Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: EuropaJPS on Wednesday,January 28, 2015, 12:26:13 AM
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Hi all!
Just a quick post to say hi as I was pointed in this direction from lotustalk.
I live in the UK and I currently own JPS #83 that I have just had restored by Richard at Banks Europa.
I inherited the car from my dad who owned the car since 1978, so it has been in the family for most of its life!
Anyway, I won't go on, but just wanted to introduce myself!
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Hi, and :Welcome: from another UK owner.....
Having seen some of Richard's work I'm betting that your car is stunning, so I'll be the first to say.... :ttiwwp:
It's easy to post photos on this forum, after you've created your reply look below the box for "attachments and other options" . That lets you select photos from your PC and upload directly without having to go via a 3rd party website such as photobox, etc.
Brian
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Thanks EuropaTC! Sorry about the lack of photos. I have attached some from it's first venture out onto the roads on Saturday!
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Welcome! :coolpic:
Stunning heirloom for sure!
Love the custom support rod for the rear deck lid!
(I have one just like it). ;D
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Welcome! :coolpic:
Stunning heirloom for sure!
Love the custom support rod for the rear deck lid!
(I have one just like it). ;D
Haha, thanks! I've been told that a broom and wheel chocks are standard equipment for a Europa! The wheel chocks I would certainly agree with after using the handbrake for the first time on an incline on the weekend just gone!!
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:Welcome:
Good to see you over here in addition to Lotus Talk, EuropaJPS! Lotus Talk is a great site but I think you'll get more out of this forum because it's dedicated to Europas. Make yourself at home! :)
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She's beautiful!
I too am driving my father's europa, which he bought in 1973.
Cheers.
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:Welcome: It's good to have you onboard. Your Europa is simply gorgeous. Cheers :beerchug:
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JPS...It's great to have you and welcome to the forum. Judging from your pictures it appears you have quite the ride.
I have always been partial to black & gold and having build #83 makes me somewhat envious. Best of luck!...ld
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Thanks for all your welcomes and comments guys!
I always wanted to have it restored for my dad as a surprise for his 60th birthday but he sadly passed away when he was 58 so I didn't get the chance to do it for him.
I think he would have been bowled over by what Richard has done with the car. I know I am and I feel very proud to own JPS #83!
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Now that's a good looking car that anyone would be proud of, it's just a pity your dad didn't get to see it. Tell me, is that the later mk3 standard broomstick or the original lightweight racing brrrooommm ?
:)
The paint looks smashing, is it original or did Richard do a respray on it ?
Brian
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:FUNNY: it's the lightweight version. Anything to save weight!
The paint work is completely original - no re-spray at all. The interior is completely original as well. The only cosmetic bits Richard did was to tidy up the gold leaf where it started to peel. I think I have been very lucky with the body - it is in such good condition! The wheels were appalling though - they were sent off to a wheel refurb company that did a superb job with them.
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:Welcome: Wow, that is one stunning Europa!
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A quick question for you guys if that's ok...hopefully I'm not posting in the wrong place!
Now that the car is back, I'm looking to update my garage with some new tools I'll need/want to keep her in tip top condition.
I already have a decent AF tool set, low profile trolley jacks and scissor jacks etc etc and am looking into expanding my current basic (but functional) selection.
Does anyone have any advice on tools it would be prudent to invest in?
Any advice is gratefully received!
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Unlike modern cars, there isn't much of a need for many special tools although every mechanic will develop his own "special" tools by bending or grinding a wrench for that particular bolt that can't be reached any other way...
Make sure you have a set of metric wrenches for use with the tranny. I recently got a set of Gearwrench ratcheting combination wrenches that I love! Other manufacturers have similar wrenches. If possible, get the kind with the "universal" (sort of a castelated rather than a 12 pt) box end style as they will grab almost any nut of any description.
The tranny drain and fill plugs are tough to grab but I've found that the 7/16 size of the "universal" type box end works very well and doesn't bugger up the wrenching surfaces.
The front springs are compressed when installed on the shock so you will need make spring compressor for them. The standard compressors for struts will not work. Basically, you need two plates with holes in the middle big enough to put the shock through but small enough to compress the shock and still allow you to withdraw the spring keepers. Then there should be two holes on the outside for 3/8" all thread. I think you get the idea.
Hopefully, you won't have to deal with them but if you have door hinge issues, you will probably need some thin open end wrenches to grab the nuts in the hinge. If you have Richard's hinges, a 1 1/4 deep socket along with thin open end wrenches for the flats on his hinge set would be very useful.
There are special tools for crimping the bullet type electrical connectors as well as connecting them. The ones I've seen are pretty pricey. For most applications, I might convert to insulated spade lug connectors but if originality counts you might want to consider them if you need to do any electrical work.
That's all I can come up with at the moment.
Good luck!
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Does anyone have any advice on tools it would be prudent to invest in?
A BIG hammer and a swear box for the workshop ? There's nothing on these cars that swearing at and hitting as hard as you can won't fix...... ;)
Ok, being serious, I think tools are best purchased when you have a task in mind. Otherwise you end up with a massive collection that unfortunately doesn't have the exact frequency of sonic screwdriver you need to release that widget thrombulator. I'm digressing into silliness again, but the principle is sound all the same.
For example, if you decide you need to replace parts on the front suspension then you'll need something to pry ball joints apart so pop into Halfords and buy the tool. But until then, it will sit quietly in your toolbox and may have taken cash away from buying something you could use next week to balance the carburettors or whatever.
If you have a good set of AF and Metric spanners, ring & open ended, plus a 3/8" & 1/4" drive socket sets of good quality (Halfords Professional are fine) then I think that would do for general servicing. A multimeter or circuit tracing tool for the times when electrical gremlins strike and that will see you right.
If you get into serious restoration work then maybe sets of imperial & metric taps and dies which I have found invaluable if only for cleaning up old threads. And the facilities to just plug in a Helicoil after you've stripped the thread in that aluminium hub carrier for example is very handy. But these are not things you need every day and easily purchased if & when you do.
Most of us collect tools over the years and I'm no exception. But equally I have some that I've picked up and never used in anger.... the dial gauges when I thought I might want to assemble a differential 20yrs ago comes to mind.... ::)
Brian
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As already stated, a set of combination spanners, socket sets in 1/2" drive, 3/8" drive and 1/4" drive, taps & dies and a set of good screw drivers.
Other tools that get used regularly in my garage:
torque wrench - could get away with a 3/8" drive one, but pick up a 3/8" to 1/2" adapter
razor blades or good quality paint scrapers (makes gasket removal a bit easier)
wire brush(es) - great for removing paint, rust, grime etc
a large ball peen hammer, and a medium sized one too (can be used to remove ball joints, take out frustration etc)
a washing up bucket, a toothbrush and some solvents (mineral spirits etc) - good for cleaning up greasy bits, but remember to wear gloves (nitrile etc)
hand drill and good quality drill bits (a centre punch helps too)
Specialty tools that are handy but not necessary:
feeler gauges - for checking valve clearances etc
angry grinder with both grinding wheel and cut off wheels
But, this all depends on how much work you're wanting to do to the car. My garage now has nearly every tool I need to build a car from scratch, minus a mill and an english wheel.
Rod
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Thanks BDA, EuropaTC and RoddyMac - great advice and I really appreciate it!
I think I'll invest in a torque wrench and a volt meter for now and buy tools as and when I need them in the future, as recommended in the previous posts.
Could I be cheeky and ask for opinions on what torque wrench's and volt meters - whether it is a model you own or think would be a good choice please? If anybody has any links available to suitable kit, that would be fantastic, but no worries if not, I just appreciate all the excellent advice.
Many thanks in advance, you have all been brilliant :D
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It sounds like you're just starting to accumulate the tools you'll need to work on your car. In that case, I'd recommend (and echo and combine EuropaTC's and RoddyMac's advice) that you should at least start with a set of metric and SAE (inch) wrenches, sockets in 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive, some extensions and ratchets, screw drivers. Electric drill and drill bit set. Drain pan, solvent.
Any multi meter will do. Since the engine ignition timing is set statically, you should get a test lamp or circuit tester. A good brand of "click" type torque wrench - I prefer 1/2" drive but 3/8" might give your the range you need. Beam torque wrenches will work, too, but they are not nearly as nice or accurate to use.
All the things RoddyMac and EuropaTC listed are great to have and things that you should expect to eventually get, but I think some things like tap & die sets can wait till you need them. As RoddyMac states, you'll want a hammer. I'd add a set of punches and cold chisels but I think that is something you can wait for till you need them.
I really don't want to appear to be stepping on EuropaTCs and RoddyMac's advice because it's all good. I just thought I chime in on what they said.
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I'm like BDA on multimeters. I have a couple and they've both been Ebay cheapies, and I mean CHEAP - the sort you see that are sold on Ebay UK from China and typically take a couple of weeks to arrive but are half the price of things in Halfords, etc. No doubt they aren't super accurate but I only need a rough 12v range to check continuity/battery condition/charge rate for the most part. I've used it for resistances of instrument senders but nothing that warrants a £20 (or more) meter.
I've 2 "click" torque wrenches, 1/2" & 3/8". The 1/2" was expensive but feels good to use, the 3/8" a cheap Sealey one which is not as well finished but yep, it does the job. I use mostly 3/8" sockets these days so thought I'd use the 3/8" more but that's another toy that's not really been used in anger. Even with a small neat wrench it turns out I still only think to use them when it's head gasket or engine rebuild time.
Actually one thing that's been mentioned by Roddy that I don't normally think of as a "car" tool - the angle grinder with cut-off wheels. Excellent choice..... it's the best spanner I've got.
Brian
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It just dawned on me, a decent jack and either a pair or two sets (4 in total) of jackstands are a must if you're planning on doing any work under the car. I've never trusted "ramps", but they may work as well. And something that has always been in the garage since before I was even though of, is a short stool or seat. Dad was out on an MG rally and came across someone throwing away an old milking stool, its now been painted every shade of black, Healey engine green, MG engine red etc over the years but still proves its worth. One other thing is a good trouble lamp, I've got a florescent one in the garage which is nice because it doesn't get warm like an incandescent, though I'm sure most of the ones available today are LED lamps.
As for multimeters, as its been stated, anything cheap should work. I also have a test light in the tool box which helps with diagnosing bulb sockets and other wiring issues.
And I too have a 1/2" and 3/8" click type torque wrenches, plus an old bar type 1/2" one. I just have to remember to convert inch pounds to foot pounds when I'm using the 3/8" one.
Rod
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Once again, great advice, thanks guys. What sort of force range should I be looking for in a torque wrench, or is it a case of getting multiple wrenches to cover all scenarios?
Thanks all!
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JPS, I agree with all the prior posts about basic tools to accomplish routine service and repairs. You may want to consider your workplace also...Good basic lighting is a must by adding some permanent fixtures, a heat source to keep you comfortable on the chilly days and don't forget the floor. You will be on your back most times unless you have a lift.
For about $100 you can cover 50 sq. feet with a good floor padding...ld
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Checking the torque range on some 3/8" drive torque wrenches on Amazon, it seems that a max torque of 80 ft-lbs is pretty common so that would do almost everything on the car. The larger nuts like the rear stub axle nut require much more but you shouldn't need to fool with that for a LONG time.
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I have a nice sealey torque wrench, the STW1011. It has quite a wide range that will let you do most of the work on the Europa (7-112nm/ 5-83lb.ft ) and it isn't too expensive either. It comes with a calibration certificate so it should be quite accurate.
This is it:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-8-inch-7-112nm-5-83lb-ft-Micrometer/dp/B000ROF64O/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1422632664&sr=1-1&keywords=STW1011
Serge
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When I bought my Europa I had to go out and buy lighter torque wrenches, as everything I had was fine for big American cars, but the little Europa needs a more delicate touch. I bought Gear Wrench 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive micrometer (click type) torque wrenches to cover the lesser torque requirements for the Europa's fasteners (I don't recall the torque range for each wrench, but can get this if you need). Buying a decent quality torque wrench is worth while, as accuracy is important and a good wrench will provide many years of reliable service. There is junk out there that is not worth having at all.
If you will be doing your own tuning, then another tool that may be worth picking up is a carb flow balancing tool. There are numerous types, and different people have their preferences. Also, a Colour Tune Plug is a worth while minor investment.
Also, go to an industrial supplier of quality fasteners and pick up a selection of UNF lock nuts (nyloc, etc) in 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", and a couple 7/16". UNF lock nuts can be hard to find when you need them, but are immensly handy when doing maintenance around the car. While you are there, pick up a small selection of Grade 8 (or higher) UNF bolts in lengths of about 3/4" -2". Some Loctite 242 (blue loctite) is worth keeping around, too. These will always be handy when doing Lotus maintenance.
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I have a nice sealey torque wrench, the STW1011. It has quite a wide range that will let you do most of the work on the Europa (7-112nm/ 5-83lb.ft ) and it isn't too expensive either. It comes with a calibration certificate so it should be quite accurate.
This is it:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-8-inch-7-112nm-5-83lb-ft-Micrometer/dp/B000ROF64O/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1422632664&sr=1-1&keywords=STW1011
Serge
Excellent, thanks for the link Serge, most appreciated!
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As usual, you have all been great, thank you very much for the advice. Right, time to do some shopping!! Thanks again everyone.
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One tool that I've found to be indispensable is the hand impact tool. For small super tight fasteners, you can put a tremendous amount of downward force and at the same time turn the tool to remove the fastener without bunging up the head. Works especially well in removing carb covers for the first time, especially Phillips head screws.
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Brief comments on torque wrenches:
- a torque wrench may be accurate when you buy it but it won't stay that way. Treat it with care, keep it in it's case and, most importantly, have it calibrated every two or so years. (Yes, I have seen an engine go bang because a torque wrench was off)
- torque wrenches are accurate in the middle part of their range, not in the low and high parts of the range.
- torque settings are for clean and dry threads unless otherwise specified. Lubed threads will result in a higher torque. Usually this is not an issue but some fittings are quite critical on a Europa.
- finally, regardless of what you read on the internet, break away torque is NOT the same as tightening torque. You cannot test a torque wrench by undoing a torqued fitting.
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- finally, regardless of what you read on the internet, break away torque is NOT the same as tightening torque. You cannot test a torque wrench by undoing a torqued fitting.
That's a good point that a lot of people who ought to know don't. I remember back in the day, I was at an engine builder's shop and the guy went to retorque the head nuts of my engine. Of course, the wrench clicked immediately without doing anything. I told him the coefficient of static friction is a lot more than dynamic friction and in order to retorque a head nut, he had to loosen it first and then retighten it. He thought it made sense but I don't know if he changed his procedure or not. The difference between static and dynamic friction was of course something we learned in engineering school, but ironically, the person who taught me the application of that with regards to torquing fasteners was a racing buddy of mine who was a chemist!
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JPS, I agree with all the prior posts about basic tools to accomplish routine service and repairs. You may want to consider your workplace also...Good basic lighting is a must by adding some permanent fixtures, a heat source to keep you comfortable on the chilly days and don't forget the floor. You will be on your back most times unless you have a lift.
For about $100 you can cover 50 sq. feet with a good floor padding...ld
What are the odds... ;D
(http://i57.tinypic.com/331226b.jpg)
(http://i61.tinypic.com/2lkaclk.jpg)
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I guess great minds think alike! ;D