rear axle disassembly / re-assembly

[Fotog]

I want to disassemble and check the rear wheel bearings and spacers on my TC.  The splined stub-axle and hub were not assembled with Loctite (lubricated instead...maybe better than nothing), and the transaxle output shafts were not shimmed, so I think this would bear examination before I reassemble it all.

My question is about what tools or techniques I need to do this so I don't have it apart for an extended time.  I've read the manual, which says to put the nut back on the stub axle and knock it out with a hammer.   Ok, fine. 

The bearings:  Just reach inside them with a largish pin-punch and tap them out once the assembly is heated in hot water (as the manual says)?

Any suggestions for putting this back together?  Special tools or techniques?  I surely don't want to damage the aluminum bearing housing by getting things cocked.  Might the bearings need to be pressed-in? Do I chill the stub axle in a freezer in order to get it back through the bearings? 

I have read as many of the posts about this assembly as possible and it isn't so complicated, but I just want to be ready for what I encounter and not bugger anything up.
Thank you,
Vince

[dakazman]

  Happy new year Vince,
The half shaft seem to come apart easily. The inner bearing will pull out of the aluminum hub and then the fun begins with removing the bearing off the shaft. If your going to replace the bearings while it’s out replace the u-joints.
I watched serge’s video on YouTube per Bodzer’s recommendation. It help somewhat. I froze the half-shaft and heated the bearing , one side went perfectly. The other bearing went halfway on the shaft and would not climb on the seat . It’s now a work in progress. I may use a pipe and press it onto the seat using the axle nut.
  I also read Certified’s thread approximately page 30 or so of his build.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Use a press, not the axle nut.  The threads on the axle are not particularly strong.

[dakazman]

  Thanks JB.

Dakazman

[Fotog]

Thanks, fellows, for your insight.  Dave, I hadn't seen that exchange in your thread on this same topic, and it's helpful.  My search for similar topics was done a few weeks ago, and I just wasn't keeping up on your progress.  Maybe I assumed you were still polishing  .

It sounds like this could be a little tricky.  I just want to make sure I can get it back together again shortly, since I may have to move the car to a different garage soon.

-V

[jbcollier]

If you have to move it, assemble the splines dry and snug up the nut but not to full torque.  Best practice is to have a running a car first, then use the special loctite on the splines and torque the nut.  Before locking the nut, drive it and corner hard both ways for five or ten minutes.  Alternating circles in a parking lot would work fine.  Back off the nut a quarter turn and then tighten to specified torque.  Then do more circles.  Repeat at least three times.  Go until the nut no longer goes any further.  Now you can fold over the lock-tab.

[dakazman]

   Hi Vince,
  I was just waiting for a bearing and collecting the proper lock-tite . Just checking cleaning , tapping all
the threads on components takes time.  I also replaced the hardware , bolts and washers on the hubs .

 Did you read certifieds’ and watch serges video? My machinist removed the inner bearing because it took a adapter plate to pull off.
  When assembling place the inner spacer inside hub as soon as you hang the hub. Measure the spacer and make sure it’s within tolerance.
  As I was doing the right side I kept laughing that I can’t wait to do the other side.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

The stock spacers are seamed, mild steel tubing.  In the manual it says they must be replaced every time the hub is taken apart.  Most Lotus suppliers now offer hardened spacers that are much stronger and can be reused.  It is also pretty easy to make your own if you have access to a lathe.  Use the up-rated spacers.  Under no circumstances reuse the original mild, steel spacers.

[Fotog]

Dave:  I did watch Serge's video, which makes it look pretty simple.  Certified's log is a bit more complicated.  I'm still digesting his adventure.

I may end up just doing the shimming and Loctite-ing for now and replace the bearings later.  I don't sense any problem; but as I mentioned, nothing else that I've examined is as it should be, so it would be nice to completely relieve the anxiety.  I assume that it's not that difficult to get the hub off with heat and a proper puller.  (right?)

No matter what, I'll take JB's advice and make the effort to see that things are fully seated before completely torquing the nut, and replace the spacers with new hardened ones.

Vince

[jbcollier]

Just a further note, the correct loctite is 635.  It's meant for splines and, most importantly, has a slow cure rate.  This gives you lots of time to get it assembled and go through all the tightening rigamarole.

[Fotog]

... the correct loctite is 635.  It's meant for splines ...

Yes; understood.
Since the bearings are an interference fit with the stub axle, is there concern that you could push the outer bearing out of its seat in the housing/hub carrier [whatever the aluminum casting is called] when installing the axle?

[jbcollier]

Not if you use a press and the proper support tools.

[dakazman]

   JB we really need a Chapter R , special tools, in the manual and maybe a picture of these support tools. It would also list all the proper lubricants beforehand. Next time I’m at the machinist I’ll take a picture of the clamps they use for removal for a press. I’ve noticed on some stub axles the center hollow is off centered from pullers.

Dakazman