Dip Stick issues - no markings!

[Europa73]

Hi all,

I am getting ready to start the Europa Eg. change oil.

On inspecting the dip stick I see there are no markings on this at all - and though it clips nicely onto the dip stick tube - it does not look original.

See attached pics.

Would anyone know the exact distance of where the markings should be on the dip stick?

I can then make the appropriate markings.

A dipstick without markings - that was a new one to me 

[jbcollier]

Go to the factory manual for fill specs.  Change the engine oil and filter.  Pour the specified amount of oil in and start the engine until you get good oil pressure.  Let it sit 5 minutes, check the oil level and mark the dip stick to suit.

[Europa73]

Many thanks jbcollier,

Found the information and specifications.

Question for you - any recommendation on oil - the manual states Castrol GTX -


Thanks,

[4129R]

GTX is a 20/50 normal mineral oil. Obviously nothing synthetic back in 1973/4.

[BDA]

I don't know the specifics Castrol GTX now a days. I would only say to pay attention whether your oil is appropriate for "flat tappet" motors. The thing to look for is the amount of zinc (ZDDP). A lot of eople have found out the hard way how quickly "modern" oils will ruin your cams. If you google "oil flat tappet motor" (without the quotes), you'll find a lot of information and discussion about it. Personally, I use Red Line 10W40. I know a lot of guys in the MG club of which I'm a member swear by Miller oils (r.d. sells it). I've heard a lot of people like Shell Rotella. There are lots of good options. Castrol GTX may be one of them, but you have to know what you're getting. It's not just a matter of quality, it's a matter of formulation.


 

[jbcollier]

I do not want to start an oil thread as opinions vary widely and are fiercely held.  Myself, I do use oils meant for older vehicles which have more additives than some current oils.  Your handle is Europa 73 so you most likely are running a TC.  TC engines have recessed tappets which run partly submerged in oil so you won't have the cam/tappet wear issues that some vintage engines with drip/mist feed to the cam/tappet area have had.  You should be able to run any good quality 20/50 oil with no problem.

That all said, any oil is better than no oil.  Once had a customer with a bit of an oil leak.  He was running Esso 20/50 HDX and the station he stopped at only had Esso 20/50 HD.  So he decided to wait until the next fuel stop.  Wasn't the best decision he ever made.

[Europa73]

Thanks for the additional information - much appreciated

Yep - running a TCS - well - hopefully next week :-)


Cheers,

[BDA]

Excellent points, John! I hadn't considered the design differences between the TC head and push rod motors (which is what you'll read about when you hear about the need for zinc which is not surprising since the vast majority of flat tappet motors are push rod motors and thus the type of motors that are featured in the sad stories I've heard) and I agree that difference is very significant. I always appreciate your educating me!


 I think I'll stick with my Red Line oil, though - belts and suspenders and all that.

[Europa73]

One more question -

As the car has been standing for some time - would it also benefit from an engine flush before the new oil?

Cheers,

[jbcollier]

Don't use "engine flush" products.  They usually have the addition of solvents to "clean" the engine.  So they loosen things up which go into the oil pan and are sucked up by the oil pump.  In addition to running a whole bunch of crap through your oil pump, it can quickly plug your oil filter which then bypasses and all that crap is now going through your bearings!

Engine deposits are called engine deposits because crap has been deposited in the various nooks and crannies of your engine.  It's not doing any harm so leave it alone.  The only time you clean out engine deposits is when you overhaul the engine.

[jbcollier]

If the engine hasn't run for a LONG while, run it up with fresh oil and a new oil filter.  Get it up to temp and then change the oil and filter again.  After that, you should be fine.

[Europa73]

Many thanks for the information.

Cheers,

[2483R]

As your handle is Europa73 I assume the engine is a TC, as you didn’t say.

The dipstick is certainly not original. Original dipsticks were painted white on the handle, and there was no oil seal.

The oil level reading was actually controlled by the height of the dipstick tube. The tube was pressed into the timing chain housing, changing the depth of the press would change the reading.

If you don’t have the factory dipstick, do you have the factory tube?

My own car was reading full but was really 1.5 quarts low when I first bought it many years ago. I have heard others complain of inaccurate oil level readings as well, so I believe it to be a common problem.

Follow what others have said above and add oil to engine and mark your dipstick. Be sure to account for the oil in the filter.

[4129R]

Anyone know from a dry engine and filter start, how much oil to put in to establish the correct level starting point?

As they notoriously burn and leak oil ("wouldn't be a Lotus if it didn't"), establishing the correct starting point is critical, and having spent a lot of time rebuilding 5 engines, I would like the right starting place.

http://www.automobile-catalog.com/oil_coolant_capacity/1971/1433105/lotus_europa_twin_cam.html

4.3 litres, or 4.5 US quarts, or 3.8 imp quarts = 7.6 pints seems to be the answer, but is that with or without the oil filter, and presumably the standard oil filter holds around 450cc or .45 litres, or around a pint UK.

[jbcollier]

The manual says 4.0 litres including the oil filter.