Lotus Europa Forums > Technical Articles and DIY tools and tips
RICHARD MANN'S CROSS FLOW RENAULT ENGINES
Lotus 47:
RENAULT SUMPS AND PUMPS
Today's lesson is about sumps. Pretty boring topic.
There is only one sump I use, and that is the standard R16 sump.
It is fitted to most Type 697, 801, 821, 843 engines and is what a Europa has. I like this sump, because it is deep, and there is a long oil pump pick-up to dive deep into this sump.
The standard oil pump is bullet proof in my opinion, and I've never sought to fit a bigger pump. All the engines I've ever built re-used the oil pump. l've not found one that was under spec. If in doubt - read the workshop manual.
The R15 and R17 engines I've pulled down used a shallow sump with a short oil pick up. Not my preference.
I have seen one high volume oil pump, and I think it was fitted to an 843 engine I pulled out of a Renault 16TS. The engine was not original for the R16TS but it was an unexpected bonus. Theses oil pumps simply have a longer rotor
and longer mating outer part (I'm not actually sure of the correct terminology).
These longer components are fitted into the standard block without any modification. It is the oil pump housing that has a recess to accommodate the longer parts.
I have downloaded a couple of pictures from Mecaparts. You can easily see the difference in the rotor length. They got their photos mixed up - those crazy French eh!
Be warned - you can buy a 5mm longer pump set, but there is no modified housing for sale to accommodate it!
So stick with your standard Europa sump and oil pump and pickup. The sump is stamped steel and light weight.
One further option is a fancy pants cast alloy sump with fins, as supplied on the A110 1600S. It has a beautiful Alpine flying "A"cast into the face so you can see it if you are driving behind an A110 in a Europa!
This sump is big, heavy and super expensive (for an Aussie). Do you yourself a favour and give it a miss.
Keep it simple and cost effective.
One final but of advice. I always fill my sumps with 5 litres of oil and calibrate the dip stick to suit.
old racer:
Richard,
Thanks for your comments and contact number. I race a Formula Ford in Historics and thought the Europa might make a nice car for Regularity if it had a little more horse power. But as you say, maybe not the right thing to do to a matching numbers car.
I'll continue to follow your lessons for the day I'm too old and slow in FF, which is fast approaching!
John
jbcollier:
The alloy sumps can be porous. I had to boil mine (to get the impregnated oil out and then powder coat it to seal it.
Lotus 47:
RENAULT RODS
Today's lesson is about Renault connecting rods. Often called conrods or just rods.
In my limited experience I've never seen an alloy block R16 type engine "throw" a rod. Fundamentally they are very sound. You have nothing to worry about.
The big end size never changed
The rod length never changed (136.2mm according to the Lotus book) and I think Renault quote a slightly different figure like 136.5mm or even 137mm. It doesn't really matter does it?
So far I know of 4 variants
Europa and R16 - your bog standard rod with a 20mm fit gudgeon pin or wrist pin. The pin is a PRESS fit in the rod. Lots of manufacturers do this. It deletes two circlips and two grooves so it saves money in high volume production. It also means your rod doesn't need to have the top bearing replaced because there is no wearing surface in the little end. Simple. These rods use two bolts and two nuts to secure the big end bearing cap.
The R15TS and R17TL engines I've seen (807-10) have rods that looks almost identical, but the gudgeon pin is 21mm press fit. These rods use two bolts and two nuts to secure the big end bearing cap, same as above.
The R18 and R16TX (1647cc) engines I've seen have a beefier tapered rod with 21mm press fit gudgeon pin.These rods use two bolts and two nuts to secure the big end bearing cap, same as above.
Finally the R17TS also known as the 17 Gordini engine, plus R12 Gordinin plus A110 1600S use rods that are called "Gordini" rods. These use a floating 21mm gudgeon pin running in a bronze bush. The big end bearing cap is retained by two bolts - no nuts are fitted.
If you are rebuilding an engine with the view of making it more powerful, then your choice of piston may force you to use a different rod. i.e. one with a 21mm little end because the pistons you buy will most likely have a 21mm gudgeon. If you get custom pistons, then make sure you get gudgeon pin sized to suit your rods.
You can buy aftermarket rods. I just checked ebay and there is set advertised for an R12 Gordini for AUS$339 with 21mm little end, which sounds OK to me. Made in China. No experience with these, so no further comment
My general advice - re-use whatever is in your engine. It's the cheapest solution.
The photo titles explain the rods
jbcollier:
Over in good old NA, the first R17G came with the 807-13 engine. Early versions came with a forged crank and the rods you mention: 21 mm floating pin and bolted rod cap (no nuts) but later versions came with a cast crank and 20 mm press fit pins but still with bolted rod caps.
The Chinese produced H-beam rods were criticized on the aussiefrogs site. One failed rather spectacularly IIRC. I bought Euro produced ones and so far so good (knock on wood).
PS: Am enjoying this thread!
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