
Spare tire is missing so I am looking for one original rim in good shape.
Would like to confirm which PerTronix kit is correct.

[Richard48Y]

Off the truck and on the ground.
Got it inside and on wheel dollies so I may move it around.
Finally getting a better look, found a crack in the very upper right corner of the windshield. 
I will be rearranging some engine compartment lines to tidy up.
Lots of details to be cleaned up.
Closing plate is in place so I have not been able to examine the frame head yet.
So Cal car so hoping for a happy outcome.

[Richard48Y]

First order of business was to remove all the dead leaves and rat dung from the engine compartment, frunk was not so bad, no vents.
Why are cars always parked under trees?

Next was removing the rear deck lid for repair.
Somewhere along the way one of the "Pro" car movers had to have leaned it up against the back of the roof, in the wind. 
Confirmed by the location of the break.
Also cracked along almost the entire length of both sides at the corner line.
So this will be a chore but maybe stronger than original when I am done.
I think I will also add some sort of limit straps to prevent it happening again.
Seems there should be a prop-rod from the factory.

[Richard48Y]

Working on the engine cover today.
I now realize why the cracks along the edge extend so far.
Seems the top surface and edges were made separately then bonded together.
The joint is not particularly strong to begin with and if the side is "Resin rich", AKA too much Gel Coat and not enough cloth it becomes very brittle.
This may be the worst chore of the entire car.

Pulled the fuel drain and nothing came out, poked a wire up and felt some resistance.
But still no fuel, thought it was supposed to have some.
Next is to have a look with my bore-light.
Suspecting a new alloy tank is likely.

[Richard48Y]

Another day another frustration.
I have never seen another Dellorto that had the mixture screws below the surface of the main body.
Of course this one has apparently been wet and the screws are seized.
Also made of brass, so too soft.
Going to be interesting sorting this out, very open to suggestions!

Hopefully finding out what is drawing 30A when the key is turned on will be simpler.
No smoke, just a major draw even without engaging the starter.
And the starter does not work from the key either.

[jbcollier]

Disconnect the ground at the battery and hook up a headlight bulb between them.  Turn on the ignition and the headlight will be very bright.  Now go along disconnecting circuits until you find the problem and the bulb goes out or dim.

30 amps is a lot.  I would start at the alternator.  Might be a bad diode.

[jbcollier]

Clean the carb thoroughly.  Put it in the oven/BBQ and heat it to 250°F or so.  Use oven mitts and gently try the screws.  Still stuck?  Apply a release agent to the screws overnight and repeat the process.

[Richard48Y]

The headlight trick is new to me, I will try it.
Carb is soaking in penetrant.
I will mount it in my Vertical Mill to hold it for drilling before an "Easy-out" attempt.
Fearing I may have to replace the main body.

[Gary t]

Any 12 volt lamp (not a led) will work for this method.  Can be a huge time saver.

[jbcollier]

It works best with a high wattage bulb if you are looking for a significant draw.