dumb (or unobvious solution) question

[Bryan Boyle]

Federal TCS.  Brake master cylinder.  How in blazes do you get to the top nut to release it without dropping the steering rack (which, in itself, is a pain, since you have to have double elbow joints to get through that 5" hole in the front of the box to hold on to the bolt heads for the rack mount bolts.)

I can not believe (well, maybe I can...not my first Lotus) this is what needs be done.

Guidance is appreciated.  Will be putting in my store of 'here's how it's done' for paying it forward some day.

(If anyone wants a set of OEM armstrong front shocks with the OEM springs...let me know; they're yours for the shipping)

[bjthomp]

There is a post in "Random Europa Sightings" re. a Hagerty article that deals with this subject. The post was put up on 5/17. The author removed his MC without removing the rack.

[Bryan Boyle]

There is a post in "Random Europa Sightings" re. a Hagerty article that deals with this subject. The post was put up on 5/17. The author removed his MC without removing the rack.

Rob Siegel...yeah...pretty much end up having to use the F10 MC (I also have a .75 triumph unit)...thinking that removing the rack (I've the rest of the front suspension totally in pieces down to the only thing attached to the front box are the steering rack, MC, and brake lines...) is not necessarily (except for that aforementioned double elbow thing...) the worst thing I could do right now.

[Fotog]

You don't have to remove the rack.  I can't give more detailed instructions; it's been several years since I removed the master cylinder.  But I didn't find it to be too bad.  There are other things that people do that seem more daunting to me.  Like changing the rear brake hoses.  How do you get to them without double elbows?

I can say, you can't use a socket wrench.  And I think short wrenches are helpful.  But I didn't really have a problem.  Have at it!

[Kendo]

Early in my TCS ownership, I changed to a .70" master because of not having any boosters. And I didn't do anything with the rack. I probably removed the closing plate. But it was in the early '90's. So memory has faded.

[Bryan Boyle]

Early in my TCS ownership, I changed to a .70" master because of not having any boosters. And I didn't do anything with the rack. I probably removed the closing plate. But it was in the early '90's. So memory has faded.

Did take down the closing plate...Think I'm going to go with Rob's suggestion and just drain the master, remove the two screws that hold the back of the reservoir, twist it out of the way, grind down a 1/2" cheapie box wrench and go with that.  Need to order the remote reservoirs and hoses, etc.  I believe it's not necessarily the bundy that was leaking; while under there, saw brake fluid drips from the bottom mounting bolt, so thinking the seals have finally given up the ghost...

Wonder if this is going to complicate using the gunnison to bleed out the system.  Will see.  Nothing's easy (rebuilding front uprights is a doddle compared to this...).

[Lotuswins]

Now that you suggested cutting a cheapy wrench down, IIRC, I did exactly that to get that top nut off.  I didn't move the reservoir though.   Make sure you bench bleed the M/C before putting it back up!!  Isn't the upper hole on the mounting flange a larger diameter?  It seems like they had a special nut for the top stud.....or a special stepped washer. 

Jerry Rude
4005R

[Bryan Boyle]

Now that you suggested cutting a cheapy wrench down, IIRC, I did exactly that to get that top nut off.  I didn't move the reservoir though.   Make sure you bench bleed the M/C before putting it back up!!  Isn't the upper hole on the mounting flange a larger diameter?  It seems like they had a special nut for the top stud.....or a special stepped washer. 

Jerry Rude
4005R

Looks like the same 1/2" nut.  I know that the S2 has a different mount arrangement (discounting the angle box that moves the master out into the nose) but this looks like just being held on by 2 1/2" nylocs.  Bottom one is nice and loose (no doubt due to being soaked in brake fluid..).  I have the F10 master (and someone somewhere along the lines installed metric to sae adapters!  Yay!), the remote reservoirs (i got the 6oz medium size...the more the merrier), remote mounts, the proper brake fluid resistant hose, caps (an extra one in case the gunnison adapter caps aren't the right size for the tilton kit and I have to adapt to fit the tilton reservoir, and the proper clamps.  The F10 already has the tilton adapters, so, good to go there.

I figure grinding down along the edge and making it thinner (about the thickness of a tappet wrench...or call my local snap-on guy and pick up a 1/2" tappet wrench and just modify the width).  It will be a project.  Of course, it would be easier if I just pulled the body, right?