Lotus Europa Community
Lotus Europa Forums => The Paddock => Topic started by: Mecky on Tuesday,November 12, 2013, 09:17:40 AM
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Hi guys,
there seems to come up a small group of Europa drivers in this forum, who uses these little cars for racing. And it does not matter whether it is autocross, hillclimb, rallye or circuit and also if more modern changes are allowed or the car has to be prepared in accordance with a historic reglement...
This is a try to create a kind of archive here, where these Europa drivers have the chance to show their cars and modifications in detail and tell about the technical data. Whereas the thread "Experieces in Racing an Europa" is more about telling stories of races, which were entered, and results and knowledge, which was achieved while racing.
To start it up, I will give a short conclusion of our Lotus Europa S2 Type 54, which is prepared in accordance with FIA Appendix K and raced in the Two-Seater Racing Car class up to 2000 ccm displacement.
Displacement: 1565 ccm
Power: 158 HP / 117 kW
Torque: 181 Nm / 134 lbf ft
Weight: 669 kg / 1475 lbs
Height: 7 cm / 2,76 in
Tank Capicity: 80 litres
0 - 100 km/h / 0 - 62 mp/h: 4,8 s
Max. Speed: 230 km/h / 144 mp/h
Rims: front: 8x13", rear: 9x13"
Tyres: front: 215/50/13, rear: 235/45/13; Kumho Semislicks
Brakes: front: disc, rear: drum
Modifications:
- Aluminium air deflector leading to the radiator
- air-hoses for front brake cooling
- completely removeable front bonnet
- two circle braking system with steel-flex brake lines and adjustable brake balance between front and rear
- master cylinders: front: 0,7", rear: 0,625"
- heater removed
- whole interiour removed except the dashboard
- passenger seat replaced by a go-kart-seat
- racing driver seat
- roll cage
- fire extinguisher
- emergency stop switch (can be operated from outside the car)
- two 45 Weber DCOE twin-carburettors
- lexan door- and rear-windows
- fan-type exhaust manifold
- Renault 807 engine with crossflow-head
- racing rods and pistons
- lighter crank shaft
- racing cam shaft
- sport clutch
- two aluminium fuel tanks
- three fuel pumps
- fuel pressure regulator
- fuel catch-tank (1 litre)
- oil catch-tank (1 litre)
- removed rear boot
- racing shocks and springs
I think that's about it. I hope you like the idea of this thread and take part.
Best regards
Stefan
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Hi Mecky
:newhere: (many thanks stefan)
this is mine
of course, FIA Appendix "K" and road legal for saison 2014 :FUNNY:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cgp7oo30Vds/UoEYbKhZYUI/AAAAAAAAAJc/n7T5XbLf-0A/s800/Foto%2520%25282%2529.JPG?gl=DE)
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Hey Mecky,
your data is impressive!
this shows that if Jean Redele hadn't stopped Renault from supplying (updated) engines back then it wouldn't be a fuss aganist Apline.
:BBQ:
Hey Mr. Schmidt, bon courage!!
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Hello Mecky
Great topic.
Could you please give us some more details regarding your suspension, like spring rates and length and also your dampers make and model?
/Jannik
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Hello Mecky
Great topic.
Could you please give us some more details regarding your suspension, like spring rates and length and also your dampers make and model?
/Jannik
Hi Jannik,
I'll try to look it up at the next weekend.
Best regards
Stefan
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Hi Jannik,
the shocks are made by Protech (400 series, 2,25id). The length is 11" (front) and 16,5" (rear). Spring rates: 225 lbs/in (front) and 250 lbs/in (rear).
Best regards
Stefan
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Hi Jannik,
the shocks are made by Protech (400 series, 2,25id). The length is 11" (front) and 16,5" (rear). Spring rates: 225 lbs/in (front) and 250 lbs/in (rear).
Best regards
Stefan
Stefan,
Do those springrates feel OK on track? Because that's not a "normal" setup for a europa. I would guess that a good starting point would be 240/190 F/R, maybe a bit stiffer in the rear if you have bigger tyres on the rear like you. But it would be more logical to have a higher spring rate in the front than in the rear. Have you done much testing with different spring rates?
Kind regards,
Serge
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Serge,
the rates feel very good. We had softer ones until 2012, but there was so much body roll while cornering. Now it is much better. But we did not test any other rates.
Why is it not normal? In stock the Europa has softer springs in front than rear. The front is much lighter, so why should you choose stiffer springs in front? With very stiff springs in front, the nose will not go down so far while braking. But you need the weight transfer to the front, so that the front breaks will not block so early. Especially in wet conditions this is very very important.
Best regards
Stefan
P.S.: The first picture is from 2011 and the second one from 2012 with new suspension. Same track, same corner.
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Hi folks,
Ok, I'm not a race guy (and never likely to be) but I am interested in this debate as I'm trying to work out what to do with my car for next summer as far as springs & dampers are concerned.
Stefan, the standard springs (TC) are stronger at the front, 116lbs/ins & 75lbs at the rear, but of course there's more suspension leverage at the front so the effective rate drops.
Most of the info I've gathered point to stiffer front springs than rear although your reasoning seems very logical and is consistent with the TC Race Preparation booklet from Colin Ham, who used 180lbs front & 200lbs rear. It's also consistent with the Elise (my S1 has 240lbs front, 280lbs rear IIRC) although I must admit I haven't worked out the changes due to geometry on that car. But it's possibly even lighter at the front than the Europa at 40/60 distribution and similar road weights.
As a rookie at this aspect of the car I do find the game confusing, hence I appreciate you guys sharing such info.
Brian
ps - Stefan, did you stay with 2.25" spring diameters for both front & rear ? I find the smaller 1.9" springs a real nuisance to compress but the slightly larger ones fit my tools much better and would prefer to use them all round if possible.
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Original spring rates for an S2 are:
100 lbs.in. (1.15 kg.m.) in the front
72 lbs.in. (.83 kg.m.) in the rear
and most of the europa people (including Jay Mitchell who has autocrossed his car extensively and has tested a lot of springs) are keeping this F/R ratio in the spring rates.
However I do understand the logic behind your choice. I would like to know what Valerio is running as wel, just to compare notes.
Kind regards,
Serge
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Hi Brian,
Stefan, the standard springs (TC) are stronger at the front, 116lbs/ins & 75lbs at the rear, but of course there's more suspension leverage at the front so the effective rate drops.
That surprises me.
ps - Stefan, did you stay with 2.25" spring diameters for both front & rear ? I find the smaller 1.9" springs a real nuisance to compress but the slightly larger ones fit my tools much better and would prefer to use them all round if possible.
Yes, 2,25 all around.
Best regards
Stefan
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Thanks Stefan, although it's one of those silly things I feel happier working with slightly larger diameter springs providing there's no significant trade-off in performance. I've also looked at the pro-tech site and SJS, their UK supplier and they look well made units.
The OEM spring rates always puzzled me as the first impression seemed to be the wrong way about. But I used some formula from Alan Staniforth's book on suspension (dated now but from the era of these cars) and weighing what I could then making some assumptions for what I couldn't, I found that the spring pre-loads after allowing for suspension leverages came in at 427F, 417R. Of course that can be well out with the guesswork, but it did slow me down a bit as the maths indicate it balances well.
I've read a lot of Jay Mitchell's postings and there's no doubt he is good at the game. Personally I like the way he goes about it. But regarding his choice of spring rates you've got to remember that he's specifically aiming at autocross and using the OEM suspension layouts. I suspect once you change the physical suspension design/dimensions as you've done, all bets are off as to what previous recommendations will work and the best way forwards is practical experience (and lap times ;) )
I'm currently going through the knowledgebase and sifting out various combinations that have been discussed. If there's any interest I'll post the results here when I think I've got it all down.
Brian
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Brian,
I am very interested in spring rates, so please do post what you learn.
In my Zetec S2 I started with Dave Bean's recommendation of front 2"x10x110 with 2" x 13.5 x 115 on the rears. All are on adjustable AVOs. The front setup far too light and would not keep the car off the bump stops.
Replaced the fronts with 2"x 10 x160... With this set I was unable to lower the front to a non Federal height, so I ordered 2" x 9 x 160, but as you can imagine the same spring force with a lower height softened the front too much and I would bottom on road imperfections. With a passenger it was frequent.
This led me to my current setup which is still not ideal. I cut the 2"x 10 x160 to 8" effectively raising the spring rate by 20% to 192. it is better. I fell that I can go even higher. Perhaps to 220 without any drawbacks. With no changes to my rear setup you can see that I am radically out of balance 192 front/115 rear.
I have a new larger front sway bar to install and I would like to get my springs sorted this winter, so I'll be watching this thread with interest!
Thanks. Great thread.
Dean
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I'm currently going through the knowledgebase and sifting out various combinations that have been discussed. If there's any interest I'll post the results here when I think I've got it all down.
Brian
I'm very interested in hearing what you've learned regarding spring rates. My car is still wearing its original springs and dampers so thoughts of replacing these are on my mind. I haven't looked too deep into this yet but it's quite high on my 'must do' list of Europa improvements. Cheers
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I'll be happy to post up what I find as long as you guys remember I really don't know enough about this aspect of our cars, this will just be data for interpretation & background. I'll try to collate it for the weekend.
One thing that does stick out though is a phrase from one of Jay Mitchell's posts - "getting recommendations is easy, getting ones that work less so" (or something like that). There's a whole range from the standard 100/116 of the S2/TC to 750lbs/ins for a track car. I can't even imagine what that's like on the roads !
Brian
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I have a load of text documents where I store every interesting thing I find in the knowledgebase about springs, engine, gearbox etc.
The GGLC has done similar things and you can find a bit of info on spring rates, with excellent explanation by Jay, right here:
http://gglotus.org/ggtech/europa-techinfo/lotuscht.htm#_Toc462883582
Kind regards,
Serge
http://sleurs-motorsport.com/
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Good idea Serge, next time I'm in Belgium I'll have to come and visit you, we have an office in Waterloo and I am over a few times per year.
Much of my car is still a voyage of discovery, so I will have to edit this as I work it out :)
1969 Lotus Europa S2 Type 54, road registered and competition use limited to short course hillclimbs and spints.
Being kept to a specification that is 'period' but not strictly conforming to the local Group S (Production Sports) category which means running with more highly modified or modern vehicles generally.
Displacement: 1596cc
Power: TBC built towards 160hp Gordini spec.
Torque: TBC
Weight: Not yet weighed, but is carrying full road equipment so probably heavy.
Height: approximately 8.5cm clearance
Tank Capacity: 27 litres
0 - 100 km/h / 0 - 62 mp/h: 6.62seconds (on previous engine)
Standing ¼ mile: 14.67seconds @ 150kph (on previous engine)
Max. Speed: North of 200kph
Rims: Minilite, front: 5.5x13", rear: 5.5x13"
Tyres: front: 185/60/13, rear: 185/60/13; Toyo Proxes R888
Brakes: front: disc, rear: disc
Modifications:
- aluminium radiator (competition spec)
- aluminium air ducting to the radiator
- rear disc conversion (Europa Engineering) with functional parking brake
- dual master cylinder brake system and dash adjustable brake balance
- master cylinders size: front: TBC, rear: TBC
- heater works.... probably too well, this is Australia, shut-off valve in engine bay
- interior trimmed in leather including dashboard
- OMP steering wheel
- drivers seat lowered and fixed in position
- 6 point harness
- roll over bar
- fire extinguisher
- battery isolator
- lightweight battery
- two 45 Weber DCOE twin-carburetors
- Europa Engineering exhaust headers, stainless steel muffler
- Renault 807 engine with crossflow-head
- Mecapart forged H beam type rods.
- Mecapart forged pistons (77.8mm).
- 43mm inlet valves
- 37mm exhaust valves
- 324deg camshaft
- oil catch-tank
- 5 speed gearbox (NG3) with LSD
- spare wheel carried in engine bay (rear boot removed)
- AVO adjustable dampers front and rear
- adjustable spring heights
- rose-jointed suspension
- braced suspension arms
- front stub axles upgraded to larger GT6 version
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Hi Stephen,
your displacement should be exactly 1589,105 cc (:D) with your bore and the standard stroke. I'm looking forward to hearing about the effect of your front axle GT6 upgrade.
Best regards
Stefan
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[/img] :newhere: Hi guys, here's my 72 TC prepared for racing in the HSCC 70's Roadsports here in the UK. So I don't know if I am welcome in a Renault engine forum?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/IMG_2824_zps123e5672.jpg)
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:Welcome:
I don't think we've fragmented ourselves between the S2s and the twinks yet. This is a forum for all Europas. More pictures and details on the race car please.
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Ok, please remember that this is an HSCC production racer and there is a strict limit to modifications, the work was all done by Dan Eagling at Lifetime Racing here in the UK.
The car has had a complete nut and bolt rebuild, the gearbox was 4 speed has now been replaced by a 5 speed NG3 unit (which sounds great until you see the ratios) the engine has been prepared with torque in mind and produces 155 bhp with the regulation 33mm chokes. We are allowed to go up to 5 1/2J wide wheels. Although we did not try to save weight it has come out underweight (for my championship) at 667 Kgs (1470 ibs) so we have to carry ballast.
So here is the chassis which is a standard Lotus chassis, the galvanisation has been blasted off and it was powder coated:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/photo7_zpsa1c53c8a.jpg)
The body was cleaned up and surprisingly polished up well, so well we decided to leave it in it's original state, OK there are a few cracks and chips but scrubbed up well considering it has been in my garden under a tarpaulin for a few years, incidentally during the process of putting it on a trailer a Dorset mouse ran out, there were three nests discovered during the rebuild:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/europabody_zps998711fb.jpg)
More pictures to come later......................
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Hi Andy, :Welcome:
All I can say is that if that's the original paintwork then it's amazing, I'd assumed it was a fresh respray going on the first shot you posted. I'm purely a road-going, non-racing owner but I'm always interested to find out what sort of improvements you guys do to improve the cars, so you've got a ready-made audience for whatever you can post up.
Brian
Edit to add: I've just looked up the HSCC website over here and boy, have I been missing out.... for any other fan of 60s & 70s sports cars in the UK who has also let this pass them by, then go check out the series website. Here's a starter....
http://www.hscc.org.uk/images/70sNewsletter_October_14.pdf (http://www.hscc.org.uk/images/70sNewsletter_October_14.pdf)
(page 6 has an interesting picture... well done Andy)
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Thank you Brian, I had not seen that Newletter! There is also the 1st race I did at Brands Indy in Sept taken from a fellow competitors car, you may notice the fluffed gear-change at the start from 2nd to 3rd (give me a gear any bloody gear will do!), then my overtake at Paddock the next lap followed by an underpant-changing moment :0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay43N9M9tHc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay43N9M9tHc)
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OK the paintwork is good but not immaculate, it was good enough for a race car however.
Here is the new alloy rad:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/rad_zps1b6d1742.jpg)
This was the new peddle box:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/pedalbox_zps47d69369.jpg)
Please note this is all taken at Lifetimes Racing workshop, I just provided the money :0)
Ongoing work on the dash:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/photo_zps59fb95e7.jpg)
Please note all this work was done at Lifetime Racing's workshop, I just provided the money :0)
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Great video, Andy!! I think you were doing pretty well to keep that Ferrari in sight for as long as you did. What was that red light on the left of your dash for?
Your car looks like it's going to be very nice. The pedals are interesting. Usually I see them mounted on top of the cross and in the front trunk.
I'd love to see more pictures as work progresses!
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BDA, sorry the video was from another competitor behind me, if you look at the start I was the white car further ahead on the RHS. The one with a gearbox full of neutrals at the start!
This was later in the race, you can see the car is actually finished and I am drip feeding the pictures:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/druidssept14_zps1faf974d.jpg)
Regards Andy
PS the Ferrari was toast (for me) I was surprised how fast the Europa was in a straight line, I finally retook the Porsche 911 before the end and in a straight line out of clearways it could outdrag the Porsche down the pit straight
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Geesh! I need to learn to read. You said that! Sorry. :( Passing a 911 on the straight says a lot for your car!.
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BDA, the secret is in the weight (or power to weight along with a little aero help)?
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Blimey, you were lucky to get away with that moment at Paddock Hill bend at the start of lap 2.
As you say, she is quick down the Brabham start finish straight.
The 308 takes a lousy racing line into Druids leaving the door wide open.
Please stick a Go Pro in yours so we can see you playing.
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Certainly the weight helps. I think larger engines generally end up being faster. I've never raced or auto crossed my car but I would expect the Europa's biggest advantage would be in the corners and shorter braking distances. As I say, it seems like yours is pretty strong. :beerchug:
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Andy. The car looks fantastic. I'm trying to do the same type of pedal box in my 67 S2. Do you have any more info on that set up. Model and manufacturer? How did you reinforce the attachment points? Thanks tom
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Hi Andy,
your car looks really beautiful. I like the way it is modified. You are strongly restricted by the rules, but on the other hand you have real racing upgrades like hanging pedals with balance bar and a hydraulic clutch. The radiator looks great, as well. We would like to see some photos of your engine bay, as well.
Are you allowed to use anything other than the stock brakes? If not, I would like to know, how your brake feels during races and how you chose the master cylindres. My car has very similar data (158 HP, 670 kg) and it was lots of try and error until the brake worked well for the first time. At the begining, we used the stock one-circle brake with booster, but it was rediculously bad. After that, we installed a Porsche 911 tandem master cylindre, because my Dad raced a 911 before and the braking of this car is really great. But this did not work out well with the tiny discs and drums of a Europa. With 0,7" at front and 0,625" at the rear circle the brake began to work well, but you have to push the pedal sooooo hard. After that we changed the front master cylinder to 0,625", which made the pedal "softer", but destroyed the whole balance, as you can see on the attached pictures.
For the next season we are going to keep the front cylindre, but take a smaller one for the rear brakes, as well. AP-racing makes master cylindres down to 0,55". The result should be an equal balance as before, but with a pedal, which can be used without brute force.
Your regulations seem to be even more restrictive than mine, but I am still not allowed to use rear brake discs or wider discs at front. With the braking assembly of a Type 47, it would work out much better, but the FIA says no.
@BDA: The Europa's advantage is certainly a higher cornering speed, but the braking distance is despite the relatively low weight not as great as you would imagine.
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Blimey, you were lucky to get away with that moment at Paddock Hill bend at the start of lap 2.
As you say, she is quick down the Brabham start finish straight.
The 308 takes a lousy racing line into Druids leaving the door wide open.
Please stick a Go Pro in yours so we can see you playing.
Yes 4129R it was good thing I had a spare pair of underpants on me, I normally drive a Clubman's car which has 8" front and 10" rears so Paddock is almost flat, so I was trying to calibrate my grip, although I am wondering if the Yokohama 008's have a sharp breakaway characteristics? BTW we have to use road legal tyres and the car has an MOT and taxed.
Yes the Ferrari did not want to get down and dirty, I don't blame him.
Go Pro's we have had a lot of problems with them turning off mid race, I now have a VBOX which is a combined datalogger and 2 camera system (I would highly recommend them). However this was my 1st race in the Europa and we had booked testing on the Friday, the 1st 3 sessions the car got as far as the 3rd bend and stopped, we discovered a problem with the distributor, so I only had 30 mins of driving before the raceday and putting the Vbox on the Europa fell off the list :0(
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Certainly the weight helps. I think larger engines generally end up being faster. I've never raced or auto crossed my car but I would expect the Europa's biggest advantage would be in the corners and shorter braking distances. As I say, it seems like yours is pretty strong. :beerchug:
BDA it's a mixture of power to weight/frontal area/grip/balance large engines don't by themselves seem to work that well on a racetrack, we had TVR's and Datsun 260Z and it's capable of beating them.
Unfortunately the brakes are hopeless at the moment, we have to use standard brakes and we have a lot of work to do in that area.
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Andy. The car looks fantastic. I'm trying to do the same type of pedal box in my 67 S2. Do you have any more info on that set up. Model and manufacturer? How did you reinforce the attachment points? Thanks tom
Tom I will look up the OBP model number for you and when it stops raining here I can take some more pictures.
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Hi Andy,
your car looks really beautiful. I like the way it is modified. You are strongly restricted by the rules, but on the other hand you have real racing upgrades like hanging pedals with balance bar and a hydraulic clutch. The radiator looks great, as well. We would like to see some photos of your engine bay, as well.
Are you allowed to use anything other than the stock brakes? If not, I would like to know, how your brake feels during races and how you chose the master cylindres. My car has very similar data (158 HP, 670 kg) and it was lots of try and error until the brake worked well for the first time. At the begining, we used the stock one-circle brake with booster, but it was rediculously bad. After that, we installed a Porsche 911 tandem master cylindre, because my Dad raced a 911 before and the braking of this car is really great. But this did not work out well with the tiny discs and drums of a Europa. With 0,7" at front and 0,625" at the rear circle the brake began to work well, but you have to push the pedal sooooo hard. After that we changed the front master cylinder to 0,625", which made the pedal "softer", but destroyed the whole balance, as you can see on the attached pictures.
For the next season we are going to keep the front cylindre, but take a smaller one for the rear brakes, as well. AP-racing makes master cylindres down to 0,55". The result should be an equal balance as before, but with a pedal, which can be used without brute force.
Your regulations seem to be even more restrictive than mine, but I am still not allowed to use rear brake discs or wider discs at front. With the braking assembly of a Type 47, it would work out much better, but the FIA says no.
@BDA: The Europa's advantage is certainly a higher cornering speed, but the braking distance is despite the relatively low weight not as great as you would imagine.
Yes you are correct there are quite strong rules on how far you can go, plus 33mm choke restriction, the NG3 gearbox has hopeless ratios that I am not allowed to change. I mean Brands Hatch was 4th round Paddock, 3rd Round druids, 3rd round Graham Hill, 4th round Surtees and 3rd around clearways. Did the whole race in 3rd and 4th, that was until I had a misfire 15 mins into the race at 6500 so it was 5th on the straights, I think this was due to heat build-up in the engine compartment so we need to add a grill at the back.
The brakes are standard and had I am not overloaded with family issues at the moment we would be testing before winter to try and improve them. The rear drums are the smaller TC drums not the special drums, however Dan Eagling (Lifetime Racing) has told me that the rears are not working enough, we now need to try some of Richard Winters expensive but good front pads.
More pictures on the next posting........................
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OK a request for the engine department:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/LE3_zps78a00698.jpg)
This is the original engine which was tuned up by a local tuner who normally tunes stock cars, it spent 1 1/2hrs on the dyno as there were a few problems, it still retains the std crank.
Lifetime racing turned up a smaller diameter alternator pulley and we "piped" in an oil cooler, carbs were the existing Dellorto's.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/enginecomp_zps6c73a650.jpg)
The exhaust was from Banks Europa, however we didn't want to poke it out the back like a 47 so we modified it to exit in the standard place.
I must say I am pleasantly surprised by the engine, it's very torquey and suits the wide spread of gearbox ratios.
Now let's get onto the bad news:-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/frontsusp_zps8d9e6bad.jpg)
Standard fronts with race pads, no brake feel and awesomely bad retardation, so bad I was arching my back to stop at Graham Hill Bend!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v616/andyl999/motor%20racing/Lotus%20Europa%20TC/rearsusp_zpsb15f2c47.jpg)
Standard TC with race linings, we could upgrade to the wider TC Special brakes but it's not worth it yet. I am also using the single adjustable AVO shock absorbers, they seem to work well and it's a good place to start without to much brain wringing when it comes to adjustment.
Overall you must remember I normally drive a formula car with slicks and wings, I have had only one practice , one qualifying and one race, However I am impressed with the Europa as a race/roadcar, now we need to work on the brakes and tyres and oh I also need to loose 10Kg :0)
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I have just taken the drums off my TCS so if you want wider drums, I am in Norfolk.
Alex.
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Hello Stefan,
Yr S2 changed m'y opinion on thé non TC Europa. I didn t like thé rear high wings but yr car looks nice ans for sure is Weil préparer for racing. Who dix thé body work with thé flared fenders? What are thé suspension adjustments ,castor,camber,toe in..... ? Thks Roland
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The new flares are the rear flares of a Ford Escort Mk1. We did the main job on our own and the painter did the refinement.
The suspension set up is mainly like in the Jensen competition manual. It works out brilliantly. https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjI6tKjuIPOAhVMDZoKHd5gDX8QFggeMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lotus-europa.com%2Fmanuals%2Fmisc%2Fjensen.pdf&usg=AFQjCNF8SJinkU41Dm1OI1L4lurSkHuD_w (https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjI6tKjuIPOAhVMDZoKHd5gDX8QFggeMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lotus-europa.com%2Fmanuals%2Fmisc%2Fjensen.pdf&usg=AFQjCNF8SJinkU41Dm1OI1L4lurSkHuD_w)
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Your car keeps getting better and better! Good luck on the track!
:lotus:
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I have no idea what your vintage restrictions are, but I found use of a 47 style snorkel with Weber airbox very beneficial for hp increase.
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I found use of a 47 style snorkel with Weber airbox very beneficial for hp increase.
I'm not interested in the vertical snorkel so much, but interested in how your airbox arrangement might be constructed.
On my S2 I have only a single fuel tank and think building an airbox into the R/H buttress with a NACA style duct might be worthwhile.
Any pictures?
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Attached are pictures of the airboxes for my Zetec twin Weber engine. Box with foam on top meets the snorkel on the deck lid. Box with a horizontal tube inlet is similar to what you suggested. After my original black S1 photo in previous post I added 47 style side NACA ducts and repainted the car. NACA ducts didn't work nearly as well. In fact NACA ducting was inferior to no airbox at all with just sock filters on airhorns. Power loss was very obvious especially above 5000rpm. If you read Carroll Smith's book 'Tune to Win' he details limitations of NACA ducts especially if they are further back on car body. Airflow pulls away from the body farther back you go. Snorkels look strange, but are the most effective in ram air for the carbs.
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Thanks, might have to throw some pitot tubes around the car and find some high pressure points.
One for an airbox and one for the oil cooler.
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New Look
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New Engine
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A lot of fun.
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She's a beauty, Valerio!
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Love the new look. Beautiful!
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stunning!
8)
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Looks awesome! What size/brand are wheels and tires? They look great too!
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Revolution wheels:
106mm backspace
3.75 PDC
6X13 front
7X13 Rear
Dunlop Racing Tires:
4.50 M13 front
5.25 M13 rear
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Valerio...Che Bella!
The new look looks great, the old style was just as good too!
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New Look
Hi Valerio,
Did you fit a new lighter bonnet or what's the reason for this look? I love your beautiful car :coolpic:
I also fitted a new front bonnet for my cooling upgrade and a little TC spoiler. Hope to be back on track in October. But I'm still waiting for engine parts from France :headbanger:
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That's looking great Mecky! Good luck with your engine parts!
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:trophy: That is as nice as it gets.
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How big is the trailer you have your car on? Will a Europa fit on a 6' x 12' utility trailer?
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New Look
Hi Valerio,
Did you fit a new lighter bonnet or what's the reason for this look? I love your beautiful car :coolpic:
I also fitted a new front bonnet for my cooling upgrade and a little TC spoiler. Hope to be back on track in October. But I'm still waiting for engine parts from France :headbanger:
Thanks Mecky!
the bonnet is just wrapped with matt black vinyl.
The look is now more 1970- tour de France- wannabe. As GTS is more aligned to the period.
When I will turn into TSRC then I will come back to a more Sixties look.
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I solved all the trouble related to the overheating keeping the radiator in the same position.
I have done a kind of airbox behind the radiator and using a fan that pull the air from behind.
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Would love to see photos of the rad airbox, please!
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:coolpic:
I solved all the trouble related to the overheating keeping the radiator in the same position.
I have done a kind of airbox behind the radiator and using a fan that pull the air from behind.
We'd like to see this air box, indeed! Nice to hear that your figured out all the problems with cooling. You are using the stock water pump with a modified timing belt, right?
I'm planning on replacing the stock pump with an electical one. Does anybody know a rough figure, of how many litres per minute flow through the stock pump at a certain RPM?
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Hi guys,
I'd like to show you the most important upgrades, which I did to my car recently. I'll start off with a modified list from the very first post in this thread:
A short conclusion of our Lotus Europa S2 Type 54, which is prepared in accordance with Group H reglement for the BELCAR Historic Cup national (non-FIA) class:
Displacement: 1597 ccm
Power: 162 HP / 119 kW
Torque: 186 Nm / 137 lbf ft
Weight: 740 kg / 1631 lbs (mandatory minimum weight incl. 50 kg ballast)
Ride Height: 70 mm / 2,76 in
Tank Capicity: 40 litres
0 - 100 km/h / 0 - 62 mp/h: 4,8 s
Max. Speed: 236 km/h / 147 mp/h
Rims: front: 8x13", rear: 9x13" Minilite / Revolution
Tyres: Pirelli Semislicks; 225/45/R13
Brakes: front: ventilated discs, rear: solid grooved discs; adjustable brake bias
Modifications:
Engine and Fuel System:
- Renault 807 engine with crossflow-head (rebuilt in 2020)
- racing H-shaft connecting rods
- forged aluminium pistons for high compression
- lightened crank shaft and flywheel
- racing cam shaft 310°
- two 45 Weber DCOE twin-carburettors
- stainless steel exhaust manifold
- two fuel pumps
- fuel pressure regulator
- oil catch-tank (1 litre)
Cooling:
- custom-built aluminium radiator sitting right behind the grill
- electrical water pump (80 litres per minute)
- oil cooler installed in front of the radiator
- ducted front boot to force the air flow through oil cooler and radiator
- front bonnet with big hot air outlet
- interior heater removed
Gearbox:
- 5 speed Renault 395 gearbox (rebuilt in 2020)
- sintermetal racing clutch
Suspension:
- completely adjustable (height, compression, rebound) racing shocks and springs
- all rubber bushes replaced by uniball or polyurethane (incl. engine and gearbox mounts)
- front upper whishbones camber adjustable
- aluminium front hub carriers
- rear whishbones completely adjustable
- custom built rear hub carrier for BMW wheel bearings
- M12 wheel studs
Brakes:
- ventilated discs at front (Banks kit)
- solid grooved discs at rear (Opel)
- two circle braking system with steel-flex brake lines and adjustable brake balance between front and rear
- master cylinders: front: 0,625", rear: 0,7"
- air-hoses for front brake cooling
Bodywork and Interior:
- lexan door- and rear-windows
- flared front and rear wheel arches
- completely removeable front bonnet
- completely removeable light weight engine cover
- Type 47 NACA ducts for fresh air into the engine bay
- whole interiour removed except for the dashboard
- passenger seat removed
- aluminium fuel tank (right hand side)
- removed rear boot
Safety:
- Tillett racing driver seat (fibre composite material)
- 6 point safety harness
- roll cage (FIA Appendix K spec; tube Ø38 x 3,2 mm)
- fire extinguisher
- emergency stop switch (can be operated from outside the car)
Sometimes I myself wonder, how few parts of the car are left in stock condition. I think, the only part, which has not been dismantled and refurbished by us, is the leather dashboard, which has been built by a previous owner. But as the car needs ballast to reach the mandatory minimum weight, there is no reason to throw it out. Of course, this doesn't mean that the car's development is already finished. It's far away from that. There is still a lot of room for improvement. But it has to go step by step, on step at a time.
Best regards
Stefan
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Very nice car 8)
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:I-agree: She looks great.
It looks like that big hole in your front trunk would let a lot of hot air into the cabin. Do the rules allow you to put a duct where a headlight goes? If so, you could duct air from the left headlight through that hole (and seal around it) you would get a lot of cool air into the cabin.
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Brilliant mods and great looking car! Looks like you are well in front of the competition in the photo. Keep us posted on race results!
Tom
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:I-agree: She looks great.
It looks like that big hole in your front trunk would let a lot of hot air into the cabin. Do the rules allow you to put a duct where a headlight goes? If so, you could duct air from the left headlight through that hole (and seal around it) you would get a lot of cool air into the cabin.
Or part of both orange indicator lights would be very easy to duct straight to the eyeball vents in the dashboard.
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Very impressive Mecky. Would your rules allow a snorkel like the 47's to pressure feed your carbs? If so try it. It added 500 rpm's to my top speed on track days.
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:I-agree: She looks great.
It looks like that big hole in your front trunk would let a lot of hot air into the cabin. Do the rules allow you to put a duct where a headlight goes? If so, you could duct air from the left headlight through that hole (and seal around it) you would get a lot of cool air into the cabin.
The majority of hot air leaves the trunk through the big duct in the hood. Until now, hot air inside the cabin was never an issue. The windows bring enough fresh air in. But to add fresh air ducting to the cabin, I could use the indicators. The head lights must be working in case of rain.
@surfguitar58: The picture was taken during a safety car period. Thus, many cars seen behind me, were actually in front.
@SwiftDB4: From my interpretation of the rule book, it would be allowed. But as this will require a tight air box, I have not worked on this yet. The space next to the right hand fuel tank is very limited and to design a good working air box can be quite challenging. For now, the engine must work with the fresh air supply from the NACA ducts. I want to try and find another fuel tank before I think about an air box.
The next race is on September 25th on the Belgian F1 track at Spa-Francorchamps. It may be my last race for this year. There are two more events planned, but I'll need a break soon, as I'm working on the car after work and on weekends continuously since March. That makes it quite difficult to recover from the stress at work. Maybe I'll think about taking part at the penultimate race at Zolder on October 10th, but only if everything works brilliantly fine at Spa. I will definitely not participate at the last race at the Nürburgring GP track, because there is always (but especially in October) the worst possible weather and I don't really like this track.
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Is your Spa race at the Six Hour ?
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Is your Spa race at the Six Hour ?
No, it's the Trophée des Ardennes. A quite small event, which only goes from Friday until Saturday and hosts a 4h motor bike race.
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So jealous. Getting to play on the same tracks as the Big Boys.
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:I-agree: Yeah, I'm quite lucky to live in the middle of 5 actual or former Grand Prix tracks, of which I can reach any in a drive of not more than 4 hours. :pirate:
Until now, I have driven myself at the Nürburgring, Hockenheim, Spa-Francorchamps and Zolder. Only Zandvoort is missing on my list. But I think, it will be added sooner or later.
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I am with Sandyman, I can't help but be a bit jealous of your experience on the big tracks. We have very small number of tracks on the West Coast of Canada and 2 of them are private with an expensive membership required for most of the events or open track days.
R
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After the last race in September 2021 went very bad (wheel bearing damage in the beginning of race 1), I went for some small modifications after repairing the wheel bearings.
I replaced the close-to-stock flywheel by a pure racing flywheel and put a new clutch plate in, as well.
I also added another cross member to the rear end of the chassis, which should act sort of like a anti-roll bar. My car has no anti-roll bars at the moment, but I hope, this mod will reduce chassis flex while cornering.
But the most significant improvement of my car (and equipment) is the third set of Minilite wheels with super soft semi-slicks. I used to have only a hard compound for dry track and a set of rain tyres, but nothing inbetween. Now, the third set should be good for cold dry and slightly wet conditions. This is especially important, as my races are to short for tyre changes to make sense.
Now, I'm looking forward to my next test drive on track, which is planned for April 21st. The first race of 2022 is at May 15th. :pirate: