Author Topic: rear axle nut  (Read 5761 times)

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Offline andy harwood

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Re: rear axle nut
« Reply #15 on: Saturday,February 23, 2013, 03:46:52 PM »
Could your axles be the 'upgrade' axles that are on ebay? I think they use a larger 7/8" diameter nut, no D washer. They're $1400. plus your old axle stubs on ebay, so gotta be good.
I've wondered if they were worth the price.
When I had a GT6+, I seem to remember that putting  a grease fitting in the axle carrier was a 'upgrade'. Don't know if it helped or not.
andyh

Offline YellowS4DHC

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Re: rear axle nut
« Reply #16 on: Thursday,February 28, 2013, 09:15:37 PM »
I don't know what's on Ebay, but I believe my outboard drive axles are 7/8 in dia so they may be the same thing.  I do wonder where mine came from.

A small update of this minor saga FWIW:  After disassembling and re-assemblng both L & R sides, I'm fairly sure both the axles and the Special brakes were a PO mod, competently done on the L side, less so on the R side.  Much of the problems there result from an incorrectly drilled cotter pin hole in the R drive axle (i.e., too far inboard).  A thicker spacer would have fixed a lot of problems with drum and back plate interference, only that isn't an option as a thicker space would cause the castellated nut to "cover" the cotter pin hole.  And grinding the backside of the castellated nut doesn't seem like a good idea to me and, apparently, not to my PO. 

So, my PO used an "undersized" spacer on the R side so that the castellated nut would fit but then had to have both the brake backing plate and the drum relieved at their outer edges to allow the brake drum to fit closer to the back plate than normal without interference. 

Funny thing is, the spacers on the L and R are the exact SAME thickness. Ignoring for the moment the cotter pin hole position, one would think the spacers would be essentially the same thickness as all the parts (hubs, drums, back plates) appear to be the same, L to R. I'm unclear why the R side spacer should have been about 1/8 inch thicker with the cotter pin hole further outboard.

Bottom line out of all this is, if you have the std 1.25 " brakes, I would keep them as the Special brake parts (drums, back plates) appear hard to find.  I'm still looking for a new or near new brake drum to replace my RR drum as it is at the max dia limit and can't be machined.  If anyone knows where these can be had, please let me know.

What should have been a simple brake job has turned into a real pain and has really pushed me to consider adapting disc brakes at the rear.  :(
regards
Rick

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: rear axle nut
« Reply #17 on: Thursday,February 28, 2013, 10:21:13 PM »
Banks Europa (UK) have them listed at £118 each.   :o    That would be enough to make me convert to a disk set-up !

I have heard of people using the TR7 rear drum brakes as a conversion, IIRC these are larger than the TCS ones.

I would also try Rimmer Brothers in the UK, they are very well known for Triumph parts and I'm sure the drums were from the GT6, 1972-74. Also the Triumph Dolomite 1500, 1975 onwards, although of course those cars aren't so well supported. Some Ford Cortinas used the same size shoes but the PCD would be difference and hence need re-drilling to match the Lotus/Triumph PCD.

An interesting tale there, especially around the cotter pin hole. I'd have expected to drill one after everything had been tightened up and use the castellations as a guide. Is there enough room to drill another hole, preferably at 90deg to the first, only a touch further out ?

Brian

Offline andy harwood

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Re: rear axle nut
« Reply #18 on: Friday,March 01, 2013, 05:23:50 AM »
Check NJ craigslist, ad date in Jan. TCS being parted out. Maybe he still has the drums. I like the disc idea!
Andyh