1970 s2 0453R Reassembly

[dakazman]

  It feels good to get back to the wiring, most circuits now working and some need more troubleshooting. Hazard, headlights, turn signals all work now but the one problem I have that I’m concerned about is the oil pressure light will not extinguish , the oil pressure gauge pegged high and seems to have overheated.pic4  The oil warning was not hooked up yet on the sensor. So what is the sensors normal position?
  I turned the headlight switch so that off is down and added another red lead to term 3 to power Headlight side . Another big tool I used was to make 8- 16” extensions for the DB10 relay so it could be attached when dashboard pulled away to access the connections. Pic 1.
  I’m asking some S2 fed owners if they have a hazard flasher connector as I have pictured? The plug does not agree with the prints wire colors. Pic 2-3. The 35 year old flasher’s still worked..🥱
  Next is to add a manual radiator fan switch to override the temp sensor and to get the FLV fan to work with my ac control. Than the ac compressor.
  Then figure out why the starter won’t crank the engine anymore 🤔 battery is very old but using it to test everything. It does turn by hand.
Making progress.
Dakazman
Dakazman

[jbcollier]

Oil pressure gauge should not "peg", or burn out.  Check the instrument voltage regulator.  Could you have crossed wires between the Oil light switch and the oil pressure sensor?

[dakazman]

  Thank for answering JB,
I got the overheating problem from the Jaguar, smiths,  YouTube university as a common problem.
Hence my concern.
I didn’t have the WN (👍corrected) wire to the dual oil pressure warning sensor. The G is going to the brand new stabilizer and the LGU to the single connector oil pressure xmitter. Hopefully I wasn’t confusing them.
  I did just clean the gauge up years ago but didn’t go inside, so i opened it up , not too good of shape.
I may have an extra, but in the meantime I’ll check out the voltage stabilizer .
 Are the sensors normally open or closed to ground , I’m assuming, pressure NC and warning NO.

Dakazman

[jbcollier]

The gauge is full sweep when grounded and 0 when open.

The oil light switch is grounded at rest and open above 7 to 12 psi.

Just to avoid future confusion, WB = White with a Black tracer (feed from coil to distributor, and tach feed in later cars), WN = White with a Brown tracer (oil light switch or gauge).  Usually British cars with oil pressure gauges don't have oil light switches.  I like oil pressure warning lights, and I like them BIG and BRIGHT. I'm not a fan of electric oil pressure gauges without the addition of an oil light as the electric gauges are slow to react.  YMMV

[dakazman]

🥱 listening to your wife and typing struck again…😂 thanks for the color code correction. I’ll go back and change it .
  Absolutely a bright ass light and warning horn.
 Funny but maybe it’s the reason why the PO blew the engine
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  Sometimes it doesn’t save time to jump around or put things off .
Problem, Lol,  won’t crank. 🥱. It’s good to laugh at yourself sometimes, especially at my age.
  See pic
Dakazman

[Pfreen]

As far as the temperature gauge not reading correctly is I understand correctly,I ran into a similar problem with my Tiger.  The temperature gauge read 20 degrees low.

Anyway, I hooked up a 10k, 10 turn potentiometer to replace the sender to ground. Then, turn on the ignition, (remove power to the coil), and then adjust the potentiometer resistance to a value which corresponds to a defined temperature.  I found the values online here.  Compare the gauge needle to the temperature you are simulating.

http://lotus-europa.com/manuals/misc/electrical/gaugeinfo.html

This test tells you whether the error is with the sender or the gage/voltage stabilizer.  In my case, the gage/stabilizer was very accurate but some previous owner had installed the wrong resistance sender.

[dakazman]

  Purchased a close look alike from an eBay seller. Received a second gauge from them after they shipped the wrong one . They were very apologetic and covered everything.
Received this today and after I finished cutting my lawn, swimming and napping I’ll start disassembling it to swap out the faceplates. Then dig around to find the other senders I have around here somewhere.  Then test before installing.  It’s sweltering down here with 100 % humidity. Not quite painting weather. I did however supply ac to my garage 😁
Dakazman

[dakazman]

  I dissembled the original Smiths 2207 gauge with a 2201  from early Jaguars according to Jaguar-lovers.com.  The sender at $17 and gauge at $21 this should work.  I thought it was going to be an easy swap out of the face legend of the “OIL”  so I tried leaving the other legend in place and overlay the 2207  , not happening. So I had to remove the glass holder from the 2201, jag gauge and add the ring of the number legend of the 2207 after cutting around the legend leaving a ring to seat the glass .

   Then found this info :

    Just watch out for a mismatch. Some of the early senders were bimetallic and switched to 10V and ground. The 10V was supplied via another regulator behind the instrument panel. Those matching gauges were interested in the average current. They were actually very elegant and responded smoothly due to the thermal time constants involved.

If you have a variable resistance sensor, mated to the wrong gauge, then may not work at all accurately. According to the MG forum, they expect 110mA for 100PSI and 84mA for 50PSI and 20mA for 0PSI. Logarithmic.

But this has been recorded elsewhere in the Jag archives:

C68A8EFAA4854003B41C9C066BACC811.png
SENDER:- “PTR1001/10ec 700kN/m(squared)”

Pressure(psi), Resistance(Ohms) : 0 290 , 10 264 , 20 226 , 30 188 , 40 154 , 50 122 , 60 95 , 70 76 , 80 55 , 90 37 , 100 20

GAUGE:- ACP2203/00 (100psi)

·         “B” to “T” = 240ohms
·         “T” to “0V” = 326ohms
 
 Dakazman
 

[BDA]

Pretty clever, D'man! I hope it works as good as it looks!

[dakazman]

  While waiting…
  Started cleaning and prep on a new block from Paul Z , thanks Paul.

    My question to engine builders is what to seal the water jacket section of the block from corrosion.
I did search of sealers but came up with this study by motor trend.
https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/hrdp-0612-engine-coatings/

   And this product,
https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Temp-Lab-Metal-24-oz/dp/B003YESZM4/ref=asc_df_B003YESZM4/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385545944042&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6119528566192261870&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011840&hvtargid=pla-820325541822&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=79758197438&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385545944042&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6119528566192261870&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011840&hvtargid=pla-820325541822

 Just trying to stop or slow the corrosion. I previously used a sealant that is added in with the antifreeze as an additive in my van after I found that the intake manifold rotted out at the thermostat.

  Okay I’m going overboard again with the polishing 🥴🥱
Dakazman

[BDA]

I don't know anything about sealants you might need but your block sure looks purty!!

[dakazman]

  Thanks BDA ,
   All ready checked the crankshaft and head bolts by torquing in place before proceeding this time.
  My update,
  Down to the last circuit, white wire, to engine and AC lines , but running through a separate fuse and relay box under dash. . Then to start.
Dakazman

[BDA]

Let’s finally hear some noise out of that bad boy!

[GavinT]

Not sure I'd worry about an anti-corrosion "coating" per se.
My original 1470 engine had been poorly treated and sustained some corrosion damage due to lack of inhibitors in the cooling system. People commonly used just plain water back then out of ignorance, I suspect. My crossflow engine was much better for having used a glycol based corrosion inhibitor.

These days there's some 'long life' coolants around and I've graduated to those. They are often blue in colour - Volvo, BMW and many other OEM's have branded versions.