"soft" Restoration of 2933R (JPS#059)

[Bainford]

You are doing some good and thorough work here. Your Lotus will love you for it.

I would definitely replace the hose clamps with something reliable. You are by now well aware of how many of them there are on a Europa cooling system, and some of them are difficult to access. In my personal opinion, if you plan to use your car for regular or occasional road use, reliable clamps are a must. I would think that on a driven car, this concession from originality would be deemed acceptable by the wider Lotus community.

[tedtaylor]

spent the day installing all the new hoses.   It took several hours!  Access being the biggest challenge, but also trying to be methodical and fit everything properly and tighten clamps to avoid any future leaks!   The clamp set the Previous Owner had bought had a few the wrong size, so i had to scurry around finding the right size clamps to use.

So the moment came, the hoses installed, so time to fill with water.  I wanted to use a "clean flush" product and thought i had one laying around.....wrong!   So for now just to test the system for leaks, I filled with water.   Started engine and let it warm up, then....   Further gremlins found!!!

1) the heater core and hoses to/from never got warm so something is blocked.   I know i thoroughly flushed every tube and the core itself, so something else is wrong here.   The previous owner also bought a new heater valve, so i suspect the original, altough moving externally, I cannot determine whether it is moving "internally".    So I'm thinking that heater valve is either clogged or broken or stuck closed internally.   I'll replace that another day.

2) The temp gauge was working and it never got real hot to turn the cooling electric fan on, so i was not able to test the fan, whether it works or not.   I'll have to figure out how that works.  The two wires going to the temperature sensor on the radiator have juice/electric, but i need to further research how that makes the fan work or not.

3) another gremlin - while the car was running, i noticed both left and right turn signal indicators were lit on the dash, as well as the high beam indicator light on the dash.  when i operated the signal stalk and dip flash, i can hear clicking of a relay.  Either i knocked a wire off, lost a ground, or something more.   While changing the heater core tube on passenger side, it was very close to the fuse panel and wiring, so I may have knocked something out of whack!

4) the final gremlin - while engine warmed up to temperature, i noticed oil leaks.  One is at the rubber oil drain tube (from head to block) under the carbs above the fuel pump.   Looks like i might have to change that out.   it was a real dog doing that on my Elan, but actually it looks like i have better access on the Europa with the engine in backwards.

Another day, another project...

[jbcollier]

1) Those heater valves are notorious for leaking, sticking and being difficult to adjust.  If you have a new one, just fit it.  The heater circuit needs to be bled.  Disconnect the two hoses at the engine and pour water/coolant in until it flows out the other.  There is an air bleed on the rad as well.  You also need to bring the engine up to temperature and get the thermostat open to clear all the air.

2) The rad fan switch is the ground side of the fan circuit.  Join the two together and it should work.  If not, troubleshoot and repair before runnnig the engine again.

3) Sounds like a bad ground under the dash.  This is also the ground for the everything up front including the rad fan.

[BDA]

Don't you just love teething problems!

The heater valve should be easy enough to test when you get it off the engine. There are better alternatives, too - modern inline valves - you might want to consider.

Presumably you have preserved the original wiring scheme even if you have replace some of the items (such as replaced the otter switch because you have an aluminum radiator). The temp switch completes the ground for the fan when the water reaches the appropriate temperature. That could have been tested before you installed it, but that's water under the bridge. When you test it in the car, it might not turn the fan on immediately upon reaching the temperature (at least that's what the switch I got for my aluminum radiator did to me).

Good luck with your oil drain! I have only heard it can be done with the head on, but I've never had to do it and since you've done it on your Elan, you are the expert on that!

Congratulations on your progress!    It feels good to fix things and make the car better!

[tedtaylor]

BDA - here is the write up I posted on Elan.net concerning replacing the tube in situ:

I developed an oil leak (pretty bad) at the rubber plastic drain tube between the head and crankcase there under the carbs and above the fuel pump. I thought perhaps the plastic tube hardened over the years and cracked, but much to my dismay the leakage was coming from the uppermost connection to the head. I removed the tube and found it intact, no split, holes, or hardening for that matter.
With great care, i was able to replace with a new one, and get this.... without removing the head. I read elsewhere that it can be done and yes, i was able to do it, rather easily i thought.
I accessed it by removing carbs, intake plenum, fuel pump and distributor cap/wires and misc stuff about. I trimmed the bottom connection a 1/4 inch. I used vice grips (narrow pointy nose kind) to squeeze tube in the center for a "flex point" to better bend it into place. I used a generous amount of RTV sealant, inserted bottom end in first and flexed the tube via vice grips while pushing top under the head overhang, and presto! It went into place. A couple twist turns to make sure it was seated both top and bottom and additional RTV sealant around the outside edges and I'm finished.

So it looks like i'll be repeating this feat on the Europa, but may not need to remove carbs/manifold since I have better access on this TwinCam as opposed to the one in the Elan Sprint.

[BDA]

You're the man, Ted!

[Certified Lotus]

Your paying attention to all the right details Ted. With the level of work your doing it's time for a lift in your garage!

[tedtaylor]

Well I solved one of the problems.  I now have heat!   I think in the end it was an "air block".  I pulled the heater valve off and flushed it and the thermostat housing opening.  I flushed the line going to the heater core.  I found the heater valve working perfectly fine and re-assembled everything.  I started the car and it quickly came up to temperature and found the heater core lines getting hot as well.   I now have the heater core working.   Success!!!

[BDA]

Just in time for Summer!


Seriously, good job!

[tedtaylor]

I drained off a quart of water and filled with a radiator/cooling system flush solution and ran the car for about a half hour to clean and wash the cooling system.   I'm actually going to leave it in there until near the end of the soft restoration process to thoroughly clean.   Sitting idling in the garage (well ventilated of course) the temp gauge crept up above 90, fan came on, temp dropped below 90.   This cycle continued the whole time, so i'm very pleased it runs cool while idling (without driving - stuck in traffic simulation) and that the cooling fan is doing its job well.   I remember my JPS #185 never had an overheating problem either.

Good news, since i grounded the ground wire, the radiator fan works fine, cycling on and off as needed.  The turn signals and high beam indicator issue also disappeared, so the ground was that issue.

So beside the big complete brake job coming up, the oil leaks must be addressed.   I'll need to replace the rubber oil drain tube (head to block) and the cam cover gasket and cam bungs sealed.  I also had oil coming out the oil cap itself, so that is not sealing properly.  I think that will address most of the oil leaks.   A degreasing of the engine is in order as well.

FUN, FUN!!!

[jbcollier]

Most rad flushing compounds are at least mildly acidic.  It is not a good idea to soak alloy engine parts for a long time in an acidic solution.  Use as directed and flush thoroughly afterwards with clean water.

[tedtaylor]

You make a good point.  I was only referring to their instructions where you can do the traditional quick 10-minute flush or they say you can leave it in for a couple days with various driving conditions for a more thorough cleaning.   So i guess i won't leave it in that long after all.   Thanks for the recommendation!:)

[brucelotus26r]

I took my Europa out for a drive on Saturday and afterward looking at the radiator I noticed the fan switch was not all the way in and I could easily push it in or out. The switch and grommet are new and I don't see any thing to hold it in place ??
anybody have any ideas.

[jbcollier]

I usually secure them with a long plastic zip-tie.

[Stuleslie]

Here is a picture of the Otter (fan) switch which is held in by a 'L' shaped bracket which is itself held by the hose clip. It must be manufactured as the one end under the hose clip is the same contour as the hose. Saying that a zip tye will probably suffice. I'm surprised it has not popped out under pressure before now.
Cheers
Stu