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TC New Water Pump Leaking.

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4129R:
I fitted a proper water pump repair kit to my TCS, fitted the engine, filled up the coolant, and water poured out of the weep hole in the water pump.

I took the engine out, removed the water pump housing, cleaned up the inside of the water pump, carefully pressed in the metal and rubber seal for the shaft to the casing, carefully pressed in the shaft, the impellor with the correct clearance, and the flange for the pulley, carefully assembled the casing back on the engine, plugged the output of the pump with a rubber hose and round metal plug in the other end of the hose (a large hammer), poured water into the thermostat housing with the thermostat removed, and water leaked out of the weep hole again.

What am I doing wrong? I fitted the rubber washer the right way around, everything looked right, but it leaks.

Has anyone else had this problem?

Any ideas please?

Corroded aluminium casing?

The Bean cassette pump looks expensive, what does it cost all together these days?

jbcollier:
It is really hard to say over the phone.  I have only done a couple of these but have had no problems.  Given that it is leaking out the weep hole, the seal is not contacting its run properly.  The seal needs to compress somewhat as its run is pressed into place.  This tension is what makes the seal work.

EuropaTC:
Hmm, like John says, it's not an easy one. Thinking back I've done 4 now between the Elan & Europa and none have leaked afterwards, well, not for a few years anyway.

The mechanical seal does need compression to work and usually a few rotations to settle it down.  My first thought was the seal to the impellor being wrong - I've attached the diagram I had as a crib sheet for when I did mine.

If it's coming out of the weep hole then it's got to be either the ceramic face not seating properly, not enough compressive force in the seal or even a split in the rubber diaphragm on the seal. None of which are good news - unless of course turning it a few times settles the faces down and it seals as it should.

Lotuswins:
My first attempt at it lasted less than a mile to my neighbor's house where it leaked all over his drive.  Apparently I cracked the carbon somehow, so not wanting to go through the engine pull, etc. I got the Bean cover.  It has the added benefit of using a slightly larger bearing (Esprit) and mine has been trouble free for over 30k miles so far.  Cost about $500 20 years ago, but now I think they are over $800 if you can find one.  Give Ken a call if interested.  I think there is also a kit offered up in the UK.  I have done a few since for a friend's racer that have worked, but the removable cartridge is the way to go if you can afford it.

Jerry Rude
4005R

4129R:

--- Quote from: EuropaTC on Saturday,July 15, 2023, 09:20:38 AM --- unless of course turning it a few times settles the faces down and it seals as it should.

--- End quote ---

Thank you very much for that suggestion. That has saved me a water pump, a lot of aggravation and time. I turned the flange a few times, filled up the thermostat housing to the brim, and the leak seems to have stopped.

I will leave it for a while to see if it is still dry in a couple of hours, but it had not leaked much over night, and once the flange was turned, it seems to have seated and sealed. Thanks again.

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