Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: LotusJoe on Wednesday,January 29, 2014, 10:06:37 AM
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I received the Aluminum Radiator yesterday. This is one I purchased from eBay and made in China. As I suspected all mounting studs and the bung for the otter switch are Metric. The studs are M6 and the bung is M16 X 1.5. Overall the radiator seems to be well made. I confirmed there is a baffle plate welded inside to divide the tank on the inlet and outlet side. I wish I had snagged one when they were $130.00, but am satisfied with the $248.00 price which included shipping.
(http://www.lotuseuropa.org/gallery/albums/album13/Aluminum_Rad_1.sized.jpg)
(http://www.lotuseuropa.org/gallery/albums/album13/Aluminum_Radiator_2.sized.jpg)
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Hi Joe,
The radiator looks the part, let's hope it works as well as it looks.
I wish I had snagged one up too for $130!
Can you see if the core is brazed or epoxied?
Kind regards,
Serge
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All seams are brazed.
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Great buy, Joe. I purchased an aluminum radiator during a group buy on the yahoo site. The cost was about $350, which I thought was fair. Your deal is certainly much better than that. Cheers.
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Out with the old and in with the new. Fan transferred and screen installed.It will be interesting to see if there is any difference. Now what to do with the old radiator. I had it cleaned and pressure tested and never had an opportunity to use it.So it is fresh and ready for use. :confused:
(http://www.lotuseuropa.org/gallery/albums/album13/Radiator_side_by_side.jpg)
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I sent off for one of those radiators (unfortunately not soon enough to get the deal you did! Which fan did you use? Where did you get it? What is the cfm?
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Out with the old and in with the new. Fan transferred and screen installed.It will be interesting to see if there is any difference. Now what to do with the old radiator. I had it cleaned and pressure tested and never had an opportunity to use it.So it is fresh and ready for use. :confused:
Joe, looks like you mounted the aftermarket fan to the original stud location on the radiator. How did you modify the fan to make it fit. Looks pretty clean compared to my solution.
Keep the original radiator, never know when you might need it again.
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Out with the old and in with the new. Fan transferred and screen installed.It will be interesting to see if there is any difference. Now what to do with the old radiator. I had it cleaned and pressure tested and never had an opportunity to use it.So it is fresh and ready for use. :confused:
Joe, looks like you mounted the aftermarket fan to the original stud location on the radiator. How did you modify the fan to make it fit. Looks pretty clean compared to my solution.
Keep the original radiator, never know when you might need it again.
I cut one of the brackets off and positioned it to accomidate the new fan, then brazed back into place. I did the same thing on the aluminum radiator.
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I sent off for one of those radiators (unfortunately not soon enough to get the deal you did! Which fan did you use? Where did you get it? What is the cfm?
That is a Spal 10" fan. 1350 m3 / hour
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Thanks, Joe. Did I do my math right? 1350 m3/hr = ~800 cfm? What is your engine like? Does it keep it cool?
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Yes the math is pretty close. 794 cubic feet per minute.
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Just got my new aluminum radiator. It looks like it's well made. I'm a little disappointed that the core wasn't the full thickness but that doesn't necessarily mean it won't be efficient. I read somebody on the yahoo group complain that the studs on the bottom were a strange size but they are just metric. Choosing a fan and installing it is next but "next" is after I get the rear end put back together! :)
Have you had it in your car yet? Any experiences to relate?
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I have already installed mine. No issues to report...a straight replacement. I can confirm the studs on the bottom studs are M6. And the bung for otter switch is M16 X 1.5.
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Glad to hear it! Continued good luck!
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FYI
These eBay radiators were recently priced at $279 and coming from China. They are now priced at $233 and in the US.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=351013184483&ssPageName=ADME:X:PROI:US:3160 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=351013184483&ssPageName=ADME:X:PROI:US:3160)
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What radiator fan switch did you use? I just bought one of these.
Paul Harhen
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:Welcome: Paul!
I thought I had posted about what I did for the fan switch in my aluminum radiator but I couldn't find it (maybe I was dreaming). I did find this from a post by jbcollier:
The alloy rad I have takes the euro-common standard 22 mm x 1.5 thread. These are available in a wide range of temperature options from VW water cooled aftermarket part’s suppliers. It has the fan switch on the hot side so I will be running a fan switch in the range of 185 - 190ish on and 175 to 180ish off paired with a 160 stat.
I'm pretty sure he's talking about the same radiator you and I have but I don't remember the thread for the switch to be absolutely sure. I found that it took a switch from a Nissan Sentra - which is not to imply there aren't many compatible switches as jb states. I couldn't get the switch to turn on for me. Maybe because I screwed up... I don't know, but in the end, I got one of these (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN4XZI?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00). I really like that it's adjustable and it worked after wiring it up the first time.
If you haven't gotten a fan yet, I can recommend this one (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038ZG0DK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00). It has the highest volume for its size and it nearly fits the radiator perfectly, but you will still probably have to have a minor modification made to the fan mounts on the radiator.
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The original rad uses 22 mm x 1.5 thread. The Chinese alloy rad has 16 mm x 1.5 thread. Need a cooling fan switch in that size? Google "rad fan switch 16 mm x 1.5". Yes, it really is that easy. Pay attention to the temperature rating!
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Thanks for the correction, John!
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I'm resurrecting this old thread to ask if anyone of you can provide a longer term review? Any problems?
Also, the original versions of these Chinese radiators had a 2-row core that is 62mm thick. Now 3-row, 86mm core versions are available. Is the thicker core needed? How much more cooling does it offer? What is the diminishing return for an additional row?
The original radiator has a thicker core, but are the new radiators more efficient with the thinner core than the original thick core?
I have one of the thinner ones but have yet to install it. However I'm now having overheating issues. Particularly on charges up long mountains passes at 8,000 to 9,500 feet, I've boiled over. :confused: I've also resulted to turning the heater on when cruising when it is near 100 F, not fun. I'm not sure if my original cooling system has gotten worse, or if I'm just driving my Europa harder and more often. Would it be worth upgrading to the thicker core before I swap out my radiator?
two row core- https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Row-Aluminum-Radiator-For-Lotus-Europa-Coupe-S1-S2-TC-1-5L-1-6L-MT-1966-1976/203067390864?fits=Model%3AEuropa%7CMake%3ALotus&hash=item2f47c27b90:g:GDAAAOSwAN9disQl
Three row core- https://www.ebay.com/itm/3row-Alu-Radiator-Shroud-Fan-For-Lotus-Europa-Coupe-S1-S2-TC-1-5-1-6-1966-1976/114245732654?fits=Model%3AEuropa%7CMake%3ALotus&hash=item1a9993892e:g:BDEAAOSwoAFe1ggx
The upgraded cooling fan also looks attractive.
(As a side note, I had a heat blocking clear "tint" applied to the inside of my windscreen/windshield and it is great at making the cockpit more comfortable, until I need to turn the heater on. This is something I wish I would have done sooner.)
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Go through the basics first:
- ignition timing ok.
- carb not set lean.
- coolant a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze.
(it's called antifreeze but it also raise the boiling point. Can't remember when you last changed it? Change it)
- rad cap ok.
(get it pressure tested as a higher pressure also raises the boiling point)
- coolant leaks.
(pressure test the system, water pump leaks common)
- coolant low. (air locks)
- rad baffle in place.
(coolant flows along the bottom then back across the top)
- thermostat opens at its rated temp.
- rad fan turns on at the switch's rated temp.
- rad fan running the right way. (pushing air through the rad)
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In my experience, it's not usually the radiator, but the air flow through the radiator. I live in Florida and my car has an ac condenser in front of the radiator. My radiator is aluminum but I purchased it through a group buy. I first put a Chinese fan in, held in with clips, as many of them are. It would overheat.
I now have twin spal 9" fans mounter to a shroud, i don't know I needed two, but it works. I think the key is a shroud, which directs all the fan air through the radiator instead recirculating.
Fyi, I use a Hayden digital fan controller, whichI love. The fan speed is variable, so they don't run full bore all the time. The setpoint is variable as well.
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Now those are serious fans. The large, thick blades will move a lot of air. I'm going to see if I can do the same. My system is "ok". It never overheats but it does get hot in traffic with the AC on.
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Did some more digging and those fans are pullers. Do you have them in the wheel well?
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I'll second what Pfreen says about airflow. I'm using a Corolla radiator with factory twin fans. It would get a little warm, warmer than the stat. I made an aluminum shroud with the two largest Spal fans that would fit it and it brought the temps down.
Don't trust the CFM rating on Ebay fans. Go to Spals site.
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I have had a Chinese aluminum radiator for six years and have no complaints.
It replaced a custom brass radiator made by a radiator shop that had made radiators for race cars. The guy at the shop said that the original Europa radiator I brought to him was obsolete and inefficient so I consented to have him build me a new radiator. It turned out to be thinner than the stock radiator but I didn't measure how much. I suspect by as much as 1" because he provided studs on the bottom to match the original's and I had to add a 1/2" spacer behind the radiator. If he put the studs in the center of the radiator, that would imply his was as about 1" thinner than the original. I don't remember having any trouble with that radiator either.
Unfortunately, I can't give many specifics about either of those radiators. I suspect that the aluminum one is the thickness of the original radiator only because the studs on the bottom mount it in the body so that a spacer is not required but it could be that they were just placed in the correct position. The 10" fan I purchased was from Amazon by CFR Performance. They claim 2000 CFM. My only complaint about my Chinese aluminum fan is that the mounting facility on it almost lined up to the mounting holes in the fan but not quite so I had to have that modified. As I say, I have had no problems with the fan or the radiator. I don't overheat.
If you're interested, I can take a measurement or two of my radiator.
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I bought a 2 row 62mm radiator in November last year (which I haven't fitted yet). The fan switch hole was tapped M18 x 1.5. I bought a brass adapter to to take this down to M14x1.5 to fit the fan switch I bought, all from ebay. I waited till I received it before looking for fan switches, so I could determine the thread sizes.
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I also believe that maximizing airflow through the radiator is key to maintaining adequate cooling in all traffic conditions. When I had my 73 TCS on the road, the stock radiator and fan managed to keep the engine cool during the hottest So Cal summer temperatures. Coming up to a traffic light, I would toggle my fan override switch to get a head start on the cooling before coming to a stop. As far as I remember, I never overheated with the stock setup, but you definitely kept an eye on the temperature gauge all the time you were stopped.
The stock radiator is a thick heavy 4 row brass/copper lump about 2 -3/4” in width. The stock fan provided a lot of air flow through the radiator but there is also a lot of wasted air flow from the fan not making it through the radiator. The air bounces back or across the front due to the high resistance from the thickness of the radiator.
A fan shroud should maximize the air flow through the radiator and I'm not too sure that multiple fans are needed. If the original 10” vintage fan was adequate for cooling the engine with a non-shrouded radiator, I'm thinking that a modern 10” high flow paddle style fan with a shroud should be more than adequate for the stock Europa.
Going back to aluminum radiators, has anyone developed a leak in one and tried to repair it?
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My fans are Spal pushers. They also sell them as pullers.
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Thank you for the replies! Is there anything specific I should check or do for airflow through the radiator at speed? The nose is empty except for a bottle of spare coolant where the spare tire used to be.
Am I correct to leave the fan off, except at low speeds or in traffic? I've not observed any benefit to having it on at speed. It does work to keep my temp down when in in-town traffic.
Thanks for the check list John.
- ignition timing ok. --- I'll check it again. I have not checked it recently because the car has been running great.
- carb not set lean. --- I run rich, as judged by the plugs (and exhaust smell). I was set up at sea-level but the lowest point around here is 4,200'.
- coolant a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze. --- Yes 50/50. Changed three times in the last 8 years, most recently this month. It had been about 5 years since the last flush and change. The car was in storage for about 20 years before being put back on the road in 2012. I doubt it was changed while in storage and the cooling system suffered from that. I have flushed the hell out of it using a garden hose and coolant system flush (the acidic stuff). The first flush was downright nasty! Subsequent flushes have been rust stained but with much less "sediment." Stainless transfer pipes are on my long term to do list.
- rad cap ok. --- The cap was new 8 years ago. With this flush I replaced the cap. Both were Stant, 7 psi. Is it worth testing a new cap?
- coolant leaks. --- No visible leaks. The coolant level stays constant (unless it overheats).
- coolant low. (air locks) --- I do believe this was my problem, but only one time. Bleeding this system is not so easy.
- rad baffle in place. --- Based on flushing the radiator directly, it seams water flows through the radiator before exiting. Is there a better way to check this?
- thermostat opens at its rated temp. --- I just checked my notes and I have not changed or checked the thermostat. I will do this. (The car does come up to temp and then stabilize, only over heating when ambient temperature is high or on long uphill hauls at speed)
- rad fan turns on at the switch's rated temp. --- My Otter switch does not seem to work but I have and use an override switch at the dash. I ordered a switch for the new radiator, but it is not the issue currently.
- rad fan running the right way. (pushing air through the rad) --- The fan seems to be effective at slow speeds in traffic. I turn it on and the gauge moves down or stabilizes. However at maintained speeds I generally have it off, thinking it would not do anything, or might even impede flow. Is this generally correct? My heating problems have been at higher speeds.
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The one thing that JB didn't mention is to check that your cooling system is burped. Get the water hot enough that it circulates through the radiator and you open your heater valve, then open the petcock on the top of the radiator to let all the air out. I assume you did that so this is for the benefit of others.
There are two ways to deal with the fan. You can get a thermal switch that fits the threads in your radiator and wire it as though it were the otter switch that came in the car or you can get a fan controller. I did both. Some parts suppliers have books that actually give the specs (threads, temperature range, etc) for the fan switches. If you have a NAPA store handy, they are good for that. For whatever reason (probably because of my own stupidity) I couldn't get the thermal switch to work so I got a fan controller. It has a thermocouple that slides easily between the fins and tubes of the radiator. The controller allows you to adjust when you want the fan to come on and includes wiring to allow you to override the switch to turn it on manually. I got it on Amazon for about $50 (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CN4XZI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).
I have found that if there is air going through the radiator, the fan is not needed.
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You probably know already, but you might not be able to run the fan straight through a new fan thermostat (too much current), like the original wiring did with the otter switch. You will probably need to use it to switch a relay. That's what I plan to do. It does mean you can also use the relay via a fan override switch as well and keep the current through the fan override wiring low too I will be feeding power to a fuse/relay box in the front compartment from the Ammeter as I will also be replacing the headlamps with ones that take H4 bulbs at the same time, with a relay for each high and low beam. I'll be using 6 relays in total in the front compartment, 4 for lights, 1 for horn and 1 for radiator fan.
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A couple of comments about flow through the radiator. For those driving unrestored cars or older restorations, it is worth checking for a build-up of debris (bug carcasses, dirt & silt, and other junk) between the AFT face of the radiator and the protective screen. It's a bit of a forgotten area but a collection of junk here can significantly impede flow.
Perhaps more interestingly, another impedance to flow may be the screen itself. I recently fitted a new aluminum radiator, and wondered how much of a flow restriction may be created by the rather chunky screen itself. I did some math and was astonished to find that, of the window described by the border of the screen, more than half, 53%, was covered by the screen wire. Finding this hard to believe I tackled the math from another direction and came up with 57% coverage. This is an incredible number.
I Figure that considerable improvements to cooling system performance could be gained here. When I bought my radiator, the maker also offered a very lightweight, honeycomb membrane screen that provides almost no resistance to air flow. I was uncertain about using this seemingly flimsy material to protect my rad, but it is sold to dirt track racers to protect radiators, so it must be able to withstand significant abuse. I made up a new screen from this stuff and fitted it with velcro so it could be removed occasionally for cleaning. I have since emailed the company to ask what this stuff is called, and where can I get more of it, but they have not replied. Anyway, thought I'd pass this along.
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My radiator is aluminum but I purchased it through a group buy.
My radiator is also a Saldana, purchased through a group-buy on the yahoo site about nine years ago, though curiously it looks quite different from yours. What did you use for a temperature switch (or to plug the hole)? Do you know the size and thread pitch of the hole on your rad?
My radiator has a threaded boss which seems to be 7/8"-16, which is not a standard thread. I can't find anything to fit the hole. I emailed the company, but they don't reply. At this point I'm just looking to plug the hole. I have found an oil pan drain plug for an early 50s flathead Ford that fits, but it is steel and I'd rather use aluminum, or brass as last resort.
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Trevor, I'm intrigued by the honeycomb design of the screen. I always had a suspicion that the metal stock screen may have some effect on air flow but your calculation is an eye opener. I have my refurbished stock radiator back from the radiator shop and will investigate this material thanks for the info. For those thinking of re-coring your stock radiator, be aware that the cost has gone up considerably from years past. You can buy 2-1/2 aluminum radiators for the cost of a re-core. But then this may just be a California thing.
Did some checking and I found a source of the screens sold by Speedway Motors:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Nomex-Honeycomb-Radiator-Guard-Protector-Screen-Mesh-19-x-26,3545.html
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My radiator is aluminum but I purchased it through a group buy.
My radiator is also a Saldana, purchased through a group-buy on the yahoo site about nine years ago, though curiously it looks quite different from yours. What did you use for a temperature switch (or to plug the hole)? Do you know the size and thread pitch of the hole on your rad?
My radiator has a threaded boss which seems to be 7/8"-16, which is not a standard thread. I can't find anything to fit the hole. I emailed the company, but they don't reply. At this point I'm just looking to plug the hole. I have found an oil pan drain plug for an early 50s flathead Ford that fits, but it is steel and I'd rather use aluminum, or brass as last resort.
I have the drawing of the radiator in my archives. I'll post it when I find it. I bought a steel plug with the correct thread (I don't remember what it is) and the drilled it and tapped it for 1/4 or 3/8" fpt and threaded in a temperature probe for my fan controller.
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A couple of comments about flow through the radiator. For those driving unrestored cars or older restorations, it is worth checking for a build-up of debris (bug carcasses, dirt & silt, and other junk) between the AFT face of the radiator and the protective screen. It's a bit of a forgotten area but a collection of junk here can significantly impede flow.
Perhaps more interestingly, another impedance to flow may be the screen itself. I recently fitted a new aluminum radiator, and wondered how much of a flow restriction may be created by the rather chunky screen itself. I did some math and was astonished to find that, of the window described by the border of the screen, more than half, 53%, was covered by the screen wire. Finding this hard to believe I tackled the math from another direction and came up with 57% coverage. This is an incredible number.
I Figure that considerable improvements to cooling system performance could be gained here. When I bought my radiator, the maker also offered a very lightweight, honeycomb membrane screen that provides almost no resistance to air flow. I was uncertain about using this seemingly flimsy material to protect my rad, but it is sold to dirt track racers to protect radiators, so it must be able to withstand significant abuse. I made up a new screen from this stuff and fitted it with velcro so it could be removed occasionally for cleaning. I have since emailed the company to ask what this stuff is called, and where can I get more of it, but they have not replied. Anyway, thought I'd pass this along.
2nd on nomex honeycomb
You can find it direct from various suppliers like Hexcel
https://www.hexcel.com/Products/Honeycomb/ (https://www.hexcel.com/Products/Honeycomb/)
or on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nomex-Kevlar-Honeycomb-Aerospace-Grade-0-5-X-18-X-24-1-8-Cell-6-PCF/153519618251?hash=item23be7b78cb:g:NsQAAOSwkDdc~Dbz (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nomex-Kevlar-Honeycomb-Aerospace-Grade-0-5-X-18-X-24-1-8-Cell-6-PCF/153519618251?hash=item23be7b78cb:g:NsQAAOSwkDdc~Dbz)
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My radiator is aluminum but I purchased it through a group buy.
My radiator is also a Saldana, purchased through a group-buy on the yahoo site about nine years ago, though curiously it looks quite different from yours. What did you use for a temperature switch (or to plug the hole)? Do you know the size and thread pitch of the hole on your rad?
My radiator has a threaded boss which seems to be 7/8"-16, which is not a standard thread. I can't find anything to fit the hole. I emailed the company, but they don't reply. At this point I'm just looking to plug the hole. I have found an oil pan drain plug for an early 50s flathead Ford that fits, but it is steel and I'd rather use aluminum, or brass as last resort.
I found going though my old emails that the drawing was faxed to me in 2010. I am glad that era is over.
Anyway, the thread is indeed 7/8-16. I bought the attached drain plug and drilled and tapped it 3/8 fpt for a temperature sensor to go to my fan controller.
It looks like it is available on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Holland-Plug-Drain-C5NE6730B/dp/B01J6CFKCK
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I've thought about a louver arrangement of some sort instead of the wire mesh.
This example is a little complicated, but the idea looks good.
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I found going though my old emails that the drawing was faxed to me in 2010. I am glad that era is over.
Anyway, the thread is indeed 7/8-16. I bought the attached drain plug and drilled and tapped it 3/8 fpt for a temperature sensor to go to my fan controller.
It looks like it is available on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Holland-Plug-Drain-C5NE6730B/dp/B01J6CFKCK
Many thanks for this! I measured it to be 7/8"-16, and bought a drain plug similar to the one you posted, but it didn't thread in as smoothly as I thought it should so I wondered if it was something even weirder. I talked to a local machinist and he is going to carve out a copy of the plug in aluminium. A pretty expensive way to fill a hole, but at this point I just want to get it done. I may eventually drill & tap it as you did to fit a temp switch, if I decide to fit one at all.
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2nd on nomex honeycomb
You can find it direct from various suppliers like Hexcel
https://www.hexcel.com/Products/Honeycomb/ (https://www.hexcel.com/Products/Honeycomb/)
or on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nomex-Kevlar-Honeycomb-Aerospace-Grade-0-5-X-18-X-24-1-8-Cell-6-PCF/153519618251?hash=item23be7b78cb:g:NsQAAOSwkDdc~Dbz (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nomex-Kevlar-Honeycomb-Aerospace-Grade-0-5-X-18-X-24-1-8-Cell-6-PCF/153519618251?hash=item23be7b78cb:g:NsQAAOSwkDdc~Dbz)
Thanks for the info and links, Chuck, and for the endorsement. Thanks also to Joji for the link. I want to buy some more, but had no idea what this stuff might be called or what it's original purpose might be. It's fascinating stuff, and appears to be very tough. Every time I hold it in my hands, I conjure up potential uses for it. I'm thinking of making a set of engine cover vent grills. In addition to it's many favourable characteristics, it also looks cool, and would make great grill material if painted black.
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2nd on nomex honeycomb
You can find it direct from various suppliers like Hexcel
https://www.hexcel.com/Products/Honeycomb/ (https://www.hexcel.com/Products/Honeycomb/)
or on ebay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nomex-Kevlar-Honeycomb-Aerospace-Grade-0-5-X-18-X-24-1-8-Cell-6-PCF/153519618251?hash=item23be7b78cb:g:NsQAAOSwkDdc~Dbz (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nomex-Kevlar-Honeycomb-Aerospace-Grade-0-5-X-18-X-24-1-8-Cell-6-PCF/153519618251?hash=item23be7b78cb:g:NsQAAOSwkDdc~Dbz)
Thanks for the info and links, Chuck, and for the endorsement. Thanks also to Joji for the link. I want to buy some more, but had no idea what this stuff might be called or what it's original purpose might be. It's fascinating stuff, and appears to be very tough. Every time I hold it in my hands, I conjure up potential uses for it. I'm thinking of making a set of engine cover vent grills. In addition to it's many favourable characteristics, it also looks cool, and would make great grill material if painted black.
I had that very thought both for the front grill for the TCS an S2 and the rear screen for the S2 and painting the screen black.
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For eBay aluminum radiators, a coolant temperature switch for a 1982/83 Nissan Sentra and 1983/84 Pulsar should work. They are readily available in the USA. eBay has them starting at $10 with shipping.
- Size -- 16x1.5mm
- On temperature -- 183oF/ 84oC to 196oF/ 91oC (The switch mounts near the bottom hose/ radiator entrance side)
Specs here - https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHFS149
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Turns out the alloy radiator for the red car uses M18x1.5.
Not common as an auto part but apparently used for motorcycles.
I found these on feeBay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/224830395995?itmmeta=01HR69KD0S84XYPWMHK6DPMZB4&hash=item3458ef965b:g:BbcAAOSwkKRiA-wL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PsgIlM29eZIINkVz8DY3daPHwpW%2FdWsc1Z2HMYvL9es49171bormUSOEL7a%2FvGEUniBaL6CriHOvIthAIQUFHWyJ6CYmazybL4Bv9QjNR29yoTf%2BMTdOCMQXjRZBz6BeBJqKUAoeav248Tvo%2B9L%2BXHkA2SwTnQKya23a3QUAqr8PlL8obu7NVX0g8NRv2HP8ozPcQJ9PgrqCiFrsXx%2B4%2BWAX9hTHZ1ShNFL0Kjy7zZohGvGs2jmgi0LYWcmwIVRDqVaC75o%2BH%2BMpCp540NSCiz8H4Fo0hcVPyQCfxMVu5zi%7Ctkp%3ABFBM8NDNycFj (https://www.ebay.com/itm/224830395995?itmmeta=01HR69KD0S84XYPWMHK6DPMZB4&hash=item3458ef965b:g:BbcAAOSwkKRiA-wL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4PsgIlM29eZIINkVz8DY3daPHwpW%2FdWsc1Z2HMYvL9es49171bormUSOEL7a%2FvGEUniBaL6CriHOvIthAIQUFHWyJ6CYmazybL4Bv9QjNR29yoTf%2BMTdOCMQXjRZBz6BeBJqKUAoeav248Tvo%2B9L%2BXHkA2SwTnQKya23a3QUAqr8PlL8obu7NVX0g8NRv2HP8ozPcQJ9PgrqCiFrsXx%2B4%2BWAX9hTHZ1ShNFL0Kjy7zZohGvGs2jmgi0LYWcmwIVRDqVaC75o%2BH%2BMpCp540NSCiz8H4Fo0hcVPyQCfxMVu5zi%7Ctkp%3ABFBM8NDNycFj)
Fitment:
For Kawasaki KLR650 2008-2018
For KTM 690 Duke 2008-2019
For KTM 690 SMC R 2019-2021
For KTM 690 Enduro / Enduro R 2008-2021
For KTM 950/990 Adventure / Adventure S / Supermoto 2003-2013
For KTM 1190 RC8 / RC8R 2010-2014
For Husqvarna 701 Supermoto / Enduro / Vitpilen / Svartpilen 2016-2021
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I, too, have joined the ChinaAluRad club - for just $119 (offer accepted) including fan on eBay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/255114386948
Just arrived and it looks fine - just like the others pictured in this thread, and also identical to what several other eBay sellers are showing for the same price - just different logos over the same stock photos.
As Richard48Y noted, mine also has an M18 bung thread, which is not what the seller told me before I bought it, so now I have a new Beck/Arnley M22 switch to give away if anyone wants a spare.
As noted, M18s are harder to find unless you look at motorcycle parts. This one is now on its way here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/374266079541
Cheers,
Ron
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Too bad no one seems to be able to provide the matching plug.
I will be soldering wires to mine then encapsulate them in epoxy.