Lotus Europa Community

Lotus Europa Forums => Members Cars => Topic started by: Serge on Thursday,November 29, 2012, 02:58:36 PM

Title: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,November 29, 2012, 02:58:36 PM
Hello everyone,


I'm Serge and I live in Belgium. I've acquired #460002 in October of 2011 and I've been restoring the car slowly. This being the oldest Europa that's known in the registry and by Lotus themselves, I want to restore the car to it's original appearance. But the car isn't a matching number car, because the original engine has been replaced in the past. I'm also preparing the car for FIA Appendix K Historic Racing (Period G2) and therefor all the modifications that I'm making to the car, that aren't original, will be reversible in the future. So I can use the car for Historic Rallies, hill-climbs and races and I can undo all of the modifications in the future so it will retain most of it's value.

I've set up a blog on http://Sleurs-Motorsport.com - here I post all of the progress that make on the restoration. I'll post the small updates on here, so you can click through to my website if you'd like. This are the posts of the past year in chronological order, so it's easier for you to read.

Lotus Europa S1: Barnfind

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/162__640x480_p1090001.jpg)

I always wanted a car restoration project. I was always researching what car I wanted to restore. First I wanted a mini, then a Karmann Ghia, after this I wanted an MGB, but then I found something that would be a perfect candidate.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=172


Lotus Europa S1: What’s underneath the dust

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/177__640x480_p1090020.jpg)

After getting the car home, I wanted to see what’s underneath the layers of dust the car gathered by standing in a dusty barn for 19 years.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=188


Lotus Europa S1: A place to work

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/195__640x480_p1090044.jpg)

To be able to restore a car, you need a workshop, preferable a large garage where you have all the room and tools in the world. I had neither.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=196


Lotus Europa S1: Bloody Knuckles and Broken Dreams, Part 1

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/199__640x480_p1090085.jpg)

I started disassembly a couple of weekends ago and I had some things to show for it. I had bloody knuckles from parts that didn’t want to come loose, and after the first day of stripping the car down, I knew this project was going to take a lot longer than I first anticipated. But there’s also some good news!

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=204


Lotus Europa S1: Moving the 821

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/232__480x640_p1090133.jpg)

This post is all about getting my 821 engine down a flight of stairs.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=219


Lotus Europa S1: Bloody Knuckles and Broken Dreams, Part 2

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/264__640x480_p1090293.jpg)

The Lotus is disassembled!

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=226


Lotus Europa S1: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/289__640x480_p1090580.jpg)

It has been a while since the last update, but I haven’t been sitting still. When I last updated the blog, I just had disassembled everything, and the next step was cutting the chassis out of the body. So I’ll talk you through the past couple of months.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=233


Lotus Europa S1: Sometimes It’s Not as Bad as It Looks

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/299__640x480_p1090595.jpg)

I got lucky with the chassis! Once all the surface rust was removed, it appeared to be in better shape than I expected!

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=358


Lotus Europa S1: So Many Jobs, So Little Time

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/303__640x480_p1090835.jpg)

It's been a while since my last update, I had a very busy summer, but I did manage to get some work done on the Europa.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=374


Chassis repairs, Part 1

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/316__640h=480x_p1100627.jpg)

So I have started with the chassis repairs, work is going slow, but I’d rather do it slow and correct than have to clean up after myself a couple of years from now.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=419


The compete URL of my website is http://Sleurs-Motorsport.com So you can follow some more of my progress on there. There's also a subscription function on there now, that way you can get my posts via email instead of having to visit my site know and again. There's a new blog-post coming with a new update, but I haven't had the chance to upload the pictures, but I'll put them online before the end of the weekend, promise!

I've also been working on a Video web series about my restoration, because I like to watch these sorts of video's on the internet, and now I thought it was my turn to make one, so other can enjoy. Please check them out and tell me what you do (and don't) like about them. These are just the first two video's. I have a third one lined up to edit, but they take quite a lot of time to make, so I have to find a couple of hours in my schedule to edit them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-J0mdApcQY


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgZSySqUrjc


Kind regards,


Serge

 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: andy harwood on Thursday,November 29, 2012, 04:47:43 PM
Serge,
Thanks for posting about your restoration.
I have been to you web site a couple of times checking out your progress. Watched your videos also, they were very good.
I'm looking forward to seeing your progress on the frame.
andyh
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Friday,November 30, 2012, 02:22:45 PM
Welcome to the forum, Serge. That's quite a project you have there. I'm looking forward to the updates as they come. Best of luck.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: cal44 on Friday,November 30, 2012, 03:53:35 PM
Hey Serge,

good thing the engine is near the washing machine..........that baby will clean right up............

A 46.............you lucky man. 

Mike
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: TheKid#9 on Friday,November 30, 2012, 10:11:03 PM
Wow a S1 restoration! Hope to see pictures of the progress you make on it. Good Luck!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Lotus46 on Sunday,December 02, 2012, 09:05:42 AM
Hi serge :welder:

Long but very interresting job

I've done a same job after a road crash :confused:

well i'm living not so far from your country, if you need some help

I m waiting for your progressive pics restauration

bon courage
L46
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,December 04, 2012, 08:50:29 AM

Thank you all for your kind comments!


This is a small update! I've removed the strengthening plates for the engine mounts on the chassis, removed the rust and put new plates on.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/333__640x480_p1100652.jpg)

The complete update, with a lot of pictures and a bit more explanation is on my blog here: http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=471


Kind regards,

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,January 08, 2013, 01:32:06 AM


Hello everyone,


I had some spare time to edit another video segment. This is the video update about the replacement of the strengthening plates that I showed you in the post above.

I hope you'll enjoy it!

This is the video URL:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9SZGp3_FZ8


Kind regards,

Serge
#460002
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: cal44 on Friday,January 25, 2013, 08:47:01 AM
That a boy Serge......... you are doing well.

Mike
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Mecky on Friday,February 22, 2013, 05:09:03 AM
Hi Serge,

how is your project going on? Are you already able to guess, when your car could be ready?
The race tracks need every Europa they can get :pirate:

Will you use your 821 engine or replace it by a 697 (maybe the original one)?

Regards

Stefan
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,February 22, 2013, 06:56:14 AM

Hi Stefan,


my car will take some time to complete, at least another year, maybe even longer. My ultimate deadline is 2017 (when the car is 50 years old).

I will be using the 821 engine so I can get homologated as a GT car in period G2 for appendix K. I have another 697 engine, but this isn't the original engine (it was replaced by a 697-01 engine from a renault 16 TL). I will probably use the 697 engine to make this engin to original spec, so I have an original spec engine with the car, should I want to change from the racing engine.

Kind regards,

Serge


PS: I have at least 2 video / blog updates coming in the next couple of weeks.

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,March 24, 2013, 02:07:24 PM
Hi everyone,


I have another video for you, however there isn't much Lotus content, but there is quite a lot of footage of the manufacturer-stores in Paris and of the Rétromobile Classic Car Show in Paris (One of the bigger shows in Europe, and the first event of the new classic car season).

I am currently editing three other videos, so expect to get some more Europa-oriented updates very soon.

I hope this video bridges the gap.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcPbBipyhO4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcPbBipyhO4)

Kind regards,

Serge
#460002
Http://Sleurs-Motorsport.com (http://Http://Sleurs-Motorsport.com)
 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,March 25, 2013, 09:24:45 AM
I've been able to upload some pictures of my repairs to the rear crossbar and some of the modifications that I made to the rear Y-section of the chassis. There will also be a video about these repairs, but that will take another few days before I can get that online.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/350__640x480_p1100726.jpg)

Meanwhile you can read all about it right here:

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=535 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=535)

Kind regards,

Serge
#460002
http://Sleurs-motorsport.com (http://Sleurs-motorsport.com)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,April 17, 2013, 04:58:48 AM


(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/rearcrossbar.png)

Finally I've found some time to edit the video of the repairs above. I had already edited the next video, so I'll upload that in a couple of days.

I hope you'll enjoy it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyP5Zg-OPqA


Kind regards,

Serge
#460002
http://Sleurs-Motorsport.com
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: LotusJoe on Wednesday,April 17, 2013, 10:16:00 AM
Serge, Maybe I'm having some difficulty on my end but it seems you latest video is only about 1 minute long, and ends while you explaining the cross member modifications.  :confused: But what I'm really interested in, is where can I get the t-shirt your wearing? Very cool.

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,April 17, 2013, 10:34:50 AM

Hi Joe,

the video seems to be working on both of my computers, if the problem remains, try to watch the video in another quality (480p, 360p, ...). There could be a problem with the youtube encoding, I'll try to look into it.


The T-shirt that I'm wearing is a T-shirt with the Pistonheads logo on, this was a T-shirt given at the Spa 6 Hours Historic race meeting a couple of years back. But they sell T-shirts with the same logo (and many much cooler car-related shirts) on their website:

http://www.shotdeadinthehead.com/what/mens-tees/collection/pistonheads

If you have any questions about the crossmember modifications, just post them here and I'll answer them as good as I can.


Kind regards,

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,April 19, 2013, 01:54:38 PM

Hello everyone,

I've uploaded aforementioned video. In this video I’ll show you some of the parts that I have been collecting for the past year to be able to continue and finish my restoration. This ranges from paints, tools, fasteners to second hand difficult to find Lotus parts. I also bought a lot of parts to build my own engine mounts, lower links and radius arm mounts. Since I recorded this video, I have been able to buy a Lotus Europa steering wheel, however, this isn't the exact steering wheel that I wanted, but it was fairly cheap and it could be used without looking too much out of place.

You can watch the new video on my blog here:

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=558

Kind regards,

Serge
#460002
http://Sleurs-Motorsport.com

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,July 19, 2013, 03:19:23 PM

Hi everyone,


This is a small update for my Europa project. I've made an S2 modification to my S1 chassis, specifically the strengthening plates around the radius arm mounts.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/366__640x480_p1100745.jpg)

There's a complete explanation with lot's of photographs on my blog on the link below and underneath I'll place a link to a youtube video where I explain and document the upgrades.

Blog: http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=575

Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DG2oQscv5KA


Kind regards,

Serge
#460002
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/
http://youtube.com/sleursmotorsport

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Friday,July 19, 2013, 10:37:36 PM
It looks a sensible idea Serge. While you're at the "reinforcing" stage I'd also suggest the engine mount area for serious inspection. On my old chassis they had deteriorated badly and were the main cause for the body removal. Although it was largely corrosion I also found cracks which I suspect was caused by flexing of the area behind the engine mounts. At the stage you're at it would be very easy to do a similar treatment to that area.

Brian
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,July 20, 2013, 03:08:49 AM

Hi Brian,


The reinforcing plates for the engine mounts were very rusty as well on my chassis. Quite a lot of rust had developed between the spotwelded plates. I removed the plates and made my own before welding them back on.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/328__640x480_p1100619.jpg)

Video of those repairs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9SZGp3_FZ8


Kind regards,

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Saturday,July 20, 2013, 10:57:35 PM
Hi Serge,

That's the bit !   I've found a picture of what mine looked like when I stripped the car and most of the damage was just outside of the mount. 

I was puzzled why you would get corrosion on a vertical plate where water would run away and there was nothing to hold moisture in place (mud/bodywork/noise insulation felt/etc). I ended up with the theory that it was down to the engine mount loading from cornering which would cause the vertical section to deflect, break the paint coating & allow gentle rusting.

My memory is hazy but I seem to recall welding in sections and making a longer & more rigid strengthener to try and spread the load better.

Brian 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,September 19, 2013, 10:15:08 AM

Hello everyone,


I've finally had some time to upload some pictures of my recent work and to write some comments about them. The pictures were taken between may and august so they span a few months working on and off on the chassis.

The rusted metal was cut out and replaced with new steel sheets that were folded to match the original panels. Everything was then painted in Epoxy-Mastic paint to get the best rust protection out there. After the front T-section is welded on, I will paint the chassis again with satin black 2K paint, to get better aesthetics.

Currently I'm working on building a new front T-section from scratch, all the panels are cut, but I need to fold a couple of them and then I need to weld them together.

If I can find some time in the coming week, I'll edit the video of these chassis repairs and I'll upload it to youtube.

These are some before and after pictures. You can read all about the repairs on my blog (link below), where you can find a report with 55 photographs and a step-by-step explanation of everything that I did.

Before:

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/375__640x480_p1100767.jpg)

After:

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/428__640x480_p1110120.jpg)

Blog: http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=581 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=581)

Kind regards,


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: LotusJoe on Thursday,September 19, 2013, 10:40:33 AM
Serge,
Project is looking fantastic.  :trophy:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Friday,September 20, 2013, 08:40:26 AM
I must say, Serge, that I'm quite impressed with what you've taken on, and the excellent work you are doing. Quite inspiring.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,October 03, 2013, 03:40:25 AM

Thank you all for the kind replies!

I have managed to edit one short video, but I have two more lined up, I just need to find the time!

In this short video I’ll show you my ‘new’ S1 steering wheel and ashtray and I tell you the story of how I got it. I’ll also show you the difference between an S1 and an S2 steering wheel.

If there is any interest in me making another ‘Collecting parts’-video about all of the difficult (or not so difficult) to find parts and components that I have collected over the past few months, let me know and I’ll make another one if I find the time.

The link is below the photograph!

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/steeringswap.png)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdU4gNnqUUA


Kind regards,

Serge

Blogpost: http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=588
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,December 02, 2013, 10:19:16 PM
Finally a new video!

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/backbonechassis.png)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqBmgBixX2s

The blogpost isn't up yet and I still need to rewrite the description, but you can already watch it.


Kind regards,

Serge

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Mecky on Tuesday,December 03, 2013, 01:15:59 AM
Great Job, Serge!  :pirate:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,December 23, 2013, 02:26:27 PM

Thanks Stefan!


I've uploaded some more pictures to my website and a complete explanation on how to make adjustable lower links:

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=599 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=599)

There's also a video on the way about the entire process.


(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/lowerlinks/p1110273.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/lowerlinks/p1110277.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/lowerlinks/p1110326.jpg)


Hopefully this will be of use to somebody.


Kind regards,


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Chuck Nukem on Monday,December 23, 2013, 10:43:16 PM
Serge that looks excellent!! I am planning to make a similar upgrade for mine.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,December 30, 2013, 10:57:13 AM

I have been able to upload the video about the making of the lower links! It has turned out to be a little bit longer than I wanted, but I wanted to be thorough in my explanation so you could use the video as a guide to make some of your own.

I'll promise to make some shorter, less technical videos in between the long-winded technical restoration videos if I find the time.

Youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNIELWMgKJk

Blogpost:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=605

Enjoy!

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: cal44 on Monday,December 30, 2013, 12:46:53 PM
Nice work Serge.  I'm building a big ol' fence in my backyard........are you available?............ :FUNNY:

mike
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,February 02, 2014, 04:13:20 PM
Hi everyone,


After my exams the university decided that I deserved a week off, so I found some time to work on the Europa and also update my blog!

I finally wrote very lengthy blog post with 60+ photographs of the fabrication of the front T-section.

This is a teaser picture:
(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/tsection/p1110510.jpg)

You can read the entire story right here:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=609 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=609) 


I hope you'll enjoy it.

Kind regards,

Serge

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Chuck Nukem on Monday,February 03, 2014, 07:09:40 AM
A masterclass! I am following in your footsteps.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: andy harwood on Monday,February 03, 2014, 06:10:07 PM
Serge,
that is some fantastic work you're doing.
the phrase 'better than new' comes to mind.
thanks for taking to document & post your progress so thoroughly.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,February 20, 2014, 02:40:52 AM
Thank you for the kind comments everyone. I've split the T-section video up in to parts because it was to lengthy otherwise. The first part is uploaded and the second part will be online before the end of next week.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/tsectionfabrication.png)

In this first video I'll explain the fabrication of all of the panels, while in the second video I'll show you how I welded them all together and how I got the suspension geometry right.

Link to the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DztlXXHQwyo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DztlXXHQwyo)

Link to blog:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/ (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/)


Kind regards,

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,February 28, 2014, 03:17:31 AM
Here is the second and final part of the video on the front T-section.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/tsectionfinal.png)

Link to the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w7iyrgfdew (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2w7iyrgfdew)

Link to the blogpost:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=644 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=644)


Kind regards,

Serge

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,March 11, 2014, 03:39:26 AM
(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/polishingbumpers.png)


This is the first in a series of short videos that I will try to make to keep the momentum going.

These videos will be shorter, less in depth videos on smaller jobs on the restoration of my Lotus Europa S1 that don't take up a lot of time to do and film. I will be releasing these in between all of the longer videos that take a lot of time to make.

This first video will be on the polishing of the original 1967 bumpers that had a really hard life. I will be trying out the 'cola and aluminium-foil'-method as well as polishing the bumpers with Autosol metal polish.

Link to the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZiSK4aqFOk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZiSK4aqFOk)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,March 26, 2014, 05:57:37 AM
If only my turtle would care to cooperate..
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,March 26, 2014, 07:46:11 AM
 :FUNNY:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: 3929R on Wednesday,March 26, 2014, 08:07:01 AM
 :FUNNY: :beerchug:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,April 03, 2014, 10:21:21 AM
Update!

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/finishingchassis/p1110595.jpg)

Blogpost on welding the T-section to the backbone:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=659 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=659)


I'm running behind on the updates, front suspension and front brakes are already done!

The video for this update will be online soon. I'm trying to keep to a rythm of one video for every two weeks, but I'm struggling to find time to edit them..


Hold tight!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Friday,April 04, 2014, 07:41:00 AM
Looks great Serge!  Just a couple of points:

- the chassis corrodes mostly from water trapped between the body and the chassis on S1s.  They corrode from the outside in rather than the inside out.

- it is moderately easy to seal up the front of the chassis but water mainly makes its way to the front of the chassis from the rear!  It splashes in through the rear wheel wells and flows down and forward.  When you put the chassis back into the body, make sure you carefully seal the chassis to the body at the rear at roughly the line of the seat backs.  Fibreglass over a strip of foam to create a barrier to the water flowing further forward and drill a few drain holes in the low points to keep it from building up.

- water also finds its way onto the rear chassis rails through the engine hood vent holes.  Again, use carefully placed "dams" to direct this water from flowing further in.  You want to direct it down and out your body drain holes.

- finally your carefully sealed chassis will be drilled full of holes when you rivet it back in place.  Sealer inside and, more importantly, on the underneath is very important, as well as checking and refreshing it on a regular basis.  Inside use a sealer/corrosion inhibitor that stays semi-liquid so it can flow in and around where it needs to.  Underneath, use a sealer that hardens but not too much, otherwise it will crack and let moisture through.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,April 04, 2014, 08:57:45 AM
Thanks!

Did not know the water flowed from the rear to the front, interesting to know!

I was trying to prevent having to use a cavity wax for the inside of the chassis because it creates a real mess and I will have to stick my hand in there in the future to install and adjust various things. However, once everything is settled I can still apply it afterwards.

Serge

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,April 19, 2014, 04:07:26 AM
I've uploaded the video about the final fabrication on the chassis. The chassis has been completely finished at this point.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYr6EEvjjuY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYr6EEvjjuY)


Upcoming videos:
explaining my spray painting setup
front suspension
brake calipers
rear radius arm mounts
rear suspension

Enjoy,

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,April 29, 2014, 11:48:36 AM
(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/spraypaintingequipment.png)

I've uploaded another short video. This time I'll show you the spray painting equipment that I plan to use to do all of the painting on my car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clIS8a2_KZw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clIS8a2_KZw)


Enjoy & Share!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: 3929R on Tuesday,April 29, 2014, 01:12:16 PM
 :coolpic:  Interesting.  I look forward to seeing how much of a learning curve there is for the equipment.  You need my bad looking old truck to practice on. I'll drive it over to you. 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,April 29, 2014, 07:04:49 PM
Another great video, Serge! I like the idea of taking the cross member out without totally dismantling the rear suspension but I don't think it will be as useful as you might think. Remember that the suspension links (the lower and the half shaft) are attached to the tranny anyway so you'll obviously have to disconnect them and at that point, the car won't be able to stand on its own. If you install a twin link rear suspension, you could fabricate a piece to bolt to the lower rear suspension arms then with your 'detachable' cross member, you might be able to do it.

If you still want to do your cross member that way, you could weld a box or pair of flanges that fits inside the ID of the cross member box on the shock ears. Then cut the bottom out of the cross member box section so that it slips over the box or flanges welded to the shock mount ears. Then bolt the cross member to the flanges or inside box. It's probably harder to describe than do it. I'm sure you get the idea.

Keep up the good work and the videos!!!

BTW - I forgot to say that I didn't have any trouble watching the whole video. :-)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,April 30, 2014, 01:11:33 AM
Thanks everyone!

BDA, you are completely right!

Some of the twin-link cars or the cars with the spyder-rear-wishbone setup have this removable crossmember, because they can. I had figured it out afterwards that it wouldn't make a difference, because everything is connected anyway. So I decided to leave it like it is and not make it removable.

Serge

 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,May 22, 2014, 02:47:05 AM
New update! Taster:

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/571__640x480_p1110657.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/593__640x480_p1110743.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/619__640x480_p1110824.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/cache/622__640x480_p1110829.jpg)


Very long blogpost about the restoration of the front suspension, 50+ pictures.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=679 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=679)


Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,August 21, 2014, 03:09:11 AM
(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/wishbonesuprights.PNG)

New video!

I wanted to make a single video, but it turned out that I had a lot more footage than I thought. In stead of releasing one single hour long video, I’ll be releasing four shorter videos for your viewing pleasure. This is the first of four on the front suspension. Afterwards I have videos coming on the front calipers, competition rear radius arm mounts, rear suspension, engine mounts, ...

In this video I strip, clean, paint and reassemble the front wishbones and uprights. In the next video we’ll talk about the restoration of the front hubs.

Link to video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IpdF5VWFyo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IpdF5VWFyo)


Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Thursday,August 21, 2014, 08:06:29 AM
Good job, Serge!

I would suggest that a sandblaster that you hook to an air compressor would be a good way of getting the grung, rust, and old paint off those bits. It also gives a rough surface that is good for painting.

I know editing those videos must be a major ordeal. I've already done the stuff you're working on, but I still enjoy them. Keep up the good work!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,August 21, 2014, 08:27:13 AM
Thanks!

Yes, an air compressor and sandblaster would be very useful tools, but I have neither, and don't want to invest too much if I can do it by hand too. My time doesn't cost me anything, and being a student, I don't make any money either. So I rather spend a day extra cleaning everything by hand if that means that I can buy another part for my Europa.

The easy way would be to have it powder coated, they sandblast everything before they powder coat it. Two birds with one stone, but not the satisfaction of knowing that you've all done it yourself (and saving quite a bit of money doing so).

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,September 05, 2014, 03:12:26 PM
(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/fronthubs.PNG)

The second video in the series of four on the restoration of the front suspension. In this part I restore the front hubs, install new wheel studs and new wheel bearings.

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnidVlAaKCw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnidVlAaKCw)


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Friday,September 05, 2014, 07:31:45 PM
Another great video, Serge.

I would make two suggestions. I usually put a nut at the end of a threaded piece to help make sure the threads aren't damaged. I realize, however, that for the studs, there is little chance of messing up the threads. The other is because of the weird shape of the grease cap, I had a 10-32 nut tacked inside the cap. Now if/when I need to take the cap off, screwing a long screw into the hole in it will easily push it out.

Thanks for the videos, Serge and keep up the great work! Good luck with the restoration!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,September 06, 2014, 12:38:02 AM
Thanks, BDA!

You are correct on protecting the threads, the nuts have been on there since after the video, but I should have put them on earlier to protect them while installing the bearings. The new grease caps that I have (not shown in the video) have a small hole on the front, and I use a wood screw to thread into the hole and pull the cap off.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Saturday,September 06, 2014, 11:14:42 AM
Great minds think alike!  ;D
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,September 30, 2014, 09:05:33 AM
Hi everyone!

I've met up with some fellow S1 owners last week here in Belgium (#40 and #70). #70 was restored in the '80s and has a crossflow engine, #40 has been rescued from a lockup somewhere in Belgium after been stored there in the 1970's. It has had a new front end grafted on from an S2 after an accident, but otherwise it is in surprisingly original condition. It will be restored in the next few years. The owner has a very nice collection of cars, including a Lotus XI, Lotus 340R, Lotus Elise S1, a Lola T212 and a Lancia Fulvia Zagato. He used to have a Lotus 47 and Lotus Elite Type 14.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/frontarb.PNG)

In the meantime I've also edited another segment of the front suspension rebuild. In this video I'll work on the front anti-roll bar.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSy7O6yoAfo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DSy7O6yoAfo)


Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,September 30, 2014, 12:10:03 PM
Another nice video, Serge!

I cheated and cut the lower ring of the drop link in half and had four small tubes welded on either side of both halfs to allow me to bolt them together. I left the top bushes in. They looked in decent shape but beyond that, the looked like they were crimped into the drop link.

Those polyurethane bushings are the way to go!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,September 30, 2014, 12:33:21 PM
Although I am really happy with the outcome of the poly-bushes in the droplinks, I will be relocating the ARB to just above the steering rack in the future. I have already collected all the parts needed to do this conversion. There are several reasons to do this. The main one being not having to deal with the studs on the end of the front shocks. There are several known cases of people having to replace the studs because they broke off and the roads in Belgium aren't the best. I will be using expensive aluminium monotube shocks and I don't want to risk them or the studs that they would have. With this relocation I will be able to get the shocks without the studs. The second benefit will be the addition ground clearance, because the front ARB is the lowest part of the car. 

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,September 30, 2014, 02:20:22 PM
Good idea!

The first Europa I had had a broken stud on one of the shocks. Nothing to do then except buy a new shock.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,October 02, 2014, 04:00:04 AM
Thanks, BDA!

The last video in the series on the front suspension. Glad I've finally edited it all. Next up will be the rebuild of the front calipers.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXZH_XUzJu8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oXZH_XUzJu8)


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Thursday,October 02, 2014, 06:47:45 AM
Another great video, Serge! Good that you mentioned the big washers to keep the bushing from getting pushed out of the A-arm pieces. That happened to me!

With regard to lubing the trunnions. There has been some discussion about using grease vs oil on the yahoo group. I would say that although the manual specifies 90 wt gear oil for the trunnions, that moly grease is better in this application. I have a friend who worked at Shell Oil for twenty five years and although he didn't work with formulating or testing oils and greases, (he did work several years at a grease plant that at the time made half the grease in the world!) he kept up with it pretty closely so he is the guy I go to with most lube issues. I asked him for his advice for lubricating the trunnions and here's what he told me:

Quote
First things first: Use a lithium 2 hydroxystearate grease with moly in it.  Virtually all modern greases with moly are lithium 2 hydroxystearate, so if you get a good moly it will work just fine. Moly is important for your application because it is the ideal lube for sliding friction.  Grade 2 grease outperforms 90W gear oil in every respect since it has low shear, high film strength, and won't seep away over time (plus it works in grease guns).

All of that isn't to say that gear oil is wrong - that's what's in the workshop manual! - but that moly grease should provide better lubrication in this application. It also would not surprise me to find that the manuals predate the availability of moly grease!

Anyway, thanks again for a great video. If you continue with them, it will make it easier for the next restorer!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,October 15, 2014, 02:49:14 PM
New blogpost!

Restoration of the front calipers!

From this:

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/calipers/P1090829.jpg)

To this:

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/calipers/P1120950.jpg)

Link:
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1357 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1357)


Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,October 15, 2014, 08:22:26 PM
Fabulous write-up, Serge!!! I was going to attempt a similar rebuild when I started on my car many years ago but ended up getting Richard's vented front disc kit so I didn't need to. I may give it a try so I can sell them and your experience will be very useful! Thanks!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: LotusJoe on Wednesday,October 15, 2014, 08:42:11 PM
Serge,
Great job!! I would have just thrown those old calipers in the trash. Good save  :beerchug:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Thursday,October 16, 2014, 05:12:33 AM
Wow! Great save. Nice work Serge.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Grumblebuns on Thursday,October 16, 2014, 10:45:53 AM
Very helpful write up. When I did my caliper rebuild awhile back, I elected not to split my calipers. That probably made the job doubly difficult but was achievable. The hardest part was getting the old pistons out. Three of the four came out with compressed air, the fourth was stuck pretty bad. I first tried one of those brake piston removal tools. I could get the piston to rotate a couple of degrees in the bore but did not have enough leverage to pull it out. I finally had to resort to using the front brake hydraulics to push the piston out.

For my next caliper rebuild, I'll have to find some of that brake grease to protect the bore and piston from corrosion.

Joji Tokumoto
Fallbrook, Ca   
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,October 20, 2014, 02:55:59 PM
I'm being featured on CarBuildIndex.com with my restoration blog and video series!

http://www.carbuildindex.com/34991/reader-submission-a-very-special-1967-lotus-europa-s1-restoration/?utm_campaign=twitter&utm_medium=twitter&utm_source=twitter (http://www.carbuildindex.com/34991/reader-submission-a-very-special-1967-lotus-europa-s1-restoration/?utm_campaign=twitter&utm_medium=twitter&utm_source=twitter)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,October 20, 2014, 03:14:34 PM
That's wonderful!!! You are getting the recognition you deserve!  :trophy:  :beerchug:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: LotusJoe on Monday,October 20, 2014, 08:05:33 PM
 :trophy:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,January 27, 2015, 09:32:28 AM
I've finally found some time to edit another video!

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/brakecalipers.PNG)

In this video I'll show you how to bring a set of Girling 14LF calipers back from the dead. These were very rusty and I was doubtful if they could be saved, but they look near perfect when I was done with them. These are the original 1967 calipers that were on the car since it was new.

Link:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUJuW6Ho2LY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUJuW6Ho2LY)

Enjoy!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,January 27, 2015, 11:26:00 AM
Another great video, Serge!! I did note that you said you used POR15 but the can said POR 20!  :)

Hopefully, when they get hot, the bubbles won't return.

Thanks for the great how-to for restoring brake calipers. Well done!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,January 27, 2015, 11:49:05 AM
Good eye, BDA! The POR20 is the heat resistant version of the POR15, but I'm not impressed. I do fear the bubbles coming back. If so, I'll paint them with something else, or have them zinc plated.


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,January 31, 2015, 08:30:42 AM

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/competitionradiusarmmounts/P1120025.jpg)

I've written a quick blog post and added +/- 20 pictures about the 'competition' radius arm mounts that I built last year.

They replace the original rubber mounts with a spherical bearing.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1417 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1417)


Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Saturday,January 31, 2015, 08:57:00 AM
Great write up and great modification! The way Lotus designed that joint always seemed shoddy to me. This is a big improvement!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Sunday,February 01, 2015, 06:02:03 AM
I am NOT a suspension design expert but I do recall reading that the large rubber mount was used to cure some wicked high-speed handling traits.  There are HD versions of the mount available.  Why not ask Richard?  Just don't want your obit reading "Exited stage left, pursued by a Europa."
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,February 01, 2015, 06:24:28 AM
One thing that they changed from the early cars to the later cars was mounting the rubber to the inside of the chassis in stead of on the outside face. They did this because this changed the toe of the rear suspension and this cured some high speed handling issues. I've accounted for this change and the toe is easily set by adding or subtracting washers in this new setup.

Richard at Banks sells his own version of these spherical bearing mounts, so the inherent design is OK I think.


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Sunday,February 01, 2015, 07:06:41 AM
Richard's the man.  Just wanted to make sure.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,February 01, 2015, 10:10:02 AM
Richard IS the man!

Jensen Motors used the same idea but a different implementation in their TCS race car for SCCA C Production. They added a bracket to the frame for the trailing arm attachment to give it double shear and modified the trailing arm to take a rod end at the leading end.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Sunday,February 01, 2015, 11:50:46 PM
Yes, now you mention it I remember the Jensen Motor's conversion. The disadvantage with their method is that it's a major mod on the arm and not so easy to go backwards should you decide you didn't like it.   I think it's ok for race or  track but not something I'd consider for a road car.  At least with Serge's idea it's just a case of bolting in the standard or polyurethane bush.

I suspect the reason there's so much rubber in the mounts is to reduce noise and vibration, I can't see any other reason why they'd use such a large bush when they'd know the amount of movement they'd get on the suspension arm. I guess it's all down to what you want the car for and how you drive it ?

Brian
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,February 02, 2015, 07:04:29 AM
Could be. My thought was that it was they got a good deal on a lot of them!  :) I never understood how they devised that. The bush in the trailing arm is oversized for the bolt that fits the rubber bush.  :confused:

The Jensen solution is technically better because that bolt is in double shear rather than single, but from the pictures, it looks like the range of toe adjustment is a lot smaller. I think Richard's/Serge's solution is better for a car that would be driven on the street for that reason as well as it it could be brought back to the stock configuration easier (except that Serge said he's going to drill out the bush in the trailing arm). I also don't think there is a serious problem with the bold bending so the practical difference is negligible.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,February 02, 2015, 07:54:39 AM
There are some things that were brought to my attention that I will have to look into once it's all finished.

Firstly the reason for the big bush: When tightening the big bolt holding the trailing arm on, the rubber will expand a bit and grip the circumference of the big hole in the chassis. Apparently this will help to fix the bush to the chassis, because the two bolts holding the mount in wouldn't be strong enough on their own.

- Now, I'm not so sure of this, but it looks to be a reasonable explanation, anyone has any views on this?

The second thing that I need to be careful of, is that there are some shear strengths that will be going towards the circlip holding the bearing in. I'm not sure how much strength there will be applied in this direction, or how much this circlip can take.

- This we'll only be able to find out once the car is driving, and it could be an issue.


This is one of those times that I'm quite glad that all the modifications that I make are easily reversable. There are a lot of experimental pieces on this car and there will be some that will not work as well as intended.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,February 02, 2015, 09:18:37 AM
I just checked the documentation on my old Lola T492 S2000 race car and the spherical ball joints on the upper and lower front A-arms were, as I thought, retained by circlips. A wide washer that allows enough misalignment in the ball joint on your set up, Serge, might be a good safety feature.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Monday,February 02, 2015, 09:19:42 AM
  (edited/part quote)
Firstly the reason for the big bush: When tightening the big bolt holding the trailing arm on, the rubber will expand a bit and grip the circumference of the big hole in the chassis. Apparently this will help to fix the bush to the chassis, because the two bolts holding the mount in wouldn't be strong enough on their own.

- Now, I'm not so sure of this, but it looks to be a reasonable explanation, anyone has any views on this?

The second thing that I need to be careful of, is that there are some shear strengths that will be going towards the circlip holding the bearing in. I'm not sure how much strength there will be applied in this direction, or how much this circlip can take.
Hi Serge,

I'm not sure on the expansion theory because the bush has a steel insert which will limit the amount of compression on the rubber -  the big washers will nip it and then stop further compression/expansion.  My assumption why Lotus stipulate the thick large diameter washers either side of the rubber is to hold everything together should the steel insert disbond or pull free ?

I've never really thought too much about the loads in that area, my first guess is that it's mainly fore & aft during acceleration & braking along the axis of the car, which would place the two smaller bolts almost in shear.  A slight bending moment on the chassis given the angle, but I wouldn't have thought it enough to break the bolts, more likely to distort the thinner chassis section if anything.

I think your mod will be fine, your work is excellent and it all looks well engineered.  I have no idea about the security of the circlip, my thoughts would be to sandwich the joint either side with large washers, not enough to limit movement/adjustment, but large enough that should the joint fail, it won't all fall apart in similar vein to Lotus and the OEM rubber bushes.  (that would be rather upsetting if you were driving at the time  ;)   )

Brian
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Monday,February 02, 2015, 09:21:16 AM
I just checked the documentation on my old Lola T492 S2000 race car and the spherical ball joints on the upper and lower front A-arms were, as I thought, retained by circlips. A wide washer that allows enough misalignment in the ball joint on your set up, Serge, might be a good safety feature.

 :)

great minds think alike !  You must have posted that last comment while I was still struggling with the spil-chucker.....
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,February 02, 2015, 09:31:17 AM
 :) You didn't have a T492 also, did you?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,February 02, 2015, 11:16:33 AM
And while you were all posting this, I was adding big penny washers to the mount! Great minds think alike?! If the circlip will break now (which doesn't look like it would happen, there isn't any flex), the radius arm won't fall off.

Thank you all for your thoughts on this subject, I'm hoping everything will work out fine, if not, time will tell.

Serge

Edit: BDA, the owner of #460040 (going to be restored soon) here in Belgium does have a T492! As well as a Lotus Eleven, Elise S1, R340 and some other cool stuff! I'll try to make some more pictures and video next time I visit him or he comes to see me.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,February 02, 2015, 12:03:48 PM
Thanks, Serge! I'd love to see them. He sounds like a lot of fun to visit! It's been a long time since I had my T492 and I'm amazed at the prices they get for S2000 cars now - but in actuality, when you consider inflation, the prices aren't that bad.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,February 13, 2015, 08:09:48 AM
I've edited my footage of the fabrication of the 'competition' radius arm mounts and made this short video:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Os40ns8NiI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Os40ns8NiI)

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Friday,February 13, 2015, 09:00:51 AM
Well done, Serge!! You're going to have a really sweet car when you're done!
 :lotus:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropatcSPECIAL on Saturday,February 14, 2015, 04:40:43 PM
Excellent Serge, well done
Stuart
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,March 27, 2015, 07:58:08 AM
I found some time to upload some new photographs and write a blog post.

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/rear-suspension/P1120035.jpg)

It is a very long one! 62 pictures!

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1564 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1564)

Enjoy!

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Friday,March 27, 2015, 08:47:18 AM
Another great job, Serge!! I like that you used helicoils in your aluminum threads - something I wish I had done when I built my car (for the life of me, I don't know why I didn't!). It was also cool how you rebuilt your radius arm and I'm really glad you found that crack in the inner lower link bracket! I'll bet you are too!

Keep up the great work and thanks for posting the links to your pictures and videos!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: blasterdad on Friday,March 27, 2015, 05:24:23 PM
Doing it right as always!
Taking the extra step to prevent future problems is never excessive, just part of doing the job correctly.
Your work is truly inspiring, & when it's completed you will have my vote for the most envied S1 on the planet !!!!
(unless you run across #0001) lol.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: StrawberryCheesecake on Sunday,May 24, 2015, 02:01:24 PM
Great thread, Serge. Inspiring stuff.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,August 02, 2015, 01:37:21 AM
Hi all,


I've been featured on Build-threads.com with my blog and video series! Check it out in the link below.

http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/lotus-europa-barn-find-restoration/ (http://www.build-threads.com/build-threads/lotus-europa-barn-find-restoration/)

Otherwise, I've just moved house after graduating university and started my new job. I've been DIY'ing on the house for the moment, but it's slowly getting finished. One of the next jobs will be cleaning out the garage so I can get back to working on the Europa. I'll also have to find some time to upload some new video, because there's a lot to be seen!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,August 02, 2015, 10:08:16 AM
Congratulations on being featured on Build-threads, graduating, and getting into your new house!!! That's a lot of good news!  :beerchug:

I didn't realize you had the oldest S1 in existence! That's pretty cool, too!  :beerchug:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,September 05, 2015, 05:04:12 AM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5Sp8MZmlfM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5Sp8MZmlfM)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,October 18, 2015, 01:26:03 PM
Uploaded another video!

This one is on the restoration of the rear suspension (apart from the rear bearing carriers, those are for the next video, to keep the length down).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLb9N0t8DJY

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,October 18, 2015, 07:19:46 PM
Another great video, Serge! I like the added touch of blocking out the radius arm so water and dirt could not get inside!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,October 19, 2015, 12:59:23 AM
If you saw the amount of dirt I had to scrape out of them, you'd have done the same. It wasn't a pleasant job!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: 3929R on Tuesday,October 20, 2015, 09:26:46 AM
It is great that you're both restoring this important car and video documenting the process. Well done man!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,October 25, 2015, 02:45:55 AM


(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/enginemounts/dynamic/P1130181.jpg-nggid03781-ngg0dyn-640x480x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/enginemounts/dynamic/P1130182.jpg-nggid03782-ngg0dyn-640x480x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.jpg)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/enginemounts/dynamic/P1130185.jpg-nggid03783-ngg0dyn-640x480x100-00f0w010c010r110f110r010t010.jpg)

I put in a little effort yesterday to upload some photographs and write a few words about them. So there's a new blogpost, on me building the competition style engine mounts using the original mounts as a base to start from.

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1626 (http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1626)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: blasterdad on Sunday,October 25, 2015, 06:20:36 AM
Outstanding work & blog as always!  :welder:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,October 26, 2015, 07:44:57 AM
I'm slowly getting up to speed on getting these videos out... Everything was filmed almost a year ago, but we're getting there!

New video online, restoring the rear bearing carriers:

https://youtu.be/e0VdBZLzsWQ
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,October 26, 2015, 08:28:38 AM
Another great video, Serge!

I used hot water to get the bearings out of the upright. This was specified in the TC workshop supplement, but I didn't see that spelled out in the S1/S2 workshop manual for some reason.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,January 04, 2016, 02:15:46 AM
Happy new year everyone!

New year, new video!

I managed to edit the video on making the poly bushed engine mounts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdnSkwT_Fco

Next up is the poly bushed gearbox mount that I made, I'll try to share it sooner rather than later...


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,January 04, 2016, 06:59:01 AM
Very nicely done, Serge! I was thinking that was a lot of work for something you can buy but I see Richard sells them for over 100 pounds each so it makes sense. I can't wait to see you start assembling the car! Keep up the great work.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,January 04, 2016, 07:09:39 AM
Yes, it is quite a bit of work, but if you don't count the hours needed to build them, you are better of making them yourself. The bushes and housings aren't expensive to buy. This car is definitely built, not bought...
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Chuck Nukem on Tuesday,January 05, 2016, 06:26:12 AM
Built not bought indeed!! Impressed as always!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: 460384 on Monday,January 11, 2016, 07:34:25 PM
Happy new year everyone!

New year, new video!

I managed to edit the video on making the poly bushed engine mounts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QdnSkwT_Fco

Next up is the poly bushed gearbox mount that I made, I'll try to share it sooner rather than later...


Serge

Excellent work and video as always very informative.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,January 17, 2016, 04:35:53 AM
Thank you all for the kind comments!

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/gearboxmount/P1130204.jpg)

I had some time to write up a post about the poly bushed gearbox mounts that I designed and built, so here it is:

http://sleurs-motorsport.com/?p=1674
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,March 20, 2016, 03:43:49 PM
And of course the video that has to go along with it!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MIobggnxCP8


Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,March 20, 2016, 06:38:44 PM
Another great video, Serge! I can't wait to see the rest of them!  :welder:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,July 18, 2016, 07:42:17 AM
A couple of new videos online, written article of the driveshafts is to follow.

Removing an S1 chassis:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGojk7Vff8M (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGojk7Vff8M)

Restoring driveshafts:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fnk6DBfz_Ko (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fnk6DBfz_Ko)

(http://sleurs-motorsport.com/wp-content/gallery/videoseries/driveshaft.PNG)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Monday,July 18, 2016, 08:58:47 AM
Thanks for the video. I'll watch all of it later, but it may prove helpful as I'm ripping the axels out of my Special in a couple of weeks for bearing and u-joint service. Cheers.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,July 18, 2016, 12:45:55 PM
I have a separate video coming on the installation of the stub axles in the uprights. I'll try to get it together soon.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Runningwild on Monday,July 18, 2016, 05:12:47 PM
Thanks Serge. I'll be at that point in a few weeks. Keep the videos coming. Tremendous help.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,January 02, 2017, 04:35:45 AM
New video online!

In this video I'll tackle the assembly of the rear suspension including the stub axles and drive shafts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tDs8oNti6A (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tDs8oNti6A)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Certified Lotus on Monday,January 02, 2017, 05:02:27 AM
Just found your restoration videos last night and watched a number of them. Excellent work Serge! I'm really impressed by your level of work and attention to detail. Even more impressed that you seem to be working in a garage that has limited tools and equipment. Very inspiring!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,January 03, 2017, 11:39:18 AM
Thank you for the kind words!

I have been working more and more on the Europa, but don't seem to find the time to upload any video or photographs. I'll post some quick phone-shots of some things I have been doing.

Made 2 S1 fuel tanks from scratch, refurbished the rear Carello light units with some better lenses, restored the original horn and restored 1 gauge (to test my method)

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,January 03, 2017, 12:48:33 PM
I'm watching your video now so I can't comment on it (but I'm not at all worried that I won't learn something!), but I wanted to comment on your pictures. That's really great work! The tanks look great and your restoration of your gauge and tail lights came out great! Tackling the restoration of your gauges will save you a lot of money!

Thanks for your new video and I hope your build continues to go smoothly so you'll be driving your baby soon!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,January 03, 2017, 03:49:12 PM
Where's the vacuum gauge from?  They didn't come with one originally.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,January 03, 2017, 11:03:55 PM
The vacuüm gauge is an aftermarket item that was added by a previous owner, it won't by going back in the car. It was a good gauge to check how well I could restore the instruments.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Tuesday,January 03, 2017, 11:24:48 PM
Where's the vacuum gauge from?  They didn't come with one originally.
I bet it's aftermarket John, they were very popular in the 60s/70s over here and something young lads (me ! ) usually fitted in every car they had.  My dad even fitted one to his 3-wheel car at the time !  The one Serge shows is very reminiscent of what I had then. 
Brian

Edit to add - woops, I must check for posts between me starting to write and eventually pressing "send".   
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,May 29, 2017, 05:07:56 AM
Trying to get some videos up. Been trying to work on the car more, so need to get these videos up. These have been filmed more than a year ago!

https://youtu.be/QYB3KBvy3SI

Making an aluminium coolant swirl pot!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,October 18, 2017, 12:03:37 PM
Another video uploaded!

Next video to edit is the first one that I filmed with my new camera (more than 2 years ago!). I have a very large backlog of footage that I need to edit and upload, but were are getting there!

Serge

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fi_UhwxRnMs
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: 4129R on Wednesday,October 18, 2017, 12:15:18 PM
Where's the vacuum gauge from?  They didn't come with one originally.
Always remember to fit the vacuum gauge on the wife's side of the car.

It makes them feel at home.

I never got around to fitting one in any 70's car I owned, as I didn't really know what it was supposed to do.

Self cleaning car?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,October 18, 2017, 12:36:08 PM
Quote
Another video uploaded!

Another great video, Serge! I would make a few minor points:

As a rule, I would install shims dry so the gap they are keeping isn't changed.

It is also important to get the right preload on the inner tie rod end assembly. If the tie rod assy. is too loose, it can make the car a bit unstable. (ask me how I know) IIRC correctly, it is supposed to take about seven pounds to move the tie rod.

Those are minor points though. When you're done - if you keep editing them - you will have a great video guide to building an S1.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,October 18, 2017, 12:40:16 PM
I tested the preload with the weights, but could not find any video of it, not sure If I did record it.

T
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,October 18, 2017, 02:10:20 PM
For steering boxes I use semi-fluid grease (aka: steering box lube).  It's a bit more on the liquid side and flows around inside better as the rack goes from side to side.  Don't have any?  Dilute the chassis grease with gear oil to make it more fluid.  Rebuilt already with chassis grease?  Add gear oil through the lube hole covered by the non-pinion side mount.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,October 24, 2017, 02:16:20 PM
Thanks for the tip, John. I'll dilute the grease with some gear oil.


I'm trying to get this back-log of videos on the internet. Short video this week,
replacing the heater tubes with aluminium. I haven't put a bead on the ends just yet, Might still weld a small bead around them to help keep the hose on.

Serge

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTrGy3ZBydU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTrGy3ZBydU)


Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,October 24, 2017, 02:30:30 PM
A couple of rivets at each end works just like a bead and is easily done in situ.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,October 25, 2017, 02:59:22 PM
I know of the rivet trick, but am a bit worried that he inner part of the rivet would impede flow of the already small inner diameter tubing. Considering what I hear about the lack of heater power, I am not sure if I want to hinder it any more. Not sure if it would actually need a bead, but would hate to figure it out the hard way...

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,October 25, 2017, 03:36:11 PM
Use shallow rivets and then crush them further with pliers.  Mine gives pretty good heat given that I don't run it in below freezing weather.  I use a 160° thermostat as well.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Wednesday,October 25, 2017, 11:26:46 PM
I guess fitting solid rivets would be the best method but almost impossible to install?
My only concern, if using blind rivets, is the possibility of the internal shank/head coming adrift and ending up drifting around in the coolant system?

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,October 26, 2017, 01:30:55 AM
I can TIG weld aluminium, so I'll quickly weld a few spots or bead around the end of the tubing. Should be fine after that.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Thursday,October 26, 2017, 05:03:34 AM
that would seem the best way, if you’ve got access?

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,October 26, 2017, 06:12:07 AM
The tubing is not permantly attached to my chassis, so that won't be a problem.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,November 28, 2017, 11:55:21 AM
Video on how I replaced the old rusty coolant pipes with new aluminium tubing.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wRCQzEdPb44
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Wednesday,November 29, 2017, 12:19:18 AM
Thanks Serge!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Europaforever on Friday,January 12, 2018, 01:40:26 PM
 :beerchug:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,February 04, 2018, 05:22:09 AM
New video online!

Restoring the original instruments!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UyBWbNYvxhg


At the moment I am doing all of the fiberglass work that is required, slow work, but quite rewarding!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,February 04, 2018, 04:08:19 PM
Another great video, Serge! I would guess that those tubes for your warning lights can be bought from a Smiths dealer. I think there is quite a lot of interest in restoring classic cars and those would be common replacement parts for those older cars.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Sunday,February 04, 2018, 11:26:37 PM
Hello Serge,
thanks for the latest video!
I’m looking forward to watching videos of the GRP repairs...

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,February 16, 2018, 12:45:50 PM
I'll try to get some fiberglass videos online!

In the latest installment I build my own aluminium fuel tanks. This was a first for me (like almost all of this!), but it worked out in the end!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDdLgLopw8g

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Friday,February 16, 2018, 01:30:39 PM
Another great video, Serge!

I had aluminum tanks made for my TCS at a local race shop when I was building my car (I didn't know of any aluminum reproduction tanks at the time). After the shop finished welding the tanks, they put some coating on the inside. I think the coating was to ensure leaks would not arise down the road. I don't know what the coating was but they said it was the way to go. You might want to research this in case it ends up being something you want.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,February 16, 2018, 01:56:18 PM
I know of some coatings to protect from the ethanol in modern fuels, but not sure if they would plug leaks. I’ll need to research it a bit more.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: RoddyMac on Friday,February 16, 2018, 02:16:16 PM
I just "sloshed" mine with RedKote, it does fill pin holes (up to 1/32" or just under 1 mm).  I'll keep the group posted on the results or when I actually fill the tanks with petrol.  The prep for Redkote was simply wash the tanks out, let them dry, then dump the material in and roll around (30 seconds per side). 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,February 22, 2018, 02:24:58 PM
I've done some research and there are some fuel tank coatings available on this side of the world, so I might need to coat these before I will be using the fuel tanks.


New video online! Restoring the rear light units. I restored the housings and got 'new to me' lenses online. I also got new electrical connections, but these haven't made it into the video. I still need to figure out how I'll be mounting these in the housings.

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkUQzXIMQ6U
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Thursday,February 22, 2018, 03:10:29 PM
Great job on those tail light lamps, Serge!

Did the transaxle not have a provision for a reverse tail light switch?! Were they not required on cars in Europe and England back then? That is surprising to me.

Did the brake fluid help the lens gaskets? I was thinking you might want to make tracings of those rubber gaskets in case you want to try to make your own replacements. Even if they're made with flat rubber, they should still work pretty well. I thought Eastwood used to have a rubber "casting" kit to make new rubber gaskets but I can't find them now. Maybe somebody else makes something for that.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Thursday,February 22, 2018, 10:17:42 PM
I've done some research and there are some fuel tank coatings available on this side of the world, so I might need to coat these before I will be using the fuel tanks.

Is it considered normal practice these days to internally coat new Al tanks ? When I made mine in the late 80s/early 90s I just welded up the Al, used Dye penetrant testing on the seams (dye inside, developer outside) and left it at that.  They've got to be at least 25 years old now and no obvious signs of corrosion, which is really what I'd expect.

I would use a coating to rescue an old steel tank with internal rusting or porosity in places but I'm not convinced it's essential on a new one. What do the manufacturers do these days ?

Brian

ps - nice welding on the tanks BTW.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,February 22, 2018, 11:06:32 PM
I could not find a reversing switch on the transmission or the linkage, but the wiring had been messed with. The lenses being painted was clue no 2. Also there were electrical sockets for all of the lights in the unit, except reversing lights. My deduction was, that there probably never were any on this car.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Thursday,February 22, 2018, 11:18:46 PM
Hello Serge,

I know that some older cars would use a manually operated switch to operate the reversing light, is that a possibility?

Great work!

PS, what colour are you intending to paint your car?
Yellow, per your YouTube account credits?

(Apologies if you’ve already mentioned this!)

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,February 23, 2018, 03:29:28 AM
Could be, Mark. The electrics on my car were changed a lot in the course of its life. I have clue how it would look originally. Also unsure why there werent any bulb holders or why the lenses were painted. If somebody lost the bulb holders, which would surprise me, why paint the lenses?

I will be painting the car its original colour, Lotus Yellow L07.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Sunday,February 25, 2018, 11:39:56 PM
Serge,

Lotus Yellow is a great colour!

My car appears to have originally been Cirrus White, unfortunately Lotus don’t have any record of the original colour so I will look at the car’s hidden areas when it is being stripped.

I’ve watched a number of your videos with great interest as I will be carrying out the same tasks on my car (once I’ve completed the garage/workshop for it)

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bodzer on Monday,February 26, 2018, 12:02:40 AM
 Another great video Serge, thanks.

Admittedly mine is a much later car (1970), but I found the last part of the VIN and the colour written in black crayon on the side of the central tunnel.

I hope it helps.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,February 26, 2018, 12:04:41 AM
I've done some research and there are some fuel tank coatings available on this side of the world, so I might need to coat these before I will be using the fuel tanks.

Is it considered normal practice these days to internally coat new Al tanks ? When I made mine in the late 80s/early 90s I just welded up the Al, used Dye penetrant testing on the seams (dye inside, developer outside) and left it at that.  They've got to be at least 25 years old now and no obvious signs of corrosion, which is really what I'd expect.

I would use a coating to rescue an old steel tank with internal rusting or porosity in places but I'm not convinced it's essential on a new one. What do the manufacturers do these days ?

Brian

ps - nice welding on the tanks BTW.

Brian,

I think you are right that aluminium tanks on this side of the world don't really get any coating in them. My guess is that the reason for this not being the case in Europe, compared to the US, is the ethanol contect in our fuels. The ethanol content of fuel in some states of the US is quite high, and this will attack the aluminium. However, over here this is only starting. They made quite a fuss about our 95RON in Belgium, because since last year it containts 10% ethanol. So I could do this to prevent any trouble in future, but am not quite sure about it.


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,February 26, 2018, 12:07:54 AM
Another great video Serge, thanks.

Admittedly mine is a much later car (1970), but I found the last part of the VIN and the colour written in black crayon on the side of the central tunnel.

I hope it helps.

I was looking for hand written VIN numbers everywhere. Especially inside the doors. Only place that I have been able to find this, is on the left rear wing. Once all of the paint and gelcoat was removed you could clearly see "REAR WING #02". I have a photograph somewhere, but can't find it at the moment.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Monday,February 26, 2018, 12:51:34 AM
Brian,
I think you are right that aluminium tanks on this side of the world don't really get any coating in them. My guess is that the reason for this not being the case in Europe, compared to the US, is the ethanol contect in our fuels. The ethanol content of fuel in some states of the US is quite high, and this will attack the aluminium. However, over here this is only starting. They made quite a fuss about our 95RON in Belgium, because since last year it containts 10% ethanol. So I could do this to prevent any trouble in future, but am not quite sure about it.
Serge
I think the corrosion aspect could make a debate all on it's own, there seems to be a wide range of views between "Armageddon" and "nothing to see here".  I get the corrosion aspect with Ethanol but it's also temperature dependent and inhibited by water content which I haven't seen as widely quoted.

I've had steel petrol tanks corrode internally due to moisture content as the tank breathes so I suspect my Al tanks aren't going to have a problem because you only need 50ppm of water to inhibit. And I'll bet the tanks see that even during our tropical English summers.....   ;)

If you were running a sealed system with anhydrous conditions then it could well be different, in which case I'd look for the  water content in typical fuels. If this (ethanol corrosion) becomes a large scale problem then I'd expect the fuel companies to be including 100 ppm in their spec because there are a lot of cars out there with aluminium alloys in the fuel delivery system.

This isn't something I know much about, so if you find anything new I'd be interested in your research.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,February 28, 2018, 11:42:25 AM
New video! A very short video on a boatload of work! Stripping paint, I did it all by using a very sharp putty knife to chip off all of the top layers of paint (red-green-original yellow). Afterwards I sanded down the primer and the gelcoat to bare fiberglass using an electric DA sander.

Couldn't really make an interesting video about something as boring as this. It took me a lot of time to get to a bare fiberglass body. I needed to go to bare fiberglass to be able to redo all of the old repairs and repairing the damage.

I am slowly getting up to date with all of my videos!

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FudpR_v4og


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,February 28, 2018, 01:03:35 PM
Reinforce where the a-piller meets the roof by bonding in a bent/shaped piece of flat metal.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: surfguitar58 on Wednesday,February 28, 2018, 01:08:16 PM
Great video Serge! The cat should get star billing.  ;D Interesting that the old paint is coming off in nice clean sheets. Looks like you have a good surface to work with underneath. The heat gun should help. Be careful of that subtle temperature difference between softening paint and softening paint AND fiberglass. Keep up the great work!
Tom
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,February 28, 2018, 01:18:25 PM
Yes, the cat is a star!

I have completely finished stripping the body and am halfway through the fiberglass work. Video's of this will follow shortly.

Reinforcing the A-pillar is a good idea. Most of the body is really sturdy, but that is one section that could be stronger.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,February 28, 2018, 01:23:58 PM
One of mine cracked when installing the windshield :-(
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,March 19, 2018, 11:26:40 PM
Uploaded another video, the subject isn't that exciting this time. I restore the wiper motor.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CxLW6xkKL0&t=872s

Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 12:13:47 AM
Hi Serge,

YouTube had already suggested the video to me!

Thanks for the video, they’re all of interest to me!

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 02:21:02 AM
Next video will focus on the body. I have been working on the fiberglass repairs for the last 6 months, and I am now doing the front left corner and it is pushing me. I am not sure if I will pull this one off. I tried to get a repair section locally, but wasn't that easy. Shipping from the UK put me off for such a large piece.

It had been damaged quite badly and the repair was not great, so I am redoing all the repairs. Quite succesful as of yet. Hopefully this one will turn out OK too.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 04:08:29 AM
Hello Serge,

I’ve messaged you...

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 06:05:18 AM
A few comments on overhauling wiper motors:

- Take photos so you know which way the wheel box fits.  Dunno about your luck but I usually get a 50/50 wrong.

- The field coil housing needs to be marked so it goes on the same way.  Some are indexed but not all.  So mark it to be sure.

- They are a bit on the weak side.  We used to rewind the armature with more coils for a little more oomph.

- The large wiper gear has a cam on the reverse side which operates the park switch.  I'm sure you did this but the gear needs to be removed, cleaned and the bushing and cam greased.

- The rack should not be stiff in the housing at all.  I did not like how yours was working even after it was greased.  It is just ordinary tubing (imperial) with simple single flares at each end so it is easy to make up another.

- The circlip you broke does not like to be spread. Just slip in one side and then press down on the other to fit.  It won't break that way.

- Both the armature bushings have felts that need to be oiled prior to reassembly.

- There is a ball bearing in the non-gear end of the armature.  You need to be careful that it stays in place.  Use some light grease to hold it and to lube it during operation.

- The armature has an endplay adjustment.  It is critical to smooth, long-lasting operation.  You want virtually zero-play with no preload.  It's tricky to adjust because the large gear and the field magnets also provide resistance.  So, it's better to fit the armature before fitting the rack cable and housing.  I also usually run the motor at this stage to make sure it runs easy and free without play.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 06:08:48 AM
Thank you, John! Looks like I need to revisit the wiper motor again! I haven't gone through all of the above steps!

You live and learn!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 06:12:23 AM
Use an industrial single coat paint rather than the three part system you are using now.  I use Rustoleum semi-gloss black to good effect.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 06:32:47 AM
When I was building my car, I took mine apart and it seemed to go back together okay and seems to work ok, but now I'm thinking I should take mine apart and rebuild it using your instructions, John! Thanks for them!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Tuesday,March 20, 2018, 09:07:41 AM
Thanks for the presentation, Serge. I'll check it out when I get to a computer that can view youtube. I have been having issues with my wipers, so I'm sure your video will come in very handy. Cheers.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: dakazman on Thursday,March 22, 2018, 04:58:54 AM
Serge

Next video will focus on the body. I have been working on the fiberglass repairs for the last 6 months, and I am now doing the front left corner and it is pushing me. I am not sure if I will pull this one off. I tried to get a repair section locally, but wasn't that easy. Shipping from the UK put me off for such a large piece. 

Keep moving forward , bodywork is a time sucker and I’m sure you can push thru it. 😅
In a way you are putting your signature on it, thru the rest of its life. Post some pics.

Your video’s are an inspiration to the community and you need an Southern,” At a boy”.

Dave
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,March 28, 2018, 01:14:53 PM
Thank you all for the advice and the kind words! Helps to keep me going!

In this video I show you all of the repairs that we have to do. Most of them are done at this point, but this I'll show this in the future.

https://youtu.be/5Xdp31tSdTE

Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,March 28, 2018, 01:45:36 PM
That's a lot of work! One thing I'd mention, and something I wish I had done, is that it would be a good idea to strengthen the top of the A-pillar where it meets the roof. At least on the TC, that seems to be a weak point.

Covering the entire care in veil, or gauze, or whatever you want to call it (light weight mat). You mentioned fabric. I figured you misspoke but just in case you didn't, I wanted to warn you against using fiberglass cloth. It is pretty much impossible to get rid of the weave. It bleeds through the paint.

Another great video, Serge! Just remember not to fiberglass the cat!  :FUNNY:
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,March 28, 2018, 04:35:24 PM
+1 on the A pillar reinforcing on all Europas.  Mine cracked when I was fitting the windshield!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: buzzer on Thursday,March 29, 2018, 12:28:27 AM
BDA serge, to cover fibreglass repairs and repairs where the gel coat has been removed. It’s referred to here as tissue. And it is almost like tissue paper. Use it effectively to replace the gel coat.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,March 29, 2018, 02:23:26 AM
Yes, I meant tissue. I will be using 80gr/m2, just a bit heavier than tissue.

This is not to replace the gelcoat, because gelcoat doesnt have any strength.

The tissue is meant to reinforce the surface, to prevent any repairs or star-cracks to show through. You essentially treat the entire body as one big crack. Remove the gelcoat and apply tissue with resin (polyester resin unlike epoxy doesnt have any real strength.) The actual surface will be sealed with a sprayable polyester body filler, in stead of gelcoat. I am using the Miles Wilkins book as a guide.

Reinforcing the A pillar is on my to-do list!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Thursday,March 29, 2018, 05:26:40 AM
BDA serge, to cover fibreglass repairs and repairs where the gel coat has been removed. It’s referred to here as tissue. And it is almost like tissue paper. Use it effectively to replace the gel coat.

Right, buzzer. I more often heard it called veil or gauze but it's they're the same thing as tissue.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: GavinT on Thursday,March 29, 2018, 08:32:25 AM
Not quite the same thing but both are primarily intended help hide the course strands of the heavier chopped strand mat.
That said, people do seem to use the terms interchangeably.

I used the same as Serge - 80gr/m2 tissue.
Tissue is maddeningly wispy in use but the 80gr/m2 stuff is a bit better.

I couldn’t find any 80gr/m2 locally and ended up buying a 100 meter roll direct from the manufacturer . . and obviously still have about 90 meters left.

But veil . . now that’s the stuff to use I reckon.
It’s so much better behaved than tissue.

Here’s a pic I stole from the interwebs.
Note the lower left corner -  “Knit Veil”.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: GavinT on Thursday,March 29, 2018, 09:18:11 AM
G’day Serge,

Great video as always.
Your body doesn’t look too bad actually; have seen a lot worse.

Those red patches around the left headlamp appear to be fibreglass reinforced filler?
It’s really good stuff actually but looks like they used it more liberally than I’d have liked.

It’s difficult to be certain about how the repair was performed as the camera is moving, of course. You might be able to grind the red stuff right back and find the original pieces under where and they just skimmed it with the reinforced filler.

Keep at it, mate.  :)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,March 29, 2018, 09:32:50 AM
I don’t think it’s filler, doesn’t feel that way when sanding. Looks like a red tinted resin. It doesn’t look top bad, but once you get into it, sometimes there isn’t any good material left. Left front is almost entirely made from the stuff. But I’ll be able to show you how and why in one of the next videos.

Main theme here is:
Find a small corner that you don’t like,
Start peeling, remove the whole repair (surface wasn’t keyed or cleaned, lots of dirt and paint underneath)
Repair again, properly.

But most of it is okay,
Left front is the main issue,
Headlight section is salvageable, but a lot of work.
The part below the bumper I’ll remake using a pattern made from the right side.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Wednesday,April 04, 2018, 10:39:52 PM
if you should find that it’s beyond salvaging as it is, maybe a section from a broken car (or a new repair section) can be grafted into place?
Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Jerryh on Saturday,April 07, 2018, 01:47:40 AM
Serge
Try Boss Motors in Norfolk UK he'll make the section you need for the front, don't think he's got any S1 moulds but the early S2 will be the same profile. Call Mick 01953 850522
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: 4129R on Saturday,April 07, 2018, 05:08:56 AM
S1 shells in his front yard.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,April 07, 2018, 10:50:36 AM
Thank you al for the help and advice. I think I might be able to repair it without the repair section. A few more days in the workshop will be decisive.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Saturday,April 07, 2018, 11:15:35 AM
Good luck, Serge! I hope you're successful!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,May 20, 2018, 11:42:23 PM
For those who don't follow the facebook group, I've uploaded a new video. In this video I deal with the dreaded door hinges!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OQpXjrPaYDE

PS: The fiberglass work is going well! Only some minor adjustments needed in the headlamp area. Lower left corner still needs replacing, but I think the moulds I took will work. Now repairing the centre of the nose.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Nockenwelle on Monday,May 21, 2018, 05:18:54 AM
Hi Serge,

I did watch some of your videos and the latest one where you remove the door. You are really my die-hard Europa S1 restoration hero :trophy:
Your car does need an awful lot of work and you just keep going on. My deep respect for your patience and stamina.

I'm not located that far away from you as I am living between Aachen and Köln. So maybe we can meet one day when both of our cars a running.

Klaus
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,May 21, 2018, 06:28:55 AM
Thank you for the kind words, Klaus. I only live an hours drive from Aachen, so if the car I finished we need to meet up!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: TCS4605R on Monday,May 21, 2018, 05:13:17 PM
Serge - I found the same red stuff on my car when sanding off the old paint and primer - the red stuff was under the primer.  I think it was the original gelcoat or whatever Lotus used as a release agent from the molds.

Tom
74 TCS - 4605R
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: TCS4605R on Monday,May 21, 2018, 05:34:39 PM
Serge - when I did fiberglass repair on my car, I applied three layers of 3/4 oz. fiberglass matt under the front fenders to keep rocks thrown up from the front wheels from cracking the paint.  I also plan on glueing a 1/4 inch layer of closed cell rubber sheet under the fenders than cushion the rock hits.  You might consider doing this.

Tom
TCS 4605R
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,May 21, 2018, 10:08:19 PM
Tom,

The red stuff is almost certainly red tinted resin and not original. Only present on area’s that have very obviously been (badly) repaired.

Original paint on my car were: light grey gelcoat, thock white resin based sealed layer, dark grey primer, Lotus yellow top coat.

I’m following the Miles Wilkins fiberglass book, and he suggests just using stoneguard to coat the inside of the wheel wells. I will be following his advice, that book is the fiberglass bible.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,June 02, 2018, 01:58:11 PM
Another short video made it's way online!

Restoring the handbrake lever mechanism.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GqrfRhK0nIo

Enjoy!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Saturday,June 02, 2018, 04:44:56 PM
Great video, Serge! I don't remember how the hand brake went together on the TCS but I'm sure it was easier than that! I think Chunky simplified this later! I hope yours works better than mine!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Saturday,June 02, 2018, 11:17:07 PM
The early handbrake levers are from Renault while the later ones are from Ford.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Monday,June 04, 2018, 04:27:16 AM
Hello Serge,

you’re another step closer....

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,June 18, 2018, 11:37:11 AM
I was talking with my nephew who welds the other day and the term "stack of dimes" came up. For some reason, I remembered that Serge used that term (probably a long time ago) and at the time, I didn't think anything of it but then it hit me that Serge is from Belgium where there are no dimes! I was tickled by that and impressed that the term is used even where they don't have dimes!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,June 20, 2018, 02:04:13 PM
I am considering all options for fabricating my inlet manifolds.

Could somebody measure the temperature of the flange of the exhaust manifold of a Renault engine (wedge or Crossflow) of a hot engine. Just need to know what kind of temperatures I can expect the intake manifold to endure.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,June 20, 2018, 09:41:21 PM
Brazing won’t work.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,June 20, 2018, 10:12:27 PM
Brazing won’t work.

I am considering high temperature thermoplastics.
But they only go up to 230 celcius, and I am afraid that this won’t do.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,June 20, 2018, 10:26:48 PM
It can get much hotter than that. 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: gideon on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 08:08:28 AM
Some measurements would still be very helpful I think.  The block itself shouldn't get much above 100 Celsius (I believe - though correct me if I'm wrong), and both the inlet and exhaust flanges are in close thermal contact with the block.  From what I've read, the exhaust manifold (or headers) could get up to 650 Celsius though, so a small distance one way or another could make a huge difference in temperature. 

An infrared thermometer is probably the most practical way to measure this.  I have one in the kitchen that I use for cooking.

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: gideon on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 08:35:26 AM
For what it's worth, I did spend a bit of time looking at some articles about new high temperature resins.  If things have to be made, then I'm keen on making them from composites if it's practical.  Bismaleimide resins looks like the most promising in terms of price/performance/practicality.  It is important to understand, I think, that there can be a big difference between the highest temperature a polymer can withstand, and the temperature that it can withstand on a prolonged basis, with repeated heating and cooling cycles. For example, here's a quote from a short 2014 piece on compositesworld.com .

"Toho Tenax Co. Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan) [...], announced on Nov. 6 its development of a new prepreg that offers super-high-heat and oxidation resistance, suited to automotive and aircraft engine compartments. The new bismaleimide resin pre-impregnated prepreg reportedly does not reach glass-transition below 320°C/608°F. It also maintains oxidation resistance without heat cracks under continuous use in the range of upper 200°C/392°F degrees. Conventional bismaleimide resin-impregnated prepreg has been used in high-temperature applications such as automotive and motorbike engine compartments, but it degrades due to resin oxidation after continuous use at high temperatures and forms microcracks after repeated heat expansion and contraction."
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 08:39:24 AM
I have a new quote going for cnc milling the manifolds, but they are looking into it to see if it’s feasable.

My thinking now, is milling the runners and getting the flanges cut on a waterjet, then TIG welding it all together.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 03:26:58 PM
Are you talking about intake or exhaust?  I have seen plastic intake manifolds so it could work for that.  For sidedrafts, it would require triangulated bracing.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 03:41:05 PM
My PT Cruiser has plastic intake manifolds but it is a cross flow engine. If the Renault is not a cross flow, I wonder  the heat would be too high for plastic intake manifolds but I only wonder. I have no experience or knowledge to go on.

I'm a bit confused. Can you TIG plastic or am I terribly misreading your post?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: gideon on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 06:32:17 PM
Maybe I can clarify - there is a thread about it on Facebook which I have been following.  Serge is trying to make an intake manifold for his wedge head Renault engine.  It will be used with a set of headers for the exhaust. It is designed to work with a pair of DCOE 40 carburetors or compatible throttle bodies, and also to work with the original cooling pipe arrangement.

He has been considering several options for making the manifold including (i) 3D printing with a special thermoplastic and (ii) making it in sections from aluminium using CNC and a water-jet, then welding the sections together.

As it happens, I also have a wedge head Renault engine and I'm hoping that Serge is going to build a nice manifold for me - which is why I have been following along closely. 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: GavinT on Thursday,June 21, 2018, 09:54:35 PM
My 2 cents worth.

With all these small volume projects, it inevitably comes down to a numbers game.
If it’s intended to make thousands or even a hundred, the set-up and design outlays can be more easily absorbed with the final cost spread being reasonable.

When considering just a handful or even in the tens, those initial outlays tend to dominate. Recent examples of rear uprights should provide some insight.
With that said, I’ve also been surprised with the willingness of some to bear those inherently high costs.

If it were me, I’d forget the idea of a plastic manifold altogether.
If quantities of 1 - 5 is envisaged, then cutting two plates and welding runners in between is hard to beat.
In practical terms and considering the sheer outlay of time, the effort spent on a jig for this is likely well worth it.

To do more than five, I’d consider sand casting. It likely depends on where you are but it’s certainly possible to find smaller foundries that are willing and able to take on small projects like these.
In this respect, 3D printing the manifold and cores would be an excellent way to do it.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,June 22, 2018, 11:08:43 PM
I agree, Gavin.

This is what I've got so far:

Sand casting:
€3650 for tooling
€145 per manifold for casting
will need machining

CNC aluminium
400 euro for the runners
+/- 100 euro for the flanges (stil waiting on quotes)
will still need welding and machining

3D printing in high temp thermoplastic
I can do the printing at home
about 100€ worth of materials for printing
will then need infiltrating with epoxy for strength and fuel resistance.

Sandcasting isn't too expensive,
but would need some commitment for some manifold from others,
would be too much to take the hit on, if I am left with 10 manifolds.

But I am leaning more and more towards the thermoplastic manifold. Cylinderhead temperatures will almost never reach 200°C (400°F), because the head and block wil act as a giant heat sink. If the head would reach that temperature, even the aluminium head would distort. If I had a running car, I would try it without hesistation, but am still a long way from that. A simple test would prove or disprove the idea. But you would need to pay attention to it, I wouldn't test it driving at first. If it shouldn't work, you'll have fuel spraying on the exhaust manifold.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: GavinT on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 07:17:36 AM
Hi Serge,

You mention €3650 for tooling for sand casting.
I’m wondering what exactly you get for that €3650?
I can only presume it’s the pattern, yes?

If you 3D print the sections & cores, you are essentially supplying the pattern but you’d need to integrate it on a board that suits his core box.
I was only peripherally involved in a small casting project here in Oz. The foundry guy explained what was needed and my friend made the pattern. That’s why I say it’s essential to find someone who does these small jobs. They are out there and are prepared to provide some guidance.

On the thermoplastic manifold, I reckon you’ll need to consider the proximity of the exhaust manifold, not the head. The exhause would get a lot hotter than 200°C.

Presumably the thermoplastic softens at some temperature point. What happens to the manifold over the longer term with the mass of the throttle bodies cantilevered out over that hot exhaust?

For me, I’d have to be convinced there’s zero chance of that manifold sagging and/or developing a leak and dropping fuel onto the exhaust.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: andy harwood on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 09:17:39 AM
FWIW, my brother in law owns a small machine/casting shop in Vietnam. This is something they are entirely capable of. Most of his casting business is for Japanese motorcycle companies. Intakes, footpegs, other brackets and other items. We'll be leaving Vietnam in a couple weeks, but will probably return around the end of the year. If you can supply some info, I can relay to him, see just how feasible/costly it would be. (although the logistics may be a bit hard to deal with) Pic is of one of his products.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 09:38:28 AM
Apologies in advance if I'm "teaching granny..etc" but these comments about thermoplastics caught my eye.  Now I'm at least 12 yrs out of this field but the idea of using a thermoplastic in a hot, stressed application rings a warning bell.  ( we had a lot of failures with engineers using polyprop/pvdf/ectfe well above sensible levels and the response was always "but it says xxxC in the book" )

I know you can get high temperature thermoplastics but generally speaking thermoplastics soften when warm so they can be reformed into another shape, so it's not the absolute temperature range on the spec sheet, it's the mechanicals vs temp that's interesting. For example, ptfe is stable at 300C but it's mechanical properties are gone well before that so it's the heat distortion temperature limit you need, not the maximum service temperature.   

So a manifold with a carb hanging off it would make me think more in terms of thermosets that thermoplastics. Epoxy for example is a thermoset which would probably work although I've no idea on exactly which specification you'd need for say 150C.    I did wonder if a carbon fibre/epoxy laminate might make a good choice, light, chemically resistant to fuel and you could lay up exactly the diameter/angles you need ?

I think metal might be the easiest/safest route, especially if you can buy pre-cut flanges and fittings as you do making exhausts up. Thin (1.2mm) stainless might be another option ?

Brian

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 10:09:46 AM
The thermoplastic is stable and loadable up to 230 centigrade.

Making the runners out of carbon/epoxy isn’t that difficult, because I can print the molds. But as you know, high temp epoxy is only good upto 170 centigrade.

The thermoplastic is also compatible with FG/CF/epoxy, so I could print and strengthen without issue.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: GavinT on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 05:05:02 PM
FWIW, my brother in law owns a small machine/casting shop in Vietnam.
[...]
Pic is of one of his products.

Andy, that looks like a very nice part . . and it's quite a thin casting too.
Could he accomodate small quantities?

I can see Europa manifolds and uprights in his future.  :)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: andy harwood on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 06:38:53 PM
I've not asked, but I'm pretty sure he can.
The probable only drawbacks are - distance, distribution, and import duties/taxes(?)
It may be the end of the year, early next year before we'll be back in VN.


https://youtu.be/6Mbh7hvYW5c (https://youtu.be/6Mbh7hvYW5c)
https://youtu.be/edRU054xcEo (https://youtu.be/edRU054xcEo)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Saturday,June 23, 2018, 10:23:01 PM
The thermoplastic is stable and loadable up to 230 centigrade.

Making the runners out of carbon/epoxy isn’t that difficult, because I can print the molds. But as you know, high temp epoxy is only good upto 170 centigrade.

The thermoplastic is also compatible with FG/CF/epoxy, so I could print and strengthen without issue.

Serge
Thanks for the info, I didn't realise that such materials were 3D printable, it just shows how much progress we make these days.  I'd have guessed 150C would be about all you'd need but I suppose it depends on the configuration and engine tune.  I know modern cars use a lot of plastic for intakes, etc, I just didn't realise these were also in the DIY area.

If you go that way I think it's going to be a fascinating project, I'll look forward to hearing more about it.  3D printing is the next level to sorcery for me, so you've got me hooked !

Brian
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,June 25, 2018, 01:51:39 PM
Water jet cutting flanges is really cheap. But CNC’ing the runners will be too expensive, they would be made outside of Europe, so import taxes would apply, so costs only keep mounting up.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,August 04, 2018, 02:16:03 AM
New video!

I made my own 'Oddie plates', these are the plates for the original quick release fasteners (Oddie brand originally).

The original ones are made from steel, and are very rusty. So with some trial and error, I managed to copy them in aluminium.

Enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkYDigTdMhw
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Saturday,August 04, 2018, 10:27:14 AM
Nicely done, Serge! Very clever!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Willa on Sunday,August 05, 2018, 12:45:27 AM
I too am in the process of making an intake runner system for my engine and think that fabricating is the way to go. I have been looking to see what conical tubes were already being manufactured and came across these, www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle-frame-tubing/NOVA-50.8mm-x-3.7-200mm.html

Whilst they are straight I think they could work quite well for a dcoe set up like I am planning and making then port match should be reasonably easy, just have to make sure the flanges are aligned properly. I am aiming for a 10inch runner so the manifold length should only need to be aprox 5.5 inches

Not sure if this is useful, however given the cost I will probably purchase 4 pipes and see what a manufactured manifold looks like.
Cheers,
Willa.

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,October 29, 2018, 03:41:17 PM
A few new videos uploaded in the last few weeks:

Painting the emblem:
https://youtu.be/cDVnJ-FZ76I

The first fiberglass repairs:
https://youtu.be/f4zH8IYHti4

New pedal assembly:
https://youtu.be/4DMYA8ojESo

Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Monday,October 29, 2018, 04:12:41 PM
Your S1 shouldn't have an "Europa" emblem.  That came later.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,October 29, 2018, 08:32:11 PM
I had already seen the emblem and fiberglass repair videos so I watched the pedal assembly video. It looks like you did a great job of making a nice upgrade for your pedals! Very nicely done!  :welder:

If you haven't gotten to installing the clutch cable yet, might I advise that you use a cablecraft cable (https://www.cablecraft.com/cables/control-cable-assemblies/)? I use cablecraft cables for both accelerator and clutch cables but I readily admit that using a push/pull control cable for the accelerator is WAY overkill. I do think they make a lot of sense for the clutch, though. They are self lubricating and pretty much indestructible and something less important for the clutch is that they are much more flexible than other similar cables. I got a turnbuckle in naval brass and a left hand threaded 1/4" spherical rod end (sometimes referred to as a rose joint or heim joint) to make it adjustable. It also required a small modification to the clutch arm. If you need, I can post some pictures, but it's pretty simple and I like it a lot better than the stock cable.

[edit]Thinking about it a bit more, another substitute would be a Morse cable or similar. Here in the states (and I expect on the other side of the pond), you can get them at boat shops. They're usually less expensive than and not as flexible as the Cablecraft cables but since the clutch cable is pretty much straight, they should do very nicely.

Thanks for the videos and good luck with the rest of your car!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,October 29, 2018, 11:28:00 PM
Your S1 shouldn't have an "Europa" emblem.  That came later.

You would think that,
however, in my engine cover, there are holes for this emblem. It might have been a 'Europe' emblem, but I have yet to have ever seen one. It is very clear that these are original holes, they are very accurate, very small and precisely the right size and location. Judging by the previous owners work, they could not have done it like this. I am 99% sure that these are original and meant for a badge like this. Maybe it should be a 'Europe' badge, in stead of a 'Europa' badge, but this is the one that came with the car.

If anyone can find me a 'Europe' badge, I will prefer it over the Europa one.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,October 29, 2018, 11:31:14 PM
I had already seen the emblem and fiberglass repair videos so I watched the pedal assembly video. It looks like you did a great job of making a nice upgrade for your pedals! Very nicely done!  :welder:

If you haven't gotten to installing the clutch cable yet, might I advise that you use a cablecraft cable (https://www.cablecraft.com/cables/control-cable-assemblies/)? I use cablecraft cables for both accelerator and clutch cables but I readily admit that using a push/pull control cable for the accelerator is WAY overkill. I do think they make a lot of sense for the clutch, though. They are self lubricating and pretty much indestructible and something less important for the clutch is that they are much more flexible than other similar cables. I got a turnbuckle in naval brass and a left hand threaded 1/4" spherical rod end (sometimes referred to as a rose joint or heim joint) to make it adjustable. It also required a small modification to the clutch arm. If you need, I can post some pictures, but it's pretty simple and I like it a lot better than the stock cable.

[edit]Thinking about it a bit more, another substitute would be a Morse cable or similar. Here in the states (and I expect on the other side of the pond), you can get them at boat shops. They're usually less expensive than and not as flexible as the Cablecraft cables but since the clutch cable is pretty much straight, they should do very nicely.

Thanks for the videos and good luck with the rest of your car!

I have thought about it! I ended up buying a new clutch cable from SJS, and I think it's also teflon lined, but not sure. I think I cheaped out for the push-pull cable because of the cost, was 3x as expensive as a new replacement from the specialists.

But would like to see some photographs of the mods needed, should I want to revert to my original plan.


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,October 30, 2018, 06:12:53 AM
Who knows which PO did the deed?  Perhaps they weren't all incompetent?

Early S1 at a show in period (not the best angle):

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-v6NSC7S/A

Early S1s from1967 French motoring newspapers:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-K9wmnMs/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-7KnqghS/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-Z7jDQxd/A

Early S1 in New York, May 1968 Motor Trend:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-gw2zTzQ/A

Early S1A in Canada, Lotus Canada ad:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-zvVq4LB/A

I have lots of period magazine tests and there is never a "Europa" or "Europe" emblem, nor "L-O-T-U-S" lettering, at the back of an S1 in period.  Many people added them.  Possibly because they were sick of being asked what it was.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,October 30, 2018, 08:06:45 AM
I agree that I have never seen any S1s with the badge present. These cars do however differ from one to the other. Many of the articles deal with the prototypes, they are different again.

 I have seen a badge like mine, with EUROPE written on it, once online in France somewhere. I do believe my car may have had one of those.

Not sure what I’m going to do with the badge. Will have to do some research and think about it.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,October 30, 2018, 08:43:23 AM
Yes, there were “Europe” emblems but seemingly not that many.

Also remember that the original Europa was meant as a Seven replacement so inexpensive (cheap) was the order of the day.  It didn’t work out so they went up market with the S2 adding an actual interior and even electric door windows.  There was virtually no badging on a Seven either.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,October 30, 2018, 09:58:54 AM
Here are a couple of pictures of my clutch cable setup.

The first picture is of the bulkhead attachment of the rear of the cable. (Sorry for the filthy under side of the car!) To the left of the headers is a fabricated aluminum "bulkhead." At the top left of the picture is the attachment of the rear part of the "bulkhead" to the attachment point for the diagonal cross member brace. I no longer needed that because I have Richard's twin link. At the bottom middle of the picture is the green sheath of the cable. I put the silver insulation around the end due to the proximity of the headers. I chose the threaded adjustment on both sides of the cable just because it seemed to give me the most adjustment in case I measured wrong. This is the page that displays the cable I used (https://www.cablecraft.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/CMC9008_Push-Pull-Standard-Flyer.pdf).

The second picture is of the adjustment mechanism. At the center of the picture is the turnbuckle made of naval brass. IIRC, I used the 1/4" size cable. The clutch arm required an extra "finger" to move it a bit further from the engine. I used rod ends but could have just as easily (maybe easier) used a clevis. I took a picture of the interior at the pedal assy. but all of the business end was covered by carpet. The only thing of note is that I used a piece of aluminum angle as the bulkhead for the cable attachment. I should note that the bulkhead attachment is a bit bulky. In the case of the clutch, the bulk is at the bottom and the only thing to note is that it doesn't allow the carpet to sit flat. There is no impact on the comfort or usable foot space.

The original cable does have a few advantages. You don't have to worry about getting the right size and the pedal end of the attachment is more compact but when I was building my car, I had been reading stories of people explaining how they lubed their clutch cable so it wouldn't break (I think I read of people breaking their cable). I didn't want to go through that. I also had a little experience with Cablecraft cables that I used on my race car back in the day and I was really impressed with them.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Wednesday,October 31, 2018, 08:18:14 AM
BDA, thanks for the info and links. An interesting solution for replacement cables.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: literarymadness on Friday,November 02, 2018, 11:36:28 PM
Here is the German Market only Europe badge.  Volkswagen owned the rights to the Europa name in Germany.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: literarymadness on Friday,November 02, 2018, 11:42:09 PM
Here is another one.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 12:12:12 AM
Thanks! Any ideas if the badges are on S2s or on S1s?

Next time I visit my workshop I am going to take a look at the position of the holes, if it doesn't look right, they might have been added by a DPO.

The car had been painted over 2 or 3 times, and all holes that were made for 'new' badges were clearly visible. Only after removing all the paint to the original finish, I found the original holes for the championship shields on the side, and the 'Europa' badge on the rear.

My S1 came with a ziplock bag of odds and ends, some original, some not, and some I don't know! The original shields were missing, losse LOTUS letters were there (which definitly are not original), it contained a black Lotus badge (also not original). But it did include the original gearknob. The Europa badge was there, so there is not certaintly if its original. The holes that were covered up do however point that there was a badge on that location, just not sure if it was this one.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: literarymadness on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 12:22:24 AM
The Tan colored one could be an S1b or at least a very early S2.  It is hard for me to read the vin.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: literarymadness on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 12:24:14 AM
The car definitely has S1a or S1b features.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 01:49:26 AM
Here is the German Market only Europe badge.  Volkswagen owned the rights to the Europa name in Germany.

That's interesting, I knew about the "EUROPE" badge but didn't realise it was only for the German market. I think there's sufficient evidence to support that the very first cars were called "EUROPE", if only by the factory during the development stages.

I've seen at least one magazine report showing an S1 going around a (Lotus ?) test track with the letters "EUROPE" very clear where the number plates would go on UK cars.  "car" magazine from June '67 has a blue one like this but refers to "Europa" in the text.

Chris Graham wrote a review for "Practical Classics" in which he claimed that the first S1's were sent to France in late '66 as "Europe". That sounds a bit early because the first UK releases were around December and it's hard to think they kept the production of a new Lotus out of the press for so long. It could be though, because the first UK reports I have refer to it as the "Lotus for Europe" although it is called "Europa" in the text.

In the Robinshaw book he shows reproductions of French PR in which the cars are shown as "LOTUS EUROPE" - a rough scan attached. 

So I think it's likely Serge that if your car had a badge of any sort then it would be the "Europe" one. And I'd expect it to be identical to the later Europa ones in terms of fixing pins which would explain the holes in the rear deck. Or alternatively your car might not have had any badges at all there but one of the previous owners "updated" the car to look like the S2 when that model came out ?

Brian
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 01:55:39 AM
No S1s were delivered to France in late 1966. My car #460002 was the first Europa delivered to a dealer, this was februari 1967 and it was delivered to West Side Cars in Amsterdam. This was confirmed to me by Graham, the Lotus archivist.

#460001 was a car used in the UK, I presume by Lotus themselves? No more information on that chassis. They lost a lot of the old archives in a factory fire years ago.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Nockenwelle on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 03:12:50 AM
I can confirm that the 'Europe' badge has been mounted to German Europas. A friend of mine owned a very original yellow S2 and it had worn this badge.

I tried to recognize the VIN on the picture above and it looks like *541007* to me but it's really difficult to read.
An early type 54 VIN would match the appearance of the car. Looks like it has proper seats -> S2.

I've never seen any badges on the rear of an S1.

Klaus
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 05:42:39 AM
The yellow Europa looks like an S2 to me but the photo is too small to be sure.  An S1a/b has rubber surrounding the opening door window while the S2 has a chrome surround.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: literarymadness on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 10:07:00 AM
This particular Europa was used in multiple articles dated from Dec 66 to Feb 67 (including several that JBCollier have already generously posted).  if you look at the caption, it doesn't seem like anyone is sure of the name LOL. I was always under the impression that the prototype S1 001 was the car that John Miles raced at Brands Hat in 1966 as a backup car to Jackie Oliver's production Type 47.  John Miles' prototype served as the basis for both the Type 46 and the Type 47. Of course which would make yours the first Type 46 sold to the public.  Who knows, that photo might even be of your car.  All those promo photos were taken before your car was shipped in 1967.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bodzer on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 11:57:39 AM
Doesn’t Richard Winter own SAR 857D?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 01:44:06 PM
The prototypes did not have a #4600XX serial number, they were called P5’s. Most of them were converted to 47’s. Some information in the article below.

http://www.lotus-europa.com/mann/mann.pdf

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: literarymadness on Saturday,November 03, 2018, 08:20:04 PM
Thanks Serge!  Great information. Answers a lot of my questions.

Wesley
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 03:02:00 AM
Just to quickly add to the debate on the 'EUROPA' badge on my S1.

The mounting holes are in the correct location for the badge. I have also looked in my collection of Europa S1 articles and flyers and I have found the original promotional material for the S1, from the actual dealership my S1 was sold from in 1967, and they mention the EUROPA name from the outset with the SAR prototype shown on the photographs in the flyer. So there is really no doubt in my mind that this badge would have come on this S1. It isn't common to see the badge on S1s, but all these cars are different from each other. Especially in the beginning of the production, they would have changed some things while building them.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 06:17:22 AM
Sorry Serge, I beg to differ.  Yes, the Europa name was used right from the beginning.  Well not quite, they had a few names kicking around at first.  One of which was the "Concorde".  No rear badging though until the S2:  no L-O-T-U-S letters, no Europa/Europe badge.  The only thing at the back was that the very early cars had "Odi" fasteners -- a good idea that shouldn't have been dropped.  Perhaps a few people added emblems after getting tired of being asked what the heck their car was.  It's also not uncommon to find S2 doors and windows put on as they are a lot more functional than what any S1 had.

So find me a period photo with the emblem in place and I will believe (hallelujah), but not until then.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 06:30:39 AM
PS: Most of the photos I posted of early cars can be blown up quite large so it is easy to see the lack of anything at the rear.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 01:22:34 PM
New video online!

https://youtu.be/fSnQlnpYpQg


I'll be trying to get back up to speed with the videos. A lot of loose ends need tidying up and a whole lot of fiberglass work!


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 01:46:27 PM
Yet another great video, Serge! Those filler necks are really nice! Are you sure you can get a fuel spout into them? It looks like you may have to turn them around so the flip up toward the rear window.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 02:17:47 PM
I’m hoping the car is low enough so it won’t be a problem, otherwise I need to flip it around like you suggest. I couldn’t see where the rear window sits in this bare state, once it’s in I might change the orientation.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Sunday,December 02, 2018, 08:46:55 PM
No worries, it will be low enough.  Having the pump nozzle handle towards the centre of the car works very well.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: JR73 on Monday,December 03, 2018, 06:36:38 AM
Doesn’t Richard Winter own SAR 857D?

Richard did indeed own SAR 857D, not 100% sure that he still does though as i've not called in for some time.

He had rebuilt it to race in the HSCC many years ago now - and it was a very bright yellow that he used to call 'Banks Racing Yellow' which obviously wasn't the original colour as seen in the press pics from when it was new (Red from memory?).
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,January 07, 2019, 01:57:35 PM
Another short fiberglass repair video!

https://youtu.be/Kbr92fi6ozo

Enjoy!

PS: I have edited a few more video's, so hopefully the next few will come in short order.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: dakazman on Monday,January 07, 2019, 04:32:47 PM
Nice video Serge,
  The body repairs are coming along nicely since your first video. Keep going! 👏👏👏
Dakazman
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Monday,January 14, 2019, 11:03:08 AM
I posted a bunch more period photos of early/prototype S1s.  Repeating here for serge's benefit.

Early S1s on the factory floor:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-XXVpHP3/A

Early S1/prototype out and about:

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-FX6Z4fQ/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-kwjW2LJ/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-PrSWhv7/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-MLxJfGv/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-P3JZRdN/A

https://jbcollier.smugmug.com/Lotus-Europa/i-dCwbXs5/A

In first photo you can see the outline of R16 park/signal light units which may mean this is a prototype.

Note the one-piece door windows, black on the insides of the door, no badging at the rear, oddie fasteners at the front and rear.

Photos came from ebay auctions that were unfortunately too rich for me to get the originals.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,January 25, 2019, 12:40:44 PM
Thanks John, your photo stream is a great archive for our cars!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nDNtQ4fcMyM

New video online! Restoring the heater box!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bodzer on Saturday,January 26, 2019, 12:50:37 AM
Thanks Serge. Nice job on the 3D printed knobs. Having just done mine, it’s interesting to see the differences between an early one and my 1970 heater.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,February 05, 2019, 12:50:10 PM
Iˋve been doing some engine work, this is the first video in a series on the engine. Currently I have most of the parts, some things are at the machine shop at the moment, but Iˋll show it all in due course.

Enjoy

https://youtu.be/KezFUOqgVac
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,February 05, 2019, 01:45:32 PM
Yet another great video, Serge. I know absolutely nothing about those engines so I'm probably all wet but I was wondering if using wood (either to cushion the steel or socket extension or in place of the steel or extension) for pounding out the liners and piston might have been better.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,February 05, 2019, 01:54:01 PM
Yet another great video, Serge. I know absolutely nothing about those engines so I'm probably all wet but I was wondering if using wood (either to cushion the steel or socket extension or in place of the steel or extension) for pounding out the liners and piston might have been better.

Yes, on the first one I took apart, I used hardwood. But hese wouldn’t budge and the wood just split on the edge of the liners.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Thursday,February 07, 2019, 09:17:38 AM
The oil pump shaft stuck because of deposit build up on the exposed shaft above where it run-in the block.  This is normal.  Coat it with solvent, penetrating oil, ATF, etc and clean it before trying to remove it.  You do not want to damage the bore in the block for the shaft.

The cam gear is cast and may crack if you pull it from the out side edge.  Best practice is to remove the crank gear and use a press and suitable supports to press off the cam gear close to the centre.

Mark the connecting rods carefully as to position and orientation.  I stamp the rod, cap and block so it is obvious how it fits for reassembly.

Rod/piston/sleeve assemblies are removed before the crank.  Do one at a time and COVER the any exposed rod stud/bolt threads.  It all too common to find crank journals damaged by rod threads!  I usually cover them with shrink tube.

I'm not keen on driving out the sleeves from the bottom.  You can damage them, as you did, and they can also easily crack.  Still use heat but pry them out from the top.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Thursday,February 07, 2019, 08:37:08 PM
PS: Who has adjustable cam pulleys?  I have seen fabricated ones but none that are available commercially.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,February 07, 2019, 10:05:01 PM
Hi John,

Thanks for all the tips! Catcams have the pulleys! They make billet Crossflow cams and supply many specialists worldwide. I am quite fortunate that they are local to me, they are regrinding my original cam to higher specs.

http://www.catcams.com/

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Friday,February 08, 2019, 04:58:52 AM
Very cool, thanks.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,February 20, 2019, 10:37:23 PM
I uploaded another video! Trying to do them every two weeks. More fiberglass repairs this time.

https://youtu.be/z0BXQBgV0kE

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Lou Drozdowski on Thursday,February 21, 2019, 06:37:34 AM
Serge,
Watched it yesterday, fun stuff...Keep plugging away.
 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Chuck Nukem on Wednesday,March 20, 2019, 02:41:10 PM
Serge you are very inspiring! I would like to do some videos like yours one day. The 3D printed intake was very interesting!!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,March 20, 2019, 08:30:02 PM
I second Chuck and Lou. This is great stuff!

Speaking of your intake manifolds, one thing I might do differently is to use straight threads instead of pipe threads for your vacuum taps for your ECU. Pipe threads put pressure on the surrounding plastic where straight threads would not. Obviously, there is no reason to change what you've got, but if you do find yourself in a similar situation, that might be something to consider. I also liked your solution to mounting your throttle bodies! I think that was a very cleaver solution!

She's coming along very nicely and it looks like she's going to be a screamer!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,March 20, 2019, 11:33:46 PM
Thanks for all the nice words!

There are some more videos coming, trying to do one every two weeks.

I agree about the tapered threads, would do it differently next time. But will see how this one works first.

3D printed intake manifolds:
https://youtu.be/zIVduZnAFRg

Oil pump:
https://youtu.be/xKi4X7PKAHo

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Tuesday,April 09, 2019, 12:54:54 PM
A long video this time!

A lot of work on my cylinder head!

https://youtu.be/Q7el4SiTRkY
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Tuesday,April 09, 2019, 02:06:58 PM
Another great video, Serge! When you were lapping the valves, it looked like there was a small step from the roof of the chamber to the seat of the exhaust valve. Was that a real step or was it something that you need there?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,April 09, 2019, 09:05:14 PM
A proper valve seat is roughly 2mm in width and hits the valve on on the outer third of its machined face but not all the way to the edge.  I use three cutters to refinish the seat and trim it to the correct width and diameter: 45°, 30° and 60°.  If you just lap in your valves you end up with a very wide seat that will not seal, nor last, as well.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Tuesday,April 09, 2019, 09:06:04 PM
... very nice work opening up and blueprinting the chambers!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 03:22:20 AM
The valve seats have a 3 angle valve job, so they have 3 different radius' on the valve seat, only one will actually seal the valve. The other two give a better radius to flow.

The step on the roof of the chamber is something that was already there. In some places I tried to remove it a litlle bit, but I didn't want to get too close to the seat with the carbide cutter.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 05:42:53 AM
Then why all the lapping?

I will very lightly lap a valve at the end, but that's it.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 09:45:44 AM
Then why all the lapping?

I will very lightly lap a valve at the end, but that's it.

Because I was unsure on how well the valves sealed. In my mind it was better to quickly lap to make sure the surfaces sealed.


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 10:57:20 AM
After the seats are ground and the valves refaced or replaced -- I always fit new exhaust valves -- I use bluing (AKA: Prussian Blue) to check seat contact.  Three dabs around the seat, spin the valve and all is revealed.

I'm old school, so once I'm happy with that, I very lightly do a valve lap at the end.  Most machine shops cringe when I say this and I think they are probably right.  I started with high-speed, valve seat grinders, now they use special cutters, much more precise.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: dakazman on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 11:14:30 AM
   Nice work on the videos, the body is coming along nicely.
The head work was amazing and Can’t wait to see more videos.
Dakazman
 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 11:46:23 AM
After the seats are ground and the valves refaced or replaced -- I always fit new exhaust valves -- I use bluing (AKA: Prussian Blue) to check seat contact.  Three dabs around the seat, spin the valve and all is revealed.

I'm old school, so once I'm happy with that, I very lightly do a valve lap at the end.  Most machine shops cringe when I say this and I think they are probably right.  I started with high-speed, valve seat grinders, now they use special cutters, much more precise.

I don't remember why we had this discussion but back when I was running my Midget racer in the '70s, a machinist I used for the critical stuff like the head, told me that if I was worried about quality of a valve's seal after a quality valve job had been done, to "freshen" the seal with something with very light and fine grit like toothpaste. He wanted to make sure I used the minimum grit possible.

I think your blue technique to determine if there is a problem in the first place is a great practice. if there isn't a problem, don't try to fix it.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Rosco5000 on Wednesday,April 10, 2019, 01:10:35 PM
Serge!  I just saw your Instagram video, I hope the car is alright after its half somersault! 
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Friday,April 12, 2019, 01:47:54 AM
Serge!  I just saw your Instagram video, I hope the car is alright after its half somersault!

Only a small crack where the windshield frame joins the roof, and this needed to be strengthened anyway (per Johns advice). Could have been a lot worse!

Modifying the tip over jig as we speak, don't want that to happen again!

Edit: the jig now works as intended. Will update with video later

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Rosco5000 on Friday,April 12, 2019, 03:21:12 PM
I'm glad you made the jig work, good idea to get to the underside.  Good thing you and the car are mostly in one piece.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Saturday,April 27, 2019, 10:16:03 AM
I decided that I wanted high end shocks, didn't want to go for a 'lesser' damper after spending 8 years and all this money on the Europa. In the end I had Simon at Raceshocks.uk spec me custom Nitron coilovers. Ride frequencies of 1.74 in the front and 1.57 in the rear with a progressive spring in the rear.

All aluminium 40mm body, monotube design, single adjustable. Very high spec! Only downside is price, and that they have to be looked after. Is essentially a race damper, so service intervalls are about every 2 years. But they are built and valved for my specific application.

Details are in the video.

Now let's try to finish the damn car so I can drive it!

https://youtu.be/HUBq9mz61_E


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Saturday,April 27, 2019, 05:38:36 PM
Those are really fancy shocks, Serge! I like the idea of mounting them upside down. Be sure to let us know how they work.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Saturday,April 27, 2019, 09:07:44 PM
How are you going to hook up your front roll bar?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,April 29, 2019, 01:19:35 PM
I have a video coming on the ARB, it will be mounted between the wishbones with a droplink to the lower shock bolt. Very similar like a Lotus formule ford or formule junior.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 02:57:08 AM
I have finally found some time to upload a new video. I have refurbished the lifters and pushrods of the 821 engine to be used again.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pL9gut29N08&feature=youtu.be

Last few months have seen very little Europa progress. Those who follow me on social media may have seen I have moved house and opened my new dental office. I have been working on this for the past three years, so everything happened all at once in the end. I will hopefully get a bit more garage-time in 2020.

Black friday got me an ECU and all the sensors for the EFI system. But the car still needs a little bit of fiberglass work and then paint. In the next few months I will hopefully get all the engine parts machined so I can rebuild the engine.

There is a new Europa book and my dad got me one as a christmas present. In the book is this photograph of an S1 with a 'Europe' badge. So there might have been some S1s with a Europa badge on them?

Happy new year everyone!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 07:24:15 AM
Happy New Year, Serge, and congratulations on your new house and opening your new dental office! It's great to see you posting a new video after your absence.

I was surprised to learn that the lifters are actually flat! That's the only engine I've heard of that actually has flat lifters.

You may have given D'man some ideas. I suspect we'll hear about how he polished the inside of his engine!  :)
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 08:36:10 AM
There is really no need to polish the pushrod shafts.  I just clean them with a wire wheel on a bench grinder and you're good to go.  Polishing looks pretty though.  Polishing wear-surfaces also increases the wear.  Apply polishing sparingly.

As an engine runs, surfaces wear together, smoothing off slight imperfections and form a perfect "union".  Always keep "mated" machined surfaces paired together as it eliminates break-in wear after an overhaul.

I'm very glad you had the lifters checked after your work.  You took a lot of metal off and you didn't use a jig to maintain true.  This is usually ok for small amounts but it is easy to lose true if you take off too much by hand.  The act of pushing across an abrasive surface tends to "tilt" the object resulting in the edges being machined more than the middle.  Light action and constant turning can help but proper machining is better.  In this case the very wide lifter platform also helps keep things true.

Lifters are case-hardened.  The depth of the case hardening has been reduced.  Perhaps such that service life has been reduced.  Myself, I would have had them professionally reground and parkerized.  The cost is in the $20 a lifter range.  Cheap insurance.

I thought the lifters had a very slight arc to the surface to promote rotation.  This matches a slight taper ground to the cam nose (for the same purpose).  Where did you find that they are completely flat?

The grey sections in the middle of the lifter's "shaft" are actually less worn than the polished ends.  The side loading on the lifter weights the two ends most.

Honing with a ball hone can be problematic because the two ends are "machined" less than the middle as the hone spends more time in the middle than the ends.  This results in a barrel shape.  The end machined from also is slightly larger than that other end as it gets a bit more "machining" as the hone is inserted and removed.  Also machining creates microscopic swarf.  You need to thoroughly clean the machined bore before you can evaluate fit.  Better would be to use a proper hone sized to give the correct clearance, or, use a special line hone that maintains a square cut as it is used.

Maintaining the specified clearance is critical.  The lifter bore may be differentially heated due to its proximity to the combustion chambers.  The tightness when the lifters are pushed all the way home concerns me but it may be outside the actual range of travel in service.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 08:41:41 AM
One last thing, steel rulers are not true!  You need a proper surface-ground, straight edge to evaluate a surface for trueness.  No big deal over the short surface you were checking but critical for longer surfaces.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 08:56:34 AM
Lastly, my apologies for being such picky, pain-in-the-posterior.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: dakazman on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 10:41:06 AM
   I had the lifters recut at $8 each and hardness tested. Much cheaper than the 400. Euro for new ones. I’m glad I took JB’s advice, there is supposed to be 1 degree negative as I saw evidence of in Serge’s video.
 Sanding with 320 is very aggressive for that surface and probably now deeply scratched. That’s just my opinion and a visual comparison of the other set of lifters that were recut for my crossflow.

BDA, Okay you got me.
Dakazman

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,January 01, 2020, 11:56:35 AM
I figured since Serge was aware that tappets were usually convex, that he was correct that they were supposed to be flat. Also, they were worn concave and that would seem to bolster his assertion that they are actually supposed to be flat.

Given the high pressures on the cam/tappet face - and the resulting very high hydraulic pressures in any imperfections, I would feel a lot more comfortable having the cam shop re-face the lifters. As JB says, case hardening is very thin and just checking the hardness may not tell the whole story.

I do feel a bit better that he sent the lifters to the same shop that reground the cam so presumably Serge and the cam shop had a good conversation so the cam shop would know what is required.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: lotusfanatic on Thursday,January 02, 2020, 12:48:00 AM
Hello Serge,

which new Europa book do you have?

Mark
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,January 02, 2020, 12:07:31 PM
I'll try to answer everyone below:


The new book is called 'Lotus Europa: Colin Chapman's mid-engined masterpiece' by Matthew Vale.

The Renault engines are made to have parallel cam lobes (not slanted) and flat followers. The lifters are offset to the cam lobes and this will let them rotate. This was confirmed by an engine builder on a renault forum that found NOS lifters. This particular engine builders builds crossflows for long distance road rallies. The followers are case hardened, and were tested by my cam shop, they turned out fine. I was thinking of having them reground by them, but it still was quite expensive (but maybe good insurance) and I like doing things myself. Once the engine has been built, it should be run in quite hard (20min at 4000rpm) and the cam and lifters should work harden.

I'm not a professional in all this, just me doing car things in my free time. If anything goes wrong, at least it's only my fault!

The polishing of the pushrods was to be able to remove the rust. I just went a bit too far with the polishing!

Next few months should see me going to the engine machinist to get the block bored out for the bigger liners. I think the head should be fine to go, but will let them inspect everything. Valerio had it flycut before he sent it to me, but I made some small marks on the surface when I ported the combustion chambers, not sure if this would make a difference in the head gasket sealing.

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Thursday,January 02, 2020, 12:19:01 PM
I appreciate your drive to do things yourself! It shows your adventurousness! We all make mistakes building our cars - I certainly have! - but I think we all are interested in your not making mistakes with something buried so deep as the internals of the engine. I'm happy that you seem to have done your homework.

I look forward to seeing future installments of your build and eventually see a video of you driving off in your baby the first time! Good luck, Serge!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Thursday,January 02, 2020, 01:16:08 PM
Sorry for the rough ride!

Very interesting to hear that the lifters are flat.

Use camshaft/lifter assembly lube on the cam lobes and lifter faces when assembling the engine.  Here's a few examples:

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applications/car-4wd/greases/cam-assembly-lube

https://www.crower.com/camshaft-assembly-lubricant.html

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-153/overview/



Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,January 02, 2020, 01:22:07 PM
I have stocked Joe Gibbs ‘Driven’ assembly grease (high zinc content) and run-in oil. Should give enough protection on startup.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: TurboFource on Friday,January 03, 2020, 05:31:21 AM
Glad to see you posted another video Serge!

If you use a light oil on the sandpaper it will make like a "lapping compound" as the grit comes off the paper,
it also helps keep the paper from loading up with the metal you are removing.

Can't wait to see you get #2 on the road Serge!!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Monday,December 21, 2020, 02:22:46 AM
It's been a while since I posted some progress. Life is getting in the way of getting the car ready.

2019 and 2020 saw a lot of changes in my life, I've built and started a new business, got married and my wife is pregnant of our first child. I have also moved to an apartment without a garage. So I still have to use the small one car garage of old and the basement workshop at my parents' house. This makes working on the bodyshell a bit more difficult.

I have done some work in the last 6 months:
Completed the wiring loom (apart from the ground wiring, that I need to do when everything is in the car)
restored the original seats
rebuilt the original gearbox
rebuilt the doorlocks

I have been slowly working away at the parts that I can finalize without the car being back together. In principle I could assemble the engine, but I don't want to assemble it if it has to sit for two more years. So I have been doing the small stuff and redesigning some of the things that I have been working on in the past.

Things I am working on at the moment:
Prop rods for the bonnet/boot
Cover plates for the bodyshell (trunk/front/speaker hole)
Rainlight/fog light bracket
Front spotlight stays
Harness bar
Engine (Camshaft) trigger wheel and sensor

Some upgrades coming:
Disc brake conversions front and rear (Wilwood calipers)
Aluminium front hubs
Lightweight wheels


I haven't been able to do any work to the bodyshell, because I had to do an engine change in my 987 Cayman and that took most of the summer, and now it's gotten too cold for fiberglassing.

The bodyshell is the main bit that still needs to be finished, before I can put the car back together. It needs the last bit of fiberglass work and then paint.

I uploaded a new video yesterday, on designing and building the roll cage. You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/39CdMOhttyM


Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: TurboFource on Monday,December 21, 2020, 03:19:04 AM
Serge,
Congratulations on the marriage, the pregnancy and new business!

Great to see you are still working on the car! I have watched all your videos and your perseverance is inspirational!

I can hardly wait to see the finished car!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Monday,December 21, 2020, 06:33:20 AM
Great to have you back after so long! And with such good news! Congratulations on your business, your marriage, and your first child! I’ll drink to all of them!  :beerchug:

I’m also glad with all that going on in your life, your making progress on your car. I can’t wait to see the finished product either!

Anxiously awaiting your next installment!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Bainford on Monday,December 21, 2020, 08:43:24 AM
Congrats on all of the good news.  :beerchug: Many changes, busy life, wishing you the best in all of your endeavors.

I'm looking forward to your brake upgrades with Wilwood calipers. Are you running 13" wheels?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Lou Drozdowski on Monday,December 21, 2020, 03:16:06 PM
Serge,

 The wife and I enjoyed your cage video over supper, glad you are back working on the project. Can't wait for the next installment.

I wish you all the best for 2021 & congratulations!... Health and happiness...ld     

Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Dilkris on Monday,December 21, 2020, 11:56:01 PM
 :I-agree: All the comments so far made following your "return" - Good to have you back. Chris
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Sunday,January 17, 2021, 09:58:57 AM
I uploaded another video. I converted my Smiths RVI tachometer with a Spyida conversion board, so that I could use the Tacho-output signal from my ECU to run the original instrument. This way I can get modern driveability without losing the original charm of the 1960s dashboard.

https://youtu.be/oX-3TUubU_Q

Enjoy!

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Sunday,January 17, 2021, 10:41:31 AM
Great video, Serge! I would never have guessed that that sort of kit was available! Good job!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,July 07, 2021, 12:05:01 PM
For the front end of the car I am replacing the standard brake setup with a Wilwood Powerlite 265mm (solid, non vented) kit from Rallydesign in the UK. (I purposely chose the non-vented setup, even though they have a vented setup available. This mainly because of the low weight of my S1 (+/-600kg) it won't need the vented setup. The Caterham guys race their cars all day long with a non-vented setup and have no issues. The weight saving from the solid rotors should help the rest.)

The rear drum brakes will be converted to a similar Wilwood setup. I have designed a kit for 240mm discs with a mechanical parking brake and a 260mm kit without a parking brake mechanism. Still debating on what I will run, all will depend on how well the P-brake setup works. I suspect it will be similar to the original P-brake, meaning quite marginal, maybe a bit better.

If you want to follow along, check out the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GTRkAG9wcGQ


Enjoy,

Serge
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Chuck Nukem on Wednesday,July 07, 2021, 12:35:20 PM
Great job Serge!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: BDA on Wednesday,July 07, 2021, 12:49:24 PM
 :I-agree: I hope you sell all your kits!
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,July 07, 2021, 01:33:17 PM
Nice work Serge, as always.

Still looking for the Holy Grail, a rear disc kit that works with the stock steel wheels!  The Revolution wheels are nice though.
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Wednesday,July 07, 2021, 01:41:15 PM
Nice work Serge, as always.

Still looking for the Holy Grail, a rear disc kit that works with the stock steel wheels!  The Revolution wheels are nice though.

Image wheels in the UK now sell a CNC 3 piece aluminium wheel with the original Lotus design. I suspect the inner diameter will be large enough to fit most disc kits. This will offer original looks with modern functionality.

https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/elan-billet-alloy-wheel/
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: jbcollier on Wednesday,July 07, 2021, 03:30:38 PM
Ok, you'll laugh, but they don't have the nubs for the hub caps.  I have thought of asking if they could fit them...
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: Serge on Thursday,July 08, 2021, 12:31:01 PM
Ok, you'll laugh, but they don't have the nubs for the hub caps.  I have thought of asking if they could fit them...

You are correct, hadn't noticed! Maybe, drill & tap to screw some posts in?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: GavinT on Thursday,July 08, 2021, 01:30:12 PM

Image wheels in the UK now sell a CNC 3 piece aluminium wheel with the original Lotus design. I suspect the inner diameter will be large enough to fit most disc kits. This will offer original looks with modern functionality.

https://www.imagewheels.co.uk/elan-billet-alloy-wheel/

The link takes us to the knock-on version which is OK if you have an Elan so equipped.
Are they available in a bolt-on version?
Title: Re: #460002 - Restoration
Post by: EuropaTC on Thursday,July 08, 2021, 01:44:39 PM
The page says "any PCD" which infers they do a bolt on version as well as the k/o wheel. If so then I'd expect the bolt on version to have a totally different centre and probably it would have the hub cap studs as well.

This comparison is from the Elan manual and it's hard to see how they'd get a 3.75" PCD studs/nuts in the valley of the k/o wheel - Lotus didn't manage to !

Brian