Reassembling my crossflow

[RonPNW]

Califkid-66     My crossflow engine has been sitting for about 25years. "Ran good when parked"  I'm doing an inspection and clean up before starting. My hope is that the compression and other checks are good enough to just install and run.

For me the ignition has always been a pain and never seemed spot on so I'm adding a crank trigger and going with the MegaJolt system  (https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte-mk2_crank_fired_ignition/  I have no connection with the company). Other vintage car users claim easier starts, smoother idle and more power. At the least I get rid of the points, distributor and other misc. garbage.

Also, when parked, it used twin DCOE45's that I could never get to idle smoothly but where great near WOT. Pretty rough in traffic. I'm adding an Air/Fuel gauge to the dash and think some quality time can sort out those issues but it does seem over carburated.



I was curious as to what you planned to use for the ignition system and carburation.    (spell check converts carburation to carbonation.)

Thanx
Ron

[jbcollier]

Megajolt looks interesting but I would suggest you consider the 123ignition as well.  The Tune and Tune+ versions function pretty much like the Megajolt in programability and it is all in a small convenient package.

The 45DCOEs were what they were delivered with on the R12G.  That base-setting would be a good place to start.  A/FR meters have pretty much revolutionized tuning.  Careful not to go too lean.  These engines were not designed to handle it.

[califkid_66]

great advice JB

as for my part i’m playing with my wedge much simpler than the crossflow for me but still giving me a hard time running all original parts except for the carburetor witch i changed for a weber.
 For my crossflow i am still undecided many factors to consider like the head as been shaved about 60 thousand  so that’s a lot but should be ok i have to get parts but since my engine is sort of an hybrid it is more complicated to get all the parts i would have to measure every part before ordering
for carburetors my dad used to race a seven at le circuit in mont tremblant and i remember he used to change jets depending on where he raced altitude and all i live in the mountains high altitudes go to city low altitudes don’t know how much it would affect fuel ratio ,for ignition jb as a 123 ignition for sale at a really decent price but im looking and trying to learn from others experiences
ther is a guy on another europa forum he built a crossflow had twin webers couldn’t get it to run right even with a tuner so he went efi  so for now im just watching and learning
this is is setup

Link Atom ECU
Mitsubishi Magna 1992 Distributor with the base of the shaft turned down for the 16ts head (minor work) for cam and crank signal
10.25:1 pistons
forged rods
head flowed and ported
bigger valves (40 and 42 from memory)
jenvey heritage 45 throtle bodies with 350cc injectors
bosch fuel pump
TPS tune but with MAP as  an adjuster

but i think in your case Ron i think if you get 123 ignition it would be simpler and cost less
and  no frabrication and it would remove one of the variables that make an engine run bad if you engine is in decent condition then you only have to clean up the carbs the jetting should be ok since it’s already assembled must have ran before
 please keep us updated thanks!

[jbcollier]

My spare 123tune is gone now.  I switched to a tune+ as I'm not a windows person.

Highly tuned race engines are very sensitive to changes in air density.  It was very common to switch jets based on local temp and humidity.  There are charts for this on the internet.  However, street engines are nowhere near as highly tuned and, therefore, not as fussy about what they are imbibing.  I drove my crossflow up to 5000ft and down to 0ft with no issues at all.  I deliberately stuck to a modest-street cam as I was looking for drivability over ultimate hp.  Why spend thousands to get 160 hp when the local soccer moms can still kick your ass with their 300hp mini-vans?

[dakazman]

     Soccer moms 😂😂.
  So true , and ...don’t piss one off...
Dakazman

[MRN I J]

Califkid-66     My crossflow engine has been sitting for about 25years. "Ran good when parked"  I'm doing an inspection and clean up before starting. My hope is that the compression and other checks are good enough to just install and run.

For me the ignition has always been a pain and never seemed spot on so I'm adding a crank trigger and going with the MegaJolt system  (https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/megajolte-mk2_crank_fired_ignition/  I have no connection with the company). Other vintage car users claim easier starts, smoother idle and more power. At the least I get rid of the points, distributor and other misc. garbage.

Also, when parked, it used twin DCOE45's that I could never get to idle smoothly but where great near WOT. Pretty rough in traffic. I'm adding an Air/Fuel gauge to the dash and think some quality time can sort out those issues but it does seem over carburated.



Ron, looking at your photo it looks like your Webers are mounted solidly which is against all advice especially on 4 cyl engines which might be why it idles poorly, correct me if I'm wrong.

I was curious as to what you planned to use for the ignition system and carburation.    (spell check converts carburation to carbonation.)

Thanx
Ron

[RonPNW]

It must be the picture. It has the standard very large O ring and springs under the mounting nuts style of flexible mounting system. There is also a rubber isolated brace under the carburetors.  It never seemed that effective but I don't know of any other options.

Ron