1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  Broadside, glad to hear that , one day you should post a picture or post a video on Instagram, you tube . .
  Thanks Turbo, 😀
  Worked on the water pipe routing today and a few changes to the heat shield. The lower mounting nuts with the spring washers were extremely difficult to install so I had to elongate the slots and I went with shorter studs, ones that allow you to hang the nut on.
   I found a perfect hose that really increased the space away from the header and angle joining to the forward pipe all for $7.
Dakazman

[lotusfanatic]

Wow!

100 Pages Dave! 

[Pete]

Looking great!
You know your using your GM jack. Where do you position it up front when jacking the front up? Does it fit under the car?

[dakazman]

Lotusfanatic ,
    Thank you !  I saw that last night. I didn’t think I was that long winded and thought about my earlier post in the members section dealing with the mechanical sections of the frame and engines  . I really need to make up a index for it all a maybe lotus Joe can insert it in the front .

 For a tiny car it sure has a lot of pieces .

Pete , yes it does fit under easily with approximately 2” to spare.  It is only for emergency use. As JB stated , these cars are light.  now that mine is getting back together I personally suggest never getting underneath without proper jacks. While working under mine, while still on the ground, tightened something and found myself holding the car in place with my other hand, while it tried to get away.
    Some lotus owners say even when your tires have 0 psi the tires are still not flattened and can be driven home.  They don’t even have a spare or Jack in a daily driver.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

   Finished up water line modifications and reinstalled manifold save for a few fine thread nuts that don’t want to go on the studs. Seems like a slightly different thread. The air box may also interfere a bit but I’m still looking for one to buy.
 Started routing fuel lines, ( not using copper) they are for easily bending the route.I’ll also secure in place along it’s route.  The tank outlet is 1/4 I.D. and the pump inlet and outlet is also 1/4” . Should I go with all way with 1/4 lines to the carb ?  Anyone see any potential problems in the route? I’ll be bending up all steel lines.
Dakazman 

[Broadside]

Your coolant lines look pretty similar to how I've done mine 
Is your heatshield just mounted off the bottom carb studs? I imagine that to be a tricky install, getting the nuts in.......

[dakazman]

  Yes it is , I just added that hose section  above  to push it further away . however I pulled the manifold off and attached the carb then replaced the manifold on the studs . It was never torqued just placed, much easier to attach carb with shield.

Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Keep the fuel lines as far as possible from heat (like the engine).  As the carb gets roasted, it might be helpful to move the return line to right next to the carb to help the fuel in the line stay cool.

[dakazman]

   Thanks JB , absolutely. The line directly above the carb need to be turned 180 degrees sorry for the bad pic , I don’t cut off the excess of the copper lines only Mark the end points with marker. It’s on my list of things to buy along with linkage.
  I was shopping for an air box for the Weber carb but wanted a filter part number to see if I can source it later, but that is a lost cause. I don’t want one that you can just clean and reinstall.
I did find a filter but it would barely go over the  velocity stacks. The K&N may be a good candidate.
But if anyone has a number that works please chime in.

  Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Fabricated a new pedal support plate and close out panel for the underside today . Also Devised a plan of attack on attaching the last two brake lines to master cylinder that I took off when I dropped the body on.
  Welding it on tomorrow.
Dakazman

[dakazman]

   Pedals installed yesterday along with welding up the lower plate.  With a spare tire installed there is not much room for the close-out panel and the sway bar... is this normal?
  Took a little setback with the crashpad trying to , “fix-it” . Long story but it’s now fitting nicely and both sides are contoured correctly.
  Today went a different direction, my garage layout was not working and I needed to play Tetris with tools, stands, and tool boxes. Even substituted the wife’s car in place of my El Camino for summer time parking.😎😂🖐

Dakazman

[EuropaTC]

With a spare tire installed there is not much room for the close-out panel and the sway bar... is this normal?

It's hard to tell from the photo angle, it looks like your roll bar is very far forward. Although mine's a TC so they might be different, I don't know.  But this is how my car looks...

Brian

[SilverBeast]

   With a spare tire installed there is not much room for the close-out panel and the sway bar... is this normal?

(i) It might be an optical illusion/photographic aberation, but is the centre section of your sway bar straight? It looks curved  to me and I think it's supposed to be straight.
(ii) Do the drop links come straight down vertically from the top shock mount? The rubber bush on the sway bar to drop link should be on the wheel side of the pip on the sway bar. I can't tell as these aren't on the photo, though the very edge of the drop link is visible on the right and I can't see the pips. When I got my car my drop links were the wrong side of this and the drop links were not vertical, and it didn't have the closing plate.

Richard   

[dakazman]

  Brian,  Thanks for the picture, I have an s2 with a 15mm sway bar . Yours looks like the thicker version.  My height measured 24.75 mm or 9 3/4”.

Richard, It definitely bows forward . The drop links move slightly with force on the sway bar even with new bushes. One side was inward more so than the other.  It was heavily rusted and could now be undersized measuring 9/16” or 14.28 mm .
 
   I also added a bend to help reinforce the new panel , but the panel is an exact duplicate of the original only lighter.  It does fit but I would think it would have a bit more clearance.

Dakazman

 

[dakazman]

   After I installed the pedal assembly I’ve been pulling some old purchases and original parts off the shelves and make some sense of them.  Accelerator pedal attach points of the cable and the choke cable with the new Weber .

  Clutch cable bought several months back and packed away with the bracket. I pulled up the manual and some old post . It’s a work in progress because I also have a clutch slave cylinder and a master of some sort that was in one of the baskets of parts.

   Brake lines , that I removed from a new master cylinder that was installed on the frame when fabricating the lines worked well. Removed the temporary lines when dropping the body on , today started fabricating line that run outboard of the master cylinder to the front of the t section. It wasn’t long before I realized that the wheel well area would have to be bent slightly and re-glassed.
Cut and bent glass to gain better access to the cylinder, then routed the two lines but since I started late in the day didn’t finish.  So much for my , “ Get her done advice “
  Tomorrow is another day and I’ll have plenty to finish up.