Author Topic: Fiberglass printhrough  (Read 198 times)

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Offline Pfreen

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Fiberglass printhrough
« on: Tuesday,May 16, 2023, 02:13:38 PM »
This post is really an fyi.  Conclude what you want.  I am an amateur body and paint guy.  But, this is what I found.

I prepped, painted, color sanded and polished the fiberglass hood on my Tiger.  I completed that about a year ago.  So, I am completing the car build and was doing a final polish on the car.  I found that the glued on structure behind the hood to stiffen it had printed through to the mirror finish painted side.  This required color sanding and polishing the hood again.  If any of you have ever done this, it is a very nerve racking endeavor because in an instant, you can see primer.

As a side note, I epoxy glued elevator bolts on the underside of the Lotus engine cover to retain the vent grills with 10-24 nuts and screen retainers.  Anyway, after a long period of time, you could see on the engine cover 8 maybe 5/8" diameter circles where the elevator bold were glued.  Sanding and polishing took them out.
Btw, my paint is single stage ppg concept, both cars.

Offline dakazman

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Re: Fiberglass printhrough
« Reply #1 on: Tuesday,May 16, 2023, 02:55:01 PM »
  That’s what I’m trying to find an answer for also. I sanded down my clear coat and have yet to buff it back up. I don’t think it is the paint type , but just paint. It shrink wraps everything. I’ve noticed it in metal cars also with both single stage and clear coats.
  Hopefully by adding the different veil types will give a better outcome. I thought it was the temperature changes in the polyester and paint type at first but that’s just not consistent in my findings.
  Dakazman

Offline Richard48Y

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Re: Fiberglass printhrough
« Reply #2 on: Tuesday,May 16, 2023, 04:27:35 PM »
Fiberglass resin "Draws" during and after initial cure.
There are a couple of tricks to make that less of an issue.
The main one is to wait before final paint prep, another is to make sure anything porous has a layer of glass resin over it before bonding.
I am hopeful this may be less of an issue with Epoxy.

Offline dakazman

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Re: Fiberglass printhrough
« Reply #3 on: Tuesday,May 16, 2023, 05:25:10 PM »
  Even with a layer of resin on the bare fibers doesn’t cure the voids caused by water entering and freezing creating even larger fissures. I waited, let me say years before painting after a repair on the glass and still finding repairs by others repaired sections bleeding to the top layers. Fiberglaslast doesn’t recommend mixing polyester and epoxy.  I believe JB used epoxy resin on his mods inside his bonnet , I’m interested in having him chime in on the finish.
 Bleeding through is really pronounced with weave glass fabric’s which many here have seen and totally agree not to use.
  I too am on a learning curve and welcome all your ideas and facts.  I’ll post mine asap . Thank Richard.
 Dakazman

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Fiberglass printhrough
« Reply #4 on: Wednesday,May 17, 2023, 06:16:47 AM »
Fibreglass is a “fluid” material. It will form or move under tension.  For example, I riveted in the anchors for my rear bonnet supports.  Over the years since that area has reformed due to the stresses in play.  FG also expands and contracts due to heat/cold more than metal.  If you have irregularities in your fibreglass, they will eventually show through.  The only repair method I have seen that helps reduce show-through is the use of “veil” over repaired sections and imperfections.  This gives a consistent surface to refinish on.  It will move around and expand/contract consistently and much less likely to affect the finishing coats.  Without the veil coat, imperfections in the original fibreglass (stress cracking) will have it expanding/contracting in different directions.  This causes the stress lines in the fibreglass to “appear” in the finish layers.

My car was done by a very good shop, well versed in working with the heavy, thick fibreglass used in Corvettes, etc.  They had no experience with the crappy, irregular fibreglass created by Lotus.  The car came back looking absolutely, unbelievably stunning.  As I put it together, it went from outside from time to time.  Body heat cool cycles gradually had any stress lines appear in the paint underneath the clear coat.  It’s only visible in certain light conditions, most people still rave over the finish — at least until you point it out.

I was quite disappointed and the shop was shattered.  We came up with a happy compromise — they did a bit of free work for me and we shook hands and called it even.  My car was always meant to be a driver and drive it does.  5K trips happen once or twice a year and in all weathers.  I still wince a bit when I see the “cracking” but otherwise give little thought to doing anything but enjoying the car.

However, NEXT time, the whole body gets veiled, no ifs and/or buts about it!

Offline GavinT

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Re: Fiberglass printhrough
« Reply #5 on: Wednesday,May 17, 2023, 07:06:28 AM »

 Bleeding through is really pronounced with weave glass fabric’s which many here have seen and totally agree not to use.


*Raises hand sheepishly* . . guilty as charged, m'lud.

It took a few months to be noticeable but what I found interesting was that the woven pattern was more pronounced on some days than others. This went on for years. I'm now back in a hot climate (California-ish) but previously spent many decades in a more temperate climate.

The original bodywork job had months to settle prior to painting and was as dry as a chip. I kinda feel it's temperature related but I have no hard and fast data on this except to say that the weave pattern only showed through on the more horizontal panels. The weave never showed through on the lower sides, for instance.
What was I saying before? . . the body is supposedly 0.093 inches (2.3mm) thick!

What is curious is that epoxy glued elevator bolts would become noticeable. Being in the engine bay, do the bolts absorb heat more readily than the surrounding bodywork?
Perhaps even more surprising is that this could be polished out. Hopefully it won't come back.