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Garage / Re: Reassembling the TCS doors
« Last post by TurboFource on Today at 05:07:55 AM »It is Clifton
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Garage / Re: Reassembling the TCS doors
« Last post by Clifton on Today at 04:11:13 AM »The abrasive in that pic looks like drywall sanding screen.
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Garage / Re: Another S2 adventure, 742R, Carnival red and "Running".
« Last post by TurboFource on Today at 04:08:26 AM »On TCST the lower links are in front of the uprights and much straighter …. Is a Twin Cam different than an S2 in this setup? No fancy spacers needed etc.
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Garage / Re: 40 DCOE Webers flooding
« Last post by 4129R on Today at 01:13:25 AM »New 175 float valves fitted. Petrol still dripping out of Webers. Manually adjustable fuel valve on order. I wonder why this one decided to leak fuel, and the others didn't. This one has a new AC Delco pump, which must be pushing out more pressure than the others. Maybe I need to take a much closer look at the others to make sure they are not flooding either.
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Garage / Re: Reassembling the TCS doors
« Last post by GavinT on Today at 12:50:05 AM »Below is another stolen pic of the method I used - washers cut from a drywall sanding sheet.
My impression is that using a finer grit is better. The previous course grit abrasive washers made from grinder discs just seemed to crush the abrasive chips.
The diamond cut-off disc idea sounds perhaps better, I reckon. The trick might be finding ones with the plain steel centre section which can be drilled out easily.
I doubt there's anything that will stop the hinge pin rotating in the bobbin.
I think it was Brian? (EuropaTC) who showed a method of constraining relative movement of the stock single piece pin.
I'm not familiar with the Banks hinges apart from pictures but they appear to actually enforce rotation of the pin(s). Is that correct?
My impression is that using a finer grit is better. The previous course grit abrasive washers made from grinder discs just seemed to crush the abrasive chips.
The diamond cut-off disc idea sounds perhaps better, I reckon. The trick might be finding ones with the plain steel centre section which can be drilled out easily.
I doubt there's anything that will stop the hinge pin rotating in the bobbin.
I think it was Brian? (EuropaTC) who showed a method of constraining relative movement of the stock single piece pin.
I'm not familiar with the Banks hinges apart from pictures but they appear to actually enforce rotation of the pin(s). Is that correct?
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Garage / Re: Another S2 adventure, 742R, Carnival red and "Running".
« Last post by Richard48Y on Today at 12:06:36 AM »Ran into a snag with the lower links.
The rod ends are too large in diameter to clear the bases of the SPAX shocks.
This left me two choices, space them to fit behind the shock or space the shocks a little to make room.
I did not like the way leverage would act on the upright with the lower link spaced so far back.
I expect the shock exerts less force as it moves and has give.
I used Mezier safety washers and custom spacers I spun up on my lathe.
I'm guessing I might have been able to buy rod ends that were smaller in outer diameter but these are about new and in hand.
Swaged 15" tubes from Summit Racing were inexpensive.
16" were a little long, seems 15.5" would be ideal but are not readily available.
The rod ends are too large in diameter to clear the bases of the SPAX shocks.
This left me two choices, space them to fit behind the shock or space the shocks a little to make room.
I did not like the way leverage would act on the upright with the lower link spaced so far back.
I expect the shock exerts less force as it moves and has give.
I used Mezier safety washers and custom spacers I spun up on my lathe.
I'm guessing I might have been able to buy rod ends that were smaller in outer diameter but these are about new and in hand.
Swaged 15" tubes from Summit Racing were inexpensive.
16" were a little long, seems 15.5" would be ideal but are not readily available.
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Garage / S2 upper ball joint boots or new BJ's.
« Last post by Richard48Y on Thursday,May 09, 2024, 08:51:06 PM »The upper ball joints on my S2 appear new, a lot of work was done just before it went into storage.
But the boots have rotted away over time.
Somewhere I saw a suggestion to use Energy Suspension 9.13105G Tie-Rod end boots.
They are certainly cheap enough and probably much more durable than rubber.
But I have to rate them as a Fail.
They have no return lip or spring wire to hold them in place at the wide end.
Under articulation the wide end will not stay in place to form a waterproof seal.
Now thinking I will just buy new BJ's.
So what brand is best quality now?
A part number and source would be even better.
Small simple part so hoping not to have to order from the UK.
But the boots have rotted away over time.
Somewhere I saw a suggestion to use Energy Suspension 9.13105G Tie-Rod end boots.
They are certainly cheap enough and probably much more durable than rubber.
But I have to rate them as a Fail.
They have no return lip or spring wire to hold them in place at the wide end.
Under articulation the wide end will not stay in place to form a waterproof seal.
Now thinking I will just buy new BJ's.
So what brand is best quality now?
A part number and source would be even better.
Small simple part so hoping not to have to order from the UK.
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Garage / Re: The revival of 650143R, 1970 with TS.
« Last post by Richard48Y on Thursday,May 09, 2024, 07:28:06 PM »Cat Cams have agreed to replace my damaged adjustable cam gear center hub.
Hopefully I will not be waiting too long.
Not certain what a normal press fit would be, but I will have this one honed out if it is too tight again.
You would expect that with the cam and gear coming from the same company there would be no issue.
Suspecting that at least one is contracted out and assumptions were made.
Someone should be checking the specs.
Hopefully I will not be waiting too long.
Not certain what a normal press fit would be, but I will have this one honed out if it is too tight again.
You would expect that with the cam and gear coming from the same company there would be no issue.
Suspecting that at least one is contracted out and assumptions were made.
Someone should be checking the specs.
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Garage / Re: Reassembling the TCS doors
« Last post by BDA on Thursday,May 09, 2024, 06:14:24 PM »Maybe some course sandpaper might be helpful.
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Garage / Re: It's not easy being green - 1971 TC
« Last post by Cheguava on Thursday,May 09, 2024, 04:45:26 PM »Yes, that's the one. I dremelled off the heads of the originals, too. For mine, the quarter light frame was gooped with the same mastic as the movable window frame.
That's useful to know, I think that must be what's holding mine in - will try and run a Stanley knife between the quarterlight and door frame tomorrow.