Author Topic: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly  (Read 154493 times)

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Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1110 on: Tuesday,July 21, 2020, 05:58:10 AM »
   BDA,  It’s not polished, Just cleaned with WD-40 and 1-3000 grit . I was pleasantly happy with the results.
  JB , the machinist said , do to the way I intend to drive car , Sunday’s and car shows ,Balancing not necessary.  I’m going to explain this new set of circumstances with him do to all new pistons and liners going in . The chemise Kit does not have any information with them other than being assembled with Piston/rings in It’s liner.
 After reading the ultimate wedge in the paddock area I’ve been researching what crankshaft lightning is and benefits . I came across The knife edge gimmick videos on YouTube .
Dakazman

Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1111 on: Friday,July 24, 2020, 05:23:35 PM »
  Got a go ahead from the machinist for crankshaft. Not balancing required, and also  some tips on a new tool for me to assemble. It’s for inserting the wrist pin after heating the rod. Place the piston with the old wrist pin on the pad and set the piston against the bottom brace. set the stop bolt for height and Depth in piston.  Heating the rod with a yellow  flame Of an acetylene torch just enough to see a slightly red change. Making sure correct orientation is observed run the wrist pin through piston.
Heating piston may help.
   Other progress :?My console is ready for paint and door panel covering sewn up and ready to be secured to door cards.
Dakazman

Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1112 on: Sunday,July 26, 2020, 04:04:45 PM »
  Sometimes you just have to go to extreme measures 😡 after battling this nut plate for days , I gave up and started to cut it out. In an hour or so I unthreaded the rest of the nut out. I’ve seen this is my shopping expeditions somewhere so I went for it. You can see the residual sealant that was oozed into the bearing. I also found the shims and the seal housing after removing, I hope I can get these.
  If I only do one side at a time and just tighten to snug on the free play will I be in the ballpark or should I remove bell housing and mic it up?
Dakazman
« Last Edit: Sunday,July 26, 2020, 04:08:20 PM by dakazman »

Offline jbcollier

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1113 on: Sunday,July 26, 2020, 09:04:05 PM »
The transaxle is out.  Just a few more bolts and you can do it properly.

Offline GavinT

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1114 on: Sunday,July 26, 2020, 09:15:29 PM »
  If I only do one side at a time and just tighten to snug on the free play will I be in the ballpark or should I remove bell housing and mic it up?
If someone used locking compound on the output nuts, that's all you need to know IMHO.
Best to do it as per the book.

"It's the only way to be sure."
~ Ripley

Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1115 on: Monday,July 27, 2020, 05:21:58 PM »
  I have the differential nuts one the way and seals 11mm . I also found the shims people in all about that were pressed into the seal. I was not what I expected to see how the seal seals and against what.
I’m hesitant to split the case but would only have regrets afterwards. Parts seem non existent also .
At least I’ll answer my he question about the primary shaft coming out .
Dakazman

Offline GavinT

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1116 on: Monday,July 27, 2020, 08:08:06 PM »
D'man,

I can't figure out what you're saying in that post.
Regarding splitting the case, is the gearbox a known quantity as to it's condition?

Offline BDA

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1117 on: Monday,July 27, 2020, 08:11:02 PM »
  I have the differential nuts one the way and seals 11mm . I also found the shims people in all about that were pressed into the seal. I was not what I expected to see how the seal seals and against what.
I’m hesitant to split the case but would only have regrets afterwards. Parts seem non existent also .
At least I’ll answer my he question about the primary shaft coming out .
Dakazman
Have you tried Meca Parts or Alpine America? Google translate is probably going to be your friend with these folks.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1118 on: Monday,July 27, 2020, 09:16:27 PM »
You don't split the cases.  Just remove the bell housing.  Simple, straight-forward job.

Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1119 on: Tuesday,July 28, 2020, 03:28:56 AM »
 Thanks guys,

Gavin,  I do not know the condition of the gearbox. So that’s why I thought it would be a good time to at least inspect it’s condition .  Sorry,  I was interrupted several times while writing .
 
 JB, correct, the hardest part of the job is reading the manual and the online pdf for missing or distorted words .  If you suggest not to split , I’m all in .  I must have read the string pull procedure several times and still a little Leary of it. I guess until I see the movement they state, I’am being cautious.

  BDA , also correct, alpine and Mecca have the nut but Renault 16 shop adds in the seal assembly. They also have the 5 gear version, as they state it. I have the 4 speed ,  4 gear , 336/56 gearbox.

 D’man
« Last Edit: Tuesday,July 28, 2020, 03:56:06 AM by dakazman »

Offline GavinT

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1120 on: Tuesday,July 28, 2020, 08:56:38 AM »
Ahhh . . OK.

With my original restoration, I sent the gearbox out to a recommended specialist. It was working fine but I don't have enough gearbox knowledge to do it myself and I just wanted to be sure. IIRC he replaced bearings but that was about it. Given there was nothing actually wrong, it was a cheap enough job.

But with your situation, you basically have to set the diff backlash, I reckon.
It could be argued if you just did that, you'd be fine. Pulling the gearbox at a later date is no biggie.
« Last Edit: Tuesday,July 28, 2020, 08:12:21 PM by GavinT »

Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1121 on: Tuesday,July 28, 2020, 03:50:49 PM »
   With two engine builds going on , I’m taking this short cut on gearbox . going to get this engine
Installed with the 843 extended crankshaft in the 821 block . All within tolerance. New Stock pistons, liners and rings going in. The headers are on there way from R&D.😀. BDA hopefully it will make some sound.
   One of my neighbors offered up his engine run stand after his motor comes off it, so I’ll be able to run the original motor previous built. I’ll just need to adjust the valve lash .
 On the crossflow, I’ll  need another crankshaft, pistons, liners . Eyeing up Mecca parts 82.5mm chemise .😀
I talked to the Machinist and we discussed the term hemi. True it’s a hemi head but to be a true hemi head needs to be a complete circle in the chamber. Another lesson learned.  I’ll have to pull up califkid s head work to see what material was cut out.
D’man
 

Offline dakazman

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1122 on: Monday,August 10, 2020, 03:39:36 PM »
  Another update!
  Arts and crafts Time..., but someone has to do it. I have a new respect for seamstress, my wife, her contributions to this have been immense.  I slowly adhering the vinyl to the door card. All my test have failed on adhesives . So , back to contact cement. If I see it coming off I’m going to hit it with son glass resin.😂.
  I purchased a header from r&d for the wedge but it can help with the 843 mockup.

  Hope to load this little clip of my vette engine up for it valve adjustment. I heard a tap even at zero lash. The hydraulic lifters run on a roller cam. After 8 months I couldn’t tell if they retained there oil.

Dakazman

Offline BDA

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1123 on: Monday,August 10, 2020, 03:43:08 PM »
Looking good, D'man! Your wife deserves top billing!  :trophy:

Offline Pfreen

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Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Reply #1124 on: Monday,August 10, 2020, 04:25:04 PM »
I did my car and the only adhesive to stand up to the Florida heat is https://www.zoro.com/3m-contact-adhesive-1-pint-graygreen-1357/i/G1985173/.
I have had to reglue almost everything in the car.  Luckily, not the headliner.

It is a neoprene based contact adhesive.  Good luck!