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Garage / Re: Brake Master Question
« Last post by Bryan Boyle on Today at 04:57:21 PM »
Hi Bryan,

I had the Spitfire 0.7 dual circuit m/cyl on my car for a while at one point and there are a several guides on how to do it on the forum.

I know...just refreshing the discussion since it's getting towards spring up here in the northern climes, and pretty sure, besides myself, folks are looking at recommissioning their rides for the season (though, to be honest, I've had mine out more than once considering the lack of winter weather here in MA last winter...)

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When I did mine I removed the wedge shape reservoir and replaced it with a remote one from a Land Rover. Apart from having a greater capacity and being easier to see, it also came with a low fluid warning switch.  Anyway, the 0.7" cylinder is ok with non-servoed standard brakes so you know that one will work.  I no longer have that on my car but I do have one on the Elan, again without servo assistance but with the larger piston P16 calipers and it's fine.

I like the idea of remote reservoirs; only question is the fittings on the MC end to accept the hose from the reservoir in place of the attached piece.  Don't necessarily want to get into fabrication of hose fittings and such...any guidance there, sir?  That it has a low level indicator is a plus...take the place of the removed PDWV.  Always thinking, right?

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If you are currently using the OEM Lotus m/cylinder, am I correct in thinking the later Specials had a larger bore to handle a larger rear brake cylinder ? If so, you might not like the additional travel with a 0.7" bore or at least it will take some getting used to. But the big plus is that it's a well trodden path, bolts straight into the chassis and so there's no real surprises in store.
Brian

The question of travel is one to consider.  In looking again at the S2 MC, it's well rusted...and thinking it may be past freeing up the piston and returning it to service.  Additionally, the top attach fitting is a captured nut...so wondering if that will be a problem...but probably not, because IIRC, both of the studs are the same size/pitch. 
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These came to me on my S2.
Backspace is 3-5/8 as near as I could measure it.
Of course one wheel has a little bit of curb rash but it will clean up easily.
They have been stored inside so the polished surfaces remain bright.

Sumitomo HTR200 185/60R13 tires look like they have never been driven on but are 2005 date code.
They hold air so are good for roll-around and setting up for this size.
If you do not want them I will have them removed as I can use them for roll-around and fitting.

Sorry, I need to keep the lug nuts for my other wheels.
My car was lowered quite a bit and these may have been rubbing the outside of the arches.
I doubt it is an issue with a car at closer to stock height and certainly not for a car with flares.
By my math these will sit 1.125" further out than a set of Cosmic's with 4-3/16 backspace.
This certainly cures excessive air gap in the arches.
$400, shipping from 89447, or stop by and pick them up.
Hot August Nights is coming up.
More pics when I wash them, they are dusty right now.
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Sold for $28,000...
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Garage / Re: Brake Master Question
« Last post by BDA on Today at 01:38:35 PM »
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...am I correct in thinking the later Specials had a larger bore to handle a larger rear brake cylinder ?

According to the parts manual, all the TCs and TCSs used the same master cylinders.
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Garage / Re: Brake Master Question
« Last post by EuropaTC on Today at 01:33:42 PM »
Hi Bryan,

I had the Spitfire 0.7 dual circuit m/cyl on my car for a while at one point and there are a several guides on how to do it on the forum.

When I did mine I removed the wedge shape reservoir and replaced it with a remote one from a Land Rover. Apart from having a greater capacity and being easier to see, it also came with a low fluid warning switch.  Anyway, the 0.7" cylinder is ok with non-servoed standard brakes so you know that one will work.  I no longer have that on my car but I do have one on the Elan, again without servo assistance but with the larger piston P16 calipers and it's fine.

If you are currently using the OEM Lotus m/cylinder, am I correct in thinking the later Specials had a larger bore to handle a larger rear brake cylinder ? If so, you might not like the additional travel with a 0.7" bore or at least it will take some getting used to. But the big plus is that it's a well trodden path, bolts straight into the chassis and so there's no real surprises in store.

Brian

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Garage / Re: Brake Master Question
« Last post by Grumblebuns on Today at 01:28:21 PM »
Bryan, if I understand what you are asking you are determining what master cylinder to substitute after removing your original MC and removing the boosters with the requirement of having decent reservoir volume. The S2 MC would be the first choice since this would be a simple bolt on effort provided the reservoir is in decent shape. The only problem I see in using the original fittings and flare end is possible leakage when fitted to the replacement S2 MC. Cranking down on the fitting may or may not stop the leak.

The Spitfire MC is a good option since it is a semi bolt on. The ports being on the opposite side requires jumpers and the ports are probably metric. The downside is the severely sloped reservoir. I have not looked at the requirements but installing a remote reservoir may allow you to meet your volume requirements.

The only alternate MC that I've had any experience with is the Datsun/Nissan F10 that the PO installed on my long sold JPS. The braking on that car was outstanding with great feel and stopping power. What ever brake pads were installed on that car made all the difference.

I'm in the middle of installing the Courier MC on my TCS. The project has been stalled for a while due to other more urgent projects. With the ports being metric I had to cut odd the original fittings and splice in new jumpers with metric fittings. One problem I ran into was the super tight clearance between the MC ports and the bodywork of the bottom of the nose section. There is about one inch of space to make the tight 90 degree bend without kinking the line.

 
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Garage / Re: 1970 s2 0453R Reassembly
« Last post by dakazman on Today at 01:27:33 PM »
  I found it. 
     Being interrupted strikes again. When selecting a location for the oil pressure gauge line adapter I removed the most forward oil gallery plug as it was the closest to the firewall, but the adapter. I put the plug back in but with a large 17mm wrench . I must have hit the block stopping the wrench and didn’t look at the copper washer still loose. 🥱
  Now to adjust the clutch cable, hopefully I didn’t pull the swedged ball off under the gas pedal.
Dakazman
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 3940R
« Last post by BDA on Today at 01:17:43 PM »
I found something similar on ebay here in the UK. Does anyone know the exact width of the standard original trim ?

So you're interested in not taking your windshield off! Now I can understand!

The original windscreen surround was 1 1/8" across. The trim strip that you found on ebay looks like the same thing that I used which is 1" across. If you need corners, it looks like r.d. sells corners that might fit that narrower trim as their trim is 1" wide and they have matching corners. I'd call to make sure they are still available (they are still listed on their website) and if they think they would fit. Check their website for descriptions. Otherwise, the stock corners don't look bad if you have them or can get them.
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 3940R
« Last post by BDA on Today at 01:00:12 PM »
Oh, a lot of masking tape keeps the urethane more or less where you want it :) (Also, probably helps to have installed a few hundred to get the urethane bead the right size, experience I don't have...)
It just occurred to me to ask you to post some pictures of the steps and details of your windshield installation. I think a lot of others would be interested!
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Garage / Re: Brake Master Question
« Last post by berni29 on Today at 12:46:43 PM »
Hi Bryan

I cannot help you with your specific question (and are also interested in the answer), but may I ask why you removed the dual boosters? Was it just the additional complexity and weight that made the standard system unattractive? Its something that I will also be dealing with at some point. I would like to keep my car original, but when it comes to things like this I prefer the most elegant solution and just keep the original parts on a shelf somewhere.

Do people loose points for removing the boosters?

All the best

Berni
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