Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => Garage => Topic started by: wilkrod on Monday,February 13, 2023, 10:11:42 AM
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Hi All,
Just recently discovered that my wheel nuts are different.
Anyone know why?
Which is correct?
Many thanks.
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Are these for the Brand Lotus wheels?
The set I have for Brand Lotus look more like the right one.
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+1 on Kendo, What wheels do you have?
Regardless of the nut, you do have washers for them, right?
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Guys,
Thanks for the response.
Yes, Lotus wheels, and yes correct washer for them.
I am baffled why they would have different length shanks.
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Someone lost one and found a replacement that would work. A lot happens in 50 years.
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r.d. makes stainless steel reproductions. There may be other reproductions too and they may be a little different.
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My originals are like the one on the right in your pic.
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Just an update.
I inspected all the wheel nuts, half are the long shank, half short shank.
The short shank nuts will not always torque to 40 ft/lb.
The long shank nuts will
The rear axle has new studs on both sides, no striped threads.
Total confusion.
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The short shank bolts will not torque to 40 ft/lbs because...
Are their threads stripped?
AFAIK, the correct torque is 45 ft/lbs.
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I inspected all the threads, cleaned them, none are stripped, studs, and nuts. Thread chaser goes easily in all nuts/bolts.
My owners manual, states 40-45 ft/lbs.
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What happens when they won't torque to 40 ft/lbs.
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The nuts on the rear of mine stripped when I tried to torque them to 40. The studs don't stick as far out of the wheels on the rear, I assume it's because of the thickness of the drums. I replaced all mine with longer shank versions.
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What happens when they won't torque to 40 ft/lbs.
When trying to torque the short shank bolts, I can feel it taking less torque to turn the nut, so I stop. I then install one of the long shank nuts, it torques fine.
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The nuts on the rear of mine stripped when I tried to torque them to 40. The studs don't stick as far out of the wheels on the rear, I assume it's because of the thickness of the drums. I replaced all mine with longer shank versions.
Now thats interesting because I have a 50/50 split of long/short shanks. I took all four wheels off at the same time, and just dumped the nuts in a bag. I believe I will look at the front vs. rear, and see if I put all the long shanks on the back the issue is resolved. Thanks for the input!
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While on the subject of nuts...what is the correct torque for the old stamped steel S1/S2 rims?
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45 ft/lbs
It's based on the thread size: 3/8"x24 (UNF). It all works well as long as you don't use an impact gun to install them. Torque them properly and they will never fail.
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This was a bit more interesting than I anticipated.
To my mind, the specified torque is determined by the size of the fastener and the S1 manual says to torque for a 3/8 UNF bolt should be 22 - 27 ft-lbs. It does not give a spec for the lug nuts at all. The TC manual also give s torque value of 22 - 27 ft-lbs. for 3/8 UNF bolts (why would it change?) but also says the 3/8 UNF lug nuts for the alloy wheels should be 40 - 45 ft-lbs. It gives no guidance for steel wheels that I could find.
I would use the 40 - 45 ft-lbs for steel wheels also. If the stud can take that torque for an aluminum wheel, it can take it for a steel one and 22 - 27 ft-lbs just seems too low.
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All,
Issue resolved!
With the long shank nuts on the rears, and short up front, everything torqued to 40 ft/lb , no issues.
My car was born a T/C, but over the years it has acquired many "Special" components, rear brake cylinders as an example. So I don't know if this issue is a result of some unknown "Special" component necessitating the use of the longer shank bolts on the rear or what.
Many thanks to all who responded, and set me on the path to enlightenment.
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Glad you are sorted. :beerchug: