Author Topic: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion  (Read 79767 times)

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Offline 460384

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #60 on: Saturday,May 02, 2015, 02:21:51 AM »
Rod,

I can wait. It is going to take me a long time before I cut my chassis out.  So let me know later if you have time to do one for me.

Tom/Colorado
Tom/Colorado
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Offline RoddyMac

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #61 on: Sunday,June 21, 2015, 05:17:08 PM »
I guess its time I should update this thread, I've done a bunch of welding over the past few weeks and I have the chassis almost fully welded.  I've added mounts for the shift lever assembly (ex-Toyota MR2), welded in mounting plates for some pedal box brackets (going with a hanging pedal assembly), and I've modified the rear frame I had build a while back to clear the gearbox.  Another weekend of work and I might have the chassis ready for paint, then its hang it on the wall and get onto the body.







Cheers
Rod

Offline BDA

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #62 on: Sunday,June 21, 2015, 06:53:45 PM »
Great progress, Roddy! It's a piece of art! I know you're going to have a great car when you're done!!! Keep those pictures coming!
 :lotus:

Offline Runningwild

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #63 on: Sunday,June 21, 2015, 07:11:27 PM »
Looks fantastic. What shocks are you going to end up using?  Are you going with stock brakes or something bigger?  Tom

Offline RoddyMac

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #64 on: Sunday,June 21, 2015, 07:26:09 PM »
Tom,
I'll be running stock front brakes but the rears are cut down VW Rabbit rotors (they match the hubs) with Miata rear calipers as they clear the hubs and rims plus they have provision for a handbrake.

As for the shocks, the rears are Spax but I haven't decided on which ones to go with for the fronts.  I'm not going to running the sway bar in the stock location, so I wont require the pin on the bottom of the shock meaning I can choose from nearly any of the suppliers.  I'm leaning towards AVO's but I have heard good things about Protech, either way they will be probably the priciest parts for the car.

I'm also expecting to have to buy a few sets of springs.  Once I get the car completed I'll put it on the scales to figure out the front/rear weight distribution then calculate the spring rates.  I'm sure the first set of springs wont quite be right.

Rod

Offline Rosco5000

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #65 on: Monday,June 22, 2015, 09:31:57 AM »
Hey Rod,
That chassis is looking very nice!  Before I picked up my Europa I was toying with the idea of build a 7 replica.  That looks like just as much fun!

I really like that rear brace you fabbed up.
Ross
1974 Europa Special
1969 Europa S2
1970 Lotus Elan +2
1978 Austin Mini - 1275, big brakes
1991 Ford Explorer - Lifted on 33s, custom lift and radius arms
2005 Chrysler 300C - chipped, lowered 22s
2011 Cadillac Escalade - Stage 3 cam, Headers, CAI, 2,600 stall converter

Offline RoddyMac

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #66 on: Monday,June 22, 2015, 10:10:24 AM »
Ross,
The first chassis I built was a Seven:



Then came the Eleven and now this one.  I haven't decided what to build next, but I'm sure I'll have at least a year to figure it out.

Rod

Offline RoddyMac

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #67 on: Sunday,July 19, 2015, 08:27:45 PM »
Since I last posted I've managed to paint the chassis, make another shift knob (the one I had made a few months ago seems to have grown legs), start on the pedal box , hang the chassis on the wall and start on bodywork. I've stripped 80% of the paint from the main body and have uncovered more and more spider cracks. This thing is turning into way too much work.

I'm now contemplating having the doors, engine cover and front cover soda blasted instead of sanding all the old paint off. Does anyone on here have any experience with soda blasting fiberglass panels? Dear old dad had the wings and nose from his Caterham 7 media blasted, but neither of us can recall the media used nor any idea on the surface finish post blasting.


Anyways, here are some pics:











And one shot of the 47 style vents in the rear panels:



I am curious to know how the vents integrate with the inner panel, can anyone shed some light on this?

Rod

Offline BDA

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #68 on: Sunday,July 19, 2015, 09:33:27 PM »
Pretty work, Roddy! I sanded my body with a cheap orbital sander, but you've not interested in that anymore. It seems I have heard of soda blasting the body, but if I did, I don't know any more than that. Maybe someone else has some experience with it.

You probably know this already, but veil or gauze works great over your repairs and don't even think about using even fine cloth - you'll never get the weave not to bleed through the paint.

Congratulations on your progress! :beerchug:

Offline RoddyMac

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #69 on: Monday,July 20, 2015, 09:05:42 AM »
I'm just looking for an easier way to strip the paint, plus my orbital sander decided to fall apart yesterday.  The velcro pad parted company from the unit.   I've requested an estimate on blasting the doors etc, but I'm sure once I get it I'll be looking at fixing the orbital sander.

And yup, I'm very familiar with tissue/veil/surfacing veil etc.  Although a friend of mine restored a Berkley for a client (I had to fab some suspension bits for it) and he had some issues with print through with the tissue on that build. I can only surmise that he sanded through the resin top coat when prepping the car for primer.   I'm half thinking about using a large piece of tissue to fix the many cracks in the roof (a piece that goes from door to door and windscreen to back light).  Ideally I'd like to have the car in polyurethane primer by the end of August, or at least the body tub.


Offline EuropaTC

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #70 on: Monday,July 20, 2015, 09:32:02 AM »
Although it's often quoted as being completely wrong, I use paint stripper on my cars. In fact I use the most agressive stripper I can get, which is usually a thixotropic Methylene Chloride ("Polystrippa" in the UK) and yes, it will burn unprotected skin. It will also attack the gel coat which is why it's generally not used.

However, chemical reactions of this sort don't happen instantly and you aren't going to paint on some stripper and have a bunch of soggy glassfibre in your hands two minutes later.  What I do is to use stripper in small sections, typically a panel at a time. I also watch it carefully and only apply where I know there's at least colour and primer coats to go through. As soon as it wrinkles then I scrape off with an old 1" wood chisel, which generally takes you back to almost the base primer, after which I dry sand with 60 or 80 grit production paper used dry.

It usually takes me a day per panel, maybe 2 on the rear deck because that's relatively thin and you can't push too hard.  I realise this is against all conventional wisdom so YMMV, but it's something I've done for several resprays on both the Elan & Europa and providing you pay attention to what's happening, it's a very quick way to get the top layers of paint off.  I wouldn't use it on almost bare fibreglass and certainly not on any body filler though, under such conditions you will get damage.

Just a thought if you can't get a gentle blasting media.

Brian

Offline BDA

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #71 on: Monday,July 20, 2015, 09:55:06 AM »
Many years ago, a friend used paint stripper on a Corvette. Before he was finished he read or heard somewhere that the stripper could seep along the glass fibers and inhibit paint retention in the future. I don't know what happened to his Corvette, but I think I did hear that there were strippers that were (more) appropriate for fiberglass applications. It might be worth asking about the use on fiberglass cars.

On the other hand, Brian has experience with this and I don't.

Offline 4129R

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #72 on: Monday,July 20, 2015, 10:48:23 AM »
I was trying to get an old JPS sticker off my car yesterday, and was using a mixture of Toluene and Xylene that I had lying around (Octane Booster), to loosen the stick. It took an hour and messed up the paintwork.

Some got T/X stuck behind the WCCC 1973 badge, and when I took the badge off, the paint underneath had peeled down to the light grey coat.

Toluene is also used as paint thinners.

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #73 on: Monday,July 20, 2015, 01:45:22 PM »
Yep BDA, there are problems with paint strippers and there are milder paint strippers which are fibreglass friendly.  But they aren't so good at shifting paint, or at least not on the timescale I wanted them to   ;)

You can simply paint on thinners, especially the slower evapouration rate ones,  which will soften the paint enough to strip it away with a chisel or similar but it's not so effective on vertical panels. And I'd imagine after an hour or so of stripping paint you'd be so high on fumes not to care about cars at all   :)

But my experience is dated and so probably well adrift now.  The Europa I sprayed in 2011, the Elan in 2013 and when I ran out of stripper on that prep I couldn't find any methylene chloride based ones locally.  For anyone in the UK I ended up using one from Wickes;  it was far slower to react and you could leave it on overnight with no damage but at least it was thixotropic and clung to vertical surfaces. 

Brian

Offline Chuck Nukem

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Re: My Type 54 to sort of 47 Conversion
« Reply #74 on: Monday,July 20, 2015, 10:28:59 PM »
Roddy my brother I am right there with you!...I DA'd my entire TC. Pure pain. The worst are the spots where the boot and bonnet lids sit and the areas the DA cant get to. My hands were numb for weeks. I found that after hitting the paint with 60 grit on the DA I can switch to 60 grit on the sanding block and it will work much more aggressively. Maybe that is just the delusion from exhaustion...Just be glad you don't have to do any serious repairs. My car had been hit by a tree and I spent mover a month trying to get that fender straight. My trick that I developed is to use sharpie marker to mark the surface around the spider crack,  grind it out, then cover it with a combo of chopped strand mat and surface tissue. The tissue helps keep pin holes from forming because it is so resin rich. By the time you get back to sharpie you know you are on the money. Naturally I developed that trick after I started laying away on the damaged fender with no reference for what was there before.... I literally spent 300+ hours sanding the paint off and grinding the stress cracks out. I probably ground 1/8" off my entire car and built it back up again it had that many cracks...part of that was definitely the learning curve...I don't envy you...but I don't envy myself either because I have to do the whole dance over again with my hail damaged S1. Needless to say I am going to be investigating soda blasting for myself....

I really like your vents by the way! I am going to copy that!!
« Last Edit: Monday,July 20, 2015, 10:30:37 PM by Chuck Nukem »