Ongoing builds

[TCS4605R]

Add another name to your list.  I've been retired for 10 years now and am still working on 4605R.  I actually started the restoration 25 years ago after buying the car in 1978 - life and other projects always seem to be in the way - I find retirement busier than the 'working life'.  I'm way beyond what the attached photo shows.  I have the drivers door to fit and finish then on to priming, sanding and final painting.

Tom
TCS4605R

[cwtech]

4259R will become a body off rebuild, as one of the seat belt mountings has sheared off in the centre of the chassis, and one long front suspension bolt (the one that slides into the footwell) is rusted solid in situ.

I am worried that heat necessary to try to get the suspension bolt out will actually set fire to the fibreglass.

Alex in Norfolk.

If you have an arc (stick) welder, you can use it to create flameless heat by connecting it to both ends of the bolt.  ...Good, secure connections will prevent arcing and sparks.

[BDA]

Add another name to your list.  I've been retired for 10 years now and am still working on 4605R.  I actually started the restoration 25 years ago after buying the car in 1978 - life and other projects always seem to be in the way - I find retirement busier than the 'working life'.  I'm way beyond what the attached photo shows.  I have the drivers door to fit and finish then on to priming, sanding and final painting.

Tom
TCS4605R

Consider yourself added! Keep us up to date on your progress!

I know another guy who's not on this forum who's doing a body off rebuild so there are more than a dozen that are ongoing and a few that have been finished in the last year or two. Pretty cool! 

[4129R]

4259R will become a body off rebuild, as one of the seat belt mountings has sheared off in the centre of the chassis, and one long front suspension bolt (the one that slides into the footwell) is rusted solid in situ.

I am worried that heat necessary to try to get the suspension bolt out will actually set fire to the fibreglass.

Alex in Norfolk.

It is not welding.

I need lots of heat to bash out the long suspension bolt on the front arm. The bolt must be 9" long, and it is very stuck.

If you have an arc (stick) welder, you can use it to create flameless heat by connecting it to both ends of the bolt.  ...Good, secure connections will prevent arcing and sparks.

[Runningwild]

BDA. I’m waiting for my engine. I’m having Alpine America turn a 843 crossflow into a alpine spec engine.  He has my rebuilt NG3 and a second engine for parts.  Hopefully this summer he will get it finished. The car will be completely done this summer and ready for the engine/trans. I have a wire harness, dash and alum gas tank to install to keep me busy.   Everything else is done. Waiting but not very patiently.  Want to get it on the road.

[BDA]

It sounds like you'll have a really nice car when you're done!

I'm planning on rebuilding my NG3 so I called Michel at Alpine-America for parts. It was a tough phone call since my French is not nearly as good as his English - which is good but his accent is pretty thick. He may have been a little perturbed because he was closed for the Winter. It took me a while to make sure he knew I was talking about an NG3 rather than a 365 ("It came from a Fuego!").

Do you know when he opens up after his Winter break?

We want to see some pictures of your car!

[Runningwild]

BDA.  Yes Michel has a very thick accent. I’m only 3 + hours away from him.  He closes for the winter so maybe next year he will finish it. He is very busy and works alone. 

[2766R]

I'm guilty as well for not posting the progress on mine in a more timely fashion.  This is not a body off rebuild, rather almost everything else.  So, as far as the goal of rebuilding to achieve a safe, roadworthy and reliable Europa, this has been achieved.  If it weren't for the services at Ragtops & Roadsters, I doubt very much the return to service!  They have even completed road testing and resolved a couple of minor issues.  Now it's up to me to arrange a pick-up: problem now is weather and finding time to make it happen (2 1/2 hour trip one way without traffic!).  The plan for the future will be cosmetic: interior dash, crash pad, etc: exterior respray.  I'm going to try and accomplish some of this myself (definitely not painting).  I'm including some pics it stands now.     

[cwtech]

...one long front suspension bolt (the one that slides into the footwell) is rusted solid in situ.
I am worried that heat necessary to try to get the suspension bolt out will actually set fire to the fibreglass.

Alex in Norfolk.

It is not welding.

I need lots of heat to bash out the long suspension bolt on the front arm. The bolt must be 9" long, and it is very stuck.

If you have an arc (stick) welder, you can use it to create flameless heat by connecting it to both ends of the bolt.  ...Good, secure connections will prevent arcing and sparks.

Alex:  An arc welder can be used as a source of resistance heat.  ....We often thaw frozen metal pipes by connecting one of the welder cables to each end of the pipe.  ...The "short circuit" causes the pipe to heat up and melt the ice within.   ...This same method can be used to heat the bolt, without any flame.  ...Good, secure connections eliminate any sparks.

The amperage capability of the welder will determine how quickly, and how hot, the bolt will heat. 

[BDA]

I'm guilty as well for not posting the progress on mine in a more timely fashion.  This is not a body off rebuild, rather almost everything else.  So, as far as the goal of rebuilding to achieve a safe, roadworthy and reliable Europa, this has been achieved.  If it weren't for the services at Ragtops & Roadsters, I doubt very much the return to service!  They have even completed road testing and resolved a couple of minor issues.  Now it's up to me to arrange a pick-up: problem now is weather and finding time to make it happen (2 1/2 hour trip one way without traffic!).  The plan for the future will be cosmetic: interior dash, crash pad, etc: exterior respray.  I'm going to try and accomplish some of this myself (definitely not painting).  I'm including some pics it stands now.   

It's too bad this is happening in winter as I imagine the snow is also messing with your plans.

If you're going to go with a wood dash, I recommend the guy I got my dash from, prestigeautowood.com. He has a nice selection of veneers, will do custom work if you want, and he finishes the back and all the edges to keep out moisture. I love mine!

Good luck getting your baby home!

[rascott]

thought i'd pop in, just to let you know that my rescue project continues to progress.
certainly not a build, but still fun.
'69 s2-mostly.
i look here regularly for inspiration.
richard

[BDA]

Thanks for popping in! I think we'd all to see pictures of your rescue project!

[Sherman Kaplan]

BDA  Yes, I plan on redoing all of the brake system.  I plan on keeping the boosters.  They are original and have never been touched so they will need a rebuild.   Do you know of a place to send them?   In the past I have used Sierra Specialty Automotive, but they retired a few years ago.

I second using prestige autowood.  Below are some pictures of the dash they did for my car.  I came up with another way to attach the crash pad without removing the windshield  I can expand on how I did it if anyone is interested.  One caveat is that I didn't have to remove the old one, it was gone when I received the car.   Even though the car had low miles I surmise that the windshield leaked and ruined the crashpad (the windshield around the roof was covered in silicone).

Chris if  you remember the persons name that would be great.  I'm in northern Colorado, but it would be good to get some contacts here.

Sherman

[BDA]

Things seem to be progressing nicely. Your dash looks great, but that is no surprise! A white paper on removing the crash pad might be nice in the Technical Articles."

I think White Post Restorations (whitepost.com) should do a good job on your boosters.

[Bainford]

Alex:  An arc welder can be used as a source of resistance heat.  ....We often thaw frozen metal pipes by connecting one of the welder cables to each end of the pipe.  ...The "short circuit" causes the pipe to heat up and melt the ice within.   ...This same method can be used to heat the bolt, without any flame.  ...Good, secure connections eliminate any sparks.

The amperage capability of the welder will determine how quickly, and how hot, the bolt will heat.

Genius! I've never heard this before, yet it seems so obvious.