Author Topic: 54/1846  (Read 13812 times)

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Offline rascott

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54/1846
« on: Sunday,September 16, 2018, 09:36:21 AM »
what i call "a rescue?" continues.
it is registered and has seen some road tests with encouraging results, but is still mostly just a rolling shell.
only a couple of years behind "schedule", but...…
been playing with some colors just because.
so far the suspension seems fit, renault runs, and the gearbox functions, but it runs hot and i'm having electrical issues.
haven't figured out wiper arms for it yet.

it's pretty fast!

Offline BDA

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #1 on: Sunday,September 16, 2018, 09:42:14 AM »
It's a good start! That it runs is a big help. Good luck with all your future challenges!

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #2 on: Wednesday,October 31, 2018, 07:10:10 PM »
made some headway on cooling issues by a radiator rodout.
started experimenting more by driving to work and back.
all very encouraging, and i haven't hit or been hit. nice veiw of other peoples wheels.
i should take some pictures.
i should be making a list.
think i'll drive it to work tomorrow, and think about it.

Offline Bainford

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #3 on: Thursday,November 01, 2018, 10:17:56 AM »
Glad to hear you are driving it. If you take a couple of photos, post some up for us.
The Twin Cam plays the symphony whilst my right foot conducts the orchestra. At 3800 rpm the Mad Pipe Organ joins in.

Trevor

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #4 on: Saturday,November 03, 2018, 06:50:51 PM »
driving helps me decide how to proceed.
i've been trying to tune a 32/36 weber. running some bicycle cable for the throttle.

got the cooling system cobbled together. put a craig-davies pump inline and am cardboardpattering a way to close off the front of the chassis. the pump has a control w/temp sensor in the head. fan control is still in the radiator.

using a suzuki alternator.

made something to make it quieter.

most of these gauges don't work.

still wonder about this door...........

it keeps getting a little better.


Offline BDA

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #5 on: Saturday,November 03, 2018, 07:28:25 PM »
It looks like you're making progress! I hear great things about the Craig-Davies water pumps and I a more modern alternator like your Suzuki alternator is a good addition.

It does look like your glove box puked a bunch of wire, though!  ;D

Keep it up! You'll end up with a really nice ride soon!

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #6 on: Saturday,November 03, 2018, 10:08:11 PM »
we will see about the pump. i am pleased, so far. the radiator rodding probably fixed most of my overheating issues.
that is one solid radiator! the radiator guy figured it was too small for anything. haha. like an oversized heater core.
i know where those wires go, but i gotta add some more before i can bundle them up for good.
i put some rubber around the doors, and may put the driver's door card on, to stop some rattling.
passenger seat is back in, but no riders yet.
my local autoparts hasn't helped re:wiper arm/blade parts. i'm wondering if mg or triumph or? may substitute?
think i'll drive it to work next week.

Offline Clifton

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #7 on: Sunday,November 04, 2018, 04:43:21 AM »
It looks like your passenger door doesn't have a latch. What am I missing.

I'm glad your are driving it and enjoying it.

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #8 on: Sunday,November 04, 2018, 07:40:11 AM »
this poor thing seems to have spent most of it's life in a bodyshop.
apparently it got painted after the door was installed.
currently, a bungee cord holds it closed.
the door handle and window gear are in it(motor works), and it has the latch ring on the door frame.
i don't think either door hinge is original, and the passenger one is loose/floppy.
i should start the hunt for a latch, and "plan" a door project.

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #9 on: Sunday,December 23, 2018, 04:34:27 PM »
update on that suzuki alternator. had to get creative with a bracket to make that work.
not sure why it cares which direction it spins, but it does.....

i have temporarily clipped a test light into the charge indicator circuit, so it can only be seen in the engine bay.
also, i had never driven at highway speeds, so i made a 150mi. roadtrip.
it took all day, and required many stops, but was fun when it was working right.

current front project is the righthand door.
i have gutted it, and am attempting to remove it,
i have resisted the sawsall.


got the bottom bushing nut(inside the door) loose, but the hinge pin seems frozen in it and rotates with the door.
the top nut refuses to loosen(yet), but the bushing is free on the pin.....

this may seem silly, but i have opened the body a bit.....



not sure about what seemed to be some previous repairs that involved stuffing fibreglass to encase the ends of the hinge pin.
-dug it out.
hope i don't have to do the same thing. haha


Offline Sofa King

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #10 on: Sunday,December 23, 2018, 07:27:47 PM »
I used “mini bear claw” latches on mine. I had to build brackets to recess them into the door just a little and use a post striker instead of the stock loop. But they are less than $50 a pair nad are readily available. Worked great!

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #11 on: Monday,December 24, 2018, 01:22:37 PM »
i had to google those latches-
of course this is not a new thing, and one should learn something new every day!

i was able to get a replacement latch, via the lotus community in the north sf bay, and now have all the door hardware.
i used the latch as an excuse for the roadtrip. i intend to have a "new" door for the next one. no more bungee cords.

still haven't got the top inside bushing nut loose. have gained a glimpse of the top of that bushing, and made a tool to hold it, while i flail with a wrench inside. mabe the liquid wrench stuff needs more time.

somehow, i think that pin has to come out? i made big holes.

i am developing theories on how this fits the "manual".

Offline 4129R

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #12 on: Monday,December 24, 2018, 01:50:43 PM »
You need to cut 4" out of the hinge pin using progressively bigger drills up to 12.5mm, spray WD 40 in the top through the wheel arch hole, move the door backwards and forwards a lot to loosen the hinge pin in the bush, then use a punch to push the part of the pin in the top bush out, then the top of the door is free.

Drill the nut off the bottom bush using drills up to 12.5mm, and the door shell should come off the bottom of the pin.

The bottom pin can be punched through the bottom sill once the door is out of the way.   

Offline Sofa King

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #13 on: Monday,December 24, 2018, 03:12:59 PM »
I was “lucky” with the hinges. Since I started with 2 donor cars, I cut up the fiberglass on one car to end up with a good set of hinges, and cut up the hinges on the other car to leave the fiberglass intact. Good thing I could do that because neither car was giving up the parts willingly!

Offline rascott

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Re: 54/1846
« Reply #14 on: Monday,December 24, 2018, 03:21:25 PM »
if i get this right, the pin is kept in place with a cotter pin(?), and should drop out if it were free on the bushes?
this would fit a theory i've been forming.

a p o didn't use a cotter pin, but gunked up the hinge pin ends w/fibreglass- that kept them from moving anywhere.

these hinges are not real furry- i was hoping to avoid destroying them....

the "manual" makes it sound easy, but i knew it wouldn't be.