1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  Since I'm still waiting on a correct sensor for my oil pressure gauge I found an interesting thread by JB , not the JB we all know.
  he has a lot of good info if you scroll thru his site.
    https://europa70.wordpress.com/2013/12/11/smiths-oil-pressure-gauge/
  This one is on oil pressure gauges and senders but , link to his other items...  here also
     https://europa70.wordpress.com/author/jjbunn/page/2/
 Dakazman

[BDA]

Good stuff, D'man! Here's some more gauge stuff: http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/electrical/gauges.html

[dakazman]

  Thanks again, Greg.
   Today I spent some time on the Oil Pressure Warning and Oil Pressure gauge senders.
 Pic 1, shows both senders, starting with the smaller "Warning" sensor which is normally closed (NC) switch hooked to the White/Brown WB lead.

 Pic 2, shows an adapter I use to test for air leaks in in ac lines before adding freon. After hooking up I pressurized the sensor to 30 psi continuity now
        open, and beeping from meter stopped.  Depressurized line beeping sounded , TEST GOOD.  This would turn back on the warning light. So what
        pressure does the warning light extinguish?... 10 PSI according to my compressor gauge.
  Pic 3, is an article comparing Oil pressure and water temp, I'm adding it in here to show the similarity of the water temp and oil warning sensor.
         Difference with naked eye being the water temp sensor does not have a cavity in the internal sensor pickup.

  I'm posting this part now so I don't loose it again. I'll post the Oil Pressure sender next.
  Dakazman

         

[dakazman]

  Received my Jaguar xj6 sender which should check out with the gauge. Testing with air pressure tomorrow.  Found in my treasure trove the connectors needed.
   Then I added some fuel to my aux tank and cranked engine enough to find out I have oil pressure.
 I was expecting it, so I had a drip pan available ..  I’ll check the fuel to carb tomorrow.
  I found TDC and will hook up ignition leads again tomorrow after checking the point gap.
 
   I WANT SOME NOISE!

Dakazman

  Ps hopefully not a bang!
   

[BDA]

Your sender is almost as shiny as your engine!

Hoping for noise at your house tomorrow (no bangs!)!

[dakazman]

  BDA, Thanks.  That is just Paul Z’s block that I’m using for the block that needs a line bore. Cleaning it up a little. Then I’ll go bigger on the next set of liners and pistons. In my spare time of course.😂
  I even cleaned up a bit more and laminated another facia panel to get rid of a piece of veneer I had as extra. I also have a complete set of gauges for it from India . It will make a nice desktop display.
  Then I painted my bikes front fender that had a nick in it, but it’s very time consuming masking off the flame designs .
Dave
 

 
 
 

[TurboFource]

Noise today? Fingers crossed……

[dakazman]

  Started working on it this afternoon.  Closed up all the oil channel passages and found TDC to set points and find distributor cap rotation. All was going to plan until my coil got hot.  WB wire from coil on + to distributor. W wire from tach to neg - coil side, no carb heater.  disconnected battery letting it cool down while I check all the runs.  All check good per Wiring diagram and other posts.
   What is going on?  ..., Bad Coil?
Dakazman
 

[dakazman]

  No noise yet but getting closer.    I also verified I have fuel pressure to carb.
  I found my points shorted to ground...somewhere. I guess I messed up something inside the distributor when reassembling it .  Finding ground on both legs of the points was one of YouTube universities T/S suggestions.  Its been a long time since I worked on points and couldnt remember if you can see the spark there.
    Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I just don't feel the love anymore!
  Its not a ground issue after pulling up wiring schematics. Coil still suspect. However maybe I should join the pertronics club.
Hemmings has this article :
       https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/ignition-debate-points-vs-pertronix/

    Bottom Line , NO SPARK 
   Dakazman
 

[jbcollier]

Not that it makes much difference to your issue,  WB from the distributor goes to the coil’s negative terminal.  W goes to the coil positive.

If the WB wire is shorted to ground, it will get hot along with the coil.

Disconnect things at the distributor until you find where it is going to ground.

- condenser?

- points moving arm it properly insulated?

- wire shorted to ground?

- insulated connection on distributor not actually insulated.

Should be pretty easy to isolate where the issue lies.

[dakazman]

 Hi JB,
  Replaced condenser .
  Swapped out to another coil.
  The new one got a little hot but no way near the other one . I may have left it in the ign position to long yesterday and today I was a little more conscious about not leaving it on .
  Disconnect the WB from coil - to distributor terminal along with the condenser lead , no ground on floating side of points, other side (stationary contact grounded. This is supposed to be normal. As soon as I attach the WB to coil  - and the condenser lead. With points open I get ground on both sides because it runs to coil -
The stationary side of the points seems like it cannot be ungrounded.  Which is what some wiring diagrams show .  Where am I supposed to loose the ground?
  Lol, after writing this I realized how to check . Duh   I’ll leave the coil - off and turn distributor rotor while checking continuity. Disconnecting the leads to points as I go along.
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Vehicle wiring is not like electronics.  Using a digital multimeter throws up all sorts of red herrings because they are so damn sensitive.

Turn the engine over until the points are open.  Turn on the ignition.  Use a test light with an incandescent bulb and test for power at coil + and coil -.  Test at the distributor connection and at the moveable point.  All light up the bulb?  You don’t have any stray grounds.  Bulb doesn’t after testing the W wire?  Then you have a stray ground.  Don’t replace things!  Disconnect things until you find where the issue is.

[dakazman]

  Thanks again JB,
  No shorts to ground, however no spark from plug wires to a ground. Alas , the rotor seems to be why.
I checked with another rotor from the 843 and found this strange.  See pics
 Even though I don’t see any cracks in the rotor main tab it is definitely open, whereas the 843 rotor has continuity. 
  Tried the 843 rotor in place of the 821’s , still no spark.
I did order a new cap and rotor years ago but it was not for either engine and forgot to put on my items to buy. Lol I went through a box of parts inside boxes I stored for years by the po , all junk! 😡
  Tried to also use the 843 cap but its main center contact is missing 🙃🥱.  RD will be getting my order soon. 
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap.  Hold it a 1/4” away from the engine. Crank the engine.  Spark or no spark?