Author Topic: Changing Drive Shaft UJs  (Read 919 times)

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Offline 4129R

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Changing Drive Shaft UJs
« on: Saturday,May 16, 2015, 02:18:03 PM »
When changing all 4 UJs, I found that the easiest way is to take out two outer joints, take out the inner roll pins holding the drive shafts to the gearbox diff output shafts, take the driveshafts off the car, pull them apart on a workbench, assemble the shafts by pressing them together in a vice on a workbench, then putting the drive shafts back and only having to fit two needle roller races in situ on the car.

If the circlips won't go back in place in the yokes, it probably means some of the needle rollers have fallen down when you were bashing the cups back into the yokes.

Don't forget to get the grease gun on to the long grease nipples when the whole shaft is back in place. The nipples can only be removed and fitted if the driveshaft is horizontal, otherwise you cannot get the spanner (wrench) on to the nipple, and the hex  faces on the nipple will foul the yokes as you turn them.

Offline BDA

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Re: Changing Drive Shaft UJs
« Reply #1 on: Saturday,May 16, 2015, 03:52:32 PM »
Some times a little extra grease on the needles keeps them in place while you're monkeying around with them.

Be careful not to bend the needles!!!

Offline EuropaTC

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Re: Changing Drive Shaft UJs
« Reply #2 on: Saturday,May 16, 2015, 09:03:13 PM »
I must admit that whenever I've done that job I tend to just pull out the complete shaft from the carrier. I hate fiddling about trying to replace parts on the car and if it's possible to pull it apart and work on a bench, then that's what I'll do even if it takes longer.

Given the cost of bearings and UJs I've always replaced bearings at the same time as UJs, just pull the shaft and do the lot. Job done for another year..... ;)

Brian