Author Topic: Door Hinges  (Read 1018 times)

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Offline 4129R

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Door Hinges
« on: Sunday,February 28, 2016, 07:03:33 AM »
I am working on 3089R this weekend removing both doors for the much needed re-spray.

I had to cut through both hinge pins top and bottom (4 very time consuming cuts) as the long 1/2" bar was very rusted in position.

After cutting the left door free, both 1/2" stubs came out of the bush bonded in to the door surround with a bit of careful bashing. I had to drill a hole in the fibreglass wing to drift the top stub down and out.

Sadly the stubs in the right door frame won't come out. I have tried drilling the bottom one out, but a 1/2" drill bit and the drill won't fit vertically in to the door reveal, the drill bit is too long.

Apart from smashing the 1/2" drill bit in half, has anyone any ideas how to get the 1/2" stubs out of the bushes top and bottom.

Failing that, I will have to drill from an angle and set a 1/2" bush into a bigger hole.

Alex in Norfolk.

Offline jbcollier

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Re: Door Hinges
« Reply #1 on: Sunday,February 28, 2016, 07:41:30 AM »
Rent a drill with an 90° head and use short drill bits.  Drilling a series of successively larger holes is better than trying to drill it out in one go.

Example of the drill:

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/power-tools/cordless/2415-21

Example of the drill bits:

http://www.jinlei-drills.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=317

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: Door Hinges
« Reply #2 on: Sunday,February 28, 2016, 09:04:39 AM »
I think John's advice is the best you'll get, especially the idea of drilling a succession of larger holes which tends to make the job easier anyway. 

Having said that, I'm not averse to sacrificing drills if they happen to be slightly too long.  I'm the sort of bloke who has "sacrificial screwdrivers" used as chisels as a matter of course so a few quid on a drill is nothing compared with potential hours of frustration for me  ;)

Back to serious - you can get 90deg adaptors for normal drills.  I've used one in restorations before but not for anything like 1/2", it's been just for taking out spot welds with 6mm bits.

Brian

Offline 4129R

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Re: Door Hinges
« Reply #3 on: Sunday,February 28, 2016, 09:48:01 AM »
SUCCESS !!!

Here is how I did it:-

Drill the top one from below with successive drill bits up to 8mm when I could not get the drill in to the reveal. The top part of the bar has a pointed end, so unless you have a big hole in the centre of the pointed bit you just won't drill it from above. Then put masking tape on the top fibreglass, mark where the pin is using at least 3 angles and pencil marks on the masking tape. Then drill a 12mm hole through the firbe glass, then drill successive holes in 0.5mm increases from the 8mm up to a maximum of 12mm. The bar is 1/2" = 12.7mm, so as your hole will not be exactly central, you end up with a C piece of metal in the hole, which was easy to drift out from above. Only do this if you are having the car sprayed or you are desperate, as the 1/2" hole is ahead of the door mirrors.

With the bottom hole, drill from above with succeesive bits up to 8mm, then drill from below (take the silver sill off, 2 pop rivets and double sided sticky tape held mine in), from 8mm up to 12mm, and drift out the C piece of metal again.

Be very careful when drilling the top hole from below, the metal swarf goes everywhere, and if you are underneath looking up, you will get metal in your eyes unless using protection.

Now with the doors off, and the 4 stubs out, all that was left to do was undo the fittings in the doors top and bottom. 1 came out with the nuts undoing. The other door was so badly rusted, I had to cut them out with an angle grinder.

Next week, I have to drill out the seat rail mountings as the seats are stuck by rust, so under the car, and carefully drill up to cut out the 4 bolts per seat holding the rails to the floor. Then I will have the challenge of getting the 2 pairs of sliding rails apart.   

I will post pictures of the rusted pin soon when I can downsize them to 1Mb.


Offline BDA

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Re: Door Hinges
« Reply #4 on: Sunday,February 28, 2016, 02:43:30 PM »
Congratulations!!!  :beerchug:

I look forward to your pictures. I didn't notice your mentioning it so for others who might be interested, the hinge pin is tapped at the bottom (I believe it's 1/4 - 20 but it might be 5/16 - 18). Sometimes you can screw a bolt in there and turn it with a wrench to break it loose.

Fiberglass sure makes it easy to do things like you had to to drill out the top of the hinge pin! I would be much more reticent to do that with a metal car!

Now you can get new hinges. I have no experience with the stock hinge setup (other than cutting it out of the car) so I can't say whether the standard hinge setup is easier to adjust than Richard's (at Banks), but I like the hinge set I got from Richard. It allows you to take the door off and not really loose the adjustment.

Offline 4129R

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Re: Door Hinges
« Reply #5 on: Sunday,February 28, 2016, 04:39:44 PM »
Here is the hole, the hinges, and the reason for the respray.

I already have a supply of Banks new style brass hinge pins. They are brilliant.

Offline 3929R

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Re: Door Hinges
« Reply #6 on: Monday,February 29, 2016, 11:44:58 AM »
Congratulations on your success!

Only do this if you are having the car sprayed or you are desperate, as the 1/2" hole is ahead of the door mirrors.
Mine has a hole in nearly the same place. Nothing to do with hinge pins, it's for the radio antenna.
« Last Edit: Monday,February 29, 2016, 11:48:34 AM by 3929R »
Mark
Salt Lake City, Utah, USA