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Garage / Re: Mystery crossflow engine
« Last post by Steve_Lindford on Today at 12:41:35 AM »
Those queries go back 5 years - so pressumably not you...
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Last post by Steve_Lindford on Today at 12:36:21 AM »
Mine has worn in a similar way. The central tube drops - because of gravity and perhaps the rubber shrinks. I assumed the rubber doesnt need to flex - it just grips the sides and the inner steel shaft rotates around the bolt.

This design SEEMS so much better than the earlier S2 - I feel that if the wear is removed from all parts the system SHOULD work well - or am I being too optimistic??

When I removed my linkage - there was no nylon washer at the gear lever end - and a bit of wear everywhere - Im amazed I managed to get any gears at all!

Steve
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Garage / Re: Grinding drums
« Last post by EuropaTC on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 10:01:32 PM »
Hmm, something sounds wrong there on the axle assembly based on what Grumblebuns has measured.  I don't know the width of the spacer between the hub and outer bearing but  I do have the drums from my TC (the same as yours) on the shelf so I can easily measure them and post up later this morning.

The only other spacer is the one between the bearings but I thought it was the inner bearing that floated, not the outer and if that's right then I can't see how getting the smaller spacer in there would affect the hub position.  Odd one.

Brian

Edit to add: Measured the TC drums which should be the same as yours and confirm your 38mm depth, so the drums are the right ones. If you've got all the right bearings & spacers in there then I'm puzzled on this one. Backing plates ?
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Last post by EuropaTC on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 09:51:28 PM »
On the last photo, is the central steel tube in the rubber bush proud of the steel carrier ?  From what I remember the steel tube is clamped firmly between the ends of the bracket that goes on the engine block and whatever swivel movement you get comes from the rubber flexing. The engine carrier bracket shouldn't rub against the steel of the swivelling part, although looking at the groove on the lower flange it has done in the past.

Going from memory again (often dodgy in my case  ;)  ) the bush looks wrong. The bolt which clamps the swivel part in place was small, about 1/4" or thereabouts, but the bush looks to have a 1/2" central tube. Is it a suspension bush ?

Brian
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Last post by BDA on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 06:14:59 PM »
Great write-up again! Congratulations on your progress!
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Garage / Re: Restoration of 2358R
« Last post by Certified Lotus on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 04:02:43 PM »
It snowed last night and although it is mild out today, a good reason to fire up the propane heater in the garage and get working on the Europa. The objective for today was to get the headers installed, the generator and associated brackets and washer spacers installed, run the speedo cable thru the chassis and hopefully get the balance of the shifter linkage installed.

I had SS exhaust studs to install, but first had to remove the studs already in the head.  All came out easily except for one which the threads stripped immediately when I used my stud remover. Tried everything, the darn thing wouldn't budge. Contacted my friend Drew who said "use a torch to get the stud cherry red (not the aluminum head) and then let it cool. Use vise grips to remove.  Worked like a charm.

Chris came over to help (its always great to have another set of hands and someone to bounce ideas off of) and I set him on installing the headers while I worked on the other more mundane stuff. He put never seize on each of the studs, then installed the gaskets, finally lining up the headers to the studs and gaskets.  Of course, nothing is every as easy as it looks when your installing custom anything.  Two of the header flanges were interfering with the block threaded cap bolts. I could either go to the store and get new bolts or grind a notch in two of the flanges.  We agreed to grind.  Chris did a great job with the SS headers.

Installing the generator, bracket and spacer washers was easy.  Installing the speedo cable at the transaxle and then routing thru the chassis was also no issue (although a bit time consuming).

The shifter tubes.......well, that is another story. Every since I bought the car I have been reading about the sloppiness of the shifter (finding gears can be a challenge) and no one (that I know of) has created a solution for the 352 four speed transaxle that make shifting more precise. Now, the original shift tubes and associated hardware that was on the car was very worn (u-joints sloppy and a few cracks in the metal holding the u-joints).  Then there was the issue of many holes drilled thru the collar of the ends of the shift tubes for worn pins.  I had another set of shift tubes from the other Europa I bought for the Weber TC engine and a third set I bought on ebay. All of them had some issue or another and none of the them were perfect.  I had thought combining the various parts and pieces would be the best solution, but after installing and looking closely Chris and I agreed that finding new OEM shift tubes would be best.  Then I could use locking nuts and drill my own holes.  By the way, I had bought the new u-joint design for between the two tubes from RD Enterprises.  Has anyone installed this in their car?

Media blasted some of the shifter parts for painting while I am on the hunt for front and rear tubes.
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Garage / Re: Grinding drums
« Last post by Gmg31 on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 12:24:46 PM »
A saw that thread a while back ( I think there were a couple) and stripped mine down again prior to completion to make sure I hadn’t made that mistake.

I’ve just placed a ruler across, as above, and it’s barely 3 mm and certainly not 7.9 mm

I’ve just double checked mine and the shoes are 1.25”.  I wonder if the PO had changed the drums? They're the only part that’s not new.  I’ve just measured the drums and they appear to be approx 38mm deep.
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Garage / Re: Grinding drums
« Last post by pboedker on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 12:01:18 PM »
Have you seen this topic from about a year ago? http://www.lotuseuropa.org/LotusForum/index.php?topic=1965.0

It turned out the outer spacer was missing, causing the hub to be located too close to the rear plate. There are some nice photos and a list of dimensions of various parts to check out, just in case you measure your brake shoes to the correct dimension and need to search for another explanation.
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Garage / Re: Grinding drums
« Last post by Grumblebuns on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 11:41:33 AM »
I measured the distance from the edge of the shoes to the hub, there is about 0.29" (7.4mm) clearance. I'm assuming that the drums abuts the hub.  Like others have said, check the width of your shoes, should be 1.25".
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FS/WTB: Europa Parts / Re: Lotus Europa Wilwood Rear Disc Brake Upgrade Kit
« Last post by EuropaTC on Sunday,February 18, 2018, 09:11:56 AM »
Michael, when you mentioned you'd been looking at commercial calipers, did you consider the Brembo caliper that they use on the Elise S1, dodge viper and an early Renault ?  It has a 34mm piston as standard but I've heard of people overboring and using up to 40mm which might compensate slightly for using a smaller disc ?

https://wiki.seloc.org/a/Brembo_Caliper

Brian
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