1969 S2 Europa Hill climb car - 700whp Turbo Honda K24 swap

[BDA]

Very interesting!! Very nicely done!! 

[Taimoshan]

Well, not the most productive day, lots of fiddly little things to fix, however I did get the body off again and machined up some Ali grommets to bond into the fibreglass in where the body bolts to the front cross member and will support the Cantilever suspension unit.  The front cantilever with bolt down via 2x 10mm high tensile Rivnuts set in each side of the cross member

[Kendo]

Finally a use for those “ears” on the head.

I like those wood L brackets you use to mock up where the hubs go; simple and gets the job done. Thanks for detailing all of this. I’ll never get to your level of automotive engineering. So it’s great to ride along on your process.

[dakazman]

 
  I too, what gearbox are you using? 
   What part of Jersey is more important, I am being a native to her.
     I'm still going over your pics, and I need to digest it all. Good work
Dakazman

[Taimoshan]

  I too, what gearbox are you using? 
   What part of Jersey is more important, I am being a native to her.
     I'm still going over your pics, and I need to digest it all. Good work
Dakazman

Gearbox is a 6 speed Audi 01E transaxle with a Kennedy Engineering K24 for 01E adapter kit, custom flywheel and 750 ftlb race clutch.  Still needs to be rebuilt and WaveTrack LSD added.

For clarity, I am in Jersey (the Chanel Islands just off the Normady coast of France)

Thanks

[Taimoshan]

Had a more productive day in the garage today.

Tasks completed:
1) Rear body brackets, removed and new ones bent and welded in about an inch further forward, which raises the rear section of the body the 40mm I need.
2) Studs for front hubs pressed out of the hub as they were sitting about 0.5mm proud of the back surface which the brake disc hats need to seat against.   I bought some replacement studs and then ground the heads down 1mm to they sit just below the face, then drilled out the holes to 12.5mm and press them in with the shop press.
3) Re assemble the front hubs and temp mounted the Wilwood discs and took the final measurements needed for ordering the wheels.
4) Rear brake disc hats are a universal item, that is un drilled and had to be machined to fit.  The biggest challenge was my lathe is too small and so had the tedious task of boring the centre hole from both sides, meeting in the middle. It worked, still need to find someone local to drill the 112mm PCD wheel stud holes or buy a divider or milling turn table to drill them myself. But it did get to far enough to get the rear wheel measurements for the brake caliper clearance

[Taimoshan]

Hi All,

sorry its been a few weeks since the last update, but have been traveling for work and waiting on parts.

Anyway, more recently I have been working on building an alternative to the 4-1 "sidewinder" exhaust I purchased.

Looking at the sidewinder and the size of the GT45 turbo, I felt I was going get a bit of turbo lag, especially when using the larger turbo. The sidewinder manifold also placed the GT45 too high in the engine bay and so give me clearance issues under the rear engine cover.

The solution was so to design and build my own stainless shorty manifold to get both turbos (GT35 and GT45, depending which one I am running at the time) as close to the engine exhaust ports as possible while still having a free flowing  manifold.

Some other design specs I had to consider.

1) I needed a T4 flange and to accommodate the GT45 T4 Turbo and exhaust flow.
2)  I also wanted to be able to interchange the GT35 (T3) and GT45 (T4) using only a T4-T3 adaptor and without changing manifold .

There were a few log manifold I found on the internet, but decided that the flow characteristics of the log style manifold, where the pulse collide head on at the collector was  going to limit my exhaust flow and therefore power output, so I designed my own "shorty" full flow manifold  that transitioned from the small dia primary tubes to a large dia mini collector. In its first version, it put the turbos 6" from the head. 

I think that if I can keep the charge pipes via the intercooler short as possible and dia the charge tube dia and intercooler port dia to each of the turbos I can minimise the potential for lag.

So here are the pics of the process for the first version 1.0, which unfortunately once fitted the turbos were too far out into the engine bay causing interference with the inter guard and too close to the fuel tank.

Version 2.0 to come

 

[Taimoshan]

Now on to version 2.0 as 6" long was too much, new target 4"

Basically, I cut off the exhaust flange at the head + 1/2" and cut the T4 turbo flange off +1" off the mini collector, then tilted the new T4 flange back toward the head on the top side at the same angle as the motor is laid over to the exhaust side, that gave me the extra 1/2", so shortened the manifold the target 2", getting both turbos within the engine bay "envelope" i need albeit still a squeeze. 

You can see from the pics that the inside of the manifold in ported to blend the transitions to the the flanges as the mini collector when cut down and at an angle increase the cross sectional area to significantly larger than the T4 std port. Also I use a T4 to T3 adaptor flange to sit between the T4 manifold flange and the T3 turbo housing to keep the overall length as short as possible. I seems to work/fit pretty well and will allow a very quick swap between turbos if needed. 

This solution has not created another problem to solve ie where to place the 44mm waste gate port as it was going to T off the Mini collector section, but now that is too short. 

I have some ideas, but will show you the placement when done.

[TurboFource]

Nice work!

[TurboFource]

I am trying to keep my intake side as short as possible as I am keeping it old Skool draw through turbo in the spirit of it's original 1975 build.

I am only shooting for 200hp though.

[Taimoshan]

I am trying to keep my intake side as short as possible as I am keeping it old Skool draw through turbo in the spirit of it's original 1975 build.

I am only shooting for 200hp though.

Interesting approach to the same problem of turbo lag.   The fuel  load in the charge air through the turbo, might have a cooling effect and keep IAT down a little.  What boost are you planning to run and what size is the turbo?

I have a 2.5" inlet/outlet  intercooler on order, which is also a smaller core than the 3" In/out monster in the pics, the small one will support 5-600hp and the large one 1200hp, over kill probably, but better having cool charge air than hot in my view.  I will also be running a complex fuel system of 2 tanks, 2 pumps, 2 fuel rails etc , one will run pump gas through smallish injectors 500-550cc and E85 from the second tank via a separate fuel system and 1400cc injectors , the 2nd rail will come on only when boost get above about 5psi. The E85 and water to air intercooler should keep detonation away under even moderate boost of 25-30psi. 20psi should get me to around 650+ hp

[TurboFource]

It’s a 60 trim T3 with .48 exhaust housing (I have a billet compressor wheel etc. that will go in it when I rebuild it) Going to start at around 7 lbs till it’s well sorted out then start bumping up the boost…will run a modem methanol/alcohol injection vs the setup from 1975 and programmable ignition….the original owner was running 10 lbs with spikes in boost higher than that

[Bainford]

Wow! There's a lot going on there. This is going to be a wicked machine. Nice looking work.

[Clifton]

Super cool. I know how much research, thought and work goes into something so far from stock.

 I know you probably want to work that external WG in somewhere but for what it's worth, the 4.0 Ford Barra's use a GT3582 with internal gate. I'm running a GTX3584 with a Barra style internal wastegate housing to keep the plumbing simple. The 3584mm is worth a few more HP over the 82. The Barra housing won't work with the larger GTX turbine though, have to use the standard GT35.

Is it going to be road legal too?
What EFI? I know some have TC, are you planning on running it?
You said measured to order wheels. That diameter and width and tires?
 
Looking forward to any pics you post.

[Taimoshan]

Super cool. I know how much research, thought and work goes into something so far from stock.

 I know you probably want to work that external WG in somewhere but for what it's worth, the 4.0 Ford Barra's use a GT3582 with internal gate. I'm running a GTX3584 with a Barra style internal wastegate housing to keep the plumbing simple. The 3584mm is worth a few more HP over the 82. The Barra housing won't work with the larger GTX turbine though, have to use the standard GT35.

Is it going to be road legal too?
What EFI? I know some have TC, are you planning on running it?
You said measured to order wheels. That diameter and width and tires?
 
Looking forward to any pics you post.

I love the Barra, I am an Aussie  Actually the solution to WG problem is an Aussie one, a number of the Barra boys are welding the WG tube into the scroll of the hot side, this is a good option as it provides a better flow path into the WG pipe, only problem is finding a turbo blanket to fit around the WG pipe. I am probably going to run the turbosmart straight through electronic wastegate for ultimate control.

Yes the car will be road "legal"ish as I have the UK reg papers for the car and should be able to get it registered under the classic reg that does not require and MOT now in the UK. If I get that before taking to Jersey should be ok.

EFI is the Megasquirt Pro unit, I used these units on many applications over the last 15 years, so its what I know well and they are damn capable and super cheap v their functionality

https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ms3pro-ultimate-standalone-engine-management-system/

My rear hubs and CV are Audi to match the 01E transaxle and have a trigger wheel on the them so if I fit a hall effect sensor I could run TC, but probably not going to. The solution (and I might be dreaming) is lots of rubber and light vehicle weight and the trick wavetrack LSD.

Wheels are 12 x 15" rear and 10 x 15" fronts which will let me run some series rubber. Front Avons are 255 and rear 325 tread width.   https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/p917-alloy-wheel/. These are the biggest I could fit while maintaining space between the frame and wheel for the underbody aero.

(Thought I would add some example pics of hot side housings with external WG ports , so show what I plan to do )