Author Topic: replacing the master cylinder  (Read 819 times)

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Offline Europa73

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replacing the master cylinder
« on: Sunday,August 20, 2017, 08:24:51 PM »
hi all,

It looks like I need to change the master cylinder on my TCS.

looking at it - it looks will hidden in the car.

Is this an easy job to undertake - access looks extremely tight.

Any advise on how to approach this job?
also restoring 69 Elan +2 and driving a 1975 TR6

Online BDA

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Re: replacing the master cylinder
« Reply #1 on: Sunday,August 20, 2017, 08:40:04 PM »
It ain't easy, but you should be able to do it without taking the rack off. I don't remember any tricks other than the obvious - disconnect the push rod from the brake pedal, disconnect the brake lines, unbolt the M/C from the frame and swap it out. IIRC, the stock M/C had a captive nut on one ear. I think it's mounted on studs that are screwed into the frame. This might be another time you need to bend or grind up a wrench to do it a little easier. If you haven't already gotten a replacement, you might consider getting it rebuilt. I've had spotty luck rebuilding master cylinders. I had mine rebuilt at White Post Restorations (http://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/). Turn around is pretty quick.


Good luck!

Offline pboedker

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Re: replacing the master cylinder
« Reply #2 on: Sunday,August 20, 2017, 11:22:41 PM »
I had my master cylinder rebuilt this summer, and it was easier than expected to remove/replace.

To add to BDA's list, I started with removing the closing plate. It's only 7 small screws, and really helps with the M/C access. I heard that one should not lean on the nose of the car without the closing plate, so just don't do that. The M/C can now be accessed either from below or from the left wheel well.

The lower nut is easy to remove. The upper is locked to the M/C ear and not easily accessible with a spanner, but I found a cheap bicycle spanner that could be grinded a bit and also had to be bent at a weird double angle to fit between the rack nuts and M/C. You'll see what I mean, when you get there...

The push rod clevis must be unscrewed from the push rod and the rod then pulls out easily when the M/C is removed.
Peter Boedker
3904R Special
Denmark

Offline HelpMyLotus

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Re: replacing the master cylinder
« Reply #3 on: Monday,August 21, 2017, 03:48:58 AM »
I found it easy to remove but that my be because mine was swapped out at some point with a suitable replacement.  That replacement was shot so I went with the Land Rover master.  My servos were gone, like removed, so I feel the new master does a good job of braking without them.  Having the master in and out several times then replacing it, I would say it's quite easy to get to.  The joy of trouble free braking is worth the minor struggle to get to the bolts.  I thought it was harder to access the inside brake pedal in that tiny footwell!


Offline Gmg31

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Re: replacing the master cylinder
« Reply #4 on: Monday,August 21, 2017, 04:00:07 AM »
I am told that I should have bench bled mine when I fitted it, I have since been unable to get a proper pedal and now need to try and bleed it in situ.  Might I suggest you read some of the other links on the forum