Europa TCST

[BDA]

Congratulations on your progress!!

You can probably use aluminum but I would make it thicker and I might make the "lip" edges taller than the original steel since it does ad some support for the nose of the car. Mine is about 0.060" so I might go up to 0.10". If you have a sheet metal guy or access to a shear and a brake, that would work but you can buy them. I know that europa-supplies lists them and I would expect Dave Bean and r.d. to have them too.

There's no need to worry about indexing the steering shaft to the u-joint. You can adjust the clocking position at the wheel.

When you get to work on the frame, you might figure out a way to give yourself more room around that u-joint!

[jbcollier]

The steering shaft and u-joint can go together in multiple positions but it's not important as so can the steering wheel.  You will have to align the signal cancelling clip to suit, and that's all.

[TurboFource]

Thanks JB and BDA!

[Roger]

The closing plate does a lot of work, I  suggest you replace with steel like the original. You'll avoid electrolytic nonsense too.

Steering UJ can fit anywhere on splines. When you refit, centralise the rack, make sure the column and steering wheel are in straight ahead position, then refit.

[GavinT]

The closing plate does a lot of work, I  suggest you replace with steel like the original. You'll avoid electrolytic nonsense too.

What sort of work does the closing plate do?

As far as I can see, it acts as a brace between the lower nose line and the chassis.
If it weren't there, there would be a large unsupported chasm all the way from the lower extent of the body to nearly the top extents. I think that's why it's called a 'closing plate'.

[Kendo]

As I understand it from many years ago when I briefly drove my car without the closing plate, it keeps the front part of the body from working up and down as you drive until it cracks off. So, generally useful to keep.

[TurboFource]

Today, removed center console (what a flimsy piece), heater hoses, bolts holding dash to chassis and seat belt bolts.

I think all I have left before lifting the body is removing the steering column (u-joint already loose), the emergency brake pivot bolt and several more bolts holding the body to the chassis

[SilverBeast]

Oil pressure guage pipe?

[TurboFource]

I believe so, I will double check everything before attempting to lift body

[SilverBeast]

Good luck.  I hope it all goes smoothly. 

[BDA]

Great progress, Turbo!   

The original console cover was really flimsy. The good news is that the replacements are much more substantial and made of ABS. The bad news is you’ll have to trim it yourself.

[TurboFource]

If you are wondering if anything could be worse than removing door hinges.....

I have found the answer

The pivot bolt in my emergency brake arm would move in it's threads but was frozen solid in the arm!
I couldn't get much force on it because it moved around so I made a board with a slot in one end that would go over the arm and then braced against the firewall....great....until the head of the bolt broke off ( I used penetrating oil, tapped on it, tried to loosen then tighten to work it free)

Much fun to reach under the dash with a hacksaw blade and cut through the bolt (glad I already removed the doors).

So I removed one bolt today.......

[Gary t]

I think that the job you have just finished after skinning your knuckles is the worst job. Pain is a short term memory.

[BDA]

I think Gary's right. You've pretty much taken care of the things that are really hard to get to. There is the dash work that requires the Lotus Position (and a g-suit to make sure you keep blood in your noggin), but that's just uncomfortable.

There will be more difficult parts but I think the worst may be behind you! 

[GavinT]

Crikey, Turbo, you've had the worst run with frozen bolts.
If there's any justice in the world, you should win a big lottery.