Restoration of 74 TCS - 044615R

[racurley]

Yeah, there were apparently a few gaps in our labeling of parts.  Overall, I think we've done a pretty good job with it but not having the experience of actually rebuilding it, I think there are some details I would follow better. 

Anyways, I have that diagram in my Wilkins book.  Unfortunately, it appears that all three of my sprockets have the timing mark aligned with the gap between the teeth.   

Interestingly, in looking at a couple of parts suppliers, they don't distinguish between the sprockets on the intake and exhaust.   I think I will ask the guy at RD Ent. to take a look.

[TurboFource]

And you can't take too many pictures!! It's amazing what you can forget when something has been apart for a couple of years!!

I thought I had taken plenty of  pictures ....

[jbcollier]

How about the mark's relationship to the key way?

[racurley]

How about the mark's relationship to the key way?

I believe that is the answer (assuming I know what a key way is).  George from RD Enterprises sent me the diagram below that shows the timing mark for the exhaust sprocket is one tooth off from square where the input is square.  So, I seem to have the sprockets in the right places.  Yay.  Thanks for the feedback!

[jbcollier]

Excellent!

[racurley]

I feel like I should know how to do this but not having success.  There is a circlip that goes on the end of the intake camshaft in a groove just past the oil seal.  This circlip is just a ring with a cut in it basically so maybe a spring clip is a better term.  My regular circlip tool doesn't seem to be of much use since there are no holes on this.  Any tips on installing this?  I keep imagining the ring going SPROING and ending up somewhere in my garage.

I have managed to get the head mounted on the block and the timing chain installed.  So, making progress!

[jbcollier]

Slip on end on and then spiral the rest of the clip on.  Once it is on the shaft, use a length of tubing to push it into place.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PULLEY NUT.

[racurley]

Thanks.  That was just some effort with the thumbs to get it on.  Ok, now for the real question. Head is bolted/torqued to the body, valve clearances adjusted, camshafts bolted on and torqued, timing chain connected to the camshaft sprockets, cams resting on cylinder 4 valves facing each other, crankshaft is aligned at TDC mark, chain tension adjusted to 1/2".  When I rotate the engine from the crankshaft (clockwise) so it returns to the TDC mark 2x and the camshaft sprocket marks should be facing each other again, I find the input sprocket is just slightly not back to the starting point.  Seems to happen when I first start to turn and and some slack is taken up.  There is no slack between exhaust cam sprocket and crankshaft so as I turn the crank, the exhaust starts to turn and it takes up the 1/2" of slack and then everything turns.  Once it comes all the way around, I can turn the intake manually a little and the slack will come back and the alignment marks will be closer.  I've attached the instructions and diagrams from the Wilkins book that I'm using for reference.   Maybe I am a tooth off with the intake?  I don't believe they took too much metal the mating surfaces and I have the original camshafts.  Recommendations?

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[jbcollier]

That is indeed a tooth off on the intake cam.

[racurley]

Ok, I've worked on this for quite a while, taken a break, and then gone back at it and have not figured it out.  There must be something I'm missing.

I line the cams up with the sprockets on so the marks are aligned (facing each other) and crank is at TDC.  I remove the sprockets.  Put the chain on the exhaust sprocket so the chain is taught with the crank.  I have the tension adjuster removed to ensure it's not adding anything.  When I go to put the intake sprocket on, I just can't seem to make it work regardless of which side of it I leave the tension in the chain. 

The last time I actually go the chain on it seemed aligned.  When I applied the tensioner to take the slack out of the chain between the sprockets, it seemed to rotate the intake sprocket counter-clockwise as it took up the slack.  Then, when I went to rotate the crank, it started to turn the exhaust side and then the intake moved with it once the slack was gone.  Seems like I need to initially align the intake with the marker slightly below the edge (rotated clockwise a couple of degrees) so that when the slack is taken up by the tensioner it will be pulled back into the correct position.  Maybe the same with the exhaust side (but counter-clockwise) to offset the movement when I turn the crank?

I don't know.  Pretty frustrating.

[jbcollier]

Get it so it looks like the picture you posted.

Mark the intake chain and sprocket.

Loosen the tensioner.

Gently remove the intake camshaft sprocket and move it in relation to the chain one tooth.

Refit the intake cam sprocket (you may have to turn the intake cam slightly).

It now should be correct.

[Bryan Boyle]

Slip on end on and then spiral the rest of the clip on.  Once it is on the shaft, use a length of tubing to push it into place.

DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PULLEY NUT.

Assuming (I know..) that you tighten the alternator pulley bolt until it just touches the ring? 

[jbcollier]

There is no torque specified.  I would "snug" it up and no more.  Use an serrated, vibration-proof lock washer.

[Bryan Boyle]

There is no torque specified.  I would "snug" it up and no more.  Use an serrated, vibration-proof lock washer.

Meant the depth of the flange on the back of the pulley; assume you tighten the bolt until it pulls the pulley in to just (barely) touch the ring.  Good idea for a serrated washer.

[racurley]

Here is my painted valve cover.  I think it turned out nicely. 

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